Death Trooper building in Germany (Jim Tripon kit)

[DoggyDoc[CMD-DCA]]

I used the Tamiya Metalic black with an airbrush.  I masked off the black areas which were painted first, then clear coated over everything. I then masked off the non matte black areas and did a matte clear coat over the gloss one to give the matted finish

[Deathwatch]

Did you use matte black for the recesses/lines on the shoulder/biceps/thigh too? 
I think chrome would be too bright for those lines…I was ogling gun metal like colors for those lines…what did you use? 

[DoggyDoc[CMD-DCA]]

1 hour ago, Deathwatch said:

 

Did you use matte black for the recesses/lines on the shoulder/biceps/thigh too? 
I think chrome would be too bright for those lines…I was ogling gun metal like colors for those lines…what did you use? 

 

I did not weather my armour, so the recessed lines were not painted but left gloss black. For weathering, most use a grey/white wash for the effect

[Deathwatch]

Okay I see…

I kinda like the look with the painted silver/gun metal recessed lines (see biceps part 501st crl) …probably will go with gun metal color and weather with black enamel wash…

 

• Shallow grooves are present in a pattern matching the photo.
  • The grooves may be a matte black, metallic black, matte silver, or gray.
  • If coloring is used, the shoulder bells, biceps, forearms, and thighs must match.

[Chaos[CMD-DCA]]

10 hours ago, Deathwatch said:

Okay I see…

I kinda like the look with the painted silver/gun metal recessed lines (see biceps part 501st crl) …probably will go with gun metal color and weather with black enamel wash…

 

• Shallow grooves are present in a pattern matching the photo.
  • The grooves may be a matte black, metallic black, matte silver, or gray.
  • If coloring is used, the shoulder bells, biceps, forearms, and thighs must match.

Make sure that that you use  matte or metallic black, matte silver, or dark gray and must match the rest of the armor and make sure that all of the recesses that state "may be painted" are all done to match. There is no "gun metal" color in the Color Scheme but I am going to assume that you are referring to the "metallic dark grey" which is Tamiya Metallic Black - TS40. The silver is a "matte silver" you can dull it down with a "black wash" if using that as a "weathering" it must be consistent with the rest of the armor pieces.

[Deathwatch]

Hello guys!!

 

I ran into some snags with my clear coat…

i clear coated with 3-4 layers of spraymax 2k clear and the spraying was done 2 weeks ago.

The coat feels rigid to the touch…BUT as soon as a blanket lays on top of it the pattern of the blanket gets „imprinted“ on the parts (its very subtle and I cannot feel the pattern but you can see it if the light catches the piece at the right angle) 

the weather conditions should have been favorable…does it really need more time to cure (I read on car forums that clear can take months to cure)? What did you do with your parts? Did you store each piece separately?

any ideas?
Thank you! 

[PiotrRasputin[501st]]

1 hour ago, Deathwatch said:

Hello guys!!

 

I ran into some snags with my clear coat…

i clear coated with 3-4 layers of spraymax 2k clear and the spraying was done 2 weeks ago.

The coat feels rigid to the touch…BUT as soon as a blanket lays on top of it the pattern of the blanket gets „imprinted“ on the parts (its very subtle and I cannot feel the pattern but you can see it if the light catches the piece at the right angle) 

the weather conditions should have been favorable…does it really need more time to cure (I read on car forums that clear can take months to cure)? What did you do with your parts? Did you store each piece separately?

any ideas?
Thank you! 

Hi Ben,

When I was using 2K clear coat, I did the following:

-followed the amount of time to shake before, and after activating the can

-had a warm, but not too humid day

-used a small, portable spray tent with a filter and fan

-did 2 light coats about 12 inches away, waiting 15 minutes between them, then did a wet coat (did a 2nd wet coat on areas that didn't look so good)

-after waiting 15 minutes from the last wet coat, I moved the parts inside where it was consistently 68 degrees F with low humidity and let it sit for about 48 hours.

I did let it sit for a week before doing anything else with it, but it turned out pretty good.  Maybe humidity was your issue? 

[DoggyDoc[CMD-DCA]]

I had the same issue with my armour. It was about 1 month after I finished it. The bags I had my pieces I. Were fleece on one side and a knit pattern on the other. I had the knit in against the armour for some reason and it imprinted on the pieces. I was able to buff the marks out with a car polisher. 
I always put the fleece against the armour since and it has been okay. 
it is as if it just doesn’t cure properly. It was hot when I did it outside big I immediately brought the pieces inside to dry. That may be the cause 

[Chaos[CMD-DCA]]

I too had the issue with my Shadow Trooper paint job, what ever I wrapped my pieces in left a slight impression in the paint, it'll buff out with auto polish. Eventually it stopped doing it so I can assume the clear coat finally cured. I have noticed with the 2K Clear coat cans, if you don't get the "hardener" thoroughly mixed the clear coat will take a will to harden. That's why when I repainted my DT I used the Appliance Enamel, its hard as nails and cures that way in about 3-4 days.

Don't stow the pieces for a while if you can help it, put them in a cool dry place with good airflow.

[Deathwatch]

Thank you for the input! Much appreciated! 
I read that it takes quite some time to harden…but I feel better now that I know you guys had the same „imprinting“ problems. 
Will probably store the armor for 2-3 full months before buffing and weathering and hopefully this time will be enough…because I do not have the space to store all the pieces individually (I got a big box and wrapped the pieces in felt to guard against scratches).