DoggyDoc’s Jimmiroquai Imperial Death Trooper Build Thread

[DoggyDoc[CMD-DCA]]

So I assume this shows how well it bends? LOL. I love this flexible resin. 
 

 

I also printed the side straps for the chest piece. Do these look ok.  Should the polygon at the top be the way it is (lower in respect to the ridges, or should it be raised up to the same level s the closed rectangular block?

 

 

[Chaos[CMD-DCA]]

On 2/9/2023 at 5:45 AM, DoggyDoc said:

I also printed the side straps for the chest piece. Do these look ok.  Should the polygon at the top be the way it is (lower in respect to the ridges, or should it be raised up to the same level s the closed rectangular block?

 

 

Yep, that's flexible, how thick are they at the raised ridge? They look a little thin. On average they should be about 6mm thick and 45mm wide for reference.

Your side strap when placed on the armor should point forwards approximately. We have determined that there are approximately four rectangular segments on side strap and the polygon's triangular piece has the top and side corners squared off. This can be seen somewhat in the Celebration suit. I made a set that can fit around the side buckle to give it some swivel movement. if you put the top long edge of the polygon along the edge of your side piece it will give you the right forward swept angle. You are more than welcome to DM me if you would like the file I used. 1st photo is from the Hi Res Promo photos, 2nd my side buckle. 3rd the 3D files I used. The pieces are glued with the buckle in the opening so it can swivel.

 

[DoggyDoc[CMD-DCA]]

@Chaos They are a bit under the 6mm thickness, I think those were 4mm total. 
I am sending you a DM. Thanks for the advice. 

[DoggyDoc[CMD-DCA]]

I have been struggling with getting a backing for the calves so that I can extend the fibreglass to make them bigger as they don’t close around my leg.  I initially tried ABS plastic strips and heated and Mildred them to try to follow the curve along the edge of the piece but als had to have a curve around the circumference of the calf. This was very difficult and did not work.

My solution was to use fibreglass cast material and form it to the inner edge of the calf piece. Being a vet, I grabbed a couple of rolls from work and gave it a go.

to prevent damage to the armour pieces, I also wrapped the pieces in press and seal wrap which sticks to pretty much everything.

The end result gives me a 3 inch backing that I can extend out past the edge of the back of the calf to build up new fibreglass. 
 

Armour pieces wrapped for protection

Fibreglass cast strips laid down 2 layers thick with 50% overlap (4 pieces total)

Completed backing - note the continuation of the curve around the circumference and the conformity with the edge of the armour piece.

 

I also worked on the shoulder strap buckles. In order to get the loop to sit snug under the lip of the buckle, I had to file down a notch on the underside of the buckle to allow it to sit flush.  Once this was done, I glued the loop to the buckle with Zap a Gap and then filled the gap between the 2 pieces with plastic weld to further secure and reinforce the piece. 
 

 

[DoggyDoc[CMD-DCA]]

@Chaos thanks for the side strap files. They turned out awesome. 
 

 

[Chaos[CMD-DCA]]

Looking awesome!

[DoggyDoc[CMD-DCA]]

Printed some supports to attach the thermal detonator to the back plate. Do these look ok?

 

 

[Chaos[CMD-DCA]]

Those will work.

[DoggyDoc[CMD-DCA]]

Update on recent build progress:

I wasn’t happy with the look of the resin printed shoulder bridges as the printer seemed to squish the raised notches and thicken the base portion causing it to look out of proportion.  I went to the filament printer and printed them in TPU and sanded the print lines out.  I think these turned out much better. Likely will hit it with a coat of plastidip to get it shiny again after the sanding. 
 

new bridge is on the bottom

new bridge is on the left 

Photos of the shoulder bridges and side straps

 

I also primed the SE-14R blaster parts. Ready for black now 

[TookBreaker[TX]]

10 hours ago, DoggyDoc said:

Update on recent build progress:

I wasn’t happy with the look of the resin printed shoulder bridges as the printer seemed to squish the raised notches and thicken the base portion causing it to look out of proportion.  I went to the filament printer and printed them in TPU and sanded the print lines out.  I think these turned out much better. Likely will hit it with a coat of plastidip to get it shiny again after the sanding. 
 

new bridge is on the bottom

new bridge is on the left 

Photos of the shoulder bridges and side straps

 

I also primed the SE-14R blaster parts. Ready for black now 

Looks great. I do not have the options to re-print the straps, hence will work what I have now from JimT and Paul's Shoretrooper build, but my question is how did you attach the buckles to the side straps? Did you cut a portion to fit it snug?

[DoggyDoc[CMD-DCA]]

14 hours ago, TookBreaker said:

my question is how did you attach the buckles to the side straps? Did you cut a portion to fit it snug?

These strap portion is in 2 pieces with a cutout on each one to make a tube around the buckle. 
 

 

[Dexas]

Random question: I've been fixing the minor imperfections on my helmet ready for priming and painting this week, have you noticed if your is slightly off centre?

When I look at mine head on, the nose ridge (in-between the metal grill and eye slit) is slightly wonky. At first I assumed it was my dodgy eyes, but my girlfriend had a look and she can see it as well.

Its barely noticeable (and I doubt it will be visible once it's painted), but it's definitely there.

[DoggyDoc[CMD-DCA]]

9 hours ago, Dexas said:

Random question: I've been fixing the minor imperfections on my helmet ready for priming and painting this week, have you noticed if your is slightly off centre?

When I look at mine head on, the nose ridge (in-between the metal grill and eye slit) is slightly wonky. At first I assumed it was my dodgy eyes, but my girlfriend had a look and she can see it as well.

Its barely noticeable (and I doubt it will be visible once it's painted), but it's definitely there.

I don’t see what you are referring to.  Here is a photo of my helmet head on 

 

[productionsbykyle]

I know what he is talking about with the off center @Dexas  look at the bottom of your helmet and you will see it. Just got my Jim Tripon kit and saw this about all three helmets I ordered. It is kinda disheartening. 

[DoggyDoc[CMD-DCA]]

Found some time to do a bit more work on the kit today. I have been fiddling with my resin printer settings as the shoulder straps did not turn out properly. I reduced the exposure time dramatically and they came out much better. 
do you think the shape of the one on the right or the shape of the test print on the left looks better?  Ignore the blemishes on the surface and the print lines, they will be removed. 
 

 

[Chaos[CMD-DCA]]

The right looks better for the spacing between the segments

[productionsbykyle]

DoggyDoc, would you ever offer sell those files for the straps on the shoulder and below the arms?

[DoggyDoc[CMD-DCA]]

16 minutes ago, productionsbykyle said:

DoggyDoc, would you ever offer sell those files for the straps on the shoulder and below the arms?

Let me just print the updated version of the shoulder strap to make sure it works ok, then I will get you a copy of the file (no cost).  The side straps are from @Chaos.  I am sure he will help you out with them as well.

[DoggyDoc[CMD-DCA]]

Spent the day today reworking the 3D render files for the shoulder straps. Here is the new one printed and compared to the old one in the background. I think these look much better. Thanks @Chaos for sending me your original files so I could get a better idea of dimensions. 
 

 

[Chaos[CMD-DCA]]

Doc your kit is going to be "Epic"

[DoggyDoc[CMD-DCA]]

Did a bit more work today on the torso parts. I opened up the slots on the shoulder for the shoulder straps and attached the thermal detonator to the back piece. The thermal detonator is attached to the 2 supports with plastic weld and the entire assembly is held onto the back piece with 2 screws.  I embedded threaded metal sleeves into the supports to allow them to be easily removed if necessary.  
 

 

 

 

 

[TookBreaker[TX]]

12 minutes ago, DoggyDoc said:

Did a bit more work today on the torso parts. I opened up the slots on the shoulder for the shoulder straps and attached the thermal detonator to the back piece. The thermal detonator is attached to the 2 supports with plastic weld and the entire assembly is held onto the back piece with 2 screws.  I embedded threaded metal sleeves into the supports to allow them to be easily removed if necessary.  
 

 

 

 

 

Looks nice! I am getting there too! 😉 

How did you insert the metal plates into the support?

Any ideas how you plan to secure the shoulder straps in the slots? I was considering gluing magnets on the back plate and also on the strap itself. Once inserted through the slots, the magnets could keep it in place.

[DoggyDoc[CMD-DCA]]

Hey @TookBreaker, I used copper knurled embedment nuts. 
 

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B087N4LVD1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

you predrill slightly , so the sleeve sits in the hole, then use a soldering iron to heat and push the nut into the plastic. It essentially melts itself into place. 

For the shoulder straps, I am planning on plastic welding the buckles onto the chest piece, so they are secure when attaching the specialist rig.  For the straps, I am going to use E6000 to glue the front portion in place under the back end of the buckle and along the top of the chest piece.  The back portion will stay loose, then can simply be tucked into the openings in the shoulder portion of the back plate once the front and back pieces are connected together. 

[TookBreaker[TX]]

Thanks and this is helpful!

I wonder if the straps will stay in place once tucked into the openings as you move around. Therefore, I was thinking to maybe use magnets to keep them in place.

I did use JB Plastic Weld (black) to glue the triangle buckle to the main buckle as I think this is the strongest bond to have some strength in case I attach the specialist rig (did sand it down a bit to have a proper angle to glue them together).

I then used Bob Smith Maxi-Cure Extra Thick for gluing the shoulder strap and the buckle. I purposely left part of the rubbery part underneath - not only to have more adhesion surface, but also avoid scratching and squeaking once permanently attached to the chest piece (with screws - the white dot is where I will connect it).

[DoggyDoc[CMD-DCA]]

2 hours ago, TookBreaker said:

I wonder if the straps will stay in place once tucked into the openings as you move around. Therefore, I was thinking to maybe use magnets to keep them in place.

Magnets would hold them well, but I am having a hard time figuring out how you will rig them up.  The magnet would either need to be embedded in the strap and still be small enough to fit through the slot on the back piece.  Alternatively, you could glue a thin piece of metal onto the back of the strap and then mount the magnet inside of the back piece. 
 

Another option would be a piece of elastic attached to the end of the strap with a snap on it that can be snapped into the inside of the shoulder.