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n00b starting to Piece armor together


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You'll send your approval pics to your GML for your garrison. You can get that info off of your garrison boards. If you're not sure which garrison you're in, then we can help out there too. The kit is looking great! You shouldn't worry about fitting issues so much. You want to take pics and get approved. You're nearly there. As far as fitting.... you'll be making mods to this kit for years to come. You'll always find something that needs trimmed just a bit more. A strap that needs a snap replaced and so on. Most of us are still modding our kids even after years of trooping. I know I still do. As you can see, we're always here for help with any questions you may have. = )

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LOL thanks guys... Yeah a little showing off, but had to get your guys input to make sure it was good. I am soo proud of my suit, I have never really done anything like this, and thank my good buddy nodoner for getting me started. AS far as submission pics, I will submit to my SOCAL garrison and go from there. I have more pics, as my wife took some with better pics, but I will wait, I have been posting to many pics. :P

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  • 4 weeks later...

I think you look fantastic. I think it should be approved as it stands. I have three suggestions that will help your armor be the best it can be:

 

1. The ribbed shoulder straps seem to not be fully secured on the chest plate. This could be because of the angle of the AM chest where you have it attached. Maybe some of the guys with AM armor can chime-in here about that. If you can't get the straps to sit flat on t he chest armor in that position, maybe try cutting the back rectangles off the backs of the straps and position the front of the straps a tad higher-up where they sit flat.

 

2. The back plate should have no to minimal overlap with the kidney plate. Should you shorten the canvas shoulders straps between the chest and back just a bit, you would achieve this pretty easily. This could work well in conjunction with suggestion number one.

 

3. While the canvas belt is acceptable, gloss black is preferred for TX. A lot of folks use ABS for this. I use a vinyl ladie's belt that I scored from Ebay.

 

Keep in mind that these are merely suggestions. I think you should be approved as is and should be proud!

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3. While the canvas belt is acceptable, gloss black is preferred for TX. A lot of folks use ABS for this. I use a vinyl ladie's belt that I scored from Ebay.

 

 

This is a great suggestion, I would recommend it over abs. I got this exact same patent leather belt and it looks great and it's not stiff like an abs belt would be

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I think you look fantastic. I think it should be approved as it stands. I have three suggestions that will help your armor be the best it can be:

 

1. The ribbed shoulder straps seem to not be fully secured on the chest plate. This could be because of the angle of the AM chest where you have it attached. Maybe some of the guys with AM armor can chime-in here about that. If you can't get the straps to sit flat on t he chest armor in that position, maybe try cutting the back rectangles off the backs of the straps and position the front of the straps a tad higher-up where they sit flat.

 

2. The back plate should have no to minimal overlap with the kidney plate. Should you shorten the canvas shoulders straps between the chest and back just a bit, you would achieve this pretty easily. This could work well in conjunction with suggestion number one.

 

3. While the canvas belt is acceptable, gloss black is preferred for TX. A lot of folks use ABS for this. I use a vinyl ladie's belt that I scored from Ebay.

 

Keep in mind that these are merely suggestions. I think you should be approved as is and should be proud!

Toddo thanks for the great advice. I will be checking on this now. What I did was used a small black Zip Tie to hold the back in place. I to did not like the way it sat, but thought the "Float" in the description is what the meant (as to ok the looseness look of it). I wanted to just Glue it on, but thought that may be frowned apon. I then thought of rounding off the corneres to "Eat away" at the extra, but Im not sure if that was ok. The good news is that its NOT glued and can be adjusted of needed. I am hoping for another armor party and have some of the real pros, help me maybe redo the back. (I sort of left a lil extra) in case that happend. :P

 

 

 

This is a great suggestion, I would recommend it over abs. I got this exact same patent leather belt and it looks great and it's stiff like an abs belt would be

Man I just submitted.... but I will check the bay and start to look for this. I was not totally happy with how I made the first belt anyways, so this may be a good reason to get a new one.

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I thought I should clarify what I'm talking about. DSC_0232_zpsbb81b699.jpg

I'm not sure if the straps are glued down or if they are secured with velcro. If it's velcro, then use some E6000 and clamp those rascals down.

 

If you wanted to shorten the distance between the chest and back at the shoulder, I was suggesting that you cut off the back rectangle from each of the ribbed strap. Here's an example from Acima's FISD Centurion submission that illustrates what I'm talking about: 20120211_1910591.jpg

 

As for the zip ties holding down the straps, that's clever. ANH screen used costumes accomplished the same thing using thin elastic (see Acima's photo again). You could use black elastic to keep yours down and be super-accurate. I personally prefer mine free-floating during troops.

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aghh I see.. Yah the fronts are glued using e6000... and now with the other reference pic, I can cut of the excess in the back too. Great stuff. thanks Brotha!

 

BTW - I added the item to my watch list. I will be getting one soon :thumbsup:

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aghh I see.. Yah the fronts are glued using e6000... and now with the other reference pic, I can cut of the excess in the back too. Great stuff. thanks Brotha!

 

BTW - I added the item to my watch list. I will be getting one soon :thumbsup:

 

unlike the traditional TK belt, these aren't long enough to mount all t he way around. You'll have to cut the belt into two sections and E6000 them to the belt edges. It works great and it is nice and strong. You won't have any belt sag if you ever have a heavier blaster either.

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My chest/back parts are done similar to Todd's suggestion. This mirrors my TK setup and is the preferred method at FISD. But, I used Gorrilla Glue to secure the straps on the front. I've found that E6000 is awesome for most things, but will come undone in extreme heat. It gets too hot here in Texas. ;)

 

tx-shoulder.jpg

 

IMG_3583b.jpg

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