RAIDER[COTG] Posted January 29, 2016 Author Share Posted January 29, 2016 Some minor tweak questions if any have time (thanks as always for the input you've been giving up to this point): 1) Inside of the knee armor...does anyone have a pic (I'm a visual person) of the padding/foam method you use to line the bottom of the knee guard? I've heard foam not only helps pad but helps prevent slipping as well...I just want to use the right kind so it doesn't wear out after a few troops...also would like to see how you place it. 2) When you put on your helmet...do you do so w/ facemask up or should it be able to fit over my head w/ mask down? This weekend I am making it a point to put up more pics so you all can see and give better feedback. Thanks!!! Link to comment
RAIDER[COTG] Posted January 30, 2016 Author Share Posted January 30, 2016 So here's where I stand (pics below). Missing bund/pouches (en route), belt, and bucket, and fabric shoulder strap covers. Everything prepped for belt just need to size it up once the bund is on. Bucket I've pre-trimmed (pic to come as I feel like I did a crappy job and not sure where to fix). I don't have sewing skills at all, but learned how to install poppers so went that route for the majority of strap connections. Will be using velcro on the belt and shoulder strap covers I make. Issues I've noticed just in this rough fit: Bicep and forearms seem to slide down. Suggestions to keep that from happening? I feel the rivets in the boot. I've been told to use foam covering but what kind of foam won't wear out quickly with lots of walking/trooping? Knees don't slide much but still looking for an option to reduce risk of that even further. I've been told put padding on the lower part of the knee...again, what type won't wear out fast? Other than those 3 things does anything else look not-so-kosher? How is the noob doing? Link to comment
Darth Emphatic[CMD-DWM] Posted January 30, 2016 Share Posted January 30, 2016 How much of the rivet is sticking through the boot? I actually sanded mine down on the inside using my dremel then put a foam covering over them. On the knees, I sewed velcro to my red kap suit and put it on the top inside of the knee armor so they always stay in place. Link to comment
toddo[TX] Posted January 31, 2016 Share Posted January 31, 2016 Yep, Velcro under the armor pieces will keep them in place. I had the issue with the rivet as well, but filing it down a tad helped. You can place some foam like Steve said over the rivet and cover it with black duct tape. That will protect the foam from erosion too. Link to comment
RAIDER[COTG] Posted January 31, 2016 Author Share Posted January 31, 2016 Yes! THANKS! That helps. Velcro patches in the sleeves and knee...check. Foam on rivets...will do the duct tape idea. As far as armor positioning...does it look good or does any of it need to be higher? Lower? Link to comment
RAIDER[COTG] Posted February 1, 2016 Author Share Posted February 1, 2016 So found these foam ear plugs while at church today that they hand out and they fit perfectly over the rivet (and form around the rivet as well)...glued em on and set the duct tape. Done! Wife sewed up the fabric shoulder strap covers (check the pic). Done! Quick question...I do have a t-strap coming down from the chest/back shoulder join that connects to the inside of the shoulder bell. Does the type of strap used there matter? I used the same black cotton webbing that was used to do the shoulder strap from back to chest figuring it should match. That ok you think? Lastly...installed the stickyback velcro on the inside of the forearm, bicep, and knee. Wife is gonna sew the adjoining velcro to the jumpsuit later this week and that'll be done...just shoot me some input on the positioning of the armor as I have it on those pics above. If they're good, we'll set the velcro to that. THANKS THANKS THANKS!!! Link to comment
Darth Emphatic[CMD-DWM] Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 I think I know what kind of plugs you are talking about. That is a really good idea. Link to comment
Chef[501st] Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 Looking sweet buddy. That drop strap on the shoulder should be fine. Technically not there, but should be OK. Link to comment
RAIDER[COTG] Posted February 1, 2016 Author Share Posted February 1, 2016 I didn't like the cotton webbing so switched out the drop strap for elastic this morning before work lol (I'm addicted). Yea...not sure if it's a Florida thing but the scouts here all seem to have the t-strap setup (as seen in the Panda tutorial on BSN). Anywho...gonna see if I can convince wifey to do those velcro patches today while I start the belt (got your msg Chef thanks!). You can see in that pic the helmet (far left) pre-trimmed and taped. I'm not ready for that though Link to comment
Darth Emphatic[CMD-DWM] Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 Just make sure all mods are done with the jumpsuit before adding the velcro and to triple check placement becore sewing them on. I taped mine on first to check to mske sure everything sat where I wanted both standing and sitting before I sewed the velcro on. Link to comment
Griffin-X[501st] Posted February 2, 2016 Share Posted February 2, 2016 I personally do not use Velcro on either of my scouts. Just a personal choice. I do not have any part slippage either. Link to comment
RAIDER[COTG] Posted February 10, 2016 Author Share Posted February 10, 2016 Hey guys...started the belt today. About how far should those drop boxes be coming down from my waist? On the CRL I don't see measurements so I'm just trying to eyeball it from pics of all your suits I can find lol. Looks like maybe 2" from belt to clip and clip to box...does that seem right? More/less? Link to comment
Darth Emphatic[CMD-DWM] Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 They sit almost flush with the bottom of the belt Link to comment
Chef[501st] Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 Depending on your height.... The gap between the bottom of the belt and the top of the box, and the bottom of the box and the top of the strap on your thigh should be roughly the same. It's normally about 3" below the belt line. Link to comment
RAIDER[COTG] Posted February 14, 2016 Author Share Posted February 14, 2016 Dove into the bucket build at an armor party yesterday. Here's what we accomplished (had a lot of help from a guy). Used some plastic strips and fiberglass to seal the interior of the bucket and visor. First round of bondo applied to exterior of bucket seam. Needs more in some spots after sanding probably. Drilled holes for visor bolts. Trimmed mask. Before I attach mask...take a gander at the side view please. See how it's not in line at the bottom with the bucket? All the buckets I've seen are but when I push the mask up higher it pushes the visor up out of alignment. Not sure if I should trim more (if these pics help see that). Oh and happy Valentine's Day to all you wonderful lads who have been tossing me advice!!! Link to comment
Chef[501st] Posted February 15, 2016 Share Posted February 15, 2016 Difficult to see from the pictures you've got there... It should sit flush. The important things to note. The line of the faceplate is not straight in relation to the rest of the bucket. If you lay it on a table, there should be a gap about 8-10mm from the table to the bottom of the join (arrowed) at the faceplate/main bucket area (if that makes sense), so literally only the very tip of the snout and the back edge of the main bucket touch the table.. The faceplate is ever so slightly tilted forwards. The original ones had this slightly droopy snout. That leads on to.... The area at the arrow in the centre... The gap between the front of the faceplate and the edge of the visor shroud is roughly 25-30mm. This should tilt your faceplate. It should also bring it up a touch. The corners (circled) are the most important bits... They need to be flush on the inside, and the corners lined up. Just go steady in this area as it's not a very precise science. If the corners are lined up nicely, you should find the bottom lines up OK. The centre (arrowed) may push up a bit, but don't worry about this as the top of the visor is supposed to have a slight curve to it. It is a bit of a tricky thing to fit... and it's one of those things that until it's all in the right place, it looks all kinds of wrong. But once it hits the sweet spot, everything falls into place. Hope that helps a little. Link to comment
RAIDER[COTG] Posted February 17, 2016 Author Share Posted February 17, 2016 Yes...makes sense. Not confident I can pull it off lol but the arrows and measures help give me an idea of what to look for. No gaps in the corners...25-35mm gap from brim of visor to faceplate...flush from plate to bucket at the bottom. That WARNING sign on the last pic...quite fitting hahaha. Link to comment
RAIDER[COTG] Posted February 17, 2016 Author Share Posted February 17, 2016 Bucket aside...almost done with belt...hopefully everything but the TD box sewed and put together. How to curve and attach those clips? Bund...attaching the pouches...can the flap be placed over the top of the bund and sewed or does it need to be velcroed to the front (w/ velcro sewed to the bund)? Link to comment
Chef[501st] Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 Curving the clips is easy. Just bend them around a pencil or similar. Attaching them can be a bit fiddly. You need to put a rivet (4mm) through the hole and then into the tube on your thermal det. You then need to get a backing washing on, on the INSIDE of the tube (to stop the rivet pulling through), this is the tricky bit as you have to get it on with one finger because the room is very limited. But it is possible though, Link to comment
RAIDER[COTG] Posted February 19, 2016 Author Share Posted February 19, 2016 Sweet...thx Chef...got the clips curved and riveted. Is that the only way I should be connecting this TD to the belt...the clips? It should be removeable that way on and off by just sliding the clips? Just making sure there's nothing else (the Panda tutorial w/ all the metal and magnets is too much for me) I should do before I get my hopes up and call it a day on all of the body work and move on to completing the helmet lol. Link to comment
Darth Emphatic[CMD-DWM] Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 The biggest concern with doing other more secure method is really theft. Otherwisen the clips will do the job, you just have to be carefull no one slides it off. Link to comment
Chef[501st] Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 It won't fall off with just the clips, and depending on how tight you've made the curves it can be pretty difficult to remove 'manually'. If you do still have issues with the little devils trying to pull it off, you can add in one extra level of security (besides breaking their fingers!) and that is make up an 'L' shaped bit of plastic. Glue this in to the top of the main body of the Thermal Det itself, so it creates a vertical that goes down behind the belt. Glue a bit of velcro to the inside of the new bracket and the same on the inside of the belt. That won't go ANYWHERE in a hurry.... And you'll probably need an assistant to get it off. Or you could simply add in a patch of velcro to the tube inside the Thermal Det body, and the same on the outer portion of your belt. To be honest, I've never had an issue with just the clips. It's secure enough to let me know when someone is trying to pull it off. They always try to pull it out, rather than up! Link to comment
RAIDER[COTG] Posted February 19, 2016 Author Share Posted February 19, 2016 Why would people try to take it off? Is that common? Sheesh lol. I'm going to try just rolling with the clips...they seem pretty secure...if anything, I'll add velcro to the back and tube if it turns out to be a problem. Thanks! Link to comment
RAIDER[COTG] Posted February 23, 2016 Author Share Posted February 23, 2016 should have a bucket pic this week...i totally forgot the earholes though so need to go back and cut em out. does the type of black fabric placed there matter or can it be whatever so long as it's black? Link to comment
Darth Emphatic[CMD-DWM] Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 No backing in the ear holes is best. Thats the specialist requirement and saves you extra work Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now