FireMist

Yes, there are benefits of longer dry time too... thanks. This is a WTF setup. and is black. It has both knees and both are in the CRL with the sniper as a level 2 option. But have to decide now which I want. I see photos of others and looks like everyone has the first not the sniper. I did choose the T21 and will be going level 2 for it with the sling option....just because I know from experience I like slings on my long arms. and since I'll be getting the DLT19 at some point.......

questions on the appearance of the helmet. sorry, i prepped a visual but can't get it to post since it is 50kb, and only 5kb allowed 1. Are the little lines across the jaw line flat black or are they dark grey stripes? 2. The temple patch and the patches on either side of the occiput (back of head) is it dark grey or flat black? 3. The area at the cheek bone, same question as the temple, dark grey or flat black and are those black stripes? The CRL is a bit confusing... uhg.. the helmet is already black so I'm not sure what they are talking about as Traps. 4. What are the "ears" mentioned? The body of the "ears" can either be black or gray. The bars have three or four bumps and can be left the same color as the body or painted black. The tube stripes are black in color and may number between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards. These can be either hand painted or decals. Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) can be hand painted or decals. Acceptable colors are black or gray. Rear traps and tears have vertical black lines.

Good news is, Last Sunday I was able to join an Armor build party and meet more of the Bloodfin crew.... great folks from what I can tell. I made good headway on the uniform parts. One of the most valuable things I learned was to save the discards. When fill is needed, place the plastic in a jar of acetone and let it melt. Then use that to sculpt the patch etc. They also tipped me on some tools to make life easier.. (I already have for tin work, but never thought of for plastic) Also they suggested some other glues in addition to the Loctite CA glue I'd been using. One is E6000 industrial strength adhesive. The other is another form of CA glue, Zap-A-Gap by pacer industries. It is a medium CA glue (not a gel) for gap filling. I also found out today what the extra part is for... It's a piece for the knee. It's a sniper knee. .. considering my choice of weapon, perhaps I should have that on instead of the other trapezoid. I do intend on getting a DLT19 as I think it will hold up to trooping better than the T20a.

This is about half painted, but I didn't do much prep work. I may never, but it's going to be an optional prop so am not worried. sorry about the resolution. this format simply won't allow more than about 9kB

Ready for adding the missing part and ready to sand on if I want.

closeup of underside loading shelf. (Note, there is a cassette in the thingverse files if you want to have this double as a Lewis gun entirely. I did not find any of the required bipods etc that was standard on the original

Well, I finally got on it in April/May. It is assembled. I assembled it and a T20 for the bf. I forgot to take photos, but looks good. There was one part missing.. the rounded thingy at the forward of the trigger assemply. In the Lewis gun, it is a selector switch. I sort of duplicated it with wood though they offered to mail me the missing part. I found an old CB channel switch knob to match the screenshot model perfectly. I painted it up and used screenshots and a live real Lewis gun a friend had in his collection to replicate painting. I painted the stock and the pistol grip plates a brown wood and the metal parts a gloss black since it is tough to replicate bluing on plastic. I added silver and gold spots where needed including the cooling fins (no photo of end result) In the near future I will be spraying and wiping patina and other damage markings on it. TO NOTE!!!!!! It has broken at three main places multiple times. I currently have it in 3 pieces yet again. This time, it is getting glued together with at least two dowel rods one connecting the stock to the trigger assembly area. The other where the cooling fins join the body. This has to be drilled to accept the reinforcement. I am uncertain if I'll use PVC pipe, or just wood dowel. With prices, PVC may be cheaper and just as sturdy. I did not sand it much so the machining lines of the 3d printer can easily be seen in several areas. I believe it will be less noticeable adding the patina. I know an fully understand it is a fault, but the gun is an optional item for the CRL, not required. Unpacked parts before dressing

Well the snow didn't happen as heavy as they said and life has happened. The parts are still waiting. I hope to get into it tomorrow... I'll at least post unwrapping photos tomorrow.

Sure will. I had to drive this week, but will likely start unwrapping all that and scratching my head about which part goes where on Thursday since we are to get snow.

Well, reporting back on my scouting .... I took a chance and ordered a DLT-20 AND a T-21 Both came, well wrapped in bubble wrap from Australia. The little packages were marked 1 and 2 for the two blasters. Here is a photo of one of the parts: I'll let you know how it goes as I put them together.. So far, so good, and I got both at less than half the price of one blaster here that I would still have to paint also. I'll let you know how it is as I progress, but right now, I'm pleased.

Well, I'll report back if and when I get them.. I did order a T21 and a DLT20 parts to make..... Good price for both.. almost to good which is making me wonder.

Yes, I believe I talked myself into it. I'll get a T-21 for me and a DLT20 for Dan..... But I'm still wondering about the 3d maker 'Bounty Hunter Armory' I'm still not getting any feedback from anyone good or bad.

Thank you. I'm used to hunting with flintlock rifles, c-fusil, and muskets... they average 9# so I can't immagine a repro would weigh any more.... good for building the muscle memory. Yea Kits here seem to be going for about the same as this website... but assembled etc of the DLT19 seems to be in the $300 range right now.. I ca't find another T21 so that does not surprise me if they are rare.... and I'm a rare breed being a woman and retired professional firefighter..... perhaps that's what I need to do. Pictures just for giggles.

I have the Shadowtrooper from "Walt's Trooper Factory", and am rather befuddled with it.. but I'll manage. I did find my boots and am making a black pauldron tonight. Meanwhile, I'm trying to decide on weaponry. I know a holster for the E11 is required.. and I have an E11 and am making a holster from the screen shots. (I'm making one for my DL44 also for the snow speeder ) However, I'm a longarm gal. I compete with flintlock muzzloading rifles, and am more interesting in the various long arms they represent in the SW franchise... quite amazing variety actually. I'm wondering as a Shadowtrooper, should I choose a DLT-19, or a T21? I know they are both in the requirement options, but which would I be happiest with? Also, where to get it: My DL44 is from 3D Cauldron, but they don't have the DLT-19 or T21, and don't have a DLT-20 either (for the Crimson Trooper my boyfriend is putting together) [ps he still hasn't found his red boots and my spray-paint the white ones I mentioned in a previous post] We did find a company called "Bounty Hunter Armory" out of Australia has all 3 in 3D printed parts........... They have kit form and assembled/finished weapons at very resonable prices.......Bounty Hunter Armory T21 Has anyone heard of them? and if so, how are the reviews? I'm finding very little. Their post of a couple 3D parts on Facebook look really good.

Thank you.