Torolf

Great work on the helmet! In other news I'm not dead and I'm going to start working on my kit again in the next couple months.

I'm super excited but right now I'm having to do some repairs on my custom Mando for a convention this weekend. So I probably won't do anything on this kit for the rest of the week. I am going to bring the super commando to the con as a test run though. Once that's done I'll start working on remaking the thigh plates, move the left side shoulder patch since its currently too low and fix anything I find while trooping. As soon as that's all finished I'll post updated pictures.

You're welcome. I really like these charcters and I'll do anything I can to help see them become official kits. I am curious which detachment is trying to get them. The only other one I can think of is BH because they're Mandalorian but these aren't mercs or bounty hunters. I think the semi-circle on my chest plate is slightly larger than the ones shown. It's hard to tell though since they change size slightly in nearly every scene. Sometimes it looks just slightly smaller than the ones on the upper ab plate. You're right, there are two blasters. The first larger version doesn't have an official designation yet. It's clearly a variant of Westar. It's already been confirmed that the blaster is made on Mandalore and Westar is the canon manufacturer of all Mando weapons. I think it'd be safe to just refer to it as a Westar blaster rifle. The second blaster is the standard Westar-35 with the new Rebels color scheme. I'm planning on making the 35 this weekend.

Thanks for the feedback. I need to clarify a few things though. I'm making the standard Imperial Super Commando not Gar Saxon so that's why it's all white. Here's what I'm going for. Also I'll work on the thigh plates. I also wanted to point out that the CRL I shared was for these standard commandos. There will need to be varient CRLs for Gar and also one for Tristan Wren. The blaster should be the correct color according to all the reference I can find and Mercs CRLs. The light grey and weathering is kind of washed out looking in the photo, it's darker in person. Here's a picture of the animated blaster in better light. Most of the available images are from the first episode where they're seen mostly in the dark or shadows.

The helmet took longer than expected but I finally got pictures.

Thanks for the reply. I'll be posting a bunch of pictures Sunday so you can see if the kit is up to spec. If it is I'd be glad to provide pictures for the CRL.

I did a lot of work over the weekend and all I've got left is finishing the blaster, mounting the knees to the shins and weathering everything. I should have the entire kit finished by this Saturday and take app pictures for the Mandalorian Mercs Sunday. Is there any update on the CRL? I'll do anything I can to help.

I've got ton of updates. First off are the soft parts. I decided that baseball pants were the best option and I'll just take the legs in a bit, close up the pockets and add the panel lines. I'm using these since they only have the single logo and it can be covered with the thigh plates. https://www.underarmour.com/en-us/mens-ua-clean-up-baseball-pants/pid1280994-075 I used this shirt. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XY9DBZM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I cut off the bottom half to use to make the neckseal then attached the top half to an underarmour shirt. I dyed the neckseal and surrounding area brown and attached the Imperial cog patches. I couldn't find any pre-made patches that would work so I made mine out of leather. I bought a pair of Funtasma trooper boots and painted the soles white. I bought a pair of white band gloves and glued the hand plates on with an extra leather panel to cover any visible gap between the plates and gauntlets. I attached the cod to the lower ab section and glued the side seams on the upper ab. I also etched the trim line on the upper ab. I figured out that leather handcuff pouches are the perfect size and shape. Luckily I had several old ones from work. I added thin leather to the front to cover the snap and basket weave pattern then painted them. I made the belt out of leather with sintra panels, buckle and velcro closure. The panels and buckle are 5 1/2" tall and there are 16 of them. I finished my jetpack. The fuel cells were the hardest part. I made each of them out of two mirrored panels of 3mm sintra. I heat formed the panels using a metal bowl then glued the two halves together along the outer edge. I added filler strips of sintra for the remaining edges. The panel lines were etched in with a small file. THe whole thing only weighs three pounds. Last is the helmet. The base helmet came in from etsy. I expanded the face section since it was too narrow and cut out the vertical and horizontal visor sections. I still have to add the lower cheek pieces. The earcaps were molded with the helmet so I cut them out and filled the gap with sheet metal. Since then I glued in sintra panels and started bondo and sanding. I removed the rear ridge and moved it up 1/2" to form the rear recess area. I'll be adding the raised panel and quarter round rim and blending the brow ridge into the dome later this week. From there it's a ton of filling and sanding, new earcaps and etching in all the panel lines.

Here is a rough draft of a CRL you can use. It's modified from the Merc's CRL and my own observations from additional screenshots. Helmet *Animated style helmet to match visual references is required. *The dome has a smooth transition into the helmet base without a brow ridge. *The helmet has embossed lines that outline the upper portion of the visor and extend around the back of the helmet. Additional line details outline the red inverted traingle on the forehead. Two verticle lines extend from the bottom of each earcap and end at the bottom edge of the helmet. *The bottom mouth portion of the helmet must be recessed from the rest of the face and feature six "teeth", three on each side of the vertical visor section. *The helmet must feature a black visor that is dark enough to hide the wearer's face. Visor material must be visible in the vertical visor slit of the helmet. *The helmet must have an inverted red traingle in the center of the helmet dome front. *The helmet must have two oblong earcaps. *The left will extend half way down the helmet base and features a small raised circle and one tapered antenna that extends to be level with the top of the helmet dome. *The right earcap has a cut out facing the back of the helmet. It extends 4/5th of the length of the helmet base. The earcap features a panel line on the front edge. THe earcap features a raised circle detail and two tapering antenna, the front antenna being longer than the rear. *The back half of the helmet must have a quarter-round rib detail along the bottom edge running from one earcap to the other. *The helmet must feature a raised rectangular section on the helmets inset back panel. This section must feature three embossed details to match visual references. *The rear of the helmet must feature two white, two-part decals flanking the raised rear panel detail. *The helmet dome, faceplate, rear dome, earcaps, mandibles, teeth and rear raised panel must be painted white. The cheeks, rear helmet inset, rear panel detail squares, the area under the earcaps, and the section between the teeth must be light grey. All line details must be black. *The helmet must be painted and waethered to match visual references. Flight Suit *Two piece construction. *The top will be a form-fitting, long sleeved white shirt, featuring vertical ribbing. *The shirt will feature red imperial cog with white background patches on each upper bicep. *Pants must be made of white medium weight material. The pants must be form-fitting. The pants must appear to be a six panel construction to match visual references. This can be accomplished with cosmetic stitching. *The pants will be tucked neatly into the shin armor. *The shirt and pants will be weathered to match visual references. Neck Seal *The neck seal is constructed from fabric visually matching the shirt material and featuring the same vertical ribbing. *The neck seal is dark brown to match the gauntlet, shin and hand plates in color. *The neck seal will come to the wearer's jaw-line in a turtleneck fashion. Boots *The boots will be ankle length and will not have any visible vippers, laces or other closure methods. *White leather or leather like material. *The sole will be painted white. *The sole will be flat or may feature a small heal. Gloves *White in color *No seams on the top of the hand. *Cloth only. *No straps or closures. *Will be tucked into the gauntlets. Hand Plates *The hand armor must appear to be at least 3mm thick. *Gauntlets must overlap the bottom edge of the hand plate. *Any visible gap between the bottom edge of the plate and the gauntlet should be covered with dark brown material or leather to match plate color. *Feature an embossed inverted triangle. *Will be painted dark brown with the inverted triangle painted white. Gauntlets *The gauntlets will be made of plastic or other rigid material and will appear to be at least 3mm thick. *The gauntlets must have rounded edges and wrap around the wearer's arm in a seamless appearance. *The gauntlets feature a protrusion extending slightly past the elbow. *Both gauntlets must feature an orange and a red button. The orange being on top and the red being on the bottom. *Must be painted dark brown with white panel ine outlining the elbow protrusion. Must be weathered to match visual references. Torso Armor *Imperial style three piece construction, made up of upper and lower abdominal plates and chest plate. *Must appear to be at least 3mm thick. *The chest armor will appear to be one piece wrapping from the chest over the shoulders, reaching slightly past the shoulder blades in the rear. Will feature a neck opening just large enough to allow the head to pass through. *The chest armor features a semi-circle cut out in the center of the front facing lower edge. *The chest armor will taper vertically resulting in the front being shorter than the back. *The chest armor will overlap the lower abdominal plate. *The upper abdominal plate will wrap fully around the wearer and appear to be seamless. (A small seam on the side or back is acceptable). *The upper abdominal plate will taper vertically so that the front is shorter in the back. *The upper abdominal plate will feature two semi-circle cutouts, one on the left and one to the right, evenly spaced and lining up with the line detail on the lower abdominal plate. *The upper abdominal plate will overlap the lower abdominal plate and will fall underneath the chest armor. *The lower abdominal plate will fall underneath the upper abdominal plate. It will wrap fully wrap around the wearer appearing seamless (a small seam on the side or back is acceptable). *The lower abdominal plate should be taller in the front than the back to allow the other plates to overlap without a visible gap. *The lower abdominal plate will feature two sets of vertical embossed lines on the right and left side. These lines will line up with the semi-circle cutouts in the upper plate. Inside the vertical lines will be an embossed rectangle with two line details diving it into thirds. *Torso armor will be painted white and be weathered to match visual references. Shoulder armor *Will appear to be at least 3mm thick. *Shoulder armor must be an upside down arc shape and should match the curve of the chest armor. *If the shoulder plate is to be moveable the attchment method must not be visible. *The shoulder plates will be painted white and be weathered to match visual references. *Must feature two rectangular strap plates that are attched to the chest piece wrapping over the shoulders. *The strap plates must appear to be at least 3mm thick and will be painted white. Belt *Must be made of plastic or other rigid material (can use leather or other material for the base). *Must be about six inches wide. *Must be white and constructed with sixteen plastic rectangular panels and a belt buckel with indented details to match visual references. *Must include two white tapering hip pouches attached over each hip. The poches must have leather flaps to close the pouch with no visible snaps, velcro, etc. *Must be weathered to match visual references. Cod Armor *Must appear to be at least 3mm thick with rounded edges. *Triangular shape, tapering into a rounded off point. *Features embossed line detail down the outside edges and ending in a vertical line 2/3 of the way down the plate. *Painted white and weathered to match visual references. Thigh Armor *Must appear to be at least 3mm thick, with rounded edges. *Tapering rectangular shape with short wings on either side. *Front facing wing is longer than the rear facing wing. *Embossed panel lines seperating the wings from the main panel. The main panel features an embossed rectangle. *Must be painted white and weathered to match visual references. Knee Armor *Must appear to be at least 3mm thick with rounded edges. *Must attch securely to the shin via a hidden attachment point. *Must have embossed line details to match visual references. *Must be painted dark brown with white line detail and weathered to match visual references. Shin Armor *Must appear to be at least 3mm thick with rounded edges. *Shin armor extends down the sides of each foot. *Must wrap fully around the lower leg and appear to be seamless (small seam on the side or back is acceptable). *Must be painted dark brown and weathered to match visual references. Jetpack *The jetpack must include five main components, Two tapered flanking wing sections, one recessed rectangular plate, one tubular thruster, one small square detail plate. *Must feature embossed line detailing to match visual references. *THe wings will be painted white, the thruster and rectangular panel will be dark grey and the aquare detail plate will be orange with light grey details. The jetpack will be weathered to match visual references. Blaster *Stock must appear to be telescopic. *Receiver must have two sets of iron sites. THe rear will be made of two posts and the front will be made of two posts with one circular cap set behind and between the two posts. *The scope must be mounted in the center of the receiver on a single inverted trapezoid mount. It must have an ocular and objective lense both larger than the main tube. *The receiver must be square in design with a single barrel protruding from the weapon with an inset barrel housing block. *The receiver must have an inset rounded square detail on the right and left sides toward the front of the weapon. *The receiver must have an inset rectangular detail on both sides of the main body of the receiver. *The receiver must have an inset circle and rectangle detail on both sides of the receiver toward the stock. *The stock must have an inset circle detail on both sides and an obvious butt pad. *The pistol grip must be a blocky design and must feature line details that match the visual references. *The rifle must contain an elongated, rectangular trigger guard. *The main receiver is painted a dark grey. The secondary details on the receiver, barrel block and scope are a light grey. *The sight posts, trigger guard, grip, barrel, and stock are black. *The blaster must be weathered to match visual references.

Thanks! I made some more progress today. I cut and shaped the upper abb plate and cut out the front half of the chest armor. The upper plate still needs to be trimmed some to increase the taper in the front. I also discovered that it's large enough to put on without a seam on the side so I'll glue the two halves together. I also cut out all the parts for the belt and cut and shaped one of the shins.

I hope you guys don't mind me posting here. I just started my build and I'm hoping to have it done around the end of June to mid July. So far I've ordered a shirt that should work, fabric for the neck seal, patches for the shoulders, gloves and a helmet base. This is the helmet I bought and I'm going to do extensive mods. https://www.etsy.com...visor?ref=hp_rv I'll post pictures when everything comes in. Now on to my current build progress. I figured out measurements for most of the plates from the reference images and started patterning everything. I decided to have the lower abdominal plate free floating. The upper two sections I'll have connected with strapping. All the plates are made out of 3mm sintra and the panel lines are etched in with a file. Lower abdominal plate Cod plate - painted and weathered Thigh plates - they need a bit more shaping to smooth them out Hand plates - they're darker in person