Dogb's Deathtrooper WIP

[dogbertwrldrulr]

17 hours ago, DoggyDoc said:

I can. As long as the resin is still okay. It’s been a couple of years. 

If you’ve got the resin and it’s good, I would certainly appreciate the pieces.

[dogbertwrldrulr]

I got in the supplies today so I can remake my belt.  The one I have has too many buttons on it and is a little too thick.  I am going to cut myself a new length (and have some extra), and put a nylon belt inside the rubber so it fits better.  I plan on following the guide (mostly) that was linked way at the top of my thread.  This will also allow me to change the method of attachment for the small boxes and the buckle.  They are currently screwed in (boxes), and button snaps (buckle).  I plan on replacing it all with Chicago screws.  I also like the idea of adhering the top of this to my abdomen rather than the bottom of this to the top of the codpiece (current belt).  Depending on how it lays, I may attach the cod as well just so everything stays in place, but that's an easy fix later.

I also got in my paint so I can repaint the chest piece to hopefully fix the big scrape on there.  Going to have to test the paint on something else first to make sure it matches up with the rest of the non gloss black stuff.  The smaller bag is a new sling swivel stud as the one of my blaster apparently fell off at some point so I am going with a slightly more permanent solution by bolting it in, just have to figure out how to get the bolt down the barrel and then hold onto it.

[dogbertwrldrulr]

So I did a test paint on a plastic container to see how the TS-40 would look before I try to repaint one section of my armor.  Thoughts on how it turned out?  I think the color is a great match, but the armor is slightly shinier.  I am not sure if that is due to the differences in material or if the armor was clear coated.

[Chaos[CMD-DCA]]

No need to clear coat the TS40, won't effect any approval at all. 

[dogbertwrldrulr]

I got around to making a new belt as the old one had a bunch of snaps on it that would have been clearly visible.  How did I do for placement and such?  The only items screwed into place are the buckle and small boxes, all pouches and the holster can move as needed.

Also, how do you keep the belt from falling down?  I can't seem to keep it under the abdomen, it keeps working its way down.  I thought about adding some nylon straps with buttons so it connects directly to the abdomen, but that seems like overkill.  Maybe I just need to tighten it up a bit?  It was slightly loose when I took these as I had to dress myself.  Do you attach the codpiece to it or let that hang?

I also have a TON more belt material.  Thinking about cutting it to length and selling my spare cheap in case anyone else needs any.

[Chaos[CMD-DCA]]

This might help. Go to pages 20-23 for a solution. This is how I affix my belt.Armor Strapping.pdf

[dogbertwrldrulr]

8 minutes ago, Chaos said:

This might help. Go to pages 20-23 for a solution. This is how I affix my belt.Armor Strapping.pdf

I can't seem to download the file, can you PM it to me?  Or provide a direct link somewhere?

[dogbertwrldrulr]

Just now, dogbertwrldrulr said:

I can't seem to download the file, can you PM it to me?  Or provide a direct link somewhere?

Nevermind, browser needed an update and restart.  I got it now.

[dogbertwrldrulr]

50 minutes ago, Chaos said:

This might help. Go to pages 20-23 for a solution. This is how I affix my belt.Armor Strapping.pdf

Can I ask how you trimmed your thigh armor?  I read the whole thing and it says you pulled about 2" off the thighs.  What is the best way to trim up the fiberglass and hopefully not destroy the paint job?

 

And thank you for the document!  I am going to try and find something to put on the bottom of my abdomen as I don't have a 3D printer and the center section is "deep" because of the external shape.

[dogbertwrldrulr]

10 hours ago, Chaos said:

This might help. Go to pages 20-23 for a solution. This is how I affix my belt.Armor Strapping.pdf

Some questions on the harness system you built to hold up the thighs and ab/back.  Is there any reason you built a second harness for the abdomen/lower back instead of just gluing/sewing the straps to the tops of the shoulder on the thigh harness?  You could still make them adjustable like you have them, but instead of having a second harness, it could all be integrated into one.  I am building a thigh harness now (ran out of 2" nylon) and was going to toy with the idea of mounting the ab/back to it and see how it turned out.  I am thinking about having the female end hang from the top of the shoulder with just enough slack so it doesn't get crushed by the chest armor, then putting the male end coming off the ab/back.  I could leave a lot of extra nylon as needed on the male end as it will naturally hang under the ab which in turn gives it a lot of flexibility to go up and down as needed.  Alternatively, the female could be right off the ab like you did and the slack would go over my shoulders or tuck under and require minimal sewing at the top of the shoulder.

I know you have your ab section soft goods attached to your ab/back so that may be why it wouldn't work for you, but thought I'd run it by you to see if there was something else obvious I may have missed or not thought of.

[dogbertwrldrulr]

Some more progress tonight.  I don't know how I missed it but my ab armor had quite a bit of metallic paint rubbed off where it met the chest armor.  As this area is partially hidden and smaller, I thought it would be a good idea to test paint this area before repainting the metallic black portion of my chest armor.

Here is what the area looked like before painting.

This is after the first coat...it did not look good.  Second picture is the repainted part next to my test piece that I used to check the color/look before painting the armor. As you can see, it turned gray, but had no metallic look to it whatsoever.  It was also blatantly obvious where the armor had rubbed off previously.  I am not sure if this was a poor spray application, too thick, or too high humidity (thanks Florida), but it looked terrible.

Tonight when it was a bit cooler and had lower humidity, I put on one final coat that was as thin as I could spray it.  This coat turned out great.  Here it is next to the chest piece and its a perfect match.

I still have to repaint the chest armor, but I am going to stop painting for a bit and work on my harness system.  I need something to hold my thighs better and then for the belt to attach to my ab armor, which in turn needs to be supported by something better than a couple of elastic bands.  Hopefully more on that this weekend when I get my sewing machine and start permanently attaching my nylon webbing.

[Chaos[CMD-DCA]]

On 7/24/2025 at 7:14 PM, dogbertwrldrulr said:

Can I ask how you trimmed your thigh armor?  I read the whole thing and it says you pulled about 2" off the thighs.  What is the best way to trim up the fiberglass and hopefully not destroy the paint job?

 

And thank you for the document!  I am going to try and find something to put on the bottom of my abdomen as I don't have a 3D printer and the center section is "deep" because of the external shape.

I figured out how much I needed to trim off the top edges of the thighs to keep them from pinching (it was about 2") So I put painter's tape along the top edges and measured 2 " from the top edges and just drew a new top edge. Then I uses a dremel with a cut off wheel to cut the 2" off. 

You can use any type of ABS or thick plastic material to cut a strip. My kit has the same bottom edge that is turned back and has a gap. The piece that I designed has a raised block that slides into the gap so that it can be epooxied to the inside of the lower abdomen. 

photo and file attached.

UPDATED abdomen belt extension piece.stl

[Chaos[CMD-DCA]]

On 7/25/2025 at 5:07 AM, dogbertwrldrulr said:

Some questions on the harness system you built to hold up the thighs and ab/back.  Is there any reason you built a second harness for the abdomen/lower back instead of just gluing/sewing the straps to the tops of the shoulder on the thigh harness?  You could still make them adjustable like you have them, but instead of having a second harness, it could all be integrated into one.  I am building a thigh harness now (ran out of 2" nylon) and was going to toy with the idea of mounting the ab/back to it and see how it turned out.  I am thinking about having the female end hang from the top of the shoulder with just enough slack so it doesn't get crushed by the chest armor, then putting the male end coming off the ab/back.  I could leave a lot of extra nylon as needed on the male end as it will naturally hang under the ab which in turn gives it a lot of flexibility to go up and down as needed.  Alternatively, the female could be right off the ab like you did and the slack would go over my shoulders or tuck under and require minimal sewing at the top of the shoulder.

I know you have your ab section soft goods attached to your ab/back so that may be why it wouldn't work for you, but thought I'd run it by you to see if there was something else obvious I may have missed or not thought of.

I wanted all my armor sections to move independently. example my upper chest and back sit squarely on my shoulders and move with my upper torso.

My abdomen and lower back are attached as the corset which is snug with my waist and twists with my lower back and abodmen.

My thighs need to be supported to keep the correct height and gap when I raise and lower my legs, climb stairs, sit down etc. The correct height is set based off my shoulders. This is where I chose to suppport them from.

I origianlly had everything strapped like a TK where everything was attached the piece above it and then hung below. for less complicated kits that works fine, but the weight of all the DT pieces plus the complexity of how the parts are supposed to move led me to my current strapping process. If you check out Paul's Shore Trooper, it is basically the same way.

[dogbertwrldrulr]

34 minutes ago, Chaos said:

I figured out how much I needed to trim off the top edges of the thighs to keep them from pinching (it was about 2") So I put painter's tape along the top edges and measured 2 " from the top edges and just drew a new top edge. Then I uses a dremel with a cut off wheel to cut the 2" off. 

You can use any type of ABS or thick plastic material to cut a strip. My kit has the same bottom edge that is turned back and has a gap. The piece that I designed has a raised block that slides into the gap so that it can be epooxied to the inside of the lower abdomen. 

photo and file attached.

UPDATED abdomen belt extension piece.stl 31.33 kB · 0 downloads

Gotcha.  I found some clear semi-rigid plastic yesterday at the craft store and am in the process of gluing it to the inside/bottom of my ab armor now.  With the slight curve of the ab, I think it will maintain the rigidity that I need.  The sheet is 8.5x11 with lots left over so if its a bit flimsy I can double up the section that hangs down that will connect with my belt.  I made it so it went 2" up behind the ab so the sheet/glue has plenty of space to "bite" into the armor and hold it up.  Once I have it complete and it actually holds the belt up I plan on posting pictures.

[dogbertwrldrulr]

27 minutes ago, Chaos said:

I wanted all my armor sections to move independently. example my upper chest and back sit squarely on my shoulders and move with my upper torso.

My abdomen and lower back are attached as the corset which is snug with my waist and twists with my lower back and abodmen.

My thighs need to be supported to keep the correct height and gap when I raise and lower my legs, climb stairs, sit down etc. The correct height is set based off my shoulders. This is where I chose to suppport them from.

I origianlly had everything strapped like a TK where everything was attached the piece above it and then hung below. for less complicated kits that works fine, but the weight of all the DT pieces plus the complexity of how the parts are supposed to move led me to my current strapping process. If you check out Paul's Shore Trooper, it is basically the same way.

Understood.  Right now I just want to get my thighs to stay in place, the rest seems ok for now, but I will want something better and will actively work on it.

28 minutes ago, Chaos said:

but the weight of all the DT pieces

This resonates so much with me.  I know fiberglass is going to weigh a bit more, but I was not really prepared for the weight of this kit.  I have no problem wearing it, but the individual pieces weigh so much that its hard to keep that good fit.

It's funny, the only piece that needed any major modifications was my belt (the guy I bought the suit from was smaller than me), but after I got that done I realized it sagged and connecting the belt to my ab made the ab pull down which messed with the look and then the codpiece was off and since the ab is connected to my chest, the whole rig pulled forward slightly.  Now I am working the harnessing to try and make life easier.

[Chaos[CMD-DCA]]

That is why I have multiple harnesses.

[dogbertwrldrulr]

I made several changes and then did a suit up to see how it looked.  I now attach the cod and posterior plates directly to the belt vice having them hang. The top of the belt now attaches directly to a piece of plastic that hangs down from my ab (not 100%, see below), and attaches via velcro directly to the lower back plate.  I tightened up the strapping that holds up the thighs, but its still not great, I will likely have to get my thighs trimmed at some point as they are slightly long, but its not a roadblock at this point, just an irritant.  There were several other minor fit issues that got fixed too.

I'd like to get others thoughts on how it looks.

Here are the things that I know need to be corrected (in no particular order):

1. Belt needs to ride up higher and stay attached to my ab piece.

2. Codpiece was/is crooked.

3. Flap came out on my right shoe.

4. The zipper on my neck needs to be all the way up.

5. I'm missing the latch on my left side (I have it, forgot to re-attach before suit up).

6. Repaint the left side of my chest to fix the scratched paint.

7. Turn the helmet lights on next time.

[Chaos[CMD-DCA]]

Hey Dan, sorry for the delay on this but the photos you posted over on the FB DT build group reminded me to take a look. I figured I'd post it here instead of on the FB page. If you have any questions about what I am talking about let me know and I can post some explanatory photos.

Couple of things before you submit for basic approval. First thing ... you have done a great job with your kit, it's obvious you put a lot of time and effort into it. There are just a few "minor" things to work out, most you have identified already.

-          Forearms, the ladder detail is aligned with the bicep and shoulder center raised cover strip

-          Left forearm, cylindrical detailed parts, need to be painted metallic black (TS40) or weathered silver, since you already have them silver, just hit them with some thinned black paint wash.

-          Boot covers, put some velcro on the front corners to make the covers lay over the shape of the boot toe. This will keep you from looking like you have “duck feet”

-          Boot covers, if you put a piece of velcro on the front top side of the cover, and the other piece on the shin front inside, it will help keep the boot cover under the shin and help keep your shin from rotating around.

-          Thermal detonator, remove the zip ties or whatever the two bands near the middle.

-          Forearms/Shins, any pieces that you have clam shelled for closures, make sure they are completely closed when you submit.

-          Biceps, CRL “It is held in place by one or two black elastic cord straps.”  The elastic cords are the same type as a ponytail holder (which is what they were on the screen suits. The elastic band you have is way too wide. Ask your GML if he/she will accept it.

I can go back and take a look for Level 2 if you like. 

[dogbertwrldrulr]

@chaos, Thank you so much for looking it over!!!

2 hours ago, Chaos said:

Forearms, the ladder detail is aligned with the bicep and shoulder center raised cover strip

I think this is a dressing issue, but I am going to try and put an internal strap on the left gauntlet to hold it in place better.  When my wrist bends, the gauntlet shifts a little due to where the cutout is on the inside.  Some velcro or something will hold it pretty well.  I did something similar for my left gauntlet on my Fett as well.

2 hours ago, Chaos said:

Left forearm, cylindrical detailed parts, need to be painted metallic black (TS40) or weathered silver, since you already have them silver, just hit them with some thinned black paint wash.

If TS-40 is acceptable here, I will probably paint them.  I am laughably bad at detail type painting (or washing), and just spray painting them one color is much easier for me.

2 hours ago, Chaos said:

Boot covers, put some velcro on the front corners to make the covers lay over the shape of the boot toe. This will keep you from looking like you have “duck feet”

Will do.  I was not going to worry about this for basic, but since my pauldron is going to take a bit to get here, I will take care of this too.

2 hours ago, Chaos said:

Boot covers, if you put a piece of velcro on the front top side of the cover, and the other piece on the shin front inside, it will help keep the boot cover under the shin and help keep your shin from rotating around.

Took care of this last night. I sewed a leather flap to the top of the cover, then put velcro inside the shin and it holds it quite well now.  I have to put all my bottom stuff on again to check that its good long term though.

2 hours ago, Chaos said:

Thermal detonator, remove the zip ties or whatever the two bands near the middle.

Right now, the zip ties are what is holding the thermal detonator on.  I can try to find another method to adhere it, but not sure what to use.

2 hours ago, Chaos said:

Forearms/Shins, any pieces that you have clam shelled for closures, make sure they are completely closed when you submit.

Can do. My wife and kids helped me dress and they weren't sure what everything was supposed to look like and I didn't notice some of it.  I did just see the right forearm though and I can't believe I missed something that obvious.

2 hours ago, Chaos said:

Biceps, CRL “It is held in place by one or two black elastic cord straps.”  The elastic cords are the same type as a ponytail holder (which is what they were on the screen suits. The elastic band you have is way too wide. Ask your GML if he/she will accept it.

Can do, just need to find some long enough to cover the gap and have room to be glued in place.

2 hours ago, Chaos said:

I can go back and take a look for Level 2 if you like.

Eventually, yes, I would love this.  I think I have some more items to fix to make sure its ready for that level of detailed look.  Once I get all this fixed and have my pictures for approval, I can post those and ask you to look them over.  That should have everything on this list and my list fixed and hopefully I will have some more experienced help getting me dressed so they know what to look for.  Hopefully that is only a couple weeks away (just need that pesky pauldron from Europe)!

[dogbertwrldrulr]

Got a number of comments from here and FB so I went ahead and made some changes today.

1. Fixed the belt issue.  I used a plastic sheet to create a panel where I could put on some Velcro and adhere the belt.  The sheet hangs down a bit from the ab and is clear so you don't see it even through the minor cracks between the belt and ab.  For the sheet, I roamed around the craft store looking for something plastic and semi-rigid as it had to fit the contour of the ab armor.  What I found was an ink blending mat.  It was an 8.5"x11" clear sheet that has a decent amount of flexibility, but still very strong.  I lined it up and drew where I wanted Velcro put on.  Once the Velcro was holding it generally in place, I gently lifted it up and put a bunch of adhesive where it made contact with the armor (the Velcro is in the valleys).  I used corn hole bags to press the adhesive in overnight.  I then added the 3/4" strip of Velcro and glued it down.  The plastic sheet I used apparently didn't like E-6000 on the Velcro which is why the Velcro strip fell off for the pictures above.  I put some super glue on instead and that did the trick.  The Velcro doesn't move anymore.

 

 

2. Next were the shoes.  I had a couple things to fix here.

First was adding in flaps to the top of the covers and adding some Velcro so it could adhere to the inside of my shin armor.  I found some small strips of leather at the craft sore and cut it in half to get my "tongues".  Considering I only learned to sew 3 days ago, it was a bit difficult getting the leather sewed onto the backs of the tops.  I had to use a pretty big needle and some nylon thread, but I eventually got it.  For good measure, I also sewed the Velcro to the leather tongues.

Second was getting the fronts to fold down to contour the toe of the shoe.  A lot of people recommended Velcro, but I didn't want to glue or sew the other pieces to the shoe and I didn't think the back of the Velcro would hold to the leather.  I came up with another idea.  I used metal landscaping stakes pushed into the opening in the seam at the end of the cover flap.  I cut the metal to length, make sure it fit, covered it with shrink tubing (and end caps), inserted it, then bent it into shape around the toe.  The metal is quite strong and easily maintains shape even when the covers are not attached.  I thought it turned out quite well.

 

3. Biceps. It was pointed out that I was using elastic bands that were way too big on my biceps.  I "borrowed" some hair ties from my wife and used those instead.  My bicep armor naturally is kind of tight so I left some slack when gluing the bands in so it looks right on suit up.  I don't really need these to hold the armor in place, so its just for looks.

 

4. Chest armor.  Again, I had 2 items to take care of here.

Repainting. After my successful repaint of the ab armor, I dove in and repainted the chest to get rid of the scratches that appeared at breast height.  Now that I know to go light on the spray and do it when humidity is low, this one was a breeze.

The left buckle under my arm also came off a week or so ago.  I put it back on once the paint was dry.

 

5. Speaking of repainting, it was pointed out that my cylindrical greeblies on my left forearm are either supposed to be weathered silver or metallic black.  Since I have no artistic skills to weather paint jobs, and spray painting is easier, I painted them the metallic black.  Taking them off was irritating as the screw is really small and uses a weird drive size, but I managed.

 

6. Gloves. The gloves I had seemed a little tight, the inner lining had come loose from the outer, and there was a small hole in the gloves.  I ordered a new pair and they arrived in just a couple of days (who knew Endor Finders was in Florida!).  The new ones are definitely more my size and are fresh and crispy.  I moved the hand plates over and we have new gloves!

 

Now the only thing left is to figure out a better way to mount my thermal detonator.  Its currently held in place with zip ties.  Off to the forums to find a better way!

[dogbertwrldrulr]

Minor update for the day.  Someone was nice enough to send me the files to print brackets for my thermal detonator.  I had a local friend 3D print them for me in resin.  Since my back already had holes drilled for the zip ties that were holding the TD, I had to match drill the brackets to those holes.  I then installed M3 threaded inserts so I had something for the machine screws to hold onto.  A dab of super glue near the edges makes sure they won't move.  I drilled out the center of the brackets too so there was room for a through screw that actually holds the TD to the brackets.  The tops of the holes had a wider bore to account for the screw head.  I then installed the same M3 threaded inserts into the TD.  I am testing out a high gloss black paint for these right now but will likely have to wait until tomorrow to see how it looks.  Hopefully this is the last modification piece I need, then just waiting for my pauldron to arrive and take some photos.  Almost there!!!

[Grandmoshtarkin]

3 minutes ago, dogbertwrldrulr said:

Minor update for the day.  Someone was nice enough to send me the files to print brackets for my thermal detonator.  I had a local friend 3D print them for me in resin.  Since my back already had holes drilled for the zip ties that were holding the TD, I had to match drill the brackets to those holes.  I then installed M3 threaded inserts so I had something for the machine screws to hold onto.  A dab of super glue near the edges makes sure they won't move.  I drilled out the center of the brackets too so there was room for a through screw that actually holds the TD to the brackets.  The tops of the holes had a wider bore to account for the screw head.  I then installed the same M3 threaded inserts into the TD.  I am testing out a high gloss black paint for these right now but will likely have to wait until tomorrow to see how it looks.  Hopefully this is the last modification piece I need, then just waiting for my pauldron to arrive and take some photos.  Almost there!!!

The threaded inserts seem like a great idea. I haven’t gotten anywhere close to worrying about my detonator, but it is one long bracket on mine and I was on the fence about how to attach it. Maybe I’ll do something similar and screw it in from the back of the lower back plate. Let me know it holds up for you!

[dogbertwrldrulr]

18 minutes ago, Grandmoshtarkin said:

The threaded inserts seem like a great idea. I haven’t gotten anywhere close to worrying about my detonator, but it is one long bracket on mine and I was on the fence about how to attach it. Maybe I’ll do something similar and screw it in from the back of the lower back plate. Let me know it holds up for you!

Will do.  I wasn't going to worry about it yet, but a few days ago, Chaos gave me a nice list of items I should take a look at.  I was able to fix everything else and am now waiting on my last part to come in so I figured I would tackle it.  I did hate the zip ties, but they worked, so this will remove an annoyance.

Let me know if you want the 3D print files and/or links to the inserts I used.  If you do go this route, be very very careful on the drill bit you use.  I started small and worked my way up and I didn't realize in my bit set that after a while they stop going up by 1/64" and it went up by like 1/16" and one of my holes was too wide and the insert fell to the bottom.  I ended up rigging something up to make the insert "hover" in the hole and just dropped super glue in there.  It holds great now, but I would have preferred to have it bite into the resin like the others.  The correct drill bit size for my inserts (M3 inner, M5 outer) is 3/16". This makes it tight enough so that the insert grips the resin, but not so tight that I can't get the insert in.  Used a 3/16" flat head to get the inserts 90% of the way in and then a 1/8" flat head to finish them off and recess them a bit so I could dab some super glue in the slots to hold them in place.

Now that I need more stuff to do, I have been looking over the Specialist (L2) applications and seeing where people are getting dinged.  I already found a few things where I know I would have issues, so I may address those while waiting on my pauldron as well.  Not required for basic, but anything to get a head start works for me.