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What's the price range you're looking at when you make more of these? Just for curiosity's sake.

So DT lower leg in process. This is no where near finished, just giving it a general base to be built/shaped off of. Now I'm certain the 501st will deny this if there is no muscle shape in it, per the screen used piece. I tried to angle it to give that look, but I think ill have to straighten it (I am holding it shut in the pics because it isn't heated for shaping yet, do straightening the top to get rid of the cone shape shouldn't be much of a problem). So since the muscle i...s an issue, and the bottom of this when put on is too much a long oval at the sides, I will lose the tightness and make it straighter at the top, heat gun the sides and give it a subtle pinch at the bottom to both give a muscle shape AND give it that room at the front so my ankles can move freely. Thoughts?thankfully the back is ok in terms of shape. My plan is to make the back overlapped by one side and velcroed just like the OTTK calfs, and it will be covered by the rear cover strip (I can't think of how else they got in there). In the last pic it is shown with my thigh front piece. It is curved inward more (the thigh piece), and when put on my thigh it vecomes wider. It majes my thigh piece look real small in tge pic. Now I'm debating whether I should submit this to the 501st, or just make it an accurate/fun costume. I'll at least get it as close as I can with these signs, and if it works for tgem, then hey that's awesome! If not, at least I made a really close costume

I have some info from looking at the Prop Den's shared photo album of the DT (HD quality). Here is the link. https://www.facebook...?type=3 I am documenting my entire DT process in my thread on this forum and will share what info I have here if you would like Mark (not sure if you have to be a 501st member to put together a costume to submit to the 501st for possible approval of a CRL, but I know that you need approval to be one) If you need anything let me know! Abdomen- (for basic approval) Shape: Will be composed of various panels. The base will have 2 sudden angles next to the center column that go with the body (they are not round in nature, all except for the very ends of the abdomen, which has side panels which curve with the body). In the center is a rounded box located at the very bottom of the abdomen that is fairly thick. The box has a small engraved circle at the bottom left corner. Above the box will be a grill (which is the center column. The center column is thick and elevated from the base of the ab due to the thickness) with 2 sets of notches along the bottom of each grill bar. There are 24 notches total, and 4 notches per bar (2 on the left and 2 on the right) that look more like small squares. The grill has 7 visible bars (with one hidden one located behind the top of the rounded box). Over the ends of the grill are 2 pieces of trim that covers the bars (one on each end), but it ends in a slanted cut just a little bit passed the top of the rounded box. At the base of the center column (the grill) is another piece of trim. The trim will stop right at the side panels that are directly next to the rounded box (the panels overlap the trim, which is why it would be easier if it just stopped right above on top of it). The top left and right portions of the abdomen have small groups of parallel lines (more like grills) that extend down to the bottom panels that are next to the rounded box. There are 4 segments of the grills on each side, and they run at an angle towards the center column. There is a small piece of trim that is located in between them and the center column that is only mostly hidden by the chest armor. Cod Piece- (For basic approval) The cod piece is very similar to Darth Vader's cod piece, only difference is that it does not have some trim in the indentation in the center, and it is made out of plastic and not padding. The center indentation will be U shaped, but the top will be hidden by the belt of the Death Trooper. The very bottom of this piece (crotch area) has rounded egges and looks more like a sideways D.

Thanks Mark!

The center box on the bottom should be level with the rest of the abdomen, and level with the left and right panels next to it (so the box should be considerably shorter). Along with there being 2 trim pieces along the grill area. 1 trim piece is on the edges of the grill, and the other is next to it on the base. But besides that, keep up the good work. Also, if you look at the Prop Den's HD ref images, there aren't any panels on the top left and right of the grill, that area is bare to the base, but on the far left and rights are paralell lines (4 rows to be exact). There are panels on the bottom though. Take a look at these.

Thank you Mark! This helps! Do they adjust the straps themselves at all (like the straps under the arms and the ones on the shoulders), or are they just hook points for the ammo belt? Trying to figure out if I should just make duplicates of the d rings with the for sale signs (it would be missing the adjustable part, but helps with weight as well on the armor), and track down the top buckle.

DT FOR 501st update. I am working on the legs now, will get back to the abdomen later. I think the order I'll do it in is: legs, abdomen, arms, chest. Then I'll source the smaller detail pieces later, but first I want to see this actually become a Stormtrooper (every time I've tried, I never got far and failed). I will better shape the thigh tomorrow; needs more curvature especially on he left side for it needs to curve with the thigh. The whole piece is turned a bit to the right right now, but hopefully it won't be that far turned in the end, this is mainly a fitting test, and it's hard when your leg armor is spread out farther than it should be instead of close to your leg.

Hey guys! I may need a little help identifying certain parts. I have looked over Marktoots thread, but no names are given to what the parts are called, and I really would like to find original parts for this. Could someone tell me what parts the D ring and buckle are on the shoulder straps? The originals were found in that thread but again, no names were mentioned so I need to know what they are called and where I can track some down Thanks guys!

How would a belt buckle like this work for the bottom part of the strap buckle? The only difference is that it has rounded edges, but do you think this would work for a basic approval once we have a CRL up and running (if course this would need to be painted aluminum)? http://www.ebay.com/...HcAAOSwZVlXsLOz I'm hoping we'll have the basic approval in the CRL as well, just like the Kylo Ren CRL.

Thanks Griffin I just made and shaped the cod piece with a heat gun, and so far the armor is going smoothly (lol now that I've said that, it's going to start going downhill xD). More to come. I couldn't see what the cod piece looks like under the belt (the belt hides the top) so I based it's width off of the FOTK's (knowing that the width on theirs is short) Next bit is sanding to make it rounder at the edges

*Update* Stepping back from the Abdomen, but will need to redo a section on it to get the right details. I will start working on the crotch area and the legs. For the crotch armor it looks just like Vader's foam padding he had, so I will be basing the hidden areas off of his armor's general shape possibly. Also it looks like the butt armor looks pretty similar to the OT TK armor, so that will be my base.

Thanks! I'l see if I can find one here, I haven't heard of one being here. Speaking of the Death Trooper armor, I have a lead. The triangular d ring on the DT is a tactical belt buckle. Now I don't know what brand the screen used one is, but it is military or air force possibly. My dad gave me a tactical buckle after I told him I found some close enough on eBay, but needed some that are more accurate. This pretty much hits it on the mark in terms of preportion and shape Thanks dad! Now the only inaccuracy thus far is that it is rounded. But that should be able to pass basic approval... once the 501st gets a CRL up. Only things needing to be done are: removal of center adjusting bar, and paint with possibly rustoleum aluminum paint. For tracking down the company, it says "The Wilderness Tactical prod LLC, Phoenix AZ", then a phone number. Not sure if this company is still in bussiness, but if anyone has more leads let me know! Also it is a thick metal buckle, and a little heavy, so any advice on how to make sure this gets attached to the plastic armor once it's finished would be amazing. I still need to know who sells the main harness that goes on top of this is. Somehow people have been finding some really good harness buckles, so any info on companies would be appreciated Darth Emphatic, what do you think?

Btw, does anyone have a good sources for inexpensive plastic sheets? I have gotten recommendations for buying huge plastic ABS sheets for this, over constantly going to the Hardware store to buy smaller more expensive plastic signs. Also I have been trying to figure out how I am going to tackle the back part. I know that I will be able to take a sign and bend it into a straight but curved shape (luckily the back isn't rounded like a dome), but it's the back box I am more concerned about. I was thinking that I could make a sculpt of it out of foam/clay (using the same sculpting method that Jimerriqui over at the White Armor forums uses), then home vac form myself a box with it. Then I could attach it to the already made back armor section, but then it's all a matter of attachment. I don't think gluing with Loctite will be the best solution, because on the abdomen I tried separating some parts but the top layer started ripping open the bottom layer (it shows just how strong this superglue is). But the box on the screen used piece looks to be part of the back armor, like it transitions into it. I'm not sure about permanent attachment due to the nature of the different plastic's thickness (the signs are thicker than vac formed pieces. vac formed pieces are thin as you guys know), and if it cracks, I would need to be able to replace it with a fresh box. So here's the idea: I could somehow made it attachable with a slot system of some sorts. There would be some cut outs in the back armor, and I could make the box so that it could "slot" into those cut outs and be locked. So If I have to replace it, I can just slip it out, make the new box, insert back in. Also I found out from White Armor that the buckles are Harley Roller buckles. Would anyone know where I should look out for these?

Hey guys! So sadly I hit an accuracy snag. So the elephant ear shaped piece on this abdomen to the death trooper (the piece my finger is pointing to in the first pic).... I didn't realize till after already gluing it on that it's supposed to over lap the trim piece my finger is pointing to in the 2nd picture. Sadly now, the piece is unable to be seperate due to the strength of the loctite superglue. I have seperated glued pieces before with a knife (acts as a lever to lift ut up with), but this is glued to thinner plastic, and s...ometimes these glued parts will rip the bottom piece as its being teared off. As you can see in tge ref lic, it's supposed to overlap the trim, and the trim doesn't show up next to the center box. Any suggestions on what I could do, or of regulations would have a problem with this minor detail? I also forgot to mention that I heat gunned the bottom portion of the abdomen so it stays closer and goes with my body. The sides were too straight at first. If this interferes with 501st, snd I can't fix it, it's ok. I'll still make this in the end abd share the progress with you all Also any info on where I can get the buckles for the shoulder straps would be deeply appreciated! The 3rd pic is to show you the unorganized back of the abdomen. On the far right is an extra piece for the parallel lines on the front sides, because I glued the back plate to the center grill/box closer than planned, so I extended it with the extra liece so the lines have something to rest on. Also, I came up with an idea for the chest piece. I am thinking if dividing the shaped and angled areas apart, and then making their designs on the signs, so I can make multiple sections of the armor. I will then weld them together using a sodering iron (a lot of people have been using this technique for modding the Hasbro Black Series Kylo Ren helmet), and then I'll sand it down on all the angled edges. This will make it easier, especially since the neck line has some standing parts that act as collars on the armor. Let me know what you think. Comparison photos courtesy of The Props Den (these are the photos I am using regularly as main reference due to the HD quality):

Thank you very much everyone! I have been working on the abdomen since posting this, and I may have hit a snag. I'll post update photos to see what everyone thinks.

Anyone got any leads on some good pretty close to accurate buckles for the shoulder straps? Someone tracked down the actual stuff to a military site on the R1 Trooper Armory facebook group, but the site didn't actually sell the stuff from the looks of it.

Hey Guys! So I am starting a build thread for my Death Trooper that will hopefully be 501st worthy of approval [Edit: Right now I am just trying to get as close as possible. Not specifically 501st) I will be making this out of...... wait for it....... .... plastic signs.... I know..... outrageous right? I have been taking a liking to using For Sale signs if I can't afford the real stuff of anything armor related. I made a set of Ringwraith Gauntlets out of Record Dividers (for vinyl record collections), along with a Nazgul helmet, so hopefully I can use this technique of mine and incorperate it into Stormtrooper building. Anyhow, let's get this started! So having had some experience with recycling plastic sheets from record collections, I will mention the methods for shaping them. I would draw up a temporary template on a sheet of plastic, cut it out with Cutco scissors (very good, sturdy, and heavy duty kitchen scissors), and then sand it. Then it's up to the shaping. I would use a convection oven set around 275 degrees (depending on the thickness of plastic. If its in between thick and thin, it's best to bring it down to 260 degrees), and heat it in there until it was soft and pliable enough to shape by hand. I would then take it out, and with gloves on, shape it to the proper shape needed. That is the process I came up with, being inspired by how people heat plastic for vac forming. But now is the time for the actual costume. I already slapped together most of the abdomen out of For Sale signs and left over record dividers, using a new technique I recently came up with. For making thicker sections, I sandwiched multiple pieces with Loctite superglue (I will eventually need to use the E6000), and along the edges, I put the glue in the seperations between the sandwiched pieces. The glue hardens pretty good, and it acts as a sort of filler in a way. Just be prepared to use a lot of it. Then the edges are sanded down flat, and hopefully it should look like 1 solid piece. However, there will be some cracks along the sandwiched pieces edges, so its best to add more glue in those areas. My apologies for the large pictures, I don't have photobucket yet But these pics show you what I mean. Here is the link to the reference I am using. I still haven't made certain details, but then again, this piece isn't finished. More to come I'll post the reference images here: https://www.facebook...?type=3 Photo courtesy of The Prop Den who got it from another person.