RAIDER[COTG] Posted December 11, 2015 Author Share Posted December 11, 2015 So there are my pic updates...everything else (except the helmet which I haven't touched yet) is painted and all the armor is slotted and ready for strapping. Main thing I need advice on at this point: 1) How do I reattach this tank at the bottom if the new rivet hole will overlap with the old one? 2) How do I fix that crack? 3) Based on the last pic, is the spacing between the tank and backplate good or is there something I can do make that better before I reattach this thing? THANKS!!! Link to comment
Chef[501st] Posted December 11, 2015 Share Posted December 11, 2015 Righty.... I'll address them in reverse... To make the gapping better... If you look on the inside of the tank, you should see some mould lines like these... These are a rough trimming guide to get the tank flush. They do get a bit vague on the lower bit of the tank, but you should still be able to make it out. This will help bring the tank right in. The crack... I think the best solution will be to get a bit of spare plastic (should be some kicking about!) and glue a bit right over the hole itself. Warm the spare plastic up (NOT THE TANK!) until it goes a bit floppy and then press it onto the area so it forms to the same shape. Then glue it down. Trim it off so it's all the same shape and give it a sand on its inner edge so it doesn't interfere with the tank sitting level on the back plate. Re-drill the hole in the same spot. That should sort the tank. If with the re-trimming and new placement you find that the holes overlap a little, then what you need to do is the same as the above... Get a spare bit of plastic and glue it to the INSIDE of the Back-Plate. When you re-site the tank, you can drill the new hole up through the back plate and the new bit of plastic. You'll need to get a new rivet with a much longer tang to go through the extra thickness of plastic. a 15mm tang should probably be plenty long enough, but the longer the better. It can always be trimmed back after installation. Remember to use a backing washer on the inside of the backplate. Just squeeze the rivet up gently so it pulls the tank and the back plate together. DO NOT try to squeeze it so it breaks the shaft. This is probably what split your tank in the first place. Just get it to pull together then STOP. At this point, the tank and back plate will be together, but the shaft will still be sticking out of the bottom of the rivet. Just snip it off with a pair of pliers, or a dremel. Carefully hit it with a sanding drum to smooth it off. Don't go mad at this stage because hitting it with a sander will heat it up... and heat melts plastic. So do a bit... let it cool... do a bit more... let it cool. Until it's smooth. Job done. Tank repaired. Link to comment
RAIDER[COTG] Posted December 18, 2015 Author Share Posted December 18, 2015 Thanks for the red line markers...now I actually know what the trim lines look like and that helped get this tank trimmed better. Haven't worked on reattaching it but that's a goal for this week. After the trim, it looks as if the rivet holes may not overlap...the fix of this should be easier as well as smoothing out that minor crack. I got the package w/ the boots and vest...UK sizes must run slightly small...the boots fit but are pretty snug and uncomfortable...I will probably have to look into redoing those at some point for extensive trooping...maybe sell and reorder if I can swing it. Flak vest...just to make sure...it's supposed to stretch across the chest but not extend up around the neck like a shirt right? The arms should be snug as well correct? I'm guessing so by the material but just want to verify. The only thing that's a big problem at this point is the cumberbund...it just doesn't fit. You suggested removing the 2" velcro and replacing with a 1" velcro to gain an inch. Even that wouldn't be enough...I need 2-3". Any ideas? Thanks as always!!! Link to comment
RAIDER[COTG] Posted December 22, 2015 Author Share Posted December 22, 2015 Does this look right or do I need to trim it down more and fit more inside the boot piece? Also...when I rivet this to the boot I should be drilling holes in both the armor and the actual boot correct? Thanks!!! Link to comment
RAIDER[COTG] Posted December 22, 2015 Author Share Posted December 22, 2015 And I need to sand down that corner...but figured I'd clean that up after in case this isn't right. Link to comment
Darth Emphatic[CMD-DWM] Posted December 22, 2015 Share Posted December 22, 2015 When you attach to the boot youll go through the boot as well. You'll want to cover that side of the rivet so it doesnt poke you on the inside. Link to comment
thisiskevin Posted December 23, 2015 Share Posted December 23, 2015 Might be a bit late, but my 1st time assembling a kit is Chef's as well. What i did was just following the trim lines on the back of the kit, even though some i have to go over/before the trim lines but hopefully it shouldn't be too hard. The hard ones to do for me was assembling the back tank (rivetting the bottom) and of course assembling the bucket. But good job so far man! Keep up the good work! Link to comment
Chef[501st] Posted December 24, 2015 Share Posted December 24, 2015 Boot holster should end up something like this... The internal trimming will depend on the blaster for the ultimate tight fit. So get it glued together and trim it out until it's nice and snug. Rivets end up in the corners like so... Link to comment
RAIDER[COTG] Posted January 2, 2016 Author Share Posted January 2, 2016 Updates. Fixed crack at bottom of tank. Retrimmed tank to fit better on backplate. Retrimmed holster. All armor painted and ready for strapping (the blaster isn't done...just there for decoration). Link to comment
RAIDER[COTG] Posted January 2, 2016 Author Share Posted January 2, 2016 I need to color that rivet on the top of the tank. I also had severe glue drip when putting on the topper...caused a mess on the tank which I had to try and sand and resand out. I got most of it but there are a few small "dings" on the armor where the tank and plate meet on the left hand side. Looking back...I would have glued the topper before riveting the tank to the backplate...rookie doing things out of order. Going to rivet holster to boots today and meet up a trooper to do the strapping. Only 3 questions for my next step: 1) The pin stripe detail on the back...is that a solid stripe or can I cut the decal strip where the stripe curves? 2) The blaster...is that loop screwed in to secure the scope or is it glued? 3) The blaster seems to fit well into the holster cut I did and feels secure...any suggestions on how to get it secured even more for trooping and extensive movement? I think that's it for now. Will update with strapped armor...and then on to the thing that scares me most...the bucket!!! Link to comment
toddo[TX] Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 1. the pin stripe can be cut. 2. a screw is a good idea. 3. some people employ a magnet system between the blaster and the holster. Honestly though, I never walk around with the blaster in my holster it never feels secure enough. I doubt I would feel if it were to shimmy out. Link to comment
Chef[501st] Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 Yeah, tank stripe can be done in 3 parts. both verticals and the horizontal is how I do it. Just overlap the joins. For attaching the scope on the blaster. I just drill right through the scope and into the main blaster and insert some of the rivet shanks to pin it in place. Then just glue the cover on the top. You could drill out the 'screws' and insert real ones. Either way will work just as well. Remember the turret (the bulge bit) of the scope abuts directly up to the scope ring. There isn't a gap in there between the two. Depending on how snug you've got it to fit, it should be OK. Mine stays in, even with my silliness. So unless you're planning on karate side kicking people whilst out trooping you'll probably find it's OK. But adding a magnet into the grip is a fairly common mod. Get a large round neodymium magnet and insert it into the transistor part (round bit) on the grip. Add another on the back of the holster in the same place and they should just 'click' together when you put the pistol in the holster. I've seen people add in a little strap that goes over the blaster with either a snap or velcro to hold it down. That's probably the most sure fire way to keep it in. But this irks my screen accurate gland, so I don't advise it. 1 Link to comment
RAIDER[COTG] Posted January 3, 2016 Author Share Posted January 3, 2016 Thanks guys. And sand and paint the blaster or leave it as is? Link to comment
Chef[501st] Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 personal choice... I gave mine a slight weathering of silver just to pick out the details. 1 Link to comment
Darth Emphatic[CMD-DWM] Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 I do magnet, mainly for those events where blasters are not allowed, I can keep it in my holster. 1 Link to comment
Griffin-X[501st] Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 I have a magnet on my blaster and boot holster too, works like a charm. Link to comment
RAIDER[COTG] Posted January 5, 2016 Author Share Posted January 5, 2016 Thanks. Do you guys have pics of how you rigged that magnet system? I'm a visual learner lol. I'm half-Asian Chef...so karate side-kicking is totally within the realm of possibility ; ) And how do you do the weathering...sounds interesting...pic and technique? Link to comment
randypavlik[TX] Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 I googled "dry brush weathering" and several you tube videos came up. it's a lot easier than I thought 1 Link to comment
Griffin-X[501st] Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 I googled "dry brush weathering" and several you tube videos came up. it's a lot easier than I thought It really is, just let your imagination take hold. It helped me to look at actual guns and how they weather with time and use. I usually cut small squares of foam, spray some silver spray paint on a piece of cardboard, wait about 60-secs, then coat the foam with the paint. Wait another 60-secs or so, then "lightly" start to spread it out. Try it out on a toy gun or other plastic parts to get the hang of it. Best rule of thumb - less is more! For the magnet, note the "round" trigger mechanism. I have an earth magnet under it, with a corresponding piece of metal on the holster. It securely holds the blaster in place, even while I walk/run. Link to comment
Darth Emphatic[CMD-DWM] Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 Also good to prevent kids (or adults) from (accidently) lifting it 1 Link to comment
RAIDER[COTG] Posted January 12, 2016 Author Share Posted January 12, 2016 Think the boot armor mount is finished. I will post a pic tonight when I get home. I'm not sold on the blaster fit. Feels like it will bounce out. So Griffin...under your "trigger" there is a magnet or the magnet is the piece on top (glued and painted)? Do you have pic of how you rigged the opposite magnet/metal to the holster where it secures? Should the blaster snout be protruding from the bottom of the holster or no? Mine isn't but the holster doesn't feel like I can force the blaster down further. Link to comment
Griffin-X[501st] Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 Think the boot armor mount is finished. I will post a pic tonight when I get home. I'm not sold on the blaster fit. Feels like it will bounce out. So Griffin...under your "trigger" there is a magnet or the magnet is the piece on top (glued and painted)? Do you have pic of how you rigged the opposite magnet/metal to the holster where it secures? Should the blaster snout be protruding from the bottom of the holster or no? Mine isn't but the holster doesn't feel like I can force the blaster down further. The magnet fits under the round "trigger" part. The part is hollow and hides it well. On the holster, I have a 1.5" x 2" strip of metal on the inside of the holster. It's pretty simple but effective. I think you'll be fine and no worries about the tip. Honestly, I carry it in my hand more than in the holster. It's so...cute and small! 1 Link to comment
RAIDER[COTG] Posted January 25, 2016 Author Share Posted January 25, 2016 Speaking of cute and small...have you guys ever seen a build on this: http://vignette2.wikia.nocookie.net/starwars/images/8/8e/DTL20-A_Pulse_Cannon_DICE.png/revision/latest?cb=20151106043833 Daddy wants one ; ) 1 Link to comment
RAIDER[COTG] Posted January 25, 2016 Author Share Posted January 25, 2016 It's the pulse cannon from Battlefront. P.S. I'm almost strapped up. I suck at taking pictures and posting them though...hopefully I can have a body shot up soon of everything but the helmet and belt done. Link to comment
Darth Emphatic[CMD-DWM] Posted January 25, 2016 Share Posted January 25, 2016 Oh, gosh yes. Id put that over my mantel, lol. Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now