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I feel like the comm pad is fine in the current iteration of the text.

I agree with the requirement of certain color tones for the L1 details, but I think a suggestion of colors will help to guide individuals in the right direction. Red is a notoriously hard color to achieve standardization, photograph and perception amongst individuals. If we have evidence on the on-set colors it is possible to drill down on L2 details. We'll probably need to run through each part of the text section by section again so that we don't miss anything.

next item: Commpad. We know this is a different pad, its not the typical pad we used for years however we DO allow the standard TIE pad for level 1 approval. Are there any recommendations for changes here? Compad Rectangular communications pad with patterned painted details matching reference photo. Compad is worn with the four large, rectangular buttons pointing towards the wearer’s elbow. Compad is rectangular in shape and fits within the compad pocket window. Details of the compad differ from the standard TIE Pilot compad. Black buttons are smaller than the red and white buttons; the white button located adjacent to the button with multiple dimples may be a single piece, instead of split in two segments. Compad base color is silver, metallic grey, or weathered silver. Compad size is 2.5" x 2" (63.5mm x 50mm). Compad is fully visible above the glove, facing outward on the arm. For basic approval (Level 1) a standard TIE pilot style compad painted and worn to match game references may be accepted for use. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Compad shall be Inferno Squad style with correct button sizes, layout and colors. Two black buttons at the top of the pad are smaller than the white and red buttons. The white button adjacent to the button with holes/dimples is not split. Compad is moderately weathered / stained.

Since there is no futher discussion or input im going to lock the fabric discussion for the suit and post it to the finalized text topic.

Aaaand tada ! New gloves arrived ! Time to get back to the project

No worries Kevin, and thanks a million for checking in. It will be great to get this one over the line once all the parts are assembled 🙂

looks very good, where did you get them?

just wanted to give an update, i am just awaiting the soft parts to be finished so i can get started on building the kit. i am still 100% committed to the build, just unfortunately, i suck at sewing, so have to rely on the talents of others

All - super helpful thank you. Going to try the JB route and see if I can save it. If not, may try to just order a new one. just nervous to pull off the old silver things on the arm and replace with the nice metal ones… seems on there pretty solid.

1. The CRL states for basic approval, the recessed pill shape can be matte or metallic black. 2. Do you know what material it is printed out of? I used a medium viscosity CA glue for my 3d printed helmet and it bonds pretty quickly, even faster if you buy a kicker spray for it. Only thing is, if you use that, it will not be removable like E6000. 3. Are the metal ones from PhoenixProps? If so, I have the same kind just painted them according to the CRL. Without knowing how they were glued on, there is real risk of damage. E6000 is usually forgiving when it comes to removing parts. CA glue...not so much.

Hey @TKMilt Welcome! 1) Are you referring to the "elongated pill shaped recess in the bottom left hand corner"? This should be painted flat black, but only needed if going for level 2 Certification. Otherwise it is fine the way it is. I will let the other experts chime in on question 2 and 3. I used E6000 and JB Weld which I preferred as is black and matches the paint. The metal cylinders set look pretty legit to me. Not seeing any reason those would be approved.

Hi all! long time fan... I am working on a new to me kit that needs a little love and seek some help. (tapatalk doesn't seem to be working for this forum so hope my images work)! https://imgur.com/a/TRGvN2y 1. The chest piece seems to be missing a silver part... is this usually painted or a decal? If painted, is there a particular silver must use? 2. The abdomen armor is a 3D print it seems and has a lot of cracking, I am going to try to save it I think and glue it and try to touch up some of the paint, but before I do too much, does this look up to par? I am going to try to use E6000 or some super glue like I do for my ABS, but not sure if any concerns there 3. Lastly for the cylinders, they're currently plastic and one is kinda wonky / needs re-glued. They look like they're stuck on there pretty good, but I have a nice metal set that I am not sure would be approvable, if so, are there tips to taking off the previous glued plastic sets without breaking the armor? Sorry for all the questions! Thanks in advance.

Thanks to all. AND yes I corrected the title. I had scout on the brain. 😁 Im going to start making the body connections with webbing and snaps., then elastic for the arms armor.

i got hard drive magnets to use on mine. ive been using typical nDb magnets for years but hard drive magets are shockingly strong. I like Daniels block of wood idea. Ive yet to sort that outmyself, im not QUITE there yet, i have the parts and the magnets but havent had a chance to work on it.

check the ref pics. trim slowly, tape and check fit as you go. make it match the references as closely as you can.

The cutting has finally begun. Only had time for some basic trimming. Is the Mohawk width 3 inches? I have struggled to find what the appropriate width is.

Thank you! I'm debating between magnets or velcro or some other solution. I think I need to suit up and then go from there.

On mine, it is all elastic and Velcro. The only place I have nylon and Velcro is the part that connects the chest and back plates and then there is an offshoot elastic piece with Velcro that connects to the shoulder armor, it looks like a T.

The armor kit does not include a belt, but if you only need a belt, you can leave a note for it and I can give you a belt with a length of 110cm

I'd agree with snaps for the body & elastic for the shoulder bells. Also elastic for biceps & forearms

Hey nice work on this armor!! Q: On your website, does the "armor kit" option include the "belt kit"? Or do I have to buy it separately?

I used a mix of elastic and regular nylon straps. Used elastic where I thought it would be needed like for the shoulder to bichep. I used snaps in all cases, no direct glued straps or velcro. Allows for replacing the strap more easily if needed.

I know there are a ton of threads on FISD about strapping but it's hard to get a good cosolidated search result. I'd like to hear some preferences/opinions. My idea was to go with snaps/webbing for the body, then elastic for the arms/biceps the way justjoseph63 did it. Several other Garrison members suggest elastic for everything, since the elastic stretches with the body. I've also seen armor with the elastic just E6000 directly to the armor, no snaps etc.

After 7 rounds of mold making, the vacuum helmet is almost completed.

Congratulatioins on your DT approval @swman77 I'll be reading through this build thread & others are I'm planning on making the same journey & start a DT build of my own