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Resizing Tom's files to fit - Who's done it?


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I'm already an approved DT (TX-81813 - Mississippi Rancor Raiders Garrison), but I want to improve my kit. It's an early KB Props kit that is severely lacking in detail, which has always bothered me.  I'm about 6'3", 245 lbs with fairly muscular arms and legs (if I must say so myself... haha).   I have recently gotten into 3D printing for droid building, which then led me to think about upgrading my DT with 3D printed parts.  Tom suggested that I use an Autodesk program called Netfabb to resize parts, but it's a subscription service (quite expensive).  I've also pored over build threads hoping to find someone who mentions resizing parts in their thread, but I haven't found anything yet.  My thought was to simply add (maybe) 10% in the slicer, and see where that gets me - Basically a trial and error method - Maybe starting with a simple part like the biceps.  

Does anyone have any insight for me?  FYI, I'm using a Prusa MK3s, the Prusa slicer, and have been using Meshmixer to cut up the files.  Thanks for any input or advice from those of you who've printed a kit!

Michael

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I’m currently reprinting my suit using Toms files.  I am using ArmorSmith to resize the parts.  It’s a one time buy, $30 I believe.  Well worth the cost.  You will input your bodies measurements and create a digital avatar of yourself.  You can then digitally attach the armor parts to the avatar and scale them until they look the way you want them to fit.  I don’t have my PC handy to attach a shot but I did have this picture of my war machine that I resized to get an idea of what I’m talking about.

 I resize in armor smith and then print slices of the piece before the entire thing.  So for example, if I’m printing the forearm, I first print about half an inch of the part at the wrist, and a half an inch at the top.  This way I can test that my hand will fit through and be sure the part will fit the way I want it to.

C2E64BEB-D7D6-4E36-949D-5465EEBA11DB.jpeg

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I have used Tom's files and had very little need to resize, as I'm 6'0" and 225 lbs.  However, what looked to be fine "as is" on the shins turned out to be too long, and I had already printed both completely.  To reprint, I used Simplify3D and shrunk them by 20% in the Z axis.  I probably need to do the same on the forearms, as they are a little bit long, but those can wait.  I also used Meshmixer to cut the pieces before slicing in Simplify3D and printing on a Prusa Mk2S.  I can't recommend Simplify3D enough, even though it's a $150 purchase.  With Simplify3D, you can really play around with the position of parts, supports, etc., and not have to wait on a 5 minute time to re-slice.  It's super fast, and allowed me to play around and get the best surface for each print to reduce sanding, get the best detail, etc.

PS - I had heard of ArmorSmith mentioned by Lancer above, and wish I would have used it, but since I use a Mac and it's a PC only program, I never really looked into it.

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So I've been tinkering around with printing a Mandalorian helmet for my son, thereby learning about resizing and cutting up models. Here's what I have done with that helmet (I assume I can use the same process for any other piece of armor):

I put his measurements into ArmorSmith and imported the helmet, then resized it to fit his head measurements.  I exported that model, and attempted to cut it up in Meshmixer, but kept having issues with the program crashing (I'm not smart enough to figure out why the program kept crashing).  So I then imported the file into the Prusa slicer, where I easily was able to cut it into pieces that will fit my print bed, and then exported each of the pieces as a .stl file for printing.

When it comes time to apply this to the DT files, I'm planning to add my measurements to Armorsmith, adjust the parts to fit my measurements, import them into the Prusa slicer, and cut them into printable chunks, just as I did with the helmet above. 

Is there anything wrong with that method?  Seems much simpler than some of the other methods I've read about.

It does create a lot more post-print processing, but that is one of the (very few) downfalls of having a smaller print bed with the Prusa. 

Thanks for any input!

ETA: Once I get the files sized in ArmorSmith and exported, I'll use @lancer's method above, and print a very small section of the parts to ensure circumferential fit before I commit to printing the entire part.

 

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On 12/23/2020 at 5:35 PM, nanotek said:

If you purchased the files from Tom he will provide you with all the support you need in resizing, just flick him a message

I messaged him - He's the one that suggested using the Netfabb program, but it is quite advanced and quite expensive.  I'll go the route of learning it and paying for it if the simpler method I am trying above won't work.  

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Your method is probably fine.  The armorsmith program is basically an estimated guess at proper sizing, which you could probably do with Meshmixer anyway.  I'd have used armorsmith if it were available for the mac.  Oh, and don't knock the Prusa printer.  Yes, it's not able to print some of the larger parts in one go, but the print stability and output is second to none!

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7 minutes ago, DHKnecht said:

Your method is probably fine.  The armorsmith program is basically an estimated guess at proper sizing, which you could probably do with Meshmixer anyway.  I'd have used armorsmith if it were available for the mac.  Oh, and don't knock the Prusa printer.  Yes, it's not able to print some of the larger parts in one go, but the print stability and output is second to none!


Oh the Prusa is a beast..  I’m very well pleased.  My son has been wanting a Mandalorian helmet to go with his costume, so I thought I’d “practice” armor making with that project.  So far, so good!! 


https://imgur.com/gallery/ByYMBH9

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@mjt82 Have you looked at the free/basic version of netfabb? It might be limited compared to meshmixer, but I find slicing and measuring easier in netfabb.

Like @DHKnecht, I had been resizing the pieces myself. I'm 5'10'' and currently 230 lb. So far I had to shorten the length about ~15% for my forearms. I haven't done my shins yet, but I'm looking to do the same and possibly more shortening. I'm worried about thighs too, because I'm a little bit of a thicc boy.

@lancer Thanks for the tip. For $30 bucks that sounds like a hell of a deal.

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2 hours ago, CyberNinja89 said:

@mjt82 Have you looked at the free/basic version of netfabb? It might be limited compared to meshmixer, but I find slicing and measuring easier in netfabb.

Like @DHKnecht, I had been resizing the pieces myself. I'm 5'10'' and currently 230 lb. So far I had to shorten the length about ~15% for my forearms. I haven't done my shins yet, but I'm looking to do the same and possibly more shortening. I'm worried about thighs too, because I'm a little bit of a thicc boy.

@lancer Thanks for the tip. For $30 bucks that sounds like a hell of a deal.

@CyberNinja89 I looked for a free version, but only found a 30 day free trial.  Maybe I missed something - I'll go back and look.  So far using Armorsmith seems to be working well enough.  I finished up my son's Mandalorian helmet, so I am going to try to print a scaled up forearm this weekend and see how it turns out!

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So I did some resizing based on my measurements in Armorsmith, and printed a modifed forearm, which came out way too big.  Maybe I am overthinking my need to resize these files.  I am 6'3" and about 250 lbs - I lift weights alot so I'm not too pudgy around the midsection.  I built a KB Props ABS kit for my first build, and it fit me well enough out of the box to get approved.  If anything, maybe I need to add a couple cm of length to things, and keep the girth measurements as they are.  Opinions?

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I spoke to Tom about the sizing of the models, and he encouraged me to print them as-is.  I went ahead and printed a forearm, which turned out to fit nicely.  I'm moving on to the shins next, and should have the first on finished tomorrow evening!  From there, I think most everything else should be OK, size-wise.  

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I'm 6'0", 225 lbs., and based on what I discussed with Tom, printed everything at full size.  The shins were way too long and tight, and I couldn't move in them, so I reduced the height (Z axis) only by 10%, which resulted in a shortening of the shins by 2 inches.  That worked *much* better, but I should have increased the X and Y axes by 5%, and maybe even the Z axis by another 5%.  I wish I had read @lancer's comment about printing just the slices, as that would have saved me some time and lots of filament.

I also printed the forearms at full size, and those need to be shortened by an inch for better movement, but I can wear them now.

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