deek

ok last post i did somthing wrong i lost the bicep pics and threw in an extra shin so ill try put up bicip shots againshot with the small velcro gap on left side,and sorry about small pics, this is the sealed edge i was wondering if i would have to sand

So more or less i got my forarms about as close as i can get them for now. Here is a look at a Bicep that has been clamshelled on inner ans velcro on outer There is a gap of about a quarter inch but i think it looks worse in the pic than it really is. Here is a pic of the sealed edge, i am trying to clean up the last lil bit of glue but am i going to have to sand it after to make it look shiny, i am worried i am scratching the finish with my knife i have also started trying to size the calf section of the legs and i am not clear on if i should trim bot side so the seem is perfecty down the middle, i put some blue tape on to show middle on the tapes rite edgefrom the top of the knee down it makes a bit T, so should i split the T or can i leave it overlapping brining the left half over till its flush with the other sides egsge as marked by this tape right edge And the same question in the back can the overlap be offcenter or must i trim it to go straight up the middle, heres the fit no trim So fari have tried walking around with the calves just taped together and i had to remove some of the return edges for comfort but i think it might be best to not trim any further till my boots arriveThis next one is of me trying to show the back while open, it looks like it stresses the plastic quite a bit, should i be using E6000 instead of ABS glue? is there a trick here to the back of the shins?

are the return edges really needed? i am over 6 ft and 220 and this AM seems to be just big enough, i look through other build threads and people seem to always be making there am smaller. i have the forarms clamshelled with abs glue on inner seem and velcro on outer where it will be less likely to be see but i am afraid that if i take return edge off wrist the gap it will be way to large, as it is the gap i can just get my pinky in when shut, afd the forarm is nicely snug it seems to just sit in place as is the upper could really be any tighter. Also i glued the wroung seem on a bicep but got it apart before abs glue set should i sand it off of go get Goof off and try to clean it?

i just cut an old cd in the diameter needed for the hole and when you have it cut just with your finger you will be able to split the disc in half( cds are two discs squished together with a shiny inner layer), this took a few trys as the inner layer would come off uneven on the discs blocking the view of the sticker, but after a cd or two i got a good disc and is has irradensent shine but still see through quality

So my kit has arrived in the post. So much anticipation, it took almost 2 weeks to clear customs and everyday was longer than the last, and then like a ray of sunshine that crossed the deepest depths of space and time. This is the chronicle of all that followed, possibly good times and bad, cus this looks really hard. So i guess do or do not there is no try rite. Here is all the pieces laid out, so shiny and so many pieces and heres my work area, i have sand paper 150 200 and 600, sanding blocks rough medium and fine there was the novus that came with the kit for fine scratches, a well as electrical tape, painters tape, and Gorilla tape. theres Weld on an ABS glue that came with kit, low temp glue gun and sticks, tin snips and assorteted clamps,box cutter and e6000 and regular scissors not shown i pic for tools is my dremel 8200, a small vacuum for the mess, moldelers scalpel, i went out and go a roll of 2 inch industrial velcro even though y kit came with velcro and straps for holding up suit, i plan to upgrade to a snap system for this build, and of course some rulers for measuring This pic above is my forarm piece where i am starting the project, i took off 25mm off the edge of the inner piece of the forarm, i have read in other threads to angle this cut which i didnt and i hope in came out ok, i am assuming to angle the cut it would be wider at the elbow and thinner at the wrist but i dont know. So i then measured about a billion time and laid down painters tape as a guide then i cut with the tin snips which i found very easy but very nerve racking at the same time as i am going off just what i see online as a guide the little booklet that comes with kit is ok, im sure youd get it together whith just that but i suggest other newbys read as many other build threads as possible I am also finding that documenting the build expirience is also really fun!And so here is the first cut done, as you can see i took of 25mm all the way down the inner forarm i cut the othe side the of the inner forarm th same and then put the two halves inner and outer together, and use the gorrilla tape to hold them here is the left forarm and you may notice i still have the painters tape on it is a good fit fo me with enough room for a thin sweeter underneath if need be, heres a bottom shot i tried to show in this pic th ammount of space at the wrist, i had read that i should have had gloves on to try this fit but i havent got them yet, and am not really sure where exactly to go to get them, any help here would be great Also with the pic above i am not sure if i should be sanding the little roll over edge off at the wrist or if i am supposed to leave it the to give the apperence of thickness?heres anothor shot looking through the forarm and ya i need to know if i should be taking the edges down so that they are flat of leave them rounded to make the armour appear thicker when worn heres another look at the wrist, i sanded the edges lightly because they were sharp fro the factory and here is a look from the elbow down, do these pieces match up closely enough or should i keep sanding? i amlost forgot i put a small piece of industrial velcro on the left edge of the forarm you can notice the gap is a lttle greater on the left side, i think that it is going to be ok because it is the side less likely to be seen, i had planned on abs glueing the right side of the halves( inner forarm ) and am just scared of the glue because it melts the pieces together as i understand and i also have only a few clamps and i dont want to put to much pressure on plastic.well thats how far i am so far, kinda scared to move on until i get some feedback, please add any tips and let me know if i am on the rite track, thank you

Alright so here are the pics of the repainted blaster. You can see i also dremmeled out the piece just below scope to try make it look a lil more real This is th sie with no holes or exhaust ports and you can see i still need to silver paint the piece rite in the middle hers one with my new am kit in the background, but thats another story, and as you can see i still need to find 2 black wires to run from the counter to the power thingys, any suggestions please do tell! heres one of the eye piece of the scope with the piece of cd in it to give it a really cool efect, i tried to capture the coolness on the camera but this was the best i could do but i really does look good when it moves back and forth so the painting was difficult but i would suggest talking to someone in a paint department and test the spray out on a few things first, also remember if it does look good on the first coat dont worry the second will touch up spots so i used e6000 on mine and as you might notice the seems are a lil messy, i tried to clean them up with a modelers scalpul thingy and hoped paint would cover my clumsyness and i think it came out ok for a first try i really love this blaster i spend quite a bit of time admiring it and trying to remember my blaster when i was a kid, it had a dial and i made a couple different blaster sounds and i wish i could upgrade sound in this there are kit out there but then my am kit arrive and i have to wait. hope you enjoyed

So now i have got pics! first lets begin with the doopydoos box all the way from the uk i love the Royal Mail gold sticker. Then the kit itself so the parts at the top of pic go on the scope,and the rest is pretty easy to figure out i tried to lay it out as it would sit on the blaster. then i opened the blaster, very difficult but worth the effort, getting the round piece off the scope with a tiny phillips head sucked but lil by lil it came off as you can see once i had it open i took out the red plastic bits that were visible through the holes, possibly not neccisary bt it made me feel good, also i shaved the trigger down from factory to try make it appear more real. Then i cut the scope end off for all my cutting i used my dremmel, as well as sanding and shaping.Of course the orange tip had to go too! then i carefullly cut off one of the fin thingys, and if you are NEWBY LIKE ME DONT CUT THE FIN IN NEXT PIC,i had already done so on other side and just took pic for demonstration And after a lot of work and patientce here are the new holes Then i began working on putting some hex bolts from foam depot in the nose cap, i had to grind the resin down to get the heads to proper depth, and i have seen in other chronicles people cutting the threaded ends off but i drille hole very very very carfully and threaded them in, on the end looking at them they look great but from the side the side doesnt quite match what the resin has but it so cool to have done in anyways heres a straight on look Back to the round piece the holds back of scope i removed to open blaster, i will put it back on later with the center bored out to a small lip an i cut a cd into a small disc( then split the disc in half) to go inside scope hole and the cd give a really cool glimmery shine and the sticker is behind that, you see in the finished pics Then the trouble began i ran out and painted it gloss black and i think my paint problems came because i was spraying so close and so heavy on the unwashed parts, sorry there no pics without paint i got excited and forgot to take them and so i sanded and sanded and sanded but here are the pics while sanding and i will go take finished pics with the flat black now and ost in a bit

i cant figure out how to get my pics uploaded to show, ive tried clicking and dragging pics onto text box but they come out huge

so i am working on an hasbro blaster i picked up while waiting for my am kit to clear customs. My dippydoos kit also arrived and i have succesfully used E6000 to put it all together. Now i jumped the gun,lol, and forgot to go get primer and ran out to the garage and used a black gloss spray paint and most of the unit looks great, also i didnt read instruction fro dippydoos and didnt properly wash the conversion kit(oops, i was a lil excited) and i have a few spots where the paint has big runs of paint that has dried and a few spots with small bubbles, and a couple of spots where the paint didnt sstick to the resin parts. So i am a nooby and i dont know what to do. should i use a fine sand paper and clear affected areas and the attempt to paint again? is their and specific spray paint that work better with the plastic and resin parts? i have been taking photos and will chronicle soon.