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Chaos

Detachment Costume Advisor[CMD-DCA]
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Chaos last won the day on March 4

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About Chaos

501st Info

  • Name
    Chris
  • 501st ID
    96706
  • 501st Garrison
    Carolina Garrison

SpecOps Info

  • Costumes
    Imperial Death Trooper
  • TotM Datestamp
    Mar 2020, Jun 2023

Support Info

  • Supporter Datestamp
    2018, 2023

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  • Location
    : Raleigh, North Carolina

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  1. Jim's kit has sharper details, 850 has upgraded a lot of their parts to increase details. Both kits meet CRL basic requirements, Jim's is easier to modify for Level 2 requirements. Hope that makes sense.
  2. Good day and welcome back to the forums. We have a vendor list pinned under the Death trooper sub-forum. Currently there are two suppliers of pre-made parts. 850 Armorworks (ABS) and Jim Tripon (hybrid polymer/fiberglass) You can contact them with your measurements and see if their kits will accommodate your body size. Others have gone the 3D print route and used Armor Garage to resize the files to fit them. Beware of using files that may be "cheaper" than others as these files have been found to be inaccurate and require a ton of work to get them to CRL standards. You can always post a file source and ask for recommendations/reviews from anyone who has used them. Best of luck with your build and we are always here for assistance.
  3. @PiotrRasputin Dan, good thing you used E6000 for the side vent screens, that gauge is too big, the screening is much smaller. here is a reference photo I and a few others have used this type of metal screen mesh patch before: https://www.amazon.com/Window-Screen-Repair-Aluminum-3-Inch/dp/B000BQUTC2
  4. Let me step in here, for everyone's situational awareness. The CRL does not specify in writing which piece needs to overlay. After looking at the ST upper armor construction, it is possible that there was a side piece that attaches between the front and back in which case the side piece is under the front and rear corners. However when we constructed the CRL, we had to use the photos we obtained from the SWC Exhibit shortly after the release of the movie. When we updated the CRL to it's current form, we intentionally left out any references to how the armor is arranged. This accommodated various builder's designs such as Tom's which uses the side insert and Jim's who has the front longer to reach back to the back piece. Either way per the CRL is correct. On my Jim's kit the back piece sits flush up against my side buckle straps. Here are some photos of screen used suits for reference:
  5. Almost all of us with Jim's kit have the back overlap the front.
  6. Doc is spot on with his answers to your questions so I won't echo what he said. When you extend the back, do it so the overall ankle circumference increases as well.
  7. This is an easy fix! Lots of people who have muscular calf muscles have had this issue. No need to panic. There are two things that must look correct when the shins are worn. The front center line must be centerline with your leg and the back raised vertical strip needs to be centerline with your leg. The length of your shins looks good you just need to move the whole thing down over the boot. Your first decision will be are you willing to remove the padding from the tongue of the boot and/or the padding that is in the top of the ankle pads. I originally sized my shins based on the Talib boot which has no padding at all, so when I switched to the Jared they did not close. I cut openings on the inside surfaces of the tongue and ankle pads and removed the padding. They will still meet L2 requirements as the structure and form still remain "Jared." The only thing removing or not removing will effect is how much of an extension strip you will need to make so that the top and bottom of the shins close. No need to mess with your front because its a solid piece, you are at an advantage because you chose to clamshell close your shins at the back. Here's how you fix it: You remove the rear vertical raised center strip, add in extensions to the left and right edges so that the sides close and the outside edge overlaps the inside edge the same width as the vertical center strip. Affix the center strip aligned with the center line of your leg and Wahla! your shins close and meet CRL requirements. You will have to build up any details that continue from the original piece to the center vertical strip, but bondo, filler putty, or an ABS strip can take care of the extension of the details. Gerald @DoggyDoc had to make extensions for his forearms and shins and he has a really good section on it in his build thread. Here is a simplified explanation I did for someone a while back which may help in visually seeing what I suggested. Hope this helps. Like I said don't panic. Also, Jim only makes 2 sizes, regular and tall, neither one increase the diameter of the shins, only the length is different.
  8. Anovos helmets were produced by scans of an actual helmet, they are the standard to which the CRL was written. They do run small so some people have issues wearing them. They are heavier than most others, but there's just something about having one that makes your toes tingle! 🤣😅😆 I think I paid $600 a few years ago. Depending on availability, I've seen them as high as $1200.
  9. Awesome! And keeping right on hounding me! I live for this $h1t 😅
  10. I bought a hard hat from Lowes Home Improvement and cut it up. Here are two video tutorials on YouTube done for a TK helmet, but it's the same process, and the other is for a DT
  11. Philip, What a huge undertaking with the leg armor. I know you aren't completely finished and they are still a work in progress but I need to make sure you are aware of a couple of things. The shallow grooves you are fabricating are only about 3-5mm wide. They are not the same width as the forearm or bicep grooves. This is the same with the shin grooves.
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