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Yes, exact. The CRL doesn’t include the Scout ROTJ text on this. Unsure how to proceed… happy to do either.

Thanks!

Lookin' good!

Yep the single mount does look clean! As for the rivets, are you talking about the plastic part of the belt being riveted to the canvas of the belt?

Just waiting on the boots now.

Very well! No worries on traveling, I know that drill. We'll be here when you get a chance to re-model and print! I'll get some text up for this soon.

Most use imgur. It is free and will store all of your images for you. If you select direct link from the photo on imgur, you can paste that into the post and the photo will show up. Make sure to use direct link and not image link

Can one of you distinguished Gentleman please run me through the process of posting images in the forum ?

We hit the 6-month mark yesterday and the CRLs have been requested to be unlocked to add the following to the helmet text: -Helmets considered disproportionate in size or shape are ineligible. This includes, but is not limited to, the Walt's Trooper Factory V1 Scout helmet.

This rocks, thank you! @Chaos I didn’t think about just using my forearm to keep them closed for the clamshell method. I have two questions: 1) is there a place on the forum that this can be stored so that others can view it? 2) For doing the clamshell method, is there a way to ensure both edges of the unglued side are painted? Like did you separate the halves slightly while painting to achieve this? My worry is putting stress on the parts and causing them to crack, so I’m sure that opening the clamshell slightly during painting may be bad. Let me know your thoughts on this. Thank you again!

Ok I got the forearm info done, this should keep you busy while I finish up the shins info. Let me know if you have any questions. Slow and meticulous are the words of the day for this. Hot Water Bath Shaping.pdf

@SketchyGTI Collin, Welcome to the darker side of The Darkside! Awesome choice on your kit, I look forward to your progress. Best of luck on your build. Reach out to the community if you have any questions or issues.

Hi guys, sorry for the late reply, I’m currently traveling out of town for work. yeah this pack was a mix of what I saw in the comics and what I thought for functionally with the thrusters (it looked weird pointing straight out) but they do swivel and can be interchanged. I do like the functionality of them being directional to be honest but happy to change if needed. The lighting can be easily altered to just be the thrusters for sure. That way the vents would just be holes. I added the Aurebesh S.C.A.R. more for a bit of fun and printed with glow in the dark filament so it glows when you come in from the light. That is a separate component so can be printed without Yes the strip on the bottom was to cover a seam that cracked open after a miss-handle. (Oops) a quick fix for something that shouldn’t be there. I won’t be able to re-model and print a new one for a week or so but if these are the go to specs I’ll get to work on doing another one for sure. Thanks again for your input and time.

Took a quick moment in photoshop to adjust the CRL Photo of TJ, I hope that's not frowned upon or anything! I was just curious to see what our current CRL pics would look like tone adjusted to match the behind the scenes stuff more closely. If inappropriate, I can delete the post again of course.

I'll see if I can get around to it soon. I've been plagued a bit by things IRL, sorry for the holdup! I've also got this new shot of Kimzi, which shows the green on the uniform in a neutral light. This may mean we might as well look at getting the shade of green we use updated? Since it doesn't get much better than neutral light character shot. This would probably also confirm that the gray looking armor in the show is a result of color grading, and that it actually is black, like we've heard from Fraser. I think we should probably gather all updates we can and then update for as many attachments and changes as we can in one go?

Thank you very much sir I look forward to sharing my journey.

Thanks @IcyTrooper, I think I prefer the look of the single mount point too! So I only just noticed the Spec ops CRL doesn’t mention / require the 2” webbing comprising half the belt to be riveted to the plastic… not so the Pathfinder Scout ROTJ indeed. Probably better if it is glued so as not to stress the plastic. Am I good for Specialist to glue and avoid riveting the belt save for the clips to the TD? (I'll rivet it if it should be!)

Thank you for the input! Much appreciated! I read that it takes quite some time to harden…but I feel better now that I know you guys had the same „imprinting“ problems. Will probably store the armor for 2-3 full months before buffing and weathering and hopefully this time will be enough…because I do not have the space to store all the pieces individually (I got a big box and wrapped the pieces in felt to guard against scratches).

Next section. This should be a quick one: Revision 0 Lower Back Gloss black in color unless noted below. May be painted IAW the Color Scheme Guide. If used, all armor pieces must be painted using the Color Scheme Guide. Fitted centered and under the back plate and extends to below the top of the belt. The Lower Back and Abdomen side extensions, if any, may meet flush at the sides. Has a general “T” shape design with the top being flat across. Each top corner section is extended outward with the bottom edge angling and widening downward to the center section. There are two proportional horizontal recesses that may be present. The center section has a recessed area which has two raised circular ring type hose connectors positioned offset with the larger one located in the upper right corner and the smaller one located in the lower left corner. Connectors may be painted metallic black or silver. Two pistons may be present. If present, the ends must have the appearance of being attached to the lower back and extended to be hidden by the belt. Pistons shafts will be painted metallic black or silver. Lower back armor may be slightly weathered but must be uniform with the rest of the costume.

Ok I have that saved! Apologies for finally getting to this.

The hip armor mold and back waist armor mold have been completed.

I too had the issue with my Shadow Trooper paint job, what ever I wrapped my pieces in left a slight impression in the paint, it'll buff out with auto polish. Eventually it stopped doing it so I can assume the clear coat finally cured. I have noticed with the 2K Clear coat cans, if you don't get the "hardener" thoroughly mixed the clear coat will take a will to harden. That's why when I repainted my DT I used the Appliance Enamel, its hard as nails and cures that way in about 3-4 days. Don't stow the pieces for a while if you can help it, put them in a cool dry place with good airflow.

Getting closer!

I'm in agreement with what @RAIDER said, especially for the first two bullets. On the thrusters, I can see how the curved was derived, based on some of the panels where there is movement. Much of the other panels have them appearing like a track light shape, rather than curved. However, based on the pack I'd be okay with a slight curve on the thrusters for L1 and save the straight ones for L2 (Specialist) details. The only other thing that I see is that there appears to be a raised seam that goes down the middle bottom of jump pack. Is that where the two sides were put together?

Got ya! We can see if we can get some of the list updated @Blackwatch (and all). As for the Facebook vendors, you hit the nail on the head, starts with a message to get more info most of the time. Usually you won't see prices for vendors on their main pages.