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amcclary

501st SpecOps[TX]
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amcclary last won the day on December 29 2017

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About amcclary

501st Info

  • Name
    Andrew
  • 501st ID
    97649
  • 501st Garrison
    Everglades Squad

SpecOps Info

  • TotM Datestamp
    May 2019

Profile Information

  • Location
    Boca Raton, Florida
  • Interests
    Design, Fabrication, Prop making, custom cars, electronics

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  1. The lenses are usually cut out of green welding shield. Pyramex Safety Full Face Shield Eye & Head Protection (Headgear Not Included), Dark Green Polyethylene - ANSI Z87 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YA27DRC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_7QW6MEVKA1CVQCY8G8ZF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
  2. I would reach out to Tom Campbell. He has the best files.
  3. Congratulations!!! Lookin good trooper.
  4. You should considered fiberglass? I’ve been making fiberglass kits since R1 released. Easier to finish than ABS or 3D prints and super durable. Fiberglass produces a lot crisper details than ABS. While a little more expensive as a kit, it’s a better value long term especially if you value your own time.
  5. You definitely want Tom’s files. I would definitely not use PLA. While it prints well, it’s melting point is too low and I’ve seen lots of PLA prints warped/melted after being left in a hot car or trunk. It’s also very hard to sand for the same reason. Use either ABS printed in an enclosed printer or PETG.
  6. plasticarmsdealer.com ship internationally.
  7. Plasticarmsdealer.com We just started making fiberglass ones which are lighter than resin and super strong
  8. I would look for the files from Tom Campbell. His were the ones used for the CRL. They were also used by us to make the molds for our fiberglass armor.
  9. I would be glad to help you out. We carry the armor and most of the hard parts needed. Best way to reach me is via Facebook messenger. Plasticarmsdealer.com
  10. https://plasticarmsdealer.patternbyetsy.com/listing/669826003/death-trooper-side-scanner-for-helmet
  11. I used 2 different paints for our helmets plus a high gloss polyurethane clear. I like Rustoleum Camo colors flat black. It’s a good deep black.. after priming, I paint the whole helmet with this first as a base For the silver areas I like a graphite wheel paint put out by Duplicolor It’s available at most auto parts stores. It a dark silver looks more ominous and realistic that silver paint There are lots of arguments over the actual paint scheme. Truth is, from my production experience some of what people are seeing is reflections in the black gloss and also “dust” was probably sprayed into areas on set to keep the helmets from picking up the cameras in the shots. The alternating paint scheme some people use looks odd in real life Some of the areas the are painting with a metallic black I think are just a mat black which looks dark gray on camera. Anyway after painting everything mat black, we mask off the areas that should remain mat and then clear everything else. Let the clear cure for at least 48 hours then mask the silver areas and paint them.
  12. Can we make these two specifications for level 2. A lot of people are only using one size of strap and and buckles of the right size but not serrated. This doesn't really effect the look and if we are going to make the interior bike/skate helmet level 2 then I would like to see this as level 2 as well. Its great the Darren was able to find the exact buckles but how easy are these to get from multiple sources. I think we need to be clear on the color throughout. I think this is the best wording and we should be consistent. I know Darren commented on the "Mandarin Style collar" but this is an actual term used by seamstresses and is know in that industry. If you talk to any of these people to have a jacket made, this is the term you need to use so they know what you are talking about. We might modify this though to be "a high Mandarin Style collar" so that its not confused with the shorter style used in shirts. (This was advice from my cloth guy.)
  13. These look like what they used for inspiration, which are Halcyon WWII RAF goggles. They used flat glass in them because if was cheaper and easier to make at that time. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pspages/halcyanGoggles.php?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIs_-Ahb_u3QIV1FuGCh1jJQWuEAQYBSABEgLYl_D_BwE
  14. My son was admitted into the hospital a few days ago after he almost stopped breathing from a complication of his bone marrow transplant a year ago so until now I have only had a few minutes to glance at the discussions the past few days until tonight. I'm back in a flight or fight mental state ready for a phone call from my wife and I'm back at the hospital but going over all this has helped me take my mind off things for a while. Darren's last post of the helmet and goggles looks pretty complete. Nothing I would really add. I'm good with it and ready to move to the next section. I do think having specific buckles isn't needed for a level 1. The buckles and clips should look similar though in material and basic shape. There is going to come a time here soon where those Yugoslavian bags are going to become hard to come by. The same is true of the hex mesh inside the mask. There should be mesh, but I think using square mesh would be fine for level one since its not really visible from a few feet away. Here are my thoughts on how the variations should be handled. The CRL should be for a basic trooper. Get this part done and complete. This should be what people should have to pass muster for approval. Then we add in option of what gear can be added, taken off, or colored differently at the end. The variations of how all this basic gear gets worn is part of what I think makes the Mud Troopers cool and different from the rest of the Empires characters but I kind of feel everyone should have full gear and not missing a left shin etc. If your on a troop and you want to leave off the helmet and cloak and say your Han, great. But if your with fellow Mud Trooper, you've got the basic gear.
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