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TX AM Armor Build


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Hi Well I've ordered my AM armor kit now I need to buy the gear to help me build it. This is my first kit so is there a thread that Lists what I'll need and where to get it.

 

I like the idea of a harness system if anyone knows of a tutorial that shows how to make one.

 

Also where do you get Scissors good enough to cut the ABS neatly and should they be curved I have read this helps ?

 

Are there any good snaps on ebay or does anyone know of a good place to buy in Australia.

 

Also if anyone knows where I can buy a good quality Bucket or if someone has one for sale can they please let me know, i,ve decided not to go with the AM and to get something a little more Accurate .

 

thanks for the support Guys and Girls I'll keep you updated.

 

steve

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Congratulations! There are a few examples of strapping threads in the assembly/tutorial section of fisd, basically pick one you think youd be most comfortable with!

 

Not sure about the scissors (cuz I used the score and snap method) but definitely hit up the terror australis garrison forum and you might be able to find a trooper near you for help.

 

The extra plastic you cut off, and there will be a lot, save save save! You can make finishing strips, snap plates, and inner support strips from them. The snaps most get are "tandy line 24 snaps", its a good idea to get the 100 pack from ebay or Amazon as you'll need fifty or sixty for the whole suit.

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thanks mate

 

the main reason i wanted the scissors is because i want to do the return edge thing that pandatrooper did and his tutorial makes it look rather easy. Dizzy did you use e6000 glue it seems the most popular choice

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I havent made return edges cuz it looks sharper but thats just me, plus I don't want to risk losing the shine. You can get away with a lot with the white armor, excess glue, loss of shine, but the black is capped with a clear acrylic coat which gives it the gloss, I think ata and cap armors need to be painted or polished to achieve that. If you look at some other TX's that made return edges you might see what I mean. And yes E6000 is easy enough to use, but takes forever to cure! Soon I'll post an assembly tips thread as ive used some different elements I want to share. A heat gun is also a good investment for the arms and belt

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Hey there...good to see another upcoming Shadow Stormtrooper in the ranks. Nice choice! There are several different methods of strapping and harnessing, but it really comes down to what suits you. If you've never done this type of costuming, it'll be new to you but really fun once you get going. We have some really good troops here on the site and we'll all help you through the process.

 

Take a look at this thread for some tips/tricks from Trooper. He's an awesome guy on this site:

 

http://forum.specops501st.com/index.php?/topic/1481-shadow-stormtrooper-build/page__fromsearch__1

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Pandatrooper's return edge tutorial is great, and Terry is an amazing armorer, but I agree with Dizzy. You likely will compromise the shiny in the areas that you manipulate. I've used just about everything in learning to trim armor, but eventually a sharp Exacto to score and the good snap seems to be the least work and best result for me personally. As far as buckets go, there are a couple available at an amazing price here: http://forum.specops501st.com/index.php?/topic/2077-for-sale-3-tx-cap-lids/page__p__31342__hl__scootch__fromsearch__1&do=findComment&comment=31342

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All good questions!

 

Here are a list of posts you can check out. Some of which are over on the FISD - same kits of the same material being constructed ... ours just look better ;).

 

 

Basic Tools:

http://www.whitearmo...rmour-building/

 

Terry / Panadtrooper's AM build:

Great info, and he's using the AM kit (note it's in white - his practice run before his black kit ... haha!)

http://www.whitearmo...build-threadam/

 

Basic Tutorials:

hosted here: http://forum.501stsp...ps-and-how-tos/

http://www.whitearmo...-all-tutorials/

 

In regards to Scissors:

I use kitchen sheers - Crazy sharp, slightly curved blade and very heavy duty - for cutting through bone and taking apart poultry carcasses - These work really well for me and then I finish the edge with a palm sander.

 

 

In regards to the return edge:

Before you start making them (as you'll need well fitted armour parts first) take some trim / scraps and do a few practice runs / mock ups. You'll see what discoloration can happen when the shiny black ABS is manipulated. Then you can make the call if you want it on your own kit.

 

 

Also get on your local garrison board to source out local supplies as those troopers have been where you are. Most troopers are more than happy to help a new trooper out, and if you organize an armour party troopers will generally head over (sometimes with tools you may not have) and give you a hand with your build. Generally costs a few pizzas and a few beverages ;) but you meet the locals and have a great and productive time!

 

Also about Terry's build - He's a good friend and my Squad leader here in BC, but he is not a large guy by any means, so he has taken what is arguably one of the biggest out of the box Armour kits and trimmed it to fit a guy about 160lbs and 5'6" tall. So there is a tonne of great information on assembly and techniques but unless you are his size don't feel the need to trim any where near as much as heed did. For reference I'm 6'1" and I wear the AM so he took off a lot of material.

 

Hope that helps!

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I have performed the return edge on my FX armor, in more then one place. It's a scary step to take as you need to trim first, make sure your trim is symmetrical, and then use a hobby iron to add the return edge, sand the return edge even and smooth since it is very difficult to get something perfectly even with the hobby iron.

 

What I did to alleviate the lack of shine that everyone is talking about is to use some of the testor semi-gloss black paint and just paint the return edge. Looking at my armor you would never know and it maintains the same shine as the armor. I will see if I can dig up a picture of my chest armor return edge.

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If you have the funds and means for one, I would suggest I dremel with a Carbon Cutting blade (the black discs) that usually comes with a dremel anway. I found that the AM armor is nice and thick (Which is good) but tuff to work with. I never even went the scissors route, as I knew the Dremel would be perfect. It cuts the time in half, BUT, and here is a BIG but, its Dangerous if you're are not careful, and it leaves a Big mess. I purchased a good battery power Dremel and was perfect for me to go out far in the back yard and hack away. Just mark your lines and once you start you will be amazed at how straight you can cut ABS and fast too. Here is the best pic of my Dremal and some of what it can do. (FYI - Dont use masking tape, It leaves goop. I was cheap and a rookie and learned the hard way) :P

DC4B198E-BF6F-49E5-BAFB-5E8677BCA8C2-634-0000004A50C27284.jpg

 

 

The other advice I would give, was I used Black ABS cement (sadly I learned that there was black until I was almost done). It's used for pipe fittings. Don't use the regular stuff that comes with the kit. Not that it's not good, trust me It is, its pretty much holding all my armor together, BUT I had glue marks everywhere. So when I was done, I was spending days slowly and carefully using Goo Gone to scrape it off. Save your self the headache and use the black ABS Cement (if you go with this instead of e6000). The only reason I did not like e6000, was because it took a long time to cure. The ABS Cement could hold your armor together in about 3 hours after you set it on. but wait longer to acutally TRY it on. Your choice but just some options to think about. Also try not to use to much, a little goes a long way. And Sand the area before you apply, it adhears MUCH better when done.

34BAFFB7-5427-4F88-A27B-88DA430EBD01-3669-00000363758B1CAB_zpsbeaffae8.jpg

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Thanks for the advice Peter i will look into the dremel is it easy to maintain a straight cut for a newbie, Also i like the idea of the black cement will have to see if i can find some at my local hardware. on another note Peter i notice you purchased an Arakyel should i go for gloss matt or silver vocoder for approval , i ordered one myself today. Thanks Steve

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Actually disregard the ABS cement all together. If used wrong it will warp your armor. A lot of troopers will recommend E-6000, that is fine if you want to wait 24 hours for a piece to set, and can also later come undone. What I recommend and is a fast and permanent set is Devcon/ permatex plastic weld. It's getting harder to find and the cost has gone up since I built my kit, but I will only build a kit with this. It's ready to go in 5 minutes. If you do use it you need to measure twice, cut once. It will be permanent. I've done near 60 troops on my original build and it's still holding strong.

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Thanks for the warning joshua I guess everyone choses something that they are comfortable with five minute set sounds kinda scary, but I'm sorta with you in that five minutes is better than 24hrs I'm to impatient for that lol. Looked it up but not sure if I got the right stuff is one of those glues that sort of has two tubes into one found devcon plastic weld 3500 is that what you mean? Also can you please tell me if I'm going for the stunt look is the neck seal same as the hero look, also can you please recommend a good place to buy neck seal, black body suit, belt, holster and boots thankyou steve

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Actually disregard the ABS cement all together. If used wrong it will warp your armor.

 

This is True.. my buddy used too much ABS cement on his TS and it warped a bit. So yes again use what you are comfortable with.

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For the undersuit most of us use compression shirt/pants like you'd wear for running, If you can't find that locally (which you should be asking your garrison) click that 2 for $29 button and get the pants with it

 

http://www.eastbay.com/product/model:140817/sku:6843102/eastbay-evapor-compression-mock-mens/all-black/black/?cm=GLOBAL%20SEARCH%3A%20KEYWORD%20SEARCH

 

International shipping info:

Australia, Belgium, Germany, Hong Kong, Ireland, Japan, Luxemburg, Netherlands, New Zealand, South Korea, Taiwan, United Kingdom Delivery time: approximately 7-10 calendar days from the date of shipment. Orders will generally ship within 24 hours via UPS, subject to payment verification.

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