Death Trooper Build Heat Gun/Trimming Questions (and more)

[GC Trooper]

Hello Spec Ops Community,

So, it's been a few weeks since I've obtained a set of fiberglass DT Armor and I think I've bitten off just a tad more than I can chew alone and without the proper guidance. Before I post the questions, I would like to state that I have next to no experience doing anything armor related, save for maybe some dry brushing/weathering--I'm pretty good at that--but everything else is extremely new to me. That being said, before I go out and purchase half a dozen new tools for the work I need to do, I'd like to go into this comfortably and knowing what to expect and do without making too many mistakes (and hopefully no major ones).

Also, I would like to state that while most of these questions are about heat guns and trimming/mending, a few are about painting and audio as well; but the majority in the list are about the subject matter. I hope that's not too much of an issue--just wanted to post the entire list in the hopes that maybe a few people see it and can offer even a little bit of advice, tips, guides, anything at all to help me out.

That being put out there, here are the questions I have about my armor:

1.) The biceps, shins and hand guards all need to be warped/expanded in order to properly fit me. Since I'm working with fiberglass, I was told a heat gun would be the best way to fix these and have them fitted to size. What kind of heat gun, gloves and tools would you recommend for that process?

2.) A lot of the armor casts have to be trimmed or sealed (imperfections on the edges, excess molding on the edges, etc.). I read that a dremel bit tool with 80 grit sandpaper would likely be the best way to trim any excess/thicker bits without damaging the armor. For filling, I heard Bondo is best--and I do have some, but I'm not great at using it. Any tips for Bondo sealing and molding would be appreciated too.

3.) Every time I spray, I keep getting imperfections in the paint job. I washed the armor several times to clear any fiberglass residue, I sprayed in ideal temperature/humidity conditions, but I keep getting these "tacky" looking paint jobs and I'm wondering why and how I can get them to look polished and clean like so many other armors. About the only pieces I'm happy with (save the helmet) are the shoulder bells.

4.) There are a few pieces that will need to be glued (thermal detonator, wrist rockets (which I'm considering repainting to be a bit more metallic in appearance). I have Loctite Vinyl and Plastic sealer--but I have to be honest, I'm a bit leery of using that on heavier stuff, because the scope on my SE-14r blaster didn't hold up with it for very long, despite waiting 72 hours to handle it. I also have E6000, but I've had some bad experiences with that too. Any other recommendations or should I just use Velcro?

5.) Speaking of Velcro; what would you recommend for adhering Velcro onto certain pieces without worrying about the sticky backing falling off?

6.) I'm also looking for a way to make my helmet's audio be heard more clearly from outside of the helmet. You can hear it if you're right next to me, but in a crowded room or area, it'd be nearly impossible/very difficult if you were any farther away than say 3 feet or so.

Any help that any of you who have built DT's or have even worked with fiberglass before can give me would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for taking the time to read this post and I'll check back in soon!

[Blackwatch[CMD-DCA]]

On 6/10/2021 at 12:17 PM, GC Trooper said:

Hello Spec Ops Community,

So, it's been a few weeks since I've obtained a set of fiberglass DT Armor and I think I've bitten off just a tad more than I can chew alone and without the proper guidance. Before I post the questions, I would like to state that I have next to no experience doing anything armor related, save for maybe some dry brushing/weathering--I'm pretty good at that--but everything else is extremely new to me. That being said, before I go out and purchase half a dozen new tools for the work I need to do, I'd like to go into this comfortably and knowing what to expect and do without making too many mistakes (and hopefully no major ones).

Also, I would like to state that while most of these questions are about heat guns and trimming/mending, a few are about painting and audio as well; but the majority in the list are about the subject matter. I hope that's not too much of an issue--just wanted to post the entire list in the hopes that maybe a few people see it and can offer even a little bit of advice, tips, guides, anything at all to help me out.

That being put out there, here are the questions I have about my armor:

I have worked with fiberglass and bondo to make armor bigger, by widening it with wooden paint stir sticks and then fiberglassing that.  So, Ill answer as best I can with what I know. 

1.) The biceps, shins and hand guards all need to be warped/expanded in order to properly fit me. Since I'm working with fiberglass, I was told a heat gun would be the best way to fix these and have them fitted to size. What kind of heat gun, gloves and tools would you recommend for that process?

I have never seen fiberglass bent with heat. I guess its possible, but ive neve seen it done, I alays had to cut parts apart, widen them as required, and re fiberglass and bondo then paint.    if you have some scrap, test that. 

2.) A lot of the armor casts have to be trimmed or sealed (imperfections on the edges, excess molding on the edges, etc.). I read that a dremel bit tool with 80 grit sandpaper would likely be the best way to trim any excess/thicker bits without damaging the armor. For filling, I heard Bondo is best--and I do have some, but I'm not great at using it. Any tips for Bondo sealing and molding would be appreciated too.

Fiberglass is what it is, a resin matrix with glass fibers inside, and sanding etc is going to make a horrible mess - use gloves, especially an exam type glove. use a respirator or dust mask, goggle, and long sleeves. If you have ever worked with fiberglass house insulation, its the same drill. its a MESS.  its literally strands of glass. There should be plenty of youtube videos on how to sand fiberglass.  If you havent done it before, its an experience. 

 The sticky parts are a seperate issue. That is fiberglass resin that has not cured properly.  your best bet there is to completely clean all fiberglass prior to painting with denatured alcohol, and prime with an automotive primer. After that dries, check for imperfections, fill, and prime again.  Then sand with 380-400 grit sandpaper used wet until your fiinish is perfect, then wash and let dry.  Perfect primer helps make perfect paint. 

   Mix your bondo THOUROUGHLY. I see people barely mixing it all the time. You have about three minutes total, so work fast. work on cardboard scrap, and apply. The thick you apply, the more you have to sand off.  Any bondo work you need to do, apply, let cure, sand, check level, reapply, sand, check level, etc until you get the finish you want. its all about practice.  Then you can prime with automotive primer.   I have sealed primer with extra thin superglue in the past, its what we do to mnodels which get micro thin paint applied to them. 

I used to have a whole tutorial on painting loaded to the JRS and photobucket ate it. 

On 6/10/2021 at 12:17 PM, GC Trooper said:

See above 

4.) There are a few pieces that will need to be glued (thermal detonator, wrist rockets (which I'm considering repainting to be a bit more metallic in appearance). I have Loctite Vinyl and Plastic sealer--but I have to be honest, I'm a bit leery of using that on heavier stuff, because the scope on my SE-14r blaster didn't hold up with it for very long, despite waiting 72 hours to handle it. I also have E6000, but I've had some bad experiences with that too. Any other recommendations or should I just use Velcro?

drill a hole and pin whatever to whatever. I use cut up wire coat hangers.  Roughen up the area,  clean thoroughly with denatured alcohol, put the pin in and glue it. I use regular hobby superglue, just dont use so much that it "frosts"  Glue alone wont hold a join very well but a mechanical join like a wire pin really helps take the load off. 


5.) Speaking of Velcro; what would you recommend for adhering Velcro onto certain pieces without worrying about the sticky backing falling off?

i rarely use stick back velcro. it gets hot and sweaty and falls off.  I use sew on velcro epoxied to my part. 

6.) I'm also looking for a way to make my helmet's audio be heard more clearly from outside of the helmet. You can hear it if you're right next to me, but in a crowded room or area, it'd be nearly impossible/very difficult if you were any farther away than say 3 feet or so.

Theres a bunch of differnt audo systesms out there, and they all have their ups and downs. I can hear mine 20 feet, but i get a TON of feedback I have never gotten rid of.  Check with guys in your garrison to see what they are using that you like. 

Any help that any of you who have built DT's or have even worked with fiberglass before can give me would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for taking the time to read this post and I'll check back in soon!