Wookie_Shaver's Death Trooper WIP

[wookie_shaver]

Place holder for my build. Newer to 3d printing, so after a little trial and error, I'm confident that I'm dialed and printing nicely. This is going to take a little longer than I initially expected/wanted, but I am getting much nicer print results using slower speeds.

Using MCM Death Trooper files for my build. Ordering my undersuit from Jim Tripon, gloves from Endor Finders and boots from Keep Trooping. 

The only part I'm having an issue with are the rubber wrist bands for the left forearm. I've searched numerous suppliers and they are either out-of stock or nonlonger made. I reached out to Plastic Arms Dealer to see if he has any more coming or if he would make a custom run, waiting to hear back. If anyone has any leads, it would be much appreciated.

[DoggyDoc[CMD-DCA]]

Hi Chris. 
‘Welcome to spec ops. Looking forward to seeing your build. 
 

‘’I used rubber pipe coupling to make my rubber straps. Here is the one I used. 
 

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/pro-connect-flexible-coupling-4/1000120022

 

[wookie_shaver]

That's a great idea! I did reach out to Plastic Arms Dealer to see if they were going to re-stock and luckily he had one last one that he sold me, but that's a great backup if I ever need it.

Gloves and bands ordered. Keep Trooping starts taking orders for boots again on the 17th. Printer is running 24 hours, and I'm starting on sanding/priming finished pieces.

[wookie_shaver]

Quick update for self accounting.

Gloves came in from Endor, was able to get a set of the rubber wristbands from Plastic Arms Dealer. 

All arm armor (shoulder bells, biceps, forearms and cylinders, hand guards) and cod piece printed. Moving on to the helmet now.

Using Liquitex Modeling Paste to get rid of layer lines after watching videos on it by Breanna Wright on YouTube. After applying a few light coats and sanding on a couple pieces, I have to say I am impressed. The surface comes out very smooth. Should make for some easier painting sessions.

[Mal86]

9 hours ago, wookie_shaver said:

Quick update for self accounting.

Gloves came in from Endor, was able to get a set of the rubber wristbands from Plastic Arms Dealer. 

All arm armor (shoulder bells, biceps, forearms and cylinders, hand guards) and cod piece printed. Moving on to the helmet now.

Using Liquitex Modeling Paste to get rid of layer lines after watching videos on it by Breanna Wright on YouTube. After applying a few light coats and sanding on a couple pieces, I have to say I am impressed. The surface comes out very smooth. Should make for some easier painting sessions.

How is this working for you?  I have some pieces of my kit I need to 3D Print. I had planned to use a resin and baby powder mixture I had seen on another video.

[wookie_shaver]

19 minutes ago, Mal86 said:

How is this working for you?  I have some pieces of my kit I need to 3D Print. I had planned to use a resin and baby powder mixture I had seen on another video.

I'm impressed. I've seen the resin and powder video before and I would say this is much easier. The modeling paste is marble dust impregnated so it dries tough. I sanded using 80 grit and light pressure till I got the smooth I wanted. Cod piece took probably 20 min of sanding and I would feel good enough to go to filler primer with that piece. 

Breanna shows a couple techniques on thinning it out (one is brush paste on right from the container and then smooth with a brush dipped in water, and another where she waters it down before applying). I water it down before applying. I would say it seems that this process, at least on the smaller and less complicated parts, should save a good bit of time. We'll find out in the end though.

Here's a link to her layer line Playlist.

Good luck if you go this route. 

[Mal86]

On 5/12/2024 at 9:10 PM, wookie_shaver said:

I'm impressed. I've seen the resin and powder video before and I would say this is much easier. The modeling paste is marble dust impregnated so it dries tough. I sanded using 80 grit and light pressure till I got the smooth I wanted. Cod piece took probably 20 min of sanding and I would feel good enough to go to filler primer with that piece. 

Breanna shows a couple techniques on thinning it out (one is brush paste on right from the container and then smooth with a brush dipped in water, and another where she waters it down before applying). I water it down before applying. I would say it seems that this process, at least on the smaller and less complicated parts, should save a good bit of time. We'll find out in the end though.

Here's a link to her layer line Playlist.

Good luck if you go this route. 

I tried this tonight and after a little sanding, I went to rinse off the piece. All of the liquidex came off. Is that your experience?

i had also started the build up the trim on my shin piece with this, but I’m concerned it might not be the best option if it is going to soften and come off with water. 

[wookie_shaver]

1 minute ago, Mal86 said:

I tried this tonight and after a little sanding, I went to rinse off the piece. All of the liquidex came off. Is that your experience?

i had also started the build up the trim on my shin piece with this, but I’m concerned it might not be the best option if it is going to soften and come off with water. 

Ì did not have this experience. I have done multiple coats of it with sanding and rinsing in between. When I rinse my pieces, it it just that, a quick rinse to get off an residual dust and then I let it dry. How did you apply it? Was it thinned at all, or strait from the container? I have only used it thinned out. And how long did you let it dry? When I do my applications, I let it dry for 24 hrs before sanding.

 

 

[Mal86]

13 hours ago, wookie_shaver said:

Ì did not have this experience. I have done multiple coats of it with sanding and rinsing in between. When I rinse my pieces, it it just that, a quick rinse to get off an residual dust and then I let it dry. How did you apply it? Was it thinned at all, or strait from the container? I have only used it thinned out. And how long did you let it dry? When I do my applications, I let it dry for 24 hrs before sanding.

 

 

I did not let it dry 24 hours. I did thin it, but I just waited until it was dry to the touch. I was also worried I thinned it too much. I’ll re try with the 24 hour wait. Thanks for the suggestion. 
 

I also emailed the company to ask if it was water proof once it dried. I’m most worried about finishing the shins then painting then having them come off if they get too wet. 

[wookie_shaver]

7 minutes ago, Mal86 said:

I did not let it dry 24 hours. I did thin it, but I just waited until it was dry to the touch. I was also worried I thinned it too much. I’ll re try with the 24 hour wait. Thanks for the suggestion. 
 

I also emailed the company to ask if it was water proof once it dried. I’m most worried about finishing the shins then painting then having them come off if they get too wet. 

I thinned it just enough to about the consistency of a loose white glue. I would imagine that your issue is because of not enough dry time. Dry to the touch is still wet underneath. I did have a layer line shift at the very top of one of my shoulder bells that I fixed by breaking the bell at the shift and epoxying together. I then smoothed it with a slightly thinned application.i let that sit for 48 hrs before sanding but it was extremely hard and sanded very nicely.

[wookie_shaver]

Mask is coming along nicely now that the printer is dialed in. Going to finish the full helmet and assemble before any finishing to check fit and other details to make sure everything is good first. Print, print, print. 

[wookie_shaver]

Please close this thread and close my account. I have withdrawn my application to my local garrison.