Tachyon

Work on the project had stalled again The build team who were "absolutely going to see it through" cut the helmet apart then didn't provide any further assistance. Loosing the bucket was a major set back. However, one of my other garrison mates has since offered to help with some 3D modelling of the helmet. This should provide a much more accurate version of the helmet than my original sculpt and also provide a permanent model of it too. It's going to take him a while to get it done as he is back at uni in the next few weeks, but we went over the helmet today and he also had a crack at the blaster/speargun while he was here. I'm sure he will be along shortly to show off his work The other parts of the suit are as they were at the last update. Nothing has been trashed or damaged and it has all survived a house move in the last month. The Backpack is still a work in progress, I'm having trouble working out the best and most sturdy way to glue ABS at 90 degree angles. If anyone has any suggestions, I"m all ears.

Ok, so I've been working on finding an imaging hosting solution since photobucket died. Couldn't get imgur to work, so using Facebook in the meantime. Put some hours in to the backpack over the last few days. Still lots to do on it, but in the comparison pic, the old backpack is on the right with the new one built from ABS on the left. Note the much better tanks on the new one compared to the old one. Just have to finish sanding the right tank back (PLA sucks...) so it can slot in properly and finish cutting the rectangles on the side. In the next comparison photo, I have the old hose connector (basic) compared to a fitting that I was going to use for a Kir Kanos glaive. The glaive fitting is larger, but will comfortably hold the hose. I like it as it makes the hose fitting look much larger and I think matches the reference better than the previously used fitting. Old fitting at top, new fitting on bottom. The plan is to rotocast out the final backpack, once this one gets all its gaps filled and looks shiny. Don't have pics yet, but the belt boxes and buckle moulds and the shoulder moulds are ready to go, so vacforming those in the next week or so.

Got the kit out again, the workshop guys are back into their stuff again after some lengthy illness and so I could tag along and get some more work done. Bells are ready to be pulled and then have the final moulds made. Same with the back of the helmet. I'm spending the next few days finalizing the drop boxes and belt buckle for vacforming at the next build day and hopefully fit in finishing off the backpack as I had custom printed tanks made (as my PVC pip attempts were failing). More pics to come soon

I think I get what you're talking about. My concern is that the side profile from the right had trooper in the reference pic doesn't seem to match that (though I can see how it would be argued). To me it looks like the 'E' straps are extensions of the front part and not coming from beneath the front part. I covered a TK shin in tape and sketched out my idea of one of the greaves. Essentially, this is the front trooper's right hand leg and the back trooper's left hand leg (the ones where the rear 'straps' match). In the images with the orange line, the scribbled on parts would be cut out, revealing the TK shin below. On the green part, the shaded area represents flexible straps (flat) that will close over the slit in the TK shins. In my head, the TK shin would go on first, then the Seatrooper detailing panel would magnet to the front and the straps magnet around the back. I think it will give the most 'seamless' look while still being wearable. This is my previous attempt at that shin which I think is too bulky looking when compared to the rest of the costume, however, more accurate to the reference; It was sculpted on 100mm PVC pipe.

Hi Guys, I figured I'd start a new thread outside of my main build thread to address the issue of the shins. I really need other people thoughts on this issue as I've been drawing a blank on them almost as long as I've been working on the project. As there really is only one reference that shows the shins in detail, it is tough to actually nail it out. The overall shape is different between the two legs, not sure if this is due to perspective or just a general star wars trait. The left leg appears tapered while the right appears cylindrical. I did attempt to rough sculpt the shins as shown here; However, I don't feel that these look right. I have them finished and the plaster moulds sitting in the box, they just look way too bulky and out of sync with the rest of the costume. The other problem is that the is no physical way to put them on if I leave them seamless. A potential solution came to me though when I saw my mate's Shoretrooper. The legs look like general TK shins, but with the skinning and camlocks over the top. So, my question I guess is; How do people feel about taking a similar approach with the Seatrooper shins? Obviously there would need to be bigger parts overlying the TK Shins than what is on the Shoretrooper, but the principle would be the same. Does anyone else have other suggestions for how I can achieve the look for the shins? Hopefully we can get some sorely needed input, this is one of the big fabrication issues that has been putting me off working on the costume as I haven't been able to work out a solution myself.

As it stands progress on the kit is; Helmet:- In three pieces. It was decided by my local CRL team that the front outside panels on the side with the little rectangle are actually angled sweeps and the rectangle is a cut out similar to the ears on the TB helmet. This is the main modification that I still need to make as now it has been said, I can't get it out of my head and it looks better/makes more sense than what I originally sculpted. The problem however is that the angle for the sweep starts right on the seamline between the two plugs and I want/need the guys who cut the helmet in half to line it up properly (should have rotocast it...) The mould for the front half in addition to the sweeps needing adding was damaged when I removed the plastic from the plaster mould and it ripped up the top of the sensor array, so that needs fixing as well, though relatively that is easy. However, due to the two issues, I think I may need to learn how to 3D model the helmet to prevent future approval suggestions. Torso, Backplate and Pelvis: Haven't started. Will need to modify vacform moulds from a TK & TB which are being supplied for this purpose. Shoulder Bells: Moulds complete, ready to go. Arms: Need to mod TB moulds. Again, they are being supplied for this purpose. Legs: The OTHER big sticking point. In discussions with my CRL team about making them similar to Shoretrooper legs. Need opinions and views of other people though. Would a 'E' shaped system that straps over TK shins be acceptable? Camlocks were suggested by my garrison CRL team here, however, there is no detailing to suggest they are there. A similar argument could be made about the shoretrooper-like shins. There are no seams on the reference pics for the seatrooper, so in order to maintain a seamless approach, the shins need to be oversized which look stupid. The current prototype fails to hit the visual mark (should be a photo in the thread, otherwise will upload later today) as it just looks cumbersome. Need to start a discussion me thinks. Boots: Need to find soft white boots. Low priority at this stage. Belt Boxes and Buckle: 3D Print done, just need to make vac forming moulds. Fins: Originals obtained, just need to make moulds. Soft Parts: In the works. Gloves and undersuit done, need cummerbund as last one went mouldy in storage. Backpack: The blueprints are done and scale seems accurate. Started out making the panels, but discovered that the pipes I was using weren't uniformly round and the wall thickness also wasn't uniform, so my 3D printed tank toppers did not fit. Plan is to 3D print a prototype tank with the topper included, then mould it and make a rotocasting mould. Then all tanks for the kits would be pulled that way and slot into the backpack smoothly. Blaster: Need to start 3D modelling. I think that's it. Need to run to work. Will try to update further shortly

Yep, still going on it, just haven't had a whole lot of spare time lately I am hoping to have some more progress on it soon as the boys who have been helping me vacform have graciously offered me copies of their TB and TK moulds to modify for the parts that are similar. They only just finished both of those projects so those copies should come along soon. Meanwhile I've been trying my hand at 3D modelling. I've been running into some hurdles with the local CRL team and some details on the helmet. If I can't get back over to the build team to finish off the helmet in the next few weekends I might have to 3D model it as the mods are easier made in the sculpting phase than the post fiberglass phase. It would also help with the symmetry. But hoping to see them this weekend or next all things going to plan. The 3D modelling that I have been able to do was the belt buckle and the dropboxes. Just have to pick them up from the printer, clean up the print lines and then make a vac forming plug That part I can do on my own so those parts will be easy. Then just have to chat with the build team about vacforming it. Still hoping to have this finished soon, just haven't had alot of free time since Christmas as I had hoped. And when I do, the build team who I need for assistance fixing up the bucket for vacforming haven't been free -.- Shouldn't have cut it in half until the details were confirmed.

Still working, it's been a busy two months. Haven't had much progress, though I have the plaster moulds to work on from the test pulls of the helmet body. The plaster bubbled, so lots of holes to fill, and not alot of time spare in the lead up to Christmas.

Alright! Vacforming of the helmet body has begun! Can anybody say Shadow Seatrooper? We pulled these two parts in black HIPS as this was just the test, and everyone expected the first attempt to tear on the corners at the top as they are so sharp. But, to everyone's surprise, the parts pulled extremely well! Just need to heat the corners a bit to make sure all the lines are sharp. Then we're going to back fill these parts with plaster to create the final bucks for the vacforming machine and then to the final pull in white HIPS or ABS. There is a video of us pulling the front half here;

More progress today. Unfortunately, the weather changed and I couldn't do as much as I wanted to get done. A side note, we decided that the little rectangle thingies on the sides of the front part of the helmet should actually be recessed, similar to the ears on the TB helmet. So we sliced them off. Things to do before weekend; Back of helmet: - Patch up sculpted part from today (ruptured through to plaster layer which I knew would happen. Just have to smooth it) - Tidy up edges for vac forming - Spray putty - Carve cut line Front of helmet: - Tidy up edges for vac forming (lots to do here) - Carve side vents - Spray putty - Carve cut line The faceplate still needs a bit of work, so if we get to vac forming this weekend, it may not be on the list of things to do. We shall see. Time is a little tight for me this week, so if I can get the bulk of the helmet done, then I'll have another week or so to just focus on the faceplate.

Still have alot of work to do, but if I can plough though it this week and the shipment of ABS arrives, we should have the first plastic prototype helmet pulled next weekend, at least of the body of the helmet. I've gotta run to work, but I'll upload a pic tomorrow showing the helmet's current state. Then it's just a matter of getting the other part moulds made. Hoping to have it all done and submitted by January since the Dreamworld weekend (closest thing Aus has to a celebration at the moment) was confirmed to be coming back next year. Gotta have it approved for that

I've spent the last few days working at the helmet. I got together with the local build team, initially to discuss rotocasting the helmet, but it was decided that vac forming it would be a better option. So we cut the helmet in half with the intention of doing it as a three-piece kit. I then spent two days filling the interior of the parts with plaster (to strengthen them for the vac forming machine), stripping paint and building up the back of the bucket as it was a touch asymmetrical (the green/grey parts are the built up bits). We decided the front of the bucket was fine and the face plate will be separate. Tomorrow I'm meeting with them again, this time to cut out the tube connectors on the face plate and finalize the moulds. Hopefully, if things run to schedule, the first pull will happen by the end of the month. Progress pic below! The boys have also offered me plaster copies of their TK and TB moulds to modify so the whole kit can be vac formed. The legs and backpack will still need to be custom made, but if everything is being vacformed, the reality of this becoming a kit is pretty high. Watch this space

A bit more progress today, I drafted the backpack in 3D to see how it looks when rotated to match the references. Had to do a bit of tweaking to my original backpack plans. The first side pic and first back pic are the original working design I had in the first iteration of the backpack that was made into a fiberglass mold. From that, I've had to tweak measurements as I can't get PVC to match the diameter I originally used for the tanks. When compared to the side profile of the reference image, I noticed the control panel is not visible in the reference. So I dropped it to sit flush with the top of the tanks. It is still visible when I tilt the model to match the reference, so the only other real option to me is to make the control panel smaller, however, when looking at the reference of the back of the backpack (top left, coloured reference) and comparing to a back view of the model, it panel seems correctly sized. So my justification is that the artist simply forgot to sketch the control panel on the backpack of the side reference. I also raised the side cutouts and made the rectangles smaller, to better match the reference. The only other detail I feel needs justification is the inverted 'T' that appears to be the top of the control panel on the back reference. I don't see how there can be a stem running flush with the top of the control panel to the top of the backpack, and still have the tank causing the shadow on the reference. Again, my justification for this is artist error. Also worked out a potential way to smooth over the top of worbla to give it an armor-like surface (instead of its course texture) so I'll whip up the shoulder bells and give it a crack.

Bit of an update today. Been a busy week at work, but I managed to mock up the cylinder domes for the back pack for consideration by my GMO/one of the LMOs. Bit of discussion about the shape of them in the reference, will keep everyone posted First pic is my initial interpretation of the dome. On discussion with my garrison's XO (housemate) and GMO, it was suggested that the tops may not be spherical and slightly parabollic. So I mocked up some tops with ellipsoids (second pic). Third pic is my justification for using a 30mm dia circle as the tank topper (I'm using a 100mm dia pvc pipe for the tank, though may scale it back to 95mm if I can find that size. The original backpack used 95mm poster tubes and looks more compact.) I think the 60mm ellipsoid best approximates the reference, but will wait to see what my GMO suggests as well. As always, open to feedback from you guys too. Pics here are thumbnails, click for full sized images Also, I found the belt in storage. Unfortunately, the news isn't great. It was probably the worst stored part, the webbing has discoloured and stained, and the fiberglass pieces had warped like the backpack did. But it's ok. We have the technology. We can rebuild. In the very least I can pull the measurements and reconstruct them in ABS when that arrives.

Thought I'd give 3D modelling a go, so I drafted up the greeble piece for the helmet snout. It's a 3 part greeble, the main parts separated so I can vapor bathe the parts to remove the print lines. Then put it all together. Hoping to get a slush cast of my helmet so that it is in urethane and therefore, easier to modify than the fiberglass it currently is. I'll then sand off 5mm from the snout, removing the current sculpted snout so I can replace it with a smoother and more accurate snout piece as moddled above. Finally, bondo around the seams and sanding to get the curve back from the cheeks to the edge of the snout. Something to do while I wait for the ABS for the new backpack to arrive from china and a day off to go get craft foam for the worbla.

Worked a bit on the elbow armour tonight. Decided to take a different approach and see what the TB armour with the TK laddering would look like (instead of shaping the TK armour to the TB shape.) Here's a pic comparing the two; Any opinions? I also filled the back of the TB chest plate, with the intention of sanding the front flat and then cutting the Seatrooper details in. Unfortunately, the only resin I had on hand was translucent resin, so you can't really see anything in the photos. (Click on thumbnails to enlarge ) Second pic is the sketch of the cut lines based on the fiberglassed armour. ABS sheets purchased, so I'll be able to cut out the ladders on the elbow piece and back fill it soon. Then, if the look is right, the elbows will be done. Once the sheets of ABS arrive, I can put the shields on the bicep armour and then I just need the T pieces to complete them. Shoulder bells will be the next casting project, just need to work out how best to sillicone mould them.

Any updates on your helmet mate? Looks awesome so far!!

Alrighties, an update on what has survived storage! All in all, it's held up alright. There are a few things that I need to repair, and alot I'm considering rebuilding due to advancements in 3D printing, availability of thermoplastics and just in my general building skill as well. I've taken the existing CRL Izzi posted back when I started, and I'll use it to establish a new starting point for this armour. I am very aware that the requirements will change as we get closer to submitting it for approval. If anyone has suggestions, I'm always open to them, and if any GMLs or the LMO are reading this, I am very keen for your input. My 2AM brain couldn't let me sleep for thinking about this project, first time in a long time. So I just had to get online and post Here we go! Aquatic Assault Trooper (Seatrooper) CRL ARMOR (All hard armor may be white gloss, semi-gloss, or weathered) * Chest Plate: Scout style chest plate * Back Plate: Scout style back without tank. Tank is replaced by the Air tanks described below. No permanent flashing lights or LED's are acceptable anywhere on the costume. Initially, we made this one piece for stability of the cardboard prototype and ease of casting the fiberglass prototype. In retrospect, this wasn't the greatest idea. I never was a fan of how it sat, and now, pulling it out of storage, the straps bend the wrong way (but I think that's how it always was). Should be higher at the back. Because this part is all fiberglass and still needs alot of work, I'm most likely going to take reference measurements from it and start from scratch, using card or a stiff foam as a base, then worbla, then lots of rondo/bondo work to give it a smooth armour feel. I always thought the look between chest plate and back plate was seamless, however, on reviewing the reference images, that is not clear. So I think it should be ok to split it like the TB torso armour, as that is what the Seatrooper approximates. (green lines are rough split lines.) ** Air Tanks: Consists of a rectangular box with two air canisters on top. A control pad rests between and slightly overlaps the canisters. This part was largely finished when it went into storage. Since then, it has warped slightly on the edges. I'm not 100% happy with how it is now, the domes are bumpy (I pepakuraed them originally, so they were never going to be smooth) the holes on the control panel aren't perfectly round, and the side warping is going to be difficult to fix (as it is fiberglass). I feel I can do better now, so again, thinking of using the original prototype for measurement reference and making a new one from ABS sheets, PVC pipe and 3D printing the domes. * Shoulder bells: Scout style Incorrect. I'd like to make a change to this CRL as they are more pointed, similar to a TK's shoulder bells, but without the central ridge. I think I have mentioned this previously. In the V1 of this costume, we actually got a discarded pull of TK shoulder bells from the local vac formers and removed that ridge, casting a fiberglass buck. As it still has a bit of flaring on the edges, I'm considering silicone moulding these, slush casting a set from that mould then refining the edges. * Bicep armor: Scout style. Must have black t-bits. I have an old set of scout biceps that I am using. There is a shield bit that appears to be added laterally though. (Pic in next section) * Elbow armor: Scout style Again, I'd like to make a change to the CRL. The shape of the elbow armour looks the same as the scout armour, however, in one of the references, a rectangular pattern can be seen. So in the past, I've outlined a TK forearm with the shape of the TB elbow armour with the intention to cut it down. My argument here is that the central pattern on the armour in universe likely has a similar appearance to the TK's (as they are presumably from the same manufacturer). Happy to have a discussion on this point though. There's going to be a bit of that. * Belt: 2" webbing belt with buckle and 4 utility case combination attached to the front. A thermal detonator is not present. No permanent flashing lights, or colored marking other than black bits are acceptable. Unfortunately, the belt wasn't with the rest of the stuff in storage. Pretty sure I missed it in the GNK droid I kept parts in, hopefully it is still there as it was 100% finished and probably the only part I was not going to have to remake or edit. It probably should be noted here that there is one drop box on either side that should be made to match the visual references. *Cod plate: Should be made to match the detailed West End Game visual references * Buttplate: Should be made to match the detailed West End Game visual references * Knee armor: Scout style knee are should be used and be affixed to the top of the greaves * Shin Armor (greaves): Should be made to match the detailed West End Game visual references All of these parts need to be made from scratch. I have the plaster mould of one leg, and a fiberglass version of the other, but they both need alot of work (the mould has been damaged) and probably more effort than required. The V1 parts will be used for measurements and references. HELMET * Modified Scout Helmet : Helmet may be white gloss, semi-gloss, or weathered * Air tubes: 2 two ribbed hoses that go from each side of the snout to the repective sides of the tank. * Ears: May Must be closed off resembling the West End Games reference. ** Dome: May Must have a raised dome with a "sensor array" resembling the West End Games reference pictures. *White Biker Scout helmet: Don Post/Rubies Licensed replica acceptable. These additional modifications will also need to be done to this helmet: ** Remove the logo on the back neck ** Repaint bucket if it's not white (unless you go dirty) ** Replace lens ** Slim facemask if it's flared ** Replace bolts on visor/bucket ** Replace aerator I feel the helmet part of the CRL needs a rewrite. Ultimately, a modified scout bucket needs ALOT of work to remotely match the visual references as the whole structure needs to be altered to accomodate the dome sensor array and different ears. May as well remove the mention of modifying one. SOFT GOODS * Undersuit: One or two piece compression style body suit. May be a dive suit, UnderArmour or similar style and material. * Gloves: tight fitting, non-ornamental gloves that match the material of the body suit. * Cummerbund: Plain white tight fitting material resembling the armor, without any ribbing or ornamental stiching that covers the abdomen. This is recommended but not required. My intention was to always use a TK body suit, elbow length black gloves and a TB cummerbund without the pouches (justification being that this armour closely resembles a TB in the torso). So my cummerbund would differ to the CRL by having the stitched ridges as per a TB cummerbund. Discussion with GMLs & the LMO will clarify this point as the references are vague. My cummberbund has succumbed to mould during storage. My girlfriend assures me she can bleach that out though. FOOTWEAR * Fins: White fins modified to resemble the visual references. White or black dive boots may be worn instead, but fins must be carried or attached to the shins or belt of the armor. I never got to researching the boots for the costume. Either custom made, or I'll use existing dive boots as a reference. Stay tuned for this point. The fins however, I am comfortable saying they are Voit Duck Feet. These are fins of the era that the book was illustrated. I tracked down a pair on ebay years ago, and being rubber, I thought they would have perished by now. But nope, they are still very hardy looking. I'll probably have to make a copy of them in card or cast them to remove the lettering and such. The ankle straps will also need to be removed. A system of linking them to the greaves will be investigated so that they can flip up and down, but I imagine for the most part they'll be fixed to the front of the greaves. (Cause I already have a distinct walk in my TK, so why turn that into a waddle?? ) WEAPON * E-11/Speargun Hybrid: built to resemble visual references The moulds for the gun have broken That said, I'm not heart broken. The original was very blocky. Something I intended to fix after the first prototype was pulled. As stated previously, I think the best course now is to 3D print the parts, as this will give me the look I'm after. With all that said and done, it's looking remarkably well. I'll get to work during the week and keep you all posted as to my progress Funny story, I lost all my local copies of references a few years ago when my harddrive failed. So I jumped on google this morning to find them again. After a few minutes looking through a photobucket album thinking "There's alot of great references for other TX costumes here too", I realized google had linked me to my own bucket... As always, I'm keen to hear people's feedback on my thoughts. The gun will probably be the last part I get to, but if anyone knows of a super beginners tutorial for 3D modeling, I'd love to have a look. I've tried to learn 3 times now, but struggle with the tutorials I've followed in the past.

Oh long forgotten thread, The world thought you were dead, Shake the dust from your pages, Arise now from your slumbering bed. Hi everyone! How has it been? Almost four years since my last post... eek. In those four years, this project pretty much came to a halt when my mentor and workshop partner developed pituitary cancer and could no longer assist/teach me things that were required. I then moved house, joined admin of a superhero costuming group who worked closely with our local 501st, graduated uni and got a real job (the real time killer). Excuses excuses I know, but I've been really removed from the 501st scene most of this time But, I'm back at it. My mentor is in remission, though the extent of the brain surgery he had to have has left him chronically exhausted an unable to assist physically with the project. But at least he is still with us. Over the last weekend, we had one of the three big conventions in my city, OzComicon, and there was a big Star Wars reveal on the Saturday. With all the speculation and hope, rumors it was going to be for Celebration Australia were high. It turned out to be the Death Trooper Squad, but my interest in finishing the Seatrooper was already piqued. After all, the other costuming group was closed down, and now I need a newer 501st costume to keep going to conventions in (Though the Shoretrooper is also pretty sick). I'm headed to my parents place to look for the boxes in storage there today. Hopefully they don't have too much damage. The helmet is still in my possession, it's a bit beat up, needs a new paint job and what not, but all up, not looking too bad for 4 years in storage. The local vacforming/casting team is going to take a look at it to see how hard it will be to resin cast it (the current one is fiberglass, without my mentor's vacuum worktable I'm super hesitant to sand it back). I guess at the moment I really need to see what needs a remake and what can still be used, but I'm back and keen to finish this project. I may require encouragement, and the approvals climate has changed since last we looked at this project, but I'm keen. Some pics of the bucket as of this writing; As you can see, it needs some love. But it could be alot worse. From memory, the shoulder bells have been plaster moulded, so I'm going to try to lay down a layer of silicone as a release agent, then slush cast them in urethane. The aim is to translate as many fiberglass parts into urethane or bondoed worbla as possible. I still have to custom make the codpiece and shins and I'm almost 100% sure the gun was destroyed so might hit up some 3D moddlers to have that printed now (the building tech has really changed in 4 years o.o). More pics to come when I get the box out of storage Well, thanks for reading, and I'm quite certain we'll get this project finally finished!

An update; So my partner in this build was diagnosed with a brain tumor shortly after my last post. He's since had it removed and is recovering well, but it will be a little while yet before we can get back to work. Hoping though that we will get the build finished quickly in the new year Just waiting for him to recover so we can continue.

It's the fourth image in the first post. It's a little small, but it's the best detail image to work from.

Hehe, Yep still got that interest list from way back for the helmets. My tutor is busy until next month working on another film, so hopefully I'll be able to sit down with him then and nut out how we're going to finish the project.

Can I offer some thoughts on the Helmet? The bucket for the seatrooper is a custom scuplt. The tubing around the back of the helmet sticks out too much for you to be able to close in the ear vents. If you just close them over, the lower part looks bulky and ungainly in comparison with the rest of the helmet and you'd have to beef out the top part, making you look like a bobble head. If you cut the sides down though, you loose the structural integrity of the helmet and you basically have to rebuild it anyway. If you're adding the dome light on top, thats another huge section of the helmet that needs modding, and if not done correctly, it just looks too big or too small. The close up of Commander Aban's hemet in the WEG book shows that the shroud dosn't protrude much past the faceplate, not anywhere near as much as the normal TB. When talking about the helmet, and in sculpting it, I used primarily that Aban close up as it shows the most detail. As for the back, most SW universe helmets from that era (OT era) have little to no detailing on the back of the helmet, so I used the reasoning that there would be no detail there, and the far shot on the cover would be good enough. In talking with GMLs and LMOs, I've had their agreeance on this point.

Hey mate, looks like you're stepping up to the plate on this I like it, but I can see that you're thought patterns are exactly where mine were when I started my build; http://forum.501stsp...atrooper-build/ While the WEG seatrooper looks like a modified scout, it isn't. I eagerly bought a TB with the intention of modifying it to be a seatrooper. When I pulled the parts out of the box and started playing, I realized that there are parts you just can't do it on. Among other parts, the chest plate is *heavily* modified, and while you could use the standard scout back plate, you'd still need to make modifications to make it seamless, and account for the longer running straps on the chest piece. The Shoulder Bells are more a TK style, as they are pointed at the top in the reference pic and the TB bells are rounded. TK forearms are too long to use, and cutting a pair down looks strange, so it's more a custom job on those as well. TB biceps work well though, with the 'T' bits. The Bucket though, you could never modify a TB helmet accurately. It needs to be a custom built helmet. There are far too many inconsistancies between the TB and Seatrooper buckets. Trust me on this one, I broke down the references for the helmet in order to sculpt it. The cod is not a TB cod, as I made this connection too, but the TB cod is a fabric extention on the cummerbund, while the seatrooper armour clearly connects with the butt plate and is solid. And it is a PITA to create, that and the greaves are the two hardest parts I've found on the suit. Don't want to be putting you off the build or anything, but I've been working on mine on and off for 3 years now, and I really wish I could dedicate more time to finishing it. But over that time I've had discussions with 3 LMOs and 2 GMLs as well as the wonderful guys here on the spec ops boards about the details on this suit. It is one that is far more difficult to piece together than it initially seems. In my correspondences, I've been told several times that a modified TB simply won't cut it. If it did, then I would have been approved a long time ago. If you want to chat and gnaw my ear off, by all means I'm happy to discuss the seatrooper and it's details. Please don't take this as criticism and me being narky cause I'm making one, but I've been through all you're going through at the moment, and by the sounds of things you're following my footsteps exactly. Just want to share my experiences Tach PS. Also, you mention Izzi's draft CRL. I wrote that one for him It does need some revisions (alot), but I wrote it after the first LMO (Spanos) knocked back my ideas. Have had drafts kicking around my PC as I have been finding more intricate details and whatnot while sculpting, though it's been a long while since I looked at them.