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3D printed weapons vendor inquiry


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I have the Shadowtrooper from "Walt's Trooper Factory", and am rather befuddled with it.. but I'll manage. 
I did find my boots and am making a black pauldron tonight.

Meanwhile, I'm trying to decide on weaponry.

I know a holster for the E11 is required.. and I have an E11 and am making a holster from the screen shots.

(I'm making one for my DL44 also for the snow speeder )

However, I'm a longarm gal. I compete with flintlock muzzloading rifles, and am more interesting in the various long arms they represent in the SW franchise... quite amazing variety actually. I'm wondering as a Shadowtrooper,  should I choose a DLT-19, or a T21? I know they are both in the requirement options, but which would I be happiest with?

Also, where to get it:
My DL44 is from 3D Cauldron, but they don't have the DLT-19 or T21, and don't have a DLT-20 either (for the Crimson Trooper my boyfriend is putting together) [ps he still hasn't found his red boots and my spray-paint the white ones I mentioned in a previous post]

We did find a company called "Bounty Hunter Armory" out of Australia has all 3 in 3D printed parts........... They have kit form and assembled/finished weapons at very resonable prices.......Bounty Hunter Armory T21

Has anyone heard of them? and if so, how are the reviews? I'm finding very little.
Their post of a couple 3D parts on Facebook look really good.

T21 bounty hunter armory photo on facebook.jpg

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Hello and welcome, Darylee! I'd say the choice of long-arm would come down to method of transportation and how much weight you want to carry around for troops. I do know that the weight will also depend on the material it is made with as well. I'm partial to a DLT-19 only because that is what I have, but it is also resin-cast and a bit on the heavy side. If it was an all 3D print construction it may be better with that department, however you may sacrifice the rigidity and longevity of it.

T-21s are sweet and I wish I had one. There is a guy in our garrison who did molds for them and had kits but he doesn't do them anymore. I know some people use actual wood for the stock portion of and it feels great. T-21s are the rarer of the bunch here in our garrison, so if you like rarity I'd go with that!!

There are so many 3D print companies out there but the pics in that look pretty legit. That price is outstanding for a fully printed and assembled price! In the US last time I had looked at one they were reaching $500 USD for painted and assembled.

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On 12/16/2021 at 8:18 PM, IcyTrooper said:

Hello and welcome, Darylee! I'd say the choice of long-arm would come down to method of transportation and how much weight you want to carry ...... last time I had looked at one they were reaching $500 USD for painted and assembled.

Thank you. 

I'm used to hunting with flintlock rifles, c-fusil, and muskets... they average 9# so I can't immagine a repro would weigh any more.... good for building the muscle memory.

Yea Kits here seem to be going for about the same as this website... but assembled etc of the DLT19 seems to be in the $300 range right now.. I ca't find another T21 so that does not surprise me if they are rare.... and I'm a rare breed being a woman and retired professional firefighter..... perhaps that's what I need to do.

Pictures just for giggles.

 

T21profile - Copy.jpg

DLT-19_Heavy Blaster.png

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14 hours ago, IcyTrooper said:

Go for the T-21! :P 

Yes, I believe I talked myself into it. I'll get a T-21 for me and a DLT20 for Dan..... But I'm still wondering about the 3d maker 'Bounty Hunter Armory' I'm still not getting any feedback from anyone good or bad.

 

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2 hours ago, FireMist said:

Yes, I believe I talked myself into it. I'll get a T-21 for me and a DLT20 for Dan..... But I'm still wondering about the 3d maker 'Bounty Hunter Armory' I'm still not getting any feedback from anyone good or bad.

 

Yeah I haven't heard of them but they do have that front-facing website which is a good sign to me. The price looks good and the model as well.

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  • 1 month later...

Well, reporting back on my scouting ....

I took a chance and ordered a DLT-20 AND a T-21
Both came, well wrapped in bubble wrap from Australia.
The little packages were marked 1 and 2 for the two blasters.
Here is a photo of one of the parts:
I'll let you know how it goes as I put them together..

So far, so good, and I got both at less than half the price of one blaster here that I would still have to paint also.

I'll let you know how it is as I progress, but right now, I'm pleased.

 

part for T21 possibly.jpg

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On 1/30/2022 at 2:05 PM, Dropkick said:

Keep us posted on your build progress. 

Sure will. I had to drive this week, but will likely start unwrapping all that and scratching my head about which part goes where on Thursday since we are to get snow.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...

Well, I finally got on it in April/May. It is assembled.  I assembled it and a T20 for the bf. 
I forgot to take photos, but looks good. There was one part missing.. the rounded thingy at the forward of the trigger assemply. In the Lewis gun, it is a selector switch. I sort of duplicated it with wood though they offered to mail me the missing part. I found an old CB channel switch knob to match the screenshot model perfectly.

I painted it up and used screenshots and a live real Lewis gun a friend had in his collection to replicate painting.

I painted the stock and the pistol grip plates a brown wood and the metal parts a gloss black since it is tough to replicate bluing on plastic. I added silver and gold spots where needed including the cooling fins (no photo of end result)

In the near future I will be spraying and wiping patina and other damage markings on it.

TO NOTE!!!!!!
It has broken at three main places multiple times. I currently have it in 3 pieces yet again. This time, it is getting glued together with at least two dowel rods one connecting the stock to the trigger assembly area. The other where the cooling fins join the body. This has to be drilled to accept the reinforcement. I am uncertain if I'll use PVC pipe, or just wood dowel. With prices, PVC may be cheaper and just as sturdy.

I did not sand it much so the machining lines of the 3d printer can easily be seen in several areas. I believe it will be less noticeable adding the patina. I know an fully understand it is a fault, but the gun is an optional item for the CRL, not required. 

Unpacked parts before dressing

T21 (1) - Copy.jpg

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closeup of underside  loading shelf. (Note, there is a cassette in the thingverse files if you want to have this double as a Lewis gun entirely. I did not find any of the required bipods etc that was standard on the original 

T21 (2) - Copy.jpg

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Good news is, Last Sunday I was able to join an Armor build party and meet more of the Bloodfin crew.... great folks from what I can tell. I made good headway on the uniform parts. One of the most valuable things I learned was to save the discards. When fill is needed, place the plastic in a jar of acetone and let it melt. Then use that to sculpt the patch etc. They also tipped me on some tools to make life easier.. (I already have for tin work, but never thought of for plastic) Also they suggested some other glues in addition to the Loctite CA glue I'd been using.  One is E6000 industrial strength adhesive. The other is another form of CA glue, Zap-A-Gap by pacer industries. It is a medium CA glue (not a gel) for gap filling. 

I also found out today what the extra part is for... It's a piece for the knee. It's a sniper knee. .. considering my choice of weapon, perhaps I should have that on instead of the other trapezoid. I do intend on getting a DLT19 as I think it will hold up to trooping better than the T20a.

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Good to hear! CA glue is good but if it is your first set of armor be careful. It allows super quick building but once it starts the chemical process of fusing there is nothing that is going to break it apart. E6000 can keep the parts together and it can come off pretty easily if something isn't right, the only downside is the dry time and strengthening time, if you are racing to put something together.

Depending on the maker of your kit, it could have come with two different types of sniper knees. One is for regular stormtroopers and the other is for sandtroopers. The one that looks more like a diamond is for sandtroopers. Here they are below:

Regular stormtrooper & shadow stormtrooper:

regulartksniperknee.PNG.e1c23c185b95602c1dc38eb78a3fa951.PNG

Sandtrooper:

sandtrooperknee.PNG.ce4c33f89734d833525d2befea222ee4.PNG

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On 6/17/2022 at 4:55 PM, IcyTrooper said:

...only downside is the dry time and strengthening time, if you are racing to put something together.......

Depending on the maker of your kit, it could have come with two different types of sniper knees. ........

Yes, there are benefits of longer dry time too... thanks.

This is a WTF setup. and is black. It has both knees and both are in the CRL with the sniper as a level 2 option. But have to decide now which I want. I see photos of others and looks like everyone has the first not the sniper.

I did choose the T21 and will be going level 2 for it with the sling option....just because I know from experience I like slings on my long arms. and since I'll be getting the DLT19 at some point.......

 

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4 hours ago, FireMist said:

This is a WTF setup. and is black. It has both knees and both are in the CRL with the sniper as a level 2 option. But have to decide now which I want. I see photos of others and looks like everyone has the first not the sniper.

To clarify, the top picture is the only approvable knee option on the shadow stormtrooper armor. Both pictures are a "sniper knee" but the top one is the one that is in the CRL, not the bottom one. That is unique to sandtroopers.

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