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just wanted to give an update, i am just awaiting the soft parts to be finished so i can get started on building the kit. i am still 100% committed to the build, just unfortunately, i suck at sewing, so have to rely on the talents of others

All - super helpful thank you. Going to try the JB route and see if I can save it. If not, may try to just order a new one. just nervous to pull off the old silver things on the arm and replace with the nice metal ones… seems on there pretty solid.

1. The CRL states for basic approval, the recessed pill shape can be matte or metallic black. 2. Do you know what material it is printed out of? I used a medium viscosity CA glue for my 3d printed helmet and it bonds pretty quickly, even faster if you buy a kicker spray for it. Only thing is, if you use that, it will not be removable like E6000. 3. Are the metal ones from PhoenixProps? If so, I have the same kind just painted them according to the CRL. Without knowing how they were glued on, there is real risk of damage. E6000 is usually forgiving when it comes to removing parts. CA glue...not so much.

Hey @TKMilt Welcome! 1) Are you referring to the "elongated pill shaped recess in the bottom left hand corner"? This should be painted flat black, but only needed if going for level 2 Certification. Otherwise it is fine the way it is. I will let the other experts chime in on question 2 and 3. I used E6000 and JB Weld which I preferred as is black and matches the paint. The metal cylinders set look pretty legit to me. Not seeing any reason those would be approved.

Hi all! long time fan... I am working on a new to me kit that needs a little love and seek some help. (tapatalk doesn't seem to be working for this forum so hope my images work)! https://imgur.com/a/TRGvN2y 1. The chest piece seems to be missing a silver part... is this usually painted or a decal? If painted, is there a particular silver must use? 2. The abdomen armor is a 3D print it seems and has a lot of cracking, I am going to try to save it I think and glue it and try to touch up some of the paint, but before I do too much, does this look up to par? I am going to try to use E6000 or some super glue like I do for my ABS, but not sure if any concerns there 3. Lastly for the cylinders, they're currently plastic and one is kinda wonky / needs re-glued. They look like they're stuck on there pretty good, but I have a nice metal set that I am not sure would be approvable, if so, are there tips to taking off the previous glued plastic sets without breaking the armor? Sorry for all the questions! Thanks in advance.

Thanks to all. AND yes I corrected the title. I had scout on the brain. 😁 Im going to start making the body connections with webbing and snaps., then elastic for the arms armor.

i got hard drive magnets to use on mine. ive been using typical nDb magnets for years but hard drive magets are shockingly strong. I like Daniels block of wood idea. Ive yet to sort that outmyself, im not QUITE there yet, i have the parts and the magnets but havent had a chance to work on it.

check the ref pics. trim slowly, tape and check fit as you go. make it match the references as closely as you can.

The cutting has finally begun. Only had time for some basic trimming. Is the Mohawk width 3 inches? I have struggled to find what the appropriate width is.

Thank you! I'm debating between magnets or velcro or some other solution. I think I need to suit up and then go from there.

On mine, it is all elastic and Velcro. The only place I have nylon and Velcro is the part that connects the chest and back plates and then there is an offshoot elastic piece with Velcro that connects to the shoulder armor, it looks like a T.

The armor kit does not include a belt, but if you only need a belt, you can leave a note for it and I can give you a belt with a length of 110cm

I'd agree with snaps for the body & elastic for the shoulder bells. Also elastic for biceps & forearms

Hey nice work on this armor!! Q: On your website, does the "armor kit" option include the "belt kit"? Or do I have to buy it separately?

I used a mix of elastic and regular nylon straps. Used elastic where I thought it would be needed like for the shoulder to bichep. I used snaps in all cases, no direct glued straps or velcro. Allows for replacing the strap more easily if needed.

I know there are a ton of threads on FISD about strapping but it's hard to get a good cosolidated search result. I'd like to hear some preferences/opinions. My idea was to go with snaps/webbing for the body, then elastic for the arms/biceps the way justjoseph63 did it. Several other Garrison members suggest elastic for everything, since the elastic stretches with the body. I've also seen armor with the elastic just E6000 directly to the armor, no snaps etc.

After 7 rounds of mold making, the vacuum helmet is almost completed.

Congratulatioins on your DT approval @swman77 I'll be reading through this build thread & others are I'm planning on making the same journey & start a DT build of my own

I personally don't see any need to either require or disallow Velcro. This is a 3D modelled costume, and as far as I'm aware no one ever spotted any Velcro peeking through, created by an extra diligent 3D artist! Again I'd be happy to give Velcro as an example of how certain features could be fixed, without making it a requirement. So long as the aesthetics are right, what is going on underneath doesn't much matter. With that in mind, just a couple more similar tweaks below. Also yes, I'm happy to close off the helmet again. Flight suit One-piece flight suit is made out of canvas or similar heavy, textured material. The front zipper is covered by an approximately 2" (50mm) wide piece of leather or leather-like material with vertical lines that attaches with Velcro over the zipper (eg. using Velcro). Approximately 1.5" (38mm) tall mandarin collar with a chevron shaped, left-over-right Velcro closure. An approximately 2.5" (63.5mm) red embroidered or PVC Inferno Squad emblem, on a black background, is present on both shoulders. The shoulders of the suit are slightly padded. A compad pocket that properly fits the compad is placed above the left glove so that the pocket is not hidden, and faces outward on the arm. On the left bicep below the cog emblem, there is a code cylinder pocket with no flap, and vertical stitching dividing it into pen sleeves. No code cylinders are present. There is a piece of nylon strapping leather or leather-like material sewn below the pen sleeve openings and is the same length as the top of the pocket. The bottom front corner of the pocket is cut off at an angle bevel on the side pointing in view direction, with the broader upside forming the border of the pen sleeves. The right sleeve has a cargo pocket below the cog emblem. The right arm pocket has a chevron flap. Two large chest pockets and two large front pockets with no zippers or flaps are present below the belt There are no leg pockets below the knees. There are two red stripes that run up the right side of the flight suit. The first begins at the bottom of the right leg and continues up to the right armpit. The second begins at the right wrist and stops at the bottom of the arm pocket. The stripe then continues above the arm pocket, behind the patch emblem to the shoulder seam. The red arm stripe stops at the top of the shoulder seam, but continues up and over the shoulder as a black stripe. There are two black stripes that run up the left side of the flight suit. The first begins at the bottom of the left leg and continues up to the left armpit. The second begins at the left wrist and stops at the bottom of the arm pocket. The stripe then continues above the arm pocket, behind the patch emblem to the shoulder seam. The black arm stripe stops at the top of the shoulder seam, but continues up and over the shoulder to the collar. For basic approval this can be accomplished with topstitching. The black portion of this stripe stops at the collar. A piece of leather or leather-like material is sewn below the pen sleeve openings and is the same length as the top of the pocket. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Patches are vinyl on textile with no edge border. If twill is used for the patch material the fabric texture will be vertically oriented. The black stripes on top of the shoulders shall be a material matching texture and weave of the red stripe. A thick textile such as textured canvas is most accurate for the flightsuit's construction as it is a thick materials with a "solid" structure. A "loose", soft or lightweight material is not accurate. If features such as an elasticated waistband cause the fabric to bunch and fold, the suit will not meet level two certification.

Ok thanks for that insight.

Congratulations Jed.

Congratulations on your approval. I would not worry about the "weathering" of the silver. The CRL says "slightly weathered with black matt paint" the definition of "slightly" is open to interpretation. The Anovos helmet (made from having a screen used helmet) is pretty much the standard as far as paint scheme reference.

Thanks Matt thas my plan .to make it removeable. my Visitor rifle got rebuilt before I took it out for Patrol the first time and I make sure that scope came off. it wont fit in my gun case otherwise.

Returning to the helmet proposal above, is there any further discussion on it? I would like to lock this and move on if there is no further discussion.

Congratulations @swman77 Looks great!!