RaiderNick

for the shoulder bells I have a strap running across my chest from bell to bell. It keeps them from rotating back which seems the be the only way they want to move.

He is they are the same guy.

I personally like the all black look except the frown and eyes. My frown and eyes are both silver but all the traps are unpainted and left black. However if you do choose to make them grey paint it, that always looks better than decals. ATA buckets are very easy to build just make sure you don't overy-trim anything. Trim everything a little bit at a time until it looks right.

They also use pvc and hdpe. I'm not sure anyone but rs uses those. As for not posting armor makers names, that's a little ridiculous considering the fisd has them in a post for public viewing and ours are all the same as theirs I don't think that really applies to this detachment.

I get called vader at every troop and sometimes while the actual vader is standing right next to me too...

This is a great suggestion, I would recommend it over abs. I got this exact same patent leather belt and it looks great and it's not stiff like an abs belt would be

He's a stalker we all know this, follows me around...

what are YOU doing here?!

ATA: ATAworks@yahoo.com AM: troopergear@gmail.com and tupperwaretk@yahoo.com Ok the auction says it's an AM kit, and I can say 100% for sure that by looking at it that it IS an AM kit. However, I don't know if its a legion member selling it or some random person selling recast kits under the AM name. However, if you got that kit/AM kit you would need to replace the helmet anyway. ATA is more accurate and better priced, plus you can use the helmet. I would recommend you contact them.

listing is removed, but stay away from ebay anyway.

Like several people have said(including me), it is recast and some of the parts look like they are "bowing" in. Besides that, if it is all fiberglass, it's a terrible buy simply because of that. Fiberglass isn't flexible and will chip and crack over time. I would stay away from it as for that price you can get an ata kit or am(sans the helmet).

That's why I said he shouldn't get it. The actual pieces look like fiberglass. That makes trimming it extremely difficult. It'll chip and crack over time, also it has no return edges at all...

I can't believe nobody else chimed in here. This kit is definitely recast fx. It looks EXTREMELY thin and flimsy and the details are soft. Even though it is so cheap, I don't think the price makes up for it's quality. I don't think it's going to hold up and in the long run you may not be happy with it. I would advise against it.

The ab buttons are the correct size. The placement of the holster is a little far back, but there's no much you can do with it without overlapping the belt over it which you shouldn't do. As for the back, you already know whats wrong with that. I still think the shins are too loose on the bottoms, try to tighten them up a bit. As for the "taking a dump" thing you got going...maybe you are just a scaredy trooper?

The biceps are riding a bit too high, try to get them closer to your elbows. Also, the belt seems to be flaring a lot, you might want to try to form it better to yourself. As for the helmet, I know FX buckets aren't approved anymore and I think I heard somewhere recently that AM buckets aren't anymore either, especially considering there are better alternatives for people with large heads. My GML doesn't approve AM/FX buckets at all anymore so even if the legion does allow the AM I couldn't use it.

What he said. For instance, if you are butt-joining, use the abs weld on the inside shim and e6000 on the outside cover strip. This keeps the structural integrity inside but allows the outside to have a nice clean look.

Looks good. You might want to use a heat gun to reshape the shoulder bells and biceps as the AM ones are a little too "square".

Those are the right pieces. Technically there's only supposed to be the thumbprint on one side, but on the AM its on both.

If you haven't done too much work yet I would suggest that you butt-join it instead of using the overlaps. It looks better as a finished product. If it's too late at the very least you should butt-join the shins since the AM shins are backwards and that's the only real way to remedy it.

If at all possible use butt joins where ever you can. They look better overall. You.should be able to butt join most parts except maybe the shins as they are already fairly tight.

The Bass Amsterdams are less than ideal. I just replaced mine with shires woodstock jodphurs. They are higher and don't require a combination of snaps and velcro just to keep them from popping out. If you can still return the amsterdams you would be better off with the other boots.

That actually still happens to me because I have no neck! If I wear a pauldron the helmet is leaning on it and I can't look up or down lol.

I have a 24" head and I have padding inside mine and a mic no problem. However, the fans I put it make it a little tight getting on and off.

If he butts joins it it won't be a problem because you have to cut off the entire overlap anyway, or at least that's what I did. Then when I did the butt join, I glued the shim to the correct side.

Yes butt joining is much better, especially if you are thinner. I was able to completely trim off the overlaps and but join the inside and outside of the armor. It can bend quite a bit and nothing has ever come apart or cracked.