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Raider's Shadow Scout Build


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So I have had my armor and bucket kits (THANKS CHEF) for about a month and I've just been staring at the box in fear. This weekend, I think I'm going to put my big toe in the water and get this rolling...

 

Keep in mind, I've never done this and probably don't have the tools...so being as specific as possible as to what I need would be super helpful. I'm more of a visual guy so seeing the tools (links) and any pics rocks. Thanks so much!!!

 

A couple starter questions:

 

1) Is there a piece of the armor I should start w/ first that's easier to make progress on than the rest?

 

2) I noticed in Chef's tutorial on his website, trimming is listed as step one. Tools rec'd for this? Also...can I use a palm sander (I have one) for the sanding or should I use actual paper and do this by hand?

 

3) The armor is black, but I've heard that painting the armor is recommended regardless. What type of paint would be best? Does the painting need to occur before I attach any straps/rivets/etc.?

 

That's it for now I think. I'm saving the helmet for last...definitely the most intimidating piece of the bunch...hoping to get help on that one at an armor party soon.

 

P.S. Armor and bucket kit are from Chef as are all soft goods. I already have the suit, bund/pouches, gloves, balaclava...just waiting on boots, flak vest and blaster...all courtesy of Chef as well. He's been a huge help already up to this point.

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For the most part, the trimming can be done with sandpaper or a file.

Not sure what palm sander you've got, but I am sure it will be useful.

 

Make note of the trim lines (best visible on the inside of the parts). Use these as your guide.

 

Big areas can be removed using aviation snips like these...

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-X-HEAVY-DUTY-AVIATION-TIN-SNIPS-SET-SHEET-METAL-CUTTERS-LEFT-RIGHT-STRAIGHT-/391205784476?hash=item5b15ae8b9c

 

(oddly I find the left hand one the most useful).

 

A Dremel (or other rotary tool) whilst not essential, is an absolute godsend. Get a sanding drum on it (usually supplied with it), and a little router bit and a drill... It will make short work of cutting the slots for the straps.

 

Sand paper grades wise.... I start with 40 on a block (just a bit of wood will do) and sand them to the right shape. I then finish up with a quick skim of 120 to smooth them off.

 

 

 

Paint wise... They do look better in Satin in my opinion. Which is best... Well, that's a matter of opinion. But any automotive style paint will be fine. Just make sure you use the same type throughout. Paint is fickle and using different brands of paint 'can' have serious issues.

So if you choose 'X' brand of top coat, make sure you use 'X' brand for the primer too. Or do tests first to check compatibility.

 

You don't necessarily need to prime the main armour parts as they are black already. Just give them a light key with some 400 grit wet and dry paper, and then spray. This way, when they get scratched (and they will over time), the paint will just show black underneath and not a grey primer. This type of weathering does look cool and adds a real nice visual dimension to your suit over the ages.

 

Painting is best done before all the straps are put in place, but it is not essential (the paint won't show on the straps anyway should you get a bit of overspray).

 

Just take your time, don't be afraid of it. There should have been a load of spare plastic (grey stuff) in there, so just use some of it as test material to get the hang of what does what.

 

I'll be here to answer any questions as well.

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Chef mentioned this, but I wanted to chime in that ive probably used my dremel more than any other piece of equipment while building armor. Cutting wheels for lsrger pieces, snading wheels for area where i want to to take less off or even out what I cut. After that, I sand by hand.

 

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Let us know what you are thinking about doing? I like to think forearms are a good start, but that is just me. They don't really require strapping if padded or the strapping is simply a connector to the bicep or to your undersuit. Also, depending on how you hook everything together, you can always make a adjustments later. If you use e-6000 and glue stuff, it can be separated later with some work. I did this and retrimmed some pieces later down the line.

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Thanks for the responses. I'm picking up the tools I need to do the sanding and trimming today. I suppose I would need to look through the kit again to see if how those are actually supposed to attach (Chef could say for certain). I just assumed everything was strapped and hadn't considered that it could be glued.

 

Is it typical to attach padding on the interior of the armor?

 

As far as where I was thinking of starting...I didn't really know but was eyeing the chest/back simply because it's the largest and most noticeable lol.

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Steve... It's a Storm Commando... No overlaps or clacky stuff on it! Travel Light = Move Fast.

 

 

I don't tend to pad any of the armour parts, not really required as none of it is essentially uncomfortable.

I do suggest putting a little strip of padding on the inside of the lower knee (along the bottom) as the return edge on the knee plate can (and will) rub and this can get ruddy annoying after a few hours!

Straps wise, I just glue the elastic on the inside of the armour parts using a squirt of hot glue (but E6000 will do the job just as well). The elastic will have enough 'stretch' in it to allow you to remove the armour bits no problem.

 

To hold them in place on the suit you can either put a popper on the suit and one on the back of the armour part (this can be uncomfortable if you get one in a funny spot) or use patches of velcro. Both do the same job.

 

Velcro takes more time as you need to sew it to the suit, but it requires less 'accuracy' as you can move the bits around on the patch.

Poppers are faster, can be potentially uncomfortable and you need to get the popper in exactly the right spot or it will always sit wrong.

 

You won't want to start 'siting' your armour on the suit until all the parts are ready. By all means get the velcro on the back of them, but don't put anything on the suit until you know where everything is going to go.

This part of the process isn't entirely necessary for clearance as you just need to get the look right at this stage, but you'll definitely want to do it prior to trooping as your armour bits will shift about as you move.

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I have both a traditional TB Scout and a Storm TX - I agree with Chef (hey, doesn't everybody) I have a tad of padding on my lower knees and that's it.

 

I am building my son a Storm right now and have used fusion fabric glue to attach the Velcro to the elastic and sticky Velcro for the armor side - it's holding up well - I sewed my two Scouts - this is a ton easier if it holds up

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Ha, Chef, I didnt notice the costume - it shows where my heads out. Ignore the padding advice. Ive got one and oadding is unnecessary. One thing I'd suggest is working out a system to keep yourbchest plate where you want it on top of the cumberbund. I use snap strips.

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I looked around for Dremels...lots of options (and similar brands). Corded or cordless? For what I'll be using this for, how much power should I be looking for?

 

Aviation snips ordered. Thanks squad!

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I haven't had the best luck with the batteries on cordless Dremels. On the other hand, my corded has been through through the ringer over the years and is still doing the job.

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I have one of both - sometimes you need to take just a bit off -

Especially when I am almost totally complete and it is much more convenient to grab the battery one and hit a high area vs pulling out the cord etc. might just be me since I don't have a big workspace and can't leave my tools out all the time.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Dremel, snips, and paper purchased. Im going to post pics of some of the armor because I dont see where I should be trimming (and it looks like Im of the body type that most of it should fit me well w minimal trimming).

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Here is a sample closeup pic of the inside shoulder "strap" of the armor (I took a couple other shots further out). I'm trying to find the trim lines if any. I'm not really sure how to identify them and determine how much I should trim, if any. My fear being, once I make a trim, I can't get that plastic back lol. Sorry if the pic is poor quality...took it on my phone and had to resize it to upload here.

 

I also notice the bowing out of the plastic at the end which I'm guessing I just need to sand down. Thanks for your help.

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The trim lines are there. There really isn't much of a return edge on the shoulder straps. They aren't load-bearing and actually get most of their strength from the indents. Trim along that and you will do away with the bowing at the end.

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Yeah, the return on the shoulder straps is only about 4-5mm. Just enough to give a impression of thickness to the armour.

 

I have to admit that during a slight revision of that area on the bucks, I filled in the trim lines! whoops...

 

Haven't put them back in yet.

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  • 1 month later...

Chef....check your PMs when you get a sec plz. Other than that...I am attending my first armor party this month so will finally make some good progress on this hopefully!

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  • 2 weeks later...

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