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Hey James, Let me look into this. I see you have full detachment access here, but your request is on the legion website. I'll have a chat with @IcyTrooper to see if there is something that we can do here to help you with your request.

So I got my Imperial Army trooper V1/V2 approved a few months ago and the costume/picture is shown on my profile, but the detachment badge is not. This has happened before and it was never clear who's responsibility it was to do this cause I got conflicting answers last time I asked. So is there someone here who can fix that? https://www.501st.com/members/displaymember.php?userID=37006&costumeID=562

Nathan does an amazing job of weathering his kit. For your helmet this might help. The same technique will work for the forearm cylinders. For your armor this will help as well Ideally, you will want to use acrylic paints. This provides two benefits... it's not permanent and can be washed off if you ever want to look like you just walked out of an Emperial Quartermaster. I also highly recommend that you use flat black or the Tamiya TS40 for the recess details mentioned in the CRL. Pay attention to this because not all recesses are painted. I used the same method on mine, but instead of a brush, I used an airbrush with light gray and a damp rag to wipe down the excess wash. Best of luck and the best advice I can give you this is not like a sand trooper or mudtrooper. When it comes to weathering DTs, less is more. Keep it conservative.

Excellent stuff, it feels good to have a lot of that ironed out. Are there any outstanding issues that you can see from the JRS side @Wingman?

What weatherstripping is everyone using to do the helmet border ?

IST armor . But I found the sight

Hi Luke! Welcome! Yup no CRL just yet tho @stevechewbacca has made alot of progress on his build (seems to need just a few more details wrapped up). Give his thread a look. It might help you on your journey. Best wishes!

Managed to print out better stuff for the ones that needed sharpening up. Meeting with seamstress on Thursday this week to check fit of ( completed ) jacket and ( partially completed ) trousers to see where we stand on fitness following the so far 30lb weight loss . Hopefully the jacket will fit well enough to get cleared as otherwise it'd have to be totally redone and obvs id compensate them for whats been done and then sort stuff out or call it a day. I didnt know JT did stuff at the time so if this doesnt pan out ill speak to him. Just a bit of a disaster

Hello! I am putting together this post as I have taken interest in making the flametrooper from the Jedi Fallen Order game, I have seen that there isn’t a CRL for it yet, though I see one is in the works, and I am willing to also go ahead and help as much as I could with getting one of those sorted out. I have discussed the costume with a few others as well, seeing a lot of similarities with the snowwie costume but of course things like the helmet, backpack, and colouring is different. I would love to work on this costume and get folks opinions on it, I also have a few pictures of said trooper. Thank you.

What kind of paint should I use for weathering? The CRL lists four different options, and what I have currently is metallic silver and flat black acrylic paints, which I have already used on some of my helmet details. I want to make sure my helmet weathering matches my armor weathering so I will probably do it all at the same time. What was used on the costume model in the CRL photos?

Sorry been super busy at work the last few, if you still need pictures of the strapping I can get them next weekend, in other updates my armour arrived from imperial surplus so will be getting that together soon

Everything is looking good so. Regards to the placement of your abs and lower back, best to put the top front and back armor on, the adjust the abs and back to get the correct placement

Dear all, It has been a while. Due to personal situations I had to put the build on hold. But now I've picked up where I left. I continued with the fitment of the lower portion of the armor and in the meanwhile collected the correct tools etc. I was wondering if the location of the plating is in the right position. In these pictures the crotch and butt plate pieces are not connected yet to the back/stomach plates. I started the construction of the harness for the thighs. When the harness is finished & the thighs connected I will continue with the belt. I need to learn how to sew for the pouches. Have a nice weekend! And see you in the next update!

Thank you! That's very reassuring. Hopefully my GML agrees!

I dont feel we need to rework things like weapons and the box. Those are ultimately optional and well described. This may wrap us up! I made some final edits to the boot text to simplify it. Boots Tall black leather or leather-like material. Boots are dull in appearance. Similar design to tall German jack boots or tall motorcycle riding boots are acceptable for basic approval. Boot has a round, plain toe. Harness style or box toe boots are not to be approved. Ankle straps are to be removed. Typical jackboots are not acceptable as they are too short. The boot shaft must rise as close to the bottom of the knees as possible. The boot shall be as tall as required to achieve this appearance. See reference images. Boots have an adjustment strap on the out facing side of the boot. Adjustment strap has a square, silver adjustment buckle. Heels are made of rubber or similar material . Visible tread is permitted. Boots may contain zipper closure but must be concealed. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Boot shaft height should be 15" (38cm) or as required to stop just below the knees. Boots have a flap with adjustment strap with square silver buckle that starts at the middle back of the boot and wraps around to the outfacing sides. See reference images for shape of the adjustment flap and strap.

ive been out several days and im back now but ill be headed back out tomorrow so I want to get this put in place. Lets finish the forearms and move on. change log V2.1 Forearms may be present on both arms and consist of flat angled plates with facets joined at an angle at the outermost part of the arm. If the right shoulder and bicep are not present, the forearm is not present. The left forearm may also be missing. Forearms are symmetrical and mirrored left to right. Four allen-head screws are present on the lower longer trapezoid shape area on the forearm. A commpad featuring various depressions and shapes is mounted to the left forearm. One red and one blue acrylic rectangle approximately 3/4" (19 mm) x 1" (25mm) are present on the lower side of the commpad. These are not lighted. Lighting them is permitted but not preferred. The Com-pad has 4 low profile button head screws with centered flat slots. Flexible straps with a tan or white color, similar to the lower leg straps design, are fixed to the forearm white strapping, and closes with a white side release buckle with square opening on the side. The rest of the strap is white textile webbing. The receiving end of the side release clip is fixed to the longer trapezoid side. A white cylindrical torch approximately 3/4" (19mm) x 4" (100mm) is present on the inner edge of the left forearm. Inside of the forearm should be padded so it does not fit tightly to the arm. Forearms and straps are weathered to match the rest of the armor. Optional level 2 details: Commpad lights are not illuminated

i get paid tomorrow. thats all im sayin.........

as a model builder i always gloss varnished, weathered and let the weathering flatten it out. However we know that the armor was sprayed with a gloss paint and it has a shine to it, with a simple acrylic slopped in. its the most basic weathering we have seen in most of the movies / series. Im curious about the files and may buy them if you found them easy enough to rpint. I have the original mudtrooper files from Sean from several years back but files and shapes change. how did you find the files to print?

I do something similar. Great idea.

Sorry David, not sure how I missed your boot edits above despite replied to your post! But yes, boot edits are good too so I think we're good to go. Do we need to tackle any of the optionals, or are things like the chest box and hoses established enough that we don't need to redo that work?

its been several days since our last post, so lets finish the E11 holster discussion and ill get all the updates posted to the finalized text topic.

another simple solution is a free google account just for club use.I have one, my personal email is already over 100 emails a day with all the trash that comes in, i have club emails for all he important club notifications that come in.

printed in silver silk you are great for scratches to show through as they wear in

Thanks Tony I dont see anything jumping out at me, good luck with approval!

thanks for posting that link we have had those things break on the original molded plastic when the plastic wedge is just barely big enough to barely fit the strap in. Now i know where to go to just print more in petg