ELP's Quick and Dirty Holster Build

[ELP[501st]]

VERY PIC HEAVY - Sorry.

 

Also I'm going to edit / add to the initial post so troopers don't need to scroll through posts to find my next step.

 

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Hi All,

 

 

I've never done this before but I thought I'd share either my sewing triumph or proof that I need to be a bit more patient. Cause frankly I've gotta do something while the E6000 on my TX fully cures.

 

For this attempt I'm going to follow the pattern without changing or adding anything. I'll probably make a few suggestions at the end as I'm thinking the addition of sewn in ABS straps would add some extra rigidity ... but we'll see.

 

All alterations from the plan will be listed here, and in the corresponding step.

 

Fixes / Adjustments:

 

Step 5.3: Shows the back of the blaster holster for a Hasbro Mod should be about an inch longer.

Step 6.1: Extended the belt attachemnt straps from 4 to 10.5 inches.

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1st Step:

Download Troopermaster's (thanks for this where-ever you are) holster Blue Prints (there are links to them on "The RPF" board):

 

page 1): page 1

page 2): page 2

 

 

2nd Step:

Read control info regarding Holster " HOLSTER: made of black leather or leather like material, worn on the left ".

Note: Worn on left is very important as it will determine how the Vinyl is put together. See later on (Step 4.4: Test Fit).

 

I bought material ($14 / yard - enough for ~4 - 5 holsters or 4 - 5 big mistakes). There was about 7 types of black vinyl to choose from but I settled on one with a medium shiny appearance, and a simulated leather finish:

 

 

3rd Step:

Transfer the Blue Prints. My wife said "it's called a pattern", I said "it's Star Wars ... It's a Blue Print". The key here is to make sure your "blue print" starts with a 90 degree corner. This will ensure your drawing will be squaire.

 

Now you'll notice these lines don't exactly match the 'blue print'. That's because I want all black vinyl on every outer surface - even if people won't see it. So the two bits get sandwiched together and then the holster will get built. Look at the lower pictures ... It'll make sense I promise.

 

Total Time: 40 Minutes.

 

 

 

Next Step: Cutting, Sewing and Swearing.

 

 

4th Step:

Cutting.

 

This was as easy as it sounds. Just cut out the "Blue Print".

 

4.1: Trimmed

I trimmed off the outside area leaving only the rectangle of fabris I will use.

 

 

4.2: Split and more trimming

I cut the piece in half and then trimmed out the inner cut.

 

 

4.3: Sandwich Test

 

I've put the Vinyl 'sandwich' together to show how the two parts will go together. Also here I'm going to trace one half of my Vinyl Sandwich to use as a template should I make more of these down the line (much easier to trace a form then create the blue print from scratch.)

 

4.4: Test Fit

 

My personal preference is for the scope to be worn forward, my mag holder to face out and the fold in the material of the holster to be forward; so as the holster is to be worn on the left my mock up looks like the above. What's the difference? Have a look at the control pics for the BlackHole and you'll see the holster is on the left but the scope faces the back, and the mag is either pointed inward, or it has been removed for the pics. Again just a personal preference.

 

Everything fits, it needs a trim in a few areas, but we're good to keep going.

 

 

Total Time: 45 Minutes.

 

 

Next Step: Sewing ... Oh boy.

 

 

5th Step:

Sewing

 

This wasn't to bad actually. And it was pretty quick.

 

 

5.1: Vinyl Sandwich

Both sides were sewn together and then the little bit of trimming needed, as noted in step 4.4, was done. You'll notice that every edge here was sewn.

 

There seems to be a bit of extra fabric (holster doesn't lay perfectly flat)but I'm ok with that.

 

 

5.2: The Fold

The piece was folder over and sewn along a portion of one edge to create the actual holster. The bottom is left open.

 

So far so good ... I hope the blaster fits.

 

 

5.3: Test Fit

The blaster fits, but it looks like the back needs to be about an inch longer. I'll make a note of that.

 

 

Now to cut and add the strapping to attach to the holster to the belt and another to keep the E-11 securely in the holster.

 

 

Total Time: 1 hour 10 minutes

 

 

6th Step:

Rivets, a snap and straps.

 

This was all pretty straight forward. I needed to attach 3 rivets: 2 on the top of the holster for belt attachments, and one to secure the "safety strap" to the back of the holster. I also needed to put a snap on - Female end on the holster and male end on the safety strap.

 

6.1: Strapping

 

I made 3 straps. 2 for looping over the belt and 1 for keeping the gun in the holster. I adjusted the length of the holster / belt straps as I wanted to loop the holster over the belt. The "blue print" calls for 4" straps - I made 10.5 inch straps. The other I left at the original length.

 

 

6.2: Hole Punch

I punched 3 holes for rivets. Two in either upper corner and one for the safety strap to attach to. Here is an example of one:

 

 

6.3: Riveting

I put in the top 2 rivets with a piece of ABS on the back of the holster for more rigidity. You can see in the picture the order of the parts used. The washers are exactly that, only specifically for attaching rivets to softer material.

 

 

6.4: Attachment Locations

Here are the locations of the snaps and the rivets with everything attached.

 

 

 

7th Step:

All Done.

 

I've still got to colour the backing of the vinyl but aside from that “ C'est Fini†! Iz, thanks for the suggestion about spray paint, but my wife has said "Don't you dare paint the oven again" so I'm using a "Sharpie" marker - permanent, non-toxic, flat black, and best of all it will only leave tiny marks on the oven.

 

Total cost of materials = $6 (Vinyl =$5, Snaps, Rivets and washers = $1)

 

Total Time = 1 1/2 hours.

 

Special Equipment Used(already had) = Sewing Machine with Vinyl Needle, Rivet Gun, Black Sharpie, Fabric Cutting Board & Wheel and Beers.

 

 

Final Thoughts:

Not bad, overall I think it's a bit small. It fit's my Hasbro Mod E-11 but the scale seems a bit off, especially when compared to my wife's big sturdy leather holster (from Anrev on the FISD boards - It's Really Nice, but costly in comparison)... My wife chuckled and asked "Does that mean you've got a case of Holster Envy? Are you going to make jokes about the size of my holster and then say that 'you're fine with yours and wouldn't know what to do with that much holster anyway', or maybe 'It's not the size of the holster but how you wear it'. " Ahhhh, good times.

 

I'd never done this before but I'm sold on doing this again. It's dead easy. And I did this post as I went. I didn't take pictures and then put everything together afterward.

 

 

Any comments or suggestions are welcome.

 

 

Addendum: After finishing I looked around on the FISD and found this tutorial: Leather Holster . It uses an updated version of the Troopermaster "Blue Print" and real leather. Another good source of info.

 

 

Happy Trooping.

[bscheff[501st]]

For decorative purposes it shouldn't matter but would the scope in or out be based on whether you were right or left handed? If I was left handed I would wear it as you show in the picture, so my dominant hand (left) can grab the blaster easy. And if I was right handed, I would wear it with butt/handle facing forward so when I reach across my body I can pull it out and fire faster? Might explain why it is shown both ways?

 

Just a guess. Someone more familiar with sidearms would probably know.

 

Your holster looks great so far! I can't wait to see more pictures.

[ELP[501st]]

For decorative purposes it shouldn't matter but would the scope in or out be based on whether you were right or left handed? If I was left handed I would wear it as you show in the picture, so my dominant hand (left) can grab the blaster easy. And if I was right handed, I would wear it with butt/handle facing forward so when I reach across my body I can pull it out and fire faster? Might explain why it is shown both ways?

 

Just a guess. Someone more familiar with sidearms would probably know.

 

Your holster looks great so far! I can't wait to see more pictures.

 

I totally agree the scope dirrection shouldn't matter for decorative reasons but, for me, aside from "the look" it's also the mag holder on the e-11. If the scope faces backward the mag holder faces inward (towards the trooper) and bumps the thigh - scope forward eliminates that. And between you and me I don't think my blaster is rugged enough to handle being bounced around ... That's why you'll never read an ELP blaster tutorial.

[izzi[TX]]

When working with vinyl, for discounts always check a section of left over materials. I forget what it's called, but it's like a scraps or off the roll section. Sometimes you can find enough discounted material that won't break the wallet.

 

Also, you can spray the back of the vinyl with black enamel spray pant. The helps you hide the white edging when you sew it together.

 

I like the tutorial. You saved me a lot of time on my next holster.

 

-iz

[Wraith[TX]]

It's usually called the clearance section iz , and yeah always check there if you need smaller amounts of fabric for anything as it's way way cheaper.. especially for end of bolt and miss-cut pieces

 

Awesome holster ELP, I'll be using this thread and pattern as a reference when I come to make my hubby's holster, thanks

[bscheff[501st]]

Turned out really nice ELP. Grats.

[Scootch[TX]]

Nice work!

[TX Bondservnt[501st]]

anyone needs a leather custom holster, can PM me.

[ELP[501st]]

anyone needs a leather custom holster, can PM me.

 

Hey, that's Awesome.

 

Just a thought, would you also post in the "For Sale" area as I'm sure with the recent run of AM kits there are going to be a lot of new TX troopers looking for something to sling their weapon around in, and they may not know to look in here.