DT - Jim Tripon Calves and Forearms HELP

[productionsbykyle]

Hello there,

I have Jim Tripon’s DT Armor kit and am really struggling with the calves and forearms. I’ve seen people epoxy both sides together for the gauntlets and that works great for them, but my problem is I am also making two DT kits for my parents, who are approaching 60. 
 

I would like to make the kits accessible for them (as much as being in a kit of armor can be) and don’t want them straining their hands and feet to get into the calves and forearms. 
 

My first attempt at this was using magnets. I drilled into the armor and used ABS strips to add magnets to both sides of the valves and forearms. This didn’t really work as it made it difficult to put on without the under-suit getting caught and it wasn’t a very strong bond, with my worry that it would come off during a troop. Additionally, after installing the magnets, I placed the pieces in boiling water to help heat form them, but that caused the gorilla glue epoxy to fail, undoing all the work. This procedure of drilling was only done to my calves and forearms, so I plan to fill the holes with fiberglass resin and restart. 
 

With the backstory out of the way, here are my questions:

 

1. What epoxy should I be using with this kit? Mainly the calves and forearms as heat treatment will be needed to properly form it to my calves and forearms. 
 

2. How did you heat treat your pieces to fit? The forearms were in such a warped shape when I got them, so something needs to be done to get them in a better shape and more comfortable. 
 

3. How did you connect the two halves of your calves and forearms? Is this a method that you believe would be accessible to individuals who are approaching 60? ( my mom had hand surgery last year so the forearms are my biggest concern)

 

Thank you for taking the time to read this! 

[Chaos[CMD-DCA]]

Kyle, my kit is a Jimmi one. Tomorrow at work I will put together something for you. If could take some photos of your forearms and shins so I can see what we are working with.

[productionsbykyle]

Thank you @Chaos  Here are some photos:

I’m new to forum posts so I am not sure if I attached them the correct way or if I could have alternated text and pictures.
 

Some pictures here show the method I was trying to do with the imbedded magnets and the ABS strips, as well as how this failed with the epoxy when I boiled them to heat form.
 

The most important pictures are the ones that show how they align  the forearms has a lot of curve at the ends that I would want to straighten.  For the calves, when the front edges are held together, there is a ton of overlap in the back.  Finally, when the front and the back of the calves are aligned, the front the back length is small, with the opening being an oval shape, making it uncomfortable/ hard to get on/wear.  I am hoping heat forming will help all of these concerns  

 

[productionsbykyle]

Hello there.  Is there anyone that is able to give some suggestions I have listed above?

 

[Chaos[CMD-DCA]]

Kyle, apologies it has taken me a while to circle back around to this. Seeing how I have Jim's kit and am approaching 60 as well, I think the way I built mine will work well for you. Now that I see your photos I'll put together something for you in the next couple of days.

[Chaos[CMD-DCA]]

Oh and go purchase yourself some tubes of Devon Plastic Welder. It holds very well and won't seperate in a hot water bath.

Also go buy you a tall inexpensive soup/stock pot 32 quarts or more.You'll need these for my suggestions 

[productionsbykyle]

Thank you @Chaos  I have removed the previous work done to the forearms and calves, which included removing magnets, abs strips, and sanding down previous epoxy and stuff, and now I have some fiberglass resin filling the magnet holes.  Plan on getting these done and ready! Thank you again! 

 

[productionsbykyle]

Here is what I did for fiberglass resin to fix my previous attempt. I used tape on the outside of the holes and brushed the resin on the inside of the piece, filling the holes and painting along the edge. My hope was that it would strengthen the areas that now had holes in them but also to ensure the resin filling the holes won’t come out. Here are some pictures of one of the forearms. 
 

I can still flex them a little bit but am not trying to flex it like a piece of rubber as I know that is not the intent of the piece. 
 

if anyone has comments on my application on if I did this wrong, please let me know. Thank you for your time. 

[productionsbykyle]

[productionsbykyle]

With this, for the outside, I will use bondo to fill in and smooth these areas once I have the attachment method figured out. For the inside, I will coat with something to prevent fiberglass from getting everywhere once it is done. 

[Chaos[CMD-DCA]]

Kyle, before you get too far with the bondo, I would not do any bondo work before you water bath the pieces.

I am just about done with a "how to" for the forearms and calves for you.

[productionsbykyle]

Thanks @Chaos not planning on doing bondo until after the water bath! Thank you for the help!

[Chaos[CMD-DCA]]

Ok I got the forearm info done, this should keep you busy while I finish up the shins info. Let me know if you have any questions. Slow and meticulous are the words of the day for this.

 

Hot Water Bath Shaping.pdf

[productionsbykyle]

This rocks, thank you! @Chaos I didn’t think about just using my forearm to keep them closed for the clamshell method. 
 

I have two questions:

1) is there a place on the forum that this can be stored so that others can view it?

2) For doing the clamshell method, is there a way to ensure both edges of the unglued side are painted? Like did you separate the halves slightly while painting to achieve this? My worry is putting stress on the parts and causing them to crack, so I’m sure that opening the clamshell slightly during painting may be bad. Let me know your thoughts on this. 
 

Thank you again!