Dart

The Tie bit is from the original 1978 MPC Darth Vader TIE Fighter model kit. The Harley bit is from the Tamiya 1/6 Harley Davidson FXE1200 AMF Super Glide, however the sprue that I bought was (apparently) from a Tamiya 1/6 Harley Davidson FLH1200 AMF. From what I can tell by looking at both kits, they have some similar parts, so any of the 1/6 kits that are like these two should have the correct sprue (Sprue C). Heard about it from RS Propmasters who heard about it through a Facebook group. Dimensions: Tie bit: Length: 41mm; Width: a hair over 15 mm; Depth: 6mm Harley bit: Length: 33.5mm; Width: 30mm; Depth with fins: 13.5mm; Depth w/o fins: 8mm Hex size: Width(flat sides): 2.5mm; Depth: 1.5mm Complete T-bit length: 49mm This is how the Harley bit looks off the sprue. It has these little bits on the sides which we will need to cut off to make it look right... You'll notice that the fins at the bottom edge of the Harley bit are rather tall (5mm). I think for the movie, they were probably trimmed down as I can totally see how they'd get caught on stuff or just snap off. Also, from a molding/casting perspective, those would be a pain to reproduce quickly so trimming them down would make sense to begin with. Fun fact about the Tie bit: it's not universal. There's a left and a right piece that are mirrored/reversed. I did check the Blu-ray image and found the correct one, which is shown in the photos here. I sincerely hope they didn't mess with us and use the other side for the other bicep piece, and given the time crunch that's usual on a movie set, I doubt that would've been practical. You can see the depth of the parts when put together. And how the Harley bit isn't raised or shimmed, but it's the correct height. You can also see just how tall those fins are. Also, you can see how the edge of the Harley bit is curved, not stepped. Just a nice gradual curve from the side to the top, no step into a 90 degree corner at all, anywhere on the piece.

One thing I can suggest is that when you're carving the boots, don't go too nuts with the depth if you don't want to. I've had a pair of Sierra Sneakers in the past and the depth of those cuts is only 1/16".

I'd go for the first option for the flight suit. Nomex can get pretty steamy and for what we use the coveralls for, the Nomex is not worth the price. Plus, you could always get 2 of the other suits if you ever troop back to back and don't have time to wash. That said, Wampa Wear does sell a plain black suit that could work for you too. Not having to remove pockets makes things a bit easier.

Just thought I'd weigh in a bit here about the strapping around the boot for the holster. Wayyyy back when, there was an image that was sent to the toy companies about how to depict the Scout. It was a pre-production shot that did have straps around the boot. Those straps were removed for the final version of the costume, but have never been removed from any Scout figure that's been made. So that's why you see the straps on every single right boot. What was mentioned before about the toy manufacturers having free reign over the colours they use is totally spot on. There was a 2 pack of "Snow Scouts" with grey undersuits and white armour. Most toys are not generally the best guides because of that. Also, we've updated a few of the strapping measurements for the Scout CRL, making changes to the webbing widths of the shoulder bell (1/2"), bicep (2"), and underarm chest/back strapping (1.5"). If that's something that you fine folks decide to adopt, have at it. We made the changes due to how difficult it was to find some of the widths (1 3/8" elastic isn't easy for everyone to get) and just to get a better definition for future scouts. This also interests me on a personal note as I'm planning on converting my old MC Scout to a Shadow Scout once I get me some new armour.

The one that's in the first post is similar to the concept carbine that's in one of the concept drawings of the biker scout. Thanks to Battlefront, scouts can also carry a BFG like a DLT-19, as has been stated above. Personally, even though I love my concept carbine, I like not having to carry something all the time.

To be honest, I think it looks better upside-down. It seems to match the taper to her back that way and, to me, just looks better.

Looks like a solid concept you've got there! As an aside, a friend of a friend actually did Darth Talon for halloween one year. She looked... good...

When I did my scout, I used snaps for the shoulder connection. My kit came with 4 snaps and some plastic squares pre-drilled. Just knock the snaps together and then glue the squares to the inside of the shoulder straps. The connecting bit is just a piece of nylon webbing. I sewed my joint covers to the webbing just so it doesn't slide around. So far, so good.

This is a great shot of what it's supposed to look like. Only difference is that the straps are on the outside of the leg. I actually used a medium-heavy weight faux suede. It was actually from a black faux suede placemat, ha! As for the mudflap, the general rule is that you stick it on at about waist height and it extends to the bottom of your butt and about as wide as your waist. More or less.

I've got one of those Aker amps and I love it. I put the speaker in my front left pouch (of my TB) and I've routed the wire from the headset through my gear so that it doesn't show. Very comfy and it's great when you know your normal voice won't be loud enough. Plus, you can set the volume higher and just talk normally instead of having to yell. Another bonus is that it's got a line in so you can put an iPod with chatter through it. As for the board, I honestly wouldn't worry about it for your SS. In ROTJ, the scouts just had regular amplified voices, no fuzz or any other effects. And as cool as it can sound, I find that I have a hard time understanding what some of the guys in my garrison are saying. Another issue I ran into when figuring out this issue is that I didn't have much space in the bucket for a fan/battery and an amp/board/speaker. I picked up a replacement metal aerator tip with a speaker but it really doesn't put out much sound.

The actual hard bits of the belt I was lucky with as I've got a set of MC armour (belt is one piece). But the boxes, generally, should be right at the height of your jeans pockets. If you're following BSN standards, the boxes really shouldn't be more than 3 or 4 inches lower than the bottom of the belt.

I'm also contemplating one of these. It'd be nice to have black and white scout suits. Good luck!

Getting the boot tops right can be tricky. Make sure to do a few good paper versions before cutting anything out. Otherwise, they look good!