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Well, here we go!


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That's pretty much what I was considering. But the more I think about it, I'll probably do this all on my next build. I want to have one in good order first. Then I'll experiment with another, maybe a pipe build.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok, so I am done with my trimming and sanding. Ready for fitting and assembly real soon. But my question is do I want to paint before I start gluing or after? It seems to be like it would be more logical to paint before I glue and do all the strapping.

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Paint after glue. That way, any mistakes you make while glueing will be covered by the paint.

 

- Master Tej -

 

I have considered that, but what if I do repairs in the future or upgrade/modify? There would be unpainted spots in the armor and I would have to repaint the whole piece and possibly everything to keep the color matched. Even using the same paint and repainting doesn't always look alike, that is what I am worried about.

 

To clarify, my armor kit came to me in white.

 

Aaron

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  • 3 weeks later...

When you assemble your armor, keep in mind about heat. I have come across the problem of my armor heating up too much in the sun and then breaking the seals with E6000. I switched to CA glue from Hobby Town and haven't had a problem since.

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Awesome to hear Aaron !!!!! Are you gonna do base coat black, then clear coat ????

As said before, air temp plays a big roll in the final finish. If its too cold, you'll have paint running on the floor. If its too hot, the paint will be coming out of the can like cob webs. If its raining, those of us that paint, know that the paint might blush, or look foggy. Definitely go by the manufacturers specs depending on what paint you use and make sure the temp is correct, air and product. Generally between 60-75. Hope this helps bro. :thumbsup:

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I will be wet sanding, priming with a black, gloss black paint, and then priming. Probably severe at least 2 coats of each. I'm going to have to figure something out for temperature wise though. It's getting too cold outside too quick. I may have to set up a make shift booth in my basement.

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For what it's worth I like to use Plastruct Plastic Weld on my plastic parts. It works really well on ABS and I also use it on styrene. I try to stay away from the cyanoacrylate glue because they can gas off and cause fogging. I started to use it on my black armor and it started to mark it. Keep in mind that the Plastic Weld makes a pretty permanent bond, it melts the plastic together.

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  • 4 months later...

I was planning to use CA on the armor. I have not heard of gassing but it makes sense. I have other glues to use just in case. I am just about read to glue too! Work has been very busy and not much time left to work on my armor.

 

Anyway, CRL related question. The "reference" pics from the video game show the sniper plate painted and going all the way around. But no one else seems to be doing that when doing their costume. What's up with that?

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You are right about the reference. That is how it should be done. My Novas have the sniper plate painted as well as the ridge all the way around.

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  • 1 year later...

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