Making the Mandarin Collar-PIC HEAVY!!
This is not the only way to do a collar. You could use your spare material and a pattern and make one from scratch. What I like to do is, it is less work, is to convert the existing collar. That way you waste less material, and half the work is done for you because it's already attached to the suit. Looking at the CRL and my own suit, I have decided I want my banded collar to be 1.5 inches wide. Let me show you what I did:
First thing I like to do is square the collar tips off. I could just cut them, but then i'd have these ugly open seams to deal with, so I am going to fold them back. First step is to use a seam ripper and open up the leading edge of the collar tips. There's a plastic stiffener in there, remove it.
The ripstop material is thick when doubled, especially when there's also interfacing, so on the wrongside of the collar, cut a triangle out so that the outer material can easily fold in. Pin it.
Now sew up on the leading edge. Cut off excess material, repeat other side. Now your collar edges are square.
Now I fold my collar over to the inside, measure the outside band to 1.5 inches, pin, and sew 1/8th inch from the top.
Here's what it should look like on the outside when you're finished, nice and square.
If you're happy with it, turn to the inside and unpin, cut off excess.
You should now have a banded 1.5 inch collar. Next we'll make the collar tab.