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Xan's ArmoryShop DT Build


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Greetings programs!

I just got my BBB from Denis on Monday, and I'm super impressed!

I have some concerns about the lenses that came with the Mk4 bucket though. Clearly you can see my eyes really well.  Anyone ever have a problem with your GML on these getting approved? Maybe it's because I don't have my balaclava on. Will test that tonite.

Received:

  • Fully ready DT armor kit (Armory Shop)
  • Undersuit (Armory Shop)
  • Mk4 Bucket (Armory Shop)
  • Boots (Doc Martin Talibs)
  • Gloves (Ordered from EndorFinders)

Still Need to Get:

  • x2 Wrist Bands
  • Soft Goods & Miscellanious (belt silver front plate, leather pouches, leather holster)
  • Helmet Fans (Thinking of going with Ukswrath setup)

If anyone can point me to the best type of strapping system or style, that'd be awesome.

Hoping to have this done by mid-December!  Wish me luck! :D

lol.jpg

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13 hours ago, Chaos said:

This might give you some ideas about the strapping http://imgur.com/a/7GT4R

Funny enough, I saved that imgur link a couple days ago!

Is elastic strapping preferred over regular nylon ones?

Also, the square/rectangle tabs that secure to the backsides of the plates, those are just stuck on with like E6000?

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14 hours ago, Chaos said:

If you're getting Tony's fan system you might as well get his helmet audio system as well.

O728iCg.jpg

 

The helmet audio system is something that can be upgraded to over time, yes?  There's no liners or anything that necessitates those components going in first?

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I prefer elastic as it allows the armor pieces to move with me. As far as glue, I was in Hawaii, E6000 has a tendency, when heated, to loose it's adhesion. I use a plastic weld epoxy. Has been over 2 years without ever coming apart.

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2 minutes ago, Xanthais said:

The helmet audio system is something that can be upgraded to over time, yes?  There's no liners or anything that necessitates those components going in first?

Yes you can put the audio system in at anytime. I put it in last so I could make sure of placement.

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Just got back from vacation in Tahoe, and found my gloves had arrived while I was gone.

Going to spend this weekend strapping and snapping hopefully!

Are there brands and types/sizes of snaps to get? Tandy? Line 20 or 24? What's the difference in snap lines?

I had forgotten I got this set when I was going for my TK build. Will these work for DT as well I assume?

https://trooperbay.com/line-24-ez-snap-tabs-and-elastic-straps-set

Thanks!

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1 hour ago, Xanthais said:

Just got back from vacation in Tahoe, and found my gloves had arrived while I was gone.

Going to spend this weekend strapping and snapping hopefully!

Are there brands and types/sizes of snaps to get? Tandy? Line 20 or 24? What's the difference in snap lines?

I had forgotten I got this set when I was going for my TK build. Will these work for DT as well I assume?

https://trooperbay.com/line-24-ez-snap-tabs-and-elastic-straps-set

Thanks!

You could probably use that kit from Trooperbay but I would highly recommend using a two snap system instead, that is to say two snaps per side of your nylon or elastic. A LOT of unexpected stuff will happen when you troop and a double snap system will prevent armor failures when someone bumps into you or a little kid pulls on a piece of your armor. A single snap system like the one from Trooperbay would be adequate for your shoulder bell to bicep connection though.
I would go with Tandy Line 24 snaps. They are very durable and very reliable when they are set correctly. I have never had a snap pull loose without a lot of effort.

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2 minutes ago, Devolver said:

You could probably use that kit from Trooperbay but I would highly recommend using a two snap system instead, that is to say two snaps per side of your nylon or elastic. A LOT of unexpected stuff will happen when you troop and a double snap system will prevent armor failures when someone bumps into you or a little kid pulls on a piece of your armor. A single snap system like the one from Trooperbay would be adequate for your shoulder bell to bicep connection though.
I would go with Tandy Line 24 snaps. They are very durable and very reliable when they are set correctly. I have never had a snap pull loose without a lot of effort.

When you say "two-snap system", do you mean:

A: Two snaps set side-by-side in a single piece of nylon/elastic?

B: Two separate straps each with their own single snap?

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Just now, Xanthais said:

When you say "two-snap system", do you mean:

A: Two snaps set side-by-side in a single piece of nylon/elastic?

B: Two separate straps each with their own single snap?

Option A. I swear by it. It's better to be safe than sorry on a troop!

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2 minutes ago, Devolver said:

Like so:
fsqb1a.jpg

Nylon folded over itself for extra thickness and durability at the points where the snap is set.

That's what I was picturing in my head, thanks!

Somewhat separate question.

Does the bottom of the rear kidney sit flush with the top of the rear-plate? Does it go under the rear-plate? Does it matter? The belt goes over where the joint/seam between the two is anyways, but just wanted to make sure.

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To my knowledge, it should sit flush.
Here are a couple of photos from the Celebration screen used suit. There's not a lot of close up reference of the armor at these plates. It's hard to see, but I have circled the area:
ecsutU.jpg

gW8Fn7.jpg

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18 minutes ago, Xanthais said:

@Devolver Are those 2" nylon straps you've used?

Yes, that's correct.

My suspender rig for the thighs is more complex and heavy duty than what you would probably need to make for a 3D printed kit like yours. My kit is fiberglass and needed a lot more support for durability and comfort. You should probably still use 2" for your thighs in my opinion. The only place I used 1" was the shoulder bell to bicep connection.

Edited by Devolver
clarification
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Anyone have detailed pics on how the shoulder straps from back-plate to front-chest, attach?

From what I can tell it's permanently attached to the back-plate, then brought over and secured via some means to the front. Velcro underneath the rubber and buckles? 

 

This part below is what I'm referring to. (Not my pic)

XY4GLhn.jpg

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Copied from my build thread:

It was around this time I also began to attach the external strapping, at least the snaps and/or anchors for such parts. I decided to thread the shoulder straps from Paul Prentice through the back plate and hold them to the chest with snaps that are punched through the chest plate. This actually worked very well and keeps them in place reliably.

Female line-24 snap placed through the chest plate and fiberglassed for extra support:
H5ztox.jpg 

Male line-24 snap epoxied to the back of the strap:
2fkxrx.jpg

Velcro holds the straps in place just inside the cut points:
xZsTAq.jpg 

Everything lines up and snaps together:
Jf55oh.jpg

I also want to add that I put Velcro above the snaps as well, just to keep everything lined up and also as an extra bit of contingency if the snap failed.

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On 11/1/2019 at 1:23 AM, Xanthais said:

Anyone have detailed pics on how the shoulder straps from back-plate to front-chest, attach?

From what I can tell it's permanently attached to the back-plate, then brought over and secured via some means to the front. Velcro underneath the rubber and buckles? 

 

This part below is what I'm referring to. (Not my pic)

XY4GLhn.jpg

Xanthais, that's my armor. The chest buckles are secured to the chest piece with screws. The ridged straps are epoxied to the back piece and lay over the front and are held in place with earth magnets. There is a nylon and velcro strap that runs under the shoulders to actually hold the front and back together. There are also snaps on the nylon/velcro straps that my shoulder bells attach to. There are better detailed photos in the same album where you can see the straps and magnets. https://imgur.com/a/7GT4R

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