TookBreaker

Whohoo! Congratulations and welcome to the ranks. Looking really good.

Looks good to me. Did you test the belt also with the blaster in the holster? I followed this guide and it worked well for me. https://www.jollyrogers1942.com/death-trooper-build-reference.html

I am sure there are other places for belt material, but I got mine from Trooper Bay.

Looks pretty good. Great job so far. The following areas may require some adjustments from my perspective: Abdomen armor seems to be a bit too high. Based on what I saw, the belt should cover the top part of the cod piece. I think you still have some room to slide down the abdomen armor to allow the belt to cover a little of the cod piece square. Once you move it down, I am sure it fixes the back pouch touching the detonator as well. Biceps armor should move up and be under the shoulder armor. The pouch on the back has to move more to the right. May the 4th be with you!

From the first look, here is what I suggest: Shins definitely should move lower. Also, I would highly recommend to try the shins with the rectangular panels on the shoes as they will consume some space too. This will help with getting the shin closures right. Loops on the sleeves end are a great idea and will allow to keep the sleeves straight. Pants, you can add loops, but usually I used my socks to keep it all straight. For the shins, I would suggest to use black velcro to close.

@MKE-Trooper, here is what I used: For Tamiya color, I would definitely recommend to use this, as it just looks best in my opinion. As it relates to the black paint, I used for all black Rust-Oleum 7578838 Professional High Performance Enamel Spray Paint, Flat Black, the gloss came through the use SprayMax 2K High Gloss Finish Clear Coat Spray Paint.

Yes, I got my rubber bands from Paul, who has a set for it: https://www.facebook.com/totalgrunt/

Per CRL, the back overlaps - either the front or a piece that is under both parts: https://databank.501st.com/databank/File:Tx_imperial_death_trooper_chest.png Regarding JB Weld, I recommend a black plastic weld, makes it easier to blend in with the black paint.

I would recommend JB Weld. Definitely will hold it together. E6000 is not strong enough.

You can definitely use the dremel cutting. I did that too. For sanding, you can use any grit that you need. Depends on what excess you try to remove. i would highly recommend to wear gloves and masks. Fiber is too dangerous.

@MKE-Trooper - The shins should not go over the whole knee, otherwise you cannot walk. Mid-way knee cap should be fine. As it relates to closing the shins and having them over the boots, I had to remove excess suit (it has to fit snug) and I removed even the foam padding of the shoe tongue. Otherwise, mine would not close either.

I think we all can understand your excitement. I am sure I speak for all of us as we also smiled and still smile. It is a great costume, it has its journey, but once you are done, you will be super proud. Looking good!

I have the same issue with the helmet pressing on the nose. I installed padding and am trying Nasal Pads for CPAP Mask as additional padding, but once you start sweating, they come off. I was against bumping up the helmet ratio to keep body armor and helmet symmetrical. If you find a better solution, let us know.

I used elastic straps for those to ensure some mobility.

As it relates to the wrist straps, you can use vacuum replacement belts. I used it for mine and works perfect. Here is the one I used: https://a.co/d/6EjzSBW.