furiosa

I tend to make the pouches after I have the armor and fitted it, in order to get the right size of the pouches.

Looks good already. Just make sure your flight suit isnt too baggy, you may have to adjust it a little bit.

from what my guy (a shoretrooper and armor-builder can say) - shins are both sides the right sided of the shore trooper - biceps armor from shore trooper - not visible on the last pics postet, but behind the hoses of the helmet there are also buckles and straps used for the shore trooper as well, same with the collar. - belt boxes are also from the shore trooper

Nice work so for. Looks realy good

Are you heading for a 501st approval??

The goal is close. Keep on Track

Well there is quiet some work to do, to get it approved. Helmet: 1. the Helmet as a back joint, which is not correct. 2. Also the Visor and the Visor needs a rework 3. the edgebinding at the opening needs to be removed 4. als the switch on the side needs to be removed 5. the cable-binder on the center back bottom needs to be removed 6, check on the details and decals ...they need an update Knees: 1. the holes in the lower center front needs to be removed 2. the holes at the sides below the slits are on the wrong position, the need to be above the slits Under arm: 1. looks ok, even If the shape is not up to date Uper arm: I´m missing those Shoulder bells: I´m missing those also Holster: why do you have 2 holsters?! Chest and Back Armor: I´m sorry to tell you but the need to be replaced fully! I don´t know what they are from but they are not from a shadow scout Belt: the plastic needs to be one piece, any additional rivets need to be invisible/removed THermal detonator: fully missing May I asked what you payed for that armor?! There is far to much to do on this armor for a 501st approval as a scout. May be you should think about selling this armor and get one iwhich is more accurate and less work.

Hi Guys, as I told Brien in the PM we are well aware there ar differences in the CRL´s for the Shadow Scout compared to the Biker Scout. And yes we are already working on an update for several Costume CRL´s, also for the Shadow Scout. I´m sorry but currently it´s not possible for me to tell you when they gonna go online. In the meanwhile the current CRL´s are valid. Please be aware the Shadow Scout and the Biker Scout are 2 different costumes. One is from the OT and the other is from a Comic out of the extended Universe. So there can be differences in the CRL´s possible, even after an CRL-update. Also since we are 2 different Detachments in charge of the CRL´s

You can basicly go also with the regular Biker Scout flight suit since both are the same as well as the requirements.

I'm not experienced with buying finished flight suit. But there are not many good offers out there. The modifications on the flight suit can be made easy by your selfe. 1. A suitable suit from dickies or redhawk must have a covered main zipper. 2. Additional pokets and zippers need to be removed 3. the collar has to be modified to a standing collar with a flap in the center Front Fulfilling Level 2 your suit hast to have also the mud Flaps between the legs as well as the back flap made from black suede leather. Also you have to have the 50mm elastics around the thigh's.

What would you like to know exactly about the flight suit?!

sounds like you are pretty busy ...congrats for your effort and success bro.

page 13 We remember ... at the mask we had to mold the chin area at the beginning, so that the Cheeks will fit with your dome. Since the chin area is deformed by our we do not get a reasonable conclusion or a straight surface, we must rework. I did this with fiberglass. I have cut a glass fiber mat, Glued in place and hardened after curing and the deformed, superfluous primary material on the Chin area of ​​the mask removed ... also this can be done best with the Dremel ... and to good Finally plan the surface using a circular grinder (or a grinding block). After that the Chin area spatted and sanded. This creates a new chin area and you can see from the Deformation nothing more Page 14 Then it looks like this

this is the translation from page 5 Now comes the difficult part ... the visor and the mask , The mask must be heated at the bottom of the chin area, otherwise the jaws do not match the dome at the bottom ... because the mask is deeply drawn, the mask is too wide at the bottom of the jaws. Do not worry ... slowly and carefully warm up with the hot air dryer and put down on the cheeks together to press. After the desired result with cold water 'quench' ... thus the plastic can not More in its previous form and remains in the position in which we want to have it. page 6 Then you have to adjust the visor to the mask. Fix the visor parts to the mask with clips and allow them to overlap at the top, and after approx Mark the accuracy of the fit with a pen. On the sides the line on the mask must be drawn so that it forms a line with the visor As soon as the desired result is obtained, the sight pieces are trimmed and, after approaching the optimum pass accuracy, glued with one (here I used gaffer tape) the adhesive tape roughly to fit the visor with the mask to the cathedral

looks like the visor is too much under tension ...try to solve it gently with the hot air blower ...the helmet maker lone wolf is making a cut at the chin area to release the tension on the visor part. This is a link to the assembly of a Lone Wolf helmet from a good buddy of mine, unfortunately it is in german. but may be it helps. especially page 5 and page 13/14 ar about the chin and the neccessary adjustment so the visor will sit proparly. https://lookaside.fb...Puy7rxSZurDWzpC let me see what I can translate for you