Lee_C_77

Any updates on the progress of the crl? Although we still can’t troop over here I’d like to get this one out to bed and cleared so it’s ready.

Good call on the mesh. There is definitely mesh over the greeblies at the front. not got a clear photo but the two pill cut outs at the top front may have it too. Also, looks like T track on the red parts on each side and also on the top. A few 3D models have a tail on top but looks like t track to me

Not 100%. The colour quoted was based on pre production samples. So it’s not 100% confirmed. Apparently they start filming next week, so he’s going to check with a prop guy who worked on episode 9.

X2 This happened during the Praetorian Guard crl. On screen they used a wetsuit as the undersuit. In real life and outside the comfort of a cooled studio, this would never work. Hence common sense took over. Whilst screen accuracy is super important, we have to build and wear these at cons etc and our budget is a lot less than Disney’s.

FWIW I have Jim’s kit. If the neck section is an issue with clearance, so be it. I tried unsuccessfully to make a similar item to stretch over your head from PolyTek PT flex liquid rubber. I had several attempts, spending around £150 plus countless hours attempting it. Whilst it would be achievable, I’m not spending any more money attempting it. I made a basic O shape, with a inside diameter of my neck plus maybe 20mm and about 6mm thick. I couldn’t stretch it over my head without it tearing, and that was with it being fully cured. Also, whilst I’m waiting on confirmation of the proper paint code, matching the paint to the pigment dye of the rubber would be fairly tricky. Unless it’s a common pigment, it would be very problematic. I’m sure there are people who would have some success, but I think the outlay to manufacture these wouldn’t be worth it. Prop makers are only going to invest in production if they’re going to make money from it. I’m not sure there is the demand for a neck piece. But back to the item in question and I think someone else said that if you have to split it open to get your head in, then you have to split it open. Whether the split is in the rear or the side, if it’s abs or fibreglass it needs one. If we’re saying that rubber must be used for that part, then rubber should be used for the whole kit. Let’s not forget what we do and why we do it. I and my garrison are sticklers for accuracy, but we’re talking about a 2” seam at the back or side of the neck, making a costume none clearable. maybe level 1 - discreet join level 2 - no join level 3 - rubber Anyways, to the guys doing the CRL and the guys who have put the hours in researching, thank you.

I guess it’s up to the crl guys but there isn’t a whole lot of options. Somewhere on the neck piece there must be an opening as it has to go over your head. it’s fine for Disney as they make it from rubber and money is no object. It’s only really visible for a couple of cm’s and with the bucket on probably even less. but that’s just my opinion

This is awesome. May I just ask a couple of questions. forearms, thighs and biceps. Did you close them with glue or Velcro. I’m tempted to glue them with e6000. also, how did you make the back piece that connects at the shoulders stay down? Not at the shoulders but where it sits on your back thanks.

Hi Just to let you know, long story short, I know a guy who supplies the paint for the movies who knows one of the heads of the prop department personally. He’s asked as a favour for the Ral or colour code of the pigment used on the costumes, which he found out last week. He is currently making the paint for my armour so when I go next week to collect it, I’ll post it up here to try to get some continuity for guys building the kit. Bear in mind it’s a match for the rubber in the kit so it should look very similar when painted.