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JerryT

501st SpecOps[TX]
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JerryT last won the day on May 10 2015

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About JerryT

501st Info

  • Name
    Jerry
  • 501st ID
    50413
  • 501st Garrison
    Central Florida

SpecOps Info

Support Info

  • Supporter Datestamp
    2014-2017

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  1. This may be tabu, but I used automotive vinyl wrap material for my highlighted areas. I figured I'd give it a try and if it didn't look good I could simply peal it off. It did turn out really well. I used 3M gun metal wrap. I made a template for the shapes and when I applied it, I gently hit it with a heat gun and it conformed perfectly. It has a sort of semi-gloss appearance. I even used it for the striping on the biceps and other areas. Those I did seal down with clear lacquer. Here is a quick photo of it, pay no attention to the shoulder bells, I put them on backwards...
  2. Welcome to the legion my friend!
  3. Drop these guys an e-mail tkarmor@hotmail.com It's where I got mine. I'm not sure when they are doing their next run but I think the quality is second to none. The size runs a bit large but easy to trim down.
  4. Looks like you used the same backpack frame I did. It may help if you bring it a bit higher on your back. I have the bottom of the frame rest on my belt. Also I attached the ammo pouch to the backpack strap on the the left shoulder. Here are some photos to show you what I mean.
  5. Hi Philip, If you ned any advice just let us know.
  6. TrooperBay.com has some parts that you can use. I got a few things from there. (Seed trays, and radio face plate) I used an army surplus backpack frame I found on e-bay for 5 dollars . and the rest I just used found objects like PVC pipe, a toilet cistern valve, project boxes from Radio Shack and foot powder bottles.
  7. Looks Great! The pack will be a lot more comfortable higher up on your back. The top of the frame on mine rests across the top of the square part of my back armor. It takes some weight off my shoulders.
  8. Very cool! Thanks for sharing!
  9. Todd is right, I didn't use clearcoat either. Although, when I made the tube "Hash Marks " I created them in my computer and then printed them out on water transfer decal paper. After I applied them I did spray on a clear coat over them to seal and protect, that worked really well since it was a small area. I masked around the gold stripes on the tubes when I did it to protect the rest of the helmet and coated the entire gold area so it would look even and smooth. Be careful though, some clear paints change the way the undercolor looks. It could make it look darker or dull. I mixed my own and airbrushed it on.
  10. Nice Work so far! Gorgeous dogs by the way! The stripe on my helmet is 1 5/8 inches wide. I used the space between the eyes as starting point and then simply adjusted it until I thought it looked right. The gold stripe on the side tubes is 1 1/2 inches, Again I adjusted them until I though they looked correct. Just a note: when you do spray them, mask off the helmet as "tight" as you can, I found that the overspray tends to find it's way though the smallest gap in the masking. When I first finished mine and removed all of the masking I had a fine coating of gold sparkles in spots... easy to clean off, but a pain. Can't wait to see yours finished!
  11. I used Rustoleum Gold Rush Metallic #7270 for my Nova. Covers nice and looks great.
  12. For what it's worth I like to use Plastruct Plastic Weld on my plastic parts. It works really well on ABS and I also use it on styrene. I try to stay away from the cyanoacrylate glue because they can gas off and cause fogging. I started to use it on my black armor and it started to mark it. Keep in mind that the Plastic Weld makes a pretty permanent bond, it melts the plastic together.
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