All Activity

Thank you! That's very reassuring. Hopefully my GML agrees!

I dont feel we need to rework things like weapons and the box. Those are ultimately optional and well described. This may wrap us up! I made some final edits to the boot text to simplify it. Boots Tall black leather or leather-like material. Boots are dull in appearance. Similar design to tall German jack boots or tall motorcycle riding boots are acceptable for basic approval. Boot has a round, plain toe. Harness style or box toe boots are not to be approved. Ankle straps are to be removed. Typical jackboots are not acceptable as they are too short. The boot shaft must rise as close to the bottom of the knees as possible. The boot shall be as tall as required to achieve this appearance. See reference images. Boots have an adjustment strap on the out facing side of the boot. Adjustment strap has a square, silver adjustment buckle. Heels are made of rubber or similar material . Visible tread is permitted. Boots may contain zipper closure but must be concealed. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Boot shaft height should be 15" (38cm) or as required to stop just below the knees. Boots have a flap with adjustment strap with square silver buckle that starts at the middle back of the boot and wraps around to the outfacing sides. See reference images for shape of the adjustment flap and strap.

ive been out several days and im back now but ill be headed back out tomorrow so I want to get this put in place. Lets finish the forearms and move on. change log V2.1 Forearms may be present on both arms and consist of flat angled plates with facets joined at an angle at the outermost part of the arm. If the right shoulder and bicep are not present, the forearm is not present. The left forearm may also be missing. Forearms are symmetrical and mirrored left to right. Four allen-head screws are present on the lower longer trapezoid shape area on the forearm. A commpad featuring various depressions and shapes is mounted to the left forearm. One red and one blue acrylic rectangle approximately 3/4" (19 mm) x 1" (25mm) are present on the lower side of the commpad. These are not lighted. Lighting them is permitted but not preferred. The Com-pad has 4 low profile button head screws with centered flat slots. Flexible straps with a tan or white color, similar to the lower leg straps design, are fixed to the forearm white strapping, and closes with a white side release buckle with square opening on the side. The rest of the strap is white textile webbing. The receiving end of the side release clip is fixed to the longer trapezoid side. A white cylindrical torch approximately 3/4" (19mm) x 4" (100mm) is present on the inner edge of the left forearm. Inside of the forearm should be padded so it does not fit tightly to the arm. Forearms and straps are weathered to match the rest of the armor. Optional level 2 details: Commpad lights are not illuminated

i get paid tomorrow. thats all im sayin.........

as a model builder i always gloss varnished, weathered and let the weathering flatten it out. However we know that the armor was sprayed with a gloss paint and it has a shine to it, with a simple acrylic slopped in. its the most basic weathering we have seen in most of the movies / series. Im curious about the files and may buy them if you found them easy enough to rpint. I have the original mudtrooper files from Sean from several years back but files and shapes change. how did you find the files to print?

I do something similar. Great idea.

Sorry David, not sure how I missed your boot edits above despite replied to your post! But yes, boot edits are good too so I think we're good to go. Do we need to tackle any of the optionals, or are things like the chest box and hoses established enough that we don't need to redo that work?

its been several days since our last post, so lets finish the E11 holster discussion and ill get all the updates posted to the finalized text topic.

another simple solution is a free google account just for club use.I have one, my personal email is already over 100 emails a day with all the trash that comes in, i have club emails for all he important club notifications that come in.

printed in silver silk you are great for scratches to show through as they wear in

Thanks Tony I dont see anything jumping out at me, good luck with approval!

thanks for posting that link we have had those things break on the original molded plastic when the plastic wedge is just barely big enough to barely fit the strap in. Now i know where to go to just print more in petg

Scous are great, and trimming isnt bad. I acually use a belt sande and scribe and snap method for most of my armor, and i much prefer to buy raw untrimmed armor. Scouts are a fun build and other than the trimming all the sewing , building the boots and the helmet assembly I can do one in a long day. I paint what needs to be painted first and let that dry while Im working on the other stuff. Make sure you have your bund on hand thats going to help with your fitting. Remember, the belt is worn low on the hips, not up on your gut. Im GML here and my recent applicant kept hiking his way up on his gut like a belt to hold his pants up. start a WIP here so we can guide you,and my advice to you would be to build it to the L2 Speciast Level from the outset so you can get specialist approval here after basic approval.

Thanks for the assistance, it has been fixed now

Hey guys, bit of an update. Since last update, I have decided to go for the specialist version of the Death Trooper. My vest, pauldron, and ammo covers have been delivered from Jim Tripon, to which his communication and promptness with delivery I give the highest of compliments. I will have to sand down and paint the covers with gloss black which i'll hold off on doing for now. I also have spare belt pouches, though I will likely not need them as Jinta's belt comes with them. I have ordered the MP40 magazine pouches and 3d prints of the Death Trooper grenades. @AChanster has been incredibly helpful regarding information I need to know about jinta's kit. His level of detail on the ins and outs has been a tremendous boon, and has given me key details to tell Jinta before he makes the kit, he truly earns the distinction of Spec Ops. I will reach out to Jinta soon when i'm not so busy and include some details here about it. A question I have is regarding the HK G3 magazines that the specialist uses. I live in California, and it's currently illegal for me to ship the 30 round versions I was looking at here, or even own them. I noticed that the airsoft alternative is almost as cheap, and I could not find a resin cast alternative. Is it approvable to use airsoft magazines for the specialist vest?

Sent

Hey @lonnolan, Can you PM me your email address & IOC forums username? I can ask the IOC DL to look at your questions. Thanks

I'm tagging @Dropkick because he is in the DL messenger group and can personally hit up the IOC DL.

One thing that is getting crazy with all this, got a message out to my local garrison to start working on joining, got a message out to the head of it just in case, got a message out to the IOC page, got a message out to the IOC Public relations and then the IOC support emails, and one to the 501st support email, and the only reply I have gotten so far was the 501st support email giving me a more direct email for the IOC support

New bolts came in from Imperial Surplus! Gotta paint them black and make the circle openings on the plastic into square openings.

Nice!, Don't forget to paint your snaps black.

Hello Spec Ops, So last time I posted I went straight into working on trimming the backplate and the front plate which was the easiest thing to do and it was recommended by Walter that the Return Edge should be ranging at around 3mm which isn’t that bad but it’s better than nothing. Now, when it comes to the back plate I had to do some modification to make it match the 3D version of the back plate but with my own taste and if anyone wants to give it a shot. So here is my backplate what it looks like untrimmed and ready to be assembled: The first thing I got to was making my own rectangular greeble(the piece that goes on the lower left of the backplate and let me tell you it was a gigantic pain in the ass since I had to make sure the rectangular area was flat as a board cut so many small plastic pieces that would make the greeble come to life and got some of my fingers stabbed and grazed my lower finger with utility scissors(it was that hectic). Images on the diameter of the greeble if anyone is curious Next was the shoulder wedges since Walter didn’t give me the shoulder wedges or doesn’t make them to begin with, I was able to get his straps. Now I did have a 3D printed version of a shoulder wedge that I will link since I made my version of the shoulder wedge with this 3D part as a template and here is what it look like as a finish product - The left side is my shoulder wedge and the right is the 3D shoulder wedge: The link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4747985 Diameter of my shoulder wedge: Rear: 1mm Top and the sides : 3.4mm This is quick the center details were not that difficult where with that wooden tip I used a 3/16 wooden dowel and used about a 3 mm in length and I used a round gray plastic to make the other piece of the center details where it is between 3-4mm thick and 3.4mm long. Now this was something I had to do was made these studs looking things that are located on the upper part of the boxes where the filters would be located and there not that difficult to put in and there’s images of how thick they should be. Now here is what my back plate looks like so far and its been a tedious process but I’m almost done and soon I will be getting the side connectors from Walter soon either by next week or the week after but once the backplate is done its then on to the chest plate and creating a strapping system for the back and chest plate. However, while I wait for the side connectors I will be working on the shins and they shouldn’t be that difficult and thankfully I have the boots and I will be able to see how it goes more to come whenever I can. Also the respirator tubes are from the Sean Mudtrooper Files, the shins are also Sean Mudtrooper Files and this weekend I will have the shoulder bells and other pieces for the IST. By Next year I will be able to get the soft goods from Jim and get the biceps either from Walter or from Imperial Surplus I'll decide on that when I get closer to acquiring them.

I will also send my Binoc photos, on the outside they look great, I believe the width needs enlarged some.

I will send you what I got, the communication head is different from the one needed. Give me a few to find my photos. Also Hondo has a good image in the forums build section.

Thanks, had messages out to the facebook page and a few other spots, no response yet, will try the email