Accurate red paint for Crimson.

[TDNick0205]

So, as you can see, I’m asking what red paint would be great for a Crimson Stormtrooper. I don’t have white or black armor. But I have armor, but needs to be printed, filled, primed, sand, filled to get to the final stage. I have acquired Christhepropguy’s TK ANH TK files and they are great! So my plan, is making a Crimson and seeing what red would work fantastically on this build. Thank you all!

[RAIDER[COTG]]

Id peruse the pinned build pge…

 

[IcyTrooper[CMD-DL]]

Hello, Nick! Welcome and glad to see another Crimson in the works!

Are you able to post pics of what the 3D print will look like? Under our CRL guidelines we don't have 3D print as an option but looking at expanding some of our CRLs to catch up with new tech so we'd like to check the accuracy of it. I don't foresee it being an issue as long as the prints look good with accuracy and there are no visible print lines and it replicates the ANH style (not too sharp), however, that determination will be up to your local GML as they will be going off the CRL for review.

@RAIDER is spot on with the thread recommendation, it is good stuff!

[nanotek[CMD-DWM]]

I have access to the 3D files so will have a look tomorrow to make sure there’s nothing that sticks out. As long as they adhere to the look and feel of the ANH kit you should be fine. If it’s the sharp features of the R1/Solo kit then it will be a no. 
 

As stated by @IcyTrooperall the print lines will need to be smoothed out etc But if the files check out looking forward to see it built. 

 

 

[TDNick0205]

3 hours ago, IcyTrooper said:

Hello, Nick! Welcome and glad to see another Crimson in the works!

Are you able to post pics of what the 3D print will look like? Under our CRL guidelines we don't have 3D print as an option but looking at expanding some of our CRLs to catch up with new tech so we'd like to check the accuracy of it. I don't foresee it being an issue as long as the prints look good with accuracy and there are no visible print lines and it replicates the ANH style (not too sharp), however, that determination will be up to your local GML as they will be going off the CRL for review.

@RAIDER is spot on with the thread recommendation, it is good stuff!

I forgot how to post the pictures on the forum. And the picture through my phone is too big. Can you help me?

[TDNick0205]

2 hours ago, nanotek said:

I have access to the 3D files so will have a look tomorrow to make sure there’s nothing that sticks out. As long as they adhere to the look and feel of the ANH kit you should be fine. If it’s the sharp features of the R1/Solo kit then it will be a no. 
 

As stated by @IcyTrooperall the print lines will need to be smoothed out etc But if the files check out looking forward to see it built. 

 

 

Here’s that whole forum of the process he went through.
https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/47493-christhepropguy-tk/

The helmet that came with armor kit is ok. I’m saying this because the ears are not scaled to the proper size. I gotten the other helmet files just because the ear ranks are attached to the ears if that makes any sense. The TD I won’t use since I have a Anovos TD that can reused. What amazed me he added vacuum formed detail on the parts and is asymmetrical.

[IcyTrooper[CMD-DL]]

4 hours ago, TDNick0205 said:

I forgot how to post the pictures on the forum. And the picture through my phone is too big. Can you help me?

Hey no worries! You'll have to use a 3rd party hosting site for them to help save on space on our server. This thread has some tips as well, depending on the site you use:

4 hours ago, TDNick0205 said:

Here’s that whole forum of the process he went through.
https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/47493-christhepropguy-tk/

The helmet that came with armor kit is ok. I’m saying this because the ears are not scaled to the proper size. I gotten the other helmet files just because the ear ranks are attached to the ears if that makes any sense. The TD I won’t use since I have a Anovos TD that can reused. What amazed me he added vacuum formed detail on the parts and is asymmetrical.

He definitely came a long way and I see is still making adjustments to the helmet, albeit that is probably one of the hardest parts. A good portion of it looks good to the asymmetry that is that in ANH but I did notice he was making the 3D models in order to create the bucks and setup stuff for vacuform ABS pulling? I only saw one pic of the entire kit, so @nanotek would probably also look at the files since he said he has access to them.

[nanotek[CMD-DWM]]

I looked at the files and at first glance it appears they are pretty sharp, but I am getting more and more examples of other people's work with Chris's files and they look ok. Hard to tell with such low quality examples and I am trying to get a contact for someone who built this example who may be able to assist

[TDNick0205]

here’s the piece that took 10 hours to print.  Layer height of 0.3 and infill at 2%. I had to cut the chest on Mesh mixer to fit my printer.
 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/NVePBTp46YPW843i9

[nanotek[CMD-DWM]]

I think at any rate you have your work cut out for you as 3D printed stuff requires a fair amount of effort. You're going to have to factor in quite a few things

1. 3D printed is not flexible like ABS,  it only flexes one way before it breaks.

2. When you reinforce 3D prints, they become more rigid. Keep in mind if you need to reinforce it or not. Adding reinforcement also adds thickness.

3. Surface prep is key, you don't want paint seeping into 3D print lines. This happens even when the surface looks smooth! So seal it well.

4. Consider parts that require finishing on the inside like the shoulder bells as they rub on the outer surface of the biceps. If you don't consider this you will end up scratching off all the paint of your biceps. 

5. If some areas are too sharp you can always use fibreglass resin to soften them to give that vac formed look.

Considering that this is a completely new kit with lack of documentation of other builds, I would highly recommend starting a build thread. But only post pics when parts are closed to being finished (approaching paint phase), this will help staff determine if the overall look is fine. It's too difficult to determine what something will look like when it's freshly printed.

[TDNick0205]

Totally understand. When I get the parts printed and ready to assemble, believe me, I will be posting. This is a new journey in to printing and I want you all to join in. For me, I can afford this direction in printing armor pieces. I do have the Anovos armor was my first time ever building by myself and not so much guidance and became unwearable. To do it all over again, would like to lean towards a level one build, and I made that mistake going towards centurion and was prone to mistakes left and right, which happen to the first kit. Would like to spend money to do it all over again, but lol my honeymoon came first. So, would love the guidance and advice from all of you. 
 

So my printing projects right next to the armor.

I’ll update on the build!

https://photos.app.goo.gl/TSQ5iJneVdQaVCVj7

https://photos.app.goo.gl/TSQ5iJneVdQaVCVj7

[nanotek[CMD-DWM]]

Cool, we are here to support you and tbh it's new ground for all of us as the baseline armour is ANH, and it has a very unique look due to it being vac formed. I had a chat with the DL from FISD (who has provided guidance to Chris) and his understanding is the files were created to form bucks for vac forming, so this will also need to be considered in the build - you may have to use fibreglass resin to soften some of the sharper edges.

[Rat[501st]]

@TDNick0205I used dupli-color Flash Red automotive lacquer. Belt is Tkittle.

[Blackwatch[CMD-DCA]]

On 11/17/2021 at 12:36 PM, Rat said:

@TDNick0205I used dupli-color Flash Red automotive lacquer. Belt is Tkittle.

Rat were you able to keep all the red looking the same out of the rattle can *assuming same batch numbers* . Ive had one hell of a time with red.  If somethings going to give me trouble, its red.  

[mikedwelle94[TX]]

On 10/9/2021 at 9:10 PM, nanotek said:

I looked at the files and at first glance it appears they are pretty sharp, but I am getting more and more examples of other people's work with Chris's files and they look ok. Hard to tell with such low quality examples and I am trying to get a contact for someone who built this example who may be able to assist

Oh hey! That's me. The only part of my costume right now that's printed from those files is the helmet. 

Here are a couple closer shots of it. 

ATA natural red ABS (left), CTPG 3D print, painted with International Harvester red (right)

 

 

[mikedwelle94[TX]]

Sorry for the double post, but as someone who printed and finished a helmet, I do NOT recommend printing the entire suit. It is just way too much work and will never look as good as vacuum formed plastic. Maybe someone can do the files better justice than I did, but you can't get around the fact that you'll be spending dozens upon dozens of hours of filling, sanding, and painting. Not only that, but Stormtrooper armor is meant to flex. Encasing your entire body in a rigid plastic shell does not sound like a good time.

Maybe not what you wanted to hear, but you'll save yourself tons of work just saving up and buying an armor kit from a vendor. 

[Rat[501st]]

On 12/13/2021 at 10:35 AM, Blackwatch said:

Rat were you able to keep all the red looking the same out of the rattle can *assuming same batch numbers* . Ive had one hell of a time with red.  If somethings going to give me trouble, its red.  

Separate batches I believe, but it was pretty consistent. It takes about three cans for the full kit.