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@productionsbykyle My apologies actually, for some reason, I thought that you posted on someone else’s build thread. You are fine posting it here, but if you have several questions about different parts, then it is definitely easier to have everything on one post, rather than spread over several.

Thanks! Today I painted the base coat and picked up the fabric dyes, paints, and natural looking sponges. I'm very excited to keep charging ahead!

I apologize. I was thinking since I called out the Calves in the title and that Chaos said he was planning to start a memo on the calves, that this would be a good place to ask. Please let me know if I should post here or create an additional thread.

that is very exciting that all the files have been given the green light. i will start printing them today to move on to next stage of it all

posting pics of my Galactic Armory DeathTrooper helmet to see if it can be approved with overall shape of it and following CRL guidelines. i dont have a pic of me wearing it but since its at 100 percent scaling it fits fine for a 22 in circ head but a little tight his the nose ridge sits up against mine with no padding.

Thanks!

Congrats on the approval!!

Thanks for the explanation, @Chaos! At the end we may want to make sure our text doesn't overlap/duplicate between that other text we had, but that can be done at the end. Your text is good for the Shoulder Bell Armor with some small changes: Shoulder Bell/Bicep Armor Gloss black in color unless noted below. May be painted in accordance with the Color Scheme Guide. If used, all armor pieces must be painted using the Color Scheme Guide. Proportional to the rest of the costume. The shoulder bells may be slightly weathered but must be uniform with the rest of the costume. One on each shoulder and are not interchangeable. Each shoulder bell is a mirror image of the other. Overlaps the bicep armor or may be incorporated with the bicep as one single piece. There is a notch for the bicep armor greeblie in the front lower edge. There is a raised beveled circular detail on the outside of the shoulder bell. (See CRL Photo for reference) Inside the detail is a raised circle ring which has a flat disc painted metallic black or silver. There is a raised cylinder in the middle of the disc painted metallic black or silver. There is a vertical recess approximately 0.75" (19.05mm) wide along the inside edges of the front and rear faces. This band is offset slightly inward from the inside edge.

Yep those are good. We can make tweaks if we see anything that slipped through the cracks, but that usually comes when we get to the suit up phase and we are trying to make the pictures perfect.

Welcome, Erick! Looks like a good start! It may need a black paint coating to get it to the gloss finish, but the belt boxes look good since they have that longer length.

Hello, Luke! Glad to see you onboard here. Give it a shot and we'll help you along the way!

Hey thanks! That’s perfectly good to know and it’s one thing to stress less about lol

Hi Kyle. Probably best to start a build thread for your kit so we can answer questions there. Many have used JB Weld plastic bonder for bonding the armour pieces and attaching greeblies. The front of the shin is bonded and then the gaps will need to be filled with Bondo or some similar type of filler. Careful when putting the shins on, as they don’t open as easily as ABS pieces and can easily crack along the front part when opening the back.

I used Alclad2 Hot metal paints https://alclad2.com/finishes/hot-metal/

Hi Matt. I ordered a Jim Tripon undersuit as a two piece set and all the gaskets are included: elbows, knees, shoulders, neck...everything. From what I remember, his suits should be approvable to Level 2.

Sorry yes, I did check that through and thought I replied already, but clearly not! All looks great on the models you shared. When painted up correctly, that should be perfect.

Hello all! I’ve been doing my research on soft parts and armor and so far I’ve made a list of everything I need starting off with armor we’re going with 850 Armor Works for the armor i have a galactic armory death trooper helmet with me but i don’t know if it’ll be approvable. If not I can use it for practice and go with the 850 helmet The undersuit I’m going with Jim tripons I have to ask him if he does knee gaskets and a neck seal i have a pair of KeepTroopings boots with the leather covers and I’m very impressed with the quality of them as for gloves I’m going with Endor finders for helmet gonna try my best to rig up the voice box chatter and the LED lights along with helmet fans. I think I covered most of it. Let me know if I’m missing anything.

Aloha Spec Ops, I'm Luke, one of the Event Coordinators for the Pacific Outpost in Hawaii. I've done 30 troops in my Scout and decided to retire it after my ANH Vader got approved since it started to yellow due to the Hawaii sun. I was considering turning it into a shadow scout but this build looks really cool so I wanted to give it a try. I'll basically be painting & dyeing my Scout kit to match the proposed CRL. I think the boots will be the most work but still shouldn't be that bad. I'm planning to rattle can khaki and then sponge on green and the darker colors, then softly sand to show the white under on a few high points. I'll need to dye the straps, cod, boxes, and re-add the details.

Hello all I'm going to use this as my build thread. My kit is CAP from my shop and pulled in black HIPS .09 and .06 I have the under armor and gloves (black rubber) and leather. I'm going to sew my own neck seal. Boots might be Crowprops. not sure. Always willing to listen to advice. enjoy the photos! https://photos.app.goo.gl/o35ACoMzhHDTtcbx8 https://photos.app.goo.gl/FBGcZPFd2HMhYo9i9 https://photos.app.goo.gl/12Bv1aDm2bFnPoP77 https://photos.app.goo.gl/W9NEGEtoB7YCZJiN7 https://photos.app.goo.gl/Y1nEBnPVndG2doWo7 https://photos.app.goo.gl/6wpCU9vkroLrhFCDA https://photos.app.goo.gl/QMvQiKzDBHTcG8Mu9

Picked up the rubbing and polishing compounds over the weekend. Going to attempt the clear coat fix this weekend when i'm officially on vacation. In the mean time, I grabbed some Tamiya Gloss Black airbrush paint for the last part of the face to paint with a fellow garrison member at his place. Another member was kind enough to print out the vinyl E-11D decals and will be shipping them to me. Big thanks to @Chaos for the files. Which leads me to my next question: what paints did any of you use to get the scorched look on your blasters?

Evening @Blackwatch! My apologies for the delay in responding - I didn't see your post as I have been working on getting the costume ready. I appreciate all your feedback! We (Renegade Squad) don't have a local GML, so the group is helping me get stuff together and giving me feedback on what has been approved in the past. I have a test troop in January, at which point I've been told we'll take all the pictures and submit them to the Badlands Garrision GML for approval. I hear you, jumping around between CRLs can be confusing. Please pardon my enthusiasm! I'll limit this thread to the Comic IAT CRL for now, and when I look to do an Andor/Aldhani version next year I'll start a different thread. I know the majority of that CRL is different, but when I typed the original post I was looking at a kind of "build the helmet, use it for now" plan so I could get my TX designation and officially troop while building the Andor/Aldhani version over the next year before rolling it out at our Comic-Con troop in fall of 2025. IAT (Comic) Status: Helmet - just finished printing (with all greebles), will be picking it up this week. The sanding and painting begins! Interior padding and chin cup also assembled. Googles - arrived Coveralls - ordered, in transit (I live in Canada, so the postal strike is disrupting a lot of deliveries). Patches - ordered, in transit Montana Gold Spray - ordered, in transit Gloves - I had these already from work, just waiting on the spray paint to colour them Web Harness - straps and tri-glides arrived. Just waiting on spray paint for tri-glides. Belt - arrived Pouches - arrived. I got the two cuff pouches for the front and two smaller pouches (to fit the four required small pouches), as well as a variety of other pouches for the back/sides. Hopefully most of them will be good as I tried to stay with the no buckle/zipper theme, but look like pouches a trooper would wear. Boots - The search continues... 100% if anything is going to stall the build, this is the item that is going to do it. Question: What are your thoughts of wearing an officer jackboot (say the style approved under the Andor/Aldhani version, which is commercially available) and blousing the coveralls over top of the boot at the 8" height using blousing bands inside to make them look like 8" boots? (Optional) E-11 Blaster - printing this week, then the sanding and painting begins... (Optional) E-11 Holster - I have a template, will be making it out of olive green nylon to stay with look of belt/pouches Question: for this CRL, is it to be worn on the left or right side? General Question: How important is it that all the components are the same colour of olive drab? I ask because there are shade differences, especially between materials (goggle elastic vs pouch nylon vs cloth fabric vs plastic components, etc.). While I am spraying the helmet (was PLA grey), gloves (were black), and tri-glides (were black), I am hesitant to spray everything. I don't want it to end up looking like a monochromatic "green plastic army man". I'll post pictures in the next week or so... I am just waiting on having all the bits together (as opposed to pictures of me in normal street clothes wearing the different elements. Thanks again for your feedback and support!

And approved! TX -6353 reporting for duty!!

Hello there. Getting ready to start the calves. Is it a similar procedure, just gluing the front edge together of each and forming them around my calves while wearing the boots? Additionally, any advice on getting the small greeblies on the from of the left calf?

First update of the day! As I said last night, today I began wet sanding the spot putty with 220 grit sand paper: I did this in the sink to prevent a mess outside In the garage. When you're doing this, you want to apply pretty consistent pressure throughout, assuring an even and level surface. The end result will look something like this: The goal is not to remove ALL of the red putty, rather to get the surface to be even and smooth. Wherever you see leftover putty, there are gouges, scratches, and holes that it has filled. If you zoom into the areas, you can see the seams, layer lines, and some swirly areas from the electric sander. I patted the helmet down with a towel, and let it air dry. Once I was satisfied, I hit the helmet with a layer of gray rustoleum primer: Once this dries fully, I will go ahead and apply more spot putty to areas that need it, as well as tackle the detail areas with a small file, to help preserve the sharp lines and detail.