MKE-Trooper – Rogue One Death Trooper WIP

[MKE-Trooper]

38 minutes ago, TookBreaker said:

I would recommend JB Weld. Definitely will hold it together. E6000 is not strong enough.

Sounds good, thanks TookBreaker. 

[Chaos[CMD-DCA]]

Almost all of us with Jim's kit have the back overlap the front.

 

 

[TookBreaker[TX]]

Per CRL, the back overlaps - either the front or a piece that is under both parts: https://databank.501st.com/databank/File:Tx_imperial_death_trooper_chest.png

Regarding JB Weld, I recommend a black plastic weld, makes it easier to blend in with the black paint.

[MKE-Trooper]

52 minutes ago, Chaos said:

Almost all of us with Jim's kit have the back overlap the front.

 

 

Thank you both! It does seem to look better with the back overlapping with the front. 

51 minutes ago, TookBreaker said:

Per CRL, the back overlaps - either the front or a piece that is under both parts: https://databank.501st.com/databank/File:Tx_imperial_death_trooper_chest.png

Regarding JB Weld, I recommend a black plastic weld, makes it easier to blend in with the black paint.

Thanks ToolBreaker. I ordered J-B Weld yesterday and it is on it's way.  I will plan to use that to reinforce the shin closing. 

[DoggyDoc[CMD-DCA]]

10 hours ago, MKE-Trooper said:

As I was putting the shin piece on tonight to test I noticed that the seam was starting to loosen up and come undone a bit.  I am pretty sure E-6000 was used to glue the pieces together, should I add more of that in gaps or should I use JB Weld instead?

 

I found that the E6000 did not hold the front of the shins as there is a lot of strain on it when you open the back up.  I did use the JB weld on mine.

[DoggyDoc[CMD-DCA]]

9 hours ago, MKE-Trooper said:

For the lower connection point of the Chest and back, does it matter which way they overlap?  Currently I have the front overlap the back because otherwise the buckets get in the way due to sizing. This however creates a pointed overhang which I plan on trimming back.

Before I do that though I wanted to check and see if it matters as I have seen others have the back overlap the front. If I do it that way, I will also need to cut some of the back piece away so I can bring it in more. 

 

The over hang issue:

I have my chest piece tucking under my back piece as I think it looks cleaner. I found this screen capture where it looks like the back is over the chest however.  The question is, did the connection just come undone and the pieces opened up while they were running and going into the position in the photo?

[Chaos[CMD-DCA]]

Let me step in here, for everyone's situational awareness. The CRL does not specify in writing which piece needs to overlay. After looking at the ST upper armor construction, it is possible that there was a side piece that attaches between the front and back in which case the side piece is under the front and rear corners. However when we constructed the CRL, we had to use the photos we obtained from the SWC Exhibit shortly after the release of the movie. When we updated the CRL to it's current form, we intentionally left out any references to how the armor is arranged. This accommodated various builder's designs such as Tom's which uses the side insert and Jim's who has the front longer to reach back to the back piece. Either way per the CRL is correct.

On my Jim's kit the back piece sits flush up against my side buckle straps.

Here are some photos of screen used suits for reference:

 

 

[MKE-Trooper]

I am making some great progress as the weather in Wisconsin has finally warmed up and I can get outside and do some sanding and spray painting. 

First, thank you @Mal86 I was able to add a spot for the belt to Velcro on the front by following the same process  you used for your build. Thank you for sharing!

Using the same PVC board I used for the belt shelf, I created extension tabs for the collar and used JB Weld to glue them on.

Bondo and sanded the Gaps

And all painted. Not as smooth as I would like but no one but me will notice. I also had to add a small piece of felt to keep the buckle from scratching the paint when taking it on and off. 

I also didn't like the way the rubber bands around the left wrist guard were done so I redid them with some adhesive rubber strips we had laying around that we got off of amazon. I am actually really happy with the way it turned out. I used plasti-dip on the built-in greeblie but you really can't tell the difference between the paint. 

 

[MKE-Trooper]

Does anyone sell just the rubber shoulder straps? Thinking about replacing the ones that came with Jim's kit. 

[TookBreaker[TX]]

Yes, I got my rubber bands from Paul, who has a set for it: https://www.facebook.com/totalgrunt/

[MKE-Trooper]

2 hours ago, TookBreaker said:

Yes, I got my rubber bands from Paul, who has a set for it: https://www.facebook.com/totalgrunt/

Thank you @TookBreaker, I just sent him a Facebook message. 

[MKE-Trooper]

Big thank you to @DoggyDocfor sharing his Thermal Detonator bracket file with me. It looks so much better now. 

 

 

Also, thank you again to @TookBreakerfor providing me with Paul's facebook information. I just purchased new rubber shoulder straps and his metal shoulder brackets. 

It's funny how all these things that didn't bother me before I now want perfect. Screw you level 1 certification, Level 2 here I come

Thank you to everyone that has replied and provided support and feedback. It has really made this process more enjoyable and less overwhelming. 

[MKE-Trooper]

Now that I have my mind set on Level two certification I am starting to research what I all need to update. Not sure if this has been asked already but I am seeing some contradictions on the paint scheme for the Back Plate on the 501st Legion Databank.

If you compare the Back Plate Color Scheme image to the Back Plate reference photo  there are some slight differences. 

For example, in the color scheme guide only the deepest indent of the lower left box is flat black, however in the reference photo, both indent levels are painted flat black. Arrows in red on the reference photos showing the differences. 

@ChaosHoping you can chime in here and clarify. 

Also, any recommendations for Flat Black paint? I used "Rust-Oleum 7579838 Professional High Performance Enamel Spray Paint Gloss Black" for the Gloss Black, so my gut says I should just use the same brand Flat Black. I just want to make sure I achieve the correct visual distinction required to meet Level two.  To me the "Flat Black" looks closer to "Tamiya Metallic Black TS40"  in the reference pictures.

[TookBreaker[TX]]

@MKE-Trooper, here is what I used:

• For Tamiya color, I would definitely recommend to use this, as it just looks best in my opinion.
• As it relates to the black paint, I used for all black Rust-Oleum 7578838 Professional High Performance Enamel Spray Paint, Flat Black, the gloss came through the use SprayMax 2K High Gloss Finish Clear Coat Spray Paint.

[MKE-Trooper]

On 4/12/2024 at 5:58 PM, MKE-Trooper said:

Now that I have my mind set on Level two certification I am starting to research what I all need to update. Not sure if this has been asked already but I am seeing some contradictions on the paint scheme for the Back Plate on the 501st Legion Databank.

If you compare the Back Plate Color Scheme image to the Back Plate reference photo  there are some slight differences. 

For example, in the color scheme guide only the deepest indent of the lower left box is flat black, however in the reference photo, both indent levels are painted flat black. Arrows in red on the reference photos showing the differences. 

@ChaosHoping you can chime in here and clarify. 

Also, any recommendations for Flat Black paint? I used "Rust-Oleum 7579838 Professional High Performance Enamel Spray Paint Gloss Black" for the Gloss Black, so my gut says I should just use the same brand Flat Black. I just want to make sure I achieve the correct visual distinction required to meet Level two.  To me the "Flat Black" looks closer to "Tamiya Metallic Black TS40"  in the reference pictures.

I feel stupid replying to my own thread but I think I answered my own question. Looking at the costume gallery pictures taken from the screen used armor it appears that the Color Scheme guide is correct and the armor shown in the CRL is incorrect. I am not looking forward to masking off that gear to paint, lol. 

[Chaos[CMD-DCA]]

On 4/13/2024 at 1:58 AM, MKE-Trooper said:

Now that I have my mind set on Level two certification I am starting to research what I all need to update. Not sure if this has been asked already but I am seeing some contradictions on the paint scheme for the Back Plate on the 501st Legion Databank.

If you compare the Back Plate Color Scheme image to the Back Plate reference photo  there are some slight differences. 

For example, in the color scheme guide only the deepest indent of the lower left box is flat black, however in the reference photo, both indent levels are painted flat black. Arrows in red on the reference photos showing the differences. 

@ChaosHoping you can chime in here and clarify. 

Also, any recommendations for Flat Black paint? I used "Rust-Oleum 7579838 Professional High Performance Enamel Spray Paint Gloss Black" for the Gloss Black, so my gut says I should just use the same brand Flat Black. I just want to make sure I achieve the correct visual distinction required to meet Level two.  To me the "Flat Black" looks closer to "Tamiya Metallic Black TS40"  in the reference pictures.

Lighting plays a lot in sheen in photos, the model did have his cog painted different than the Color scheme, but the CRL says "may be painted" which means as long as it looks like a duck, it's a duck. However if your are shooting for Level 2, your suit must be IAW the Color Scheme. Since we were back logged during the CRL redo and I was in Kabul and the model was busy, we did not ask him to suit up again.