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Dark Trooper - Generation 3 - Mandalorian - CRL Discussion


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Hallo alle zusammen.

Ich Wünsche allen Darktrooper verrückten, einen guten Rutsch ins neue Jahr.

Viel Gesundheit und Glück für das neue Jahr.

Möge die Macht mit uns sein und uns im nächsten Jahr unser aller Projekt positiv beenden

 

Vile Grüße aus Deutschland

 

Andreas

 

Hallo alle zusammen.

Ich Wünsche allen Darktrooper verrückten, einen guten Rutsch ins neue Jahr.

Viel Gesundheit und Glück für das neue Jahr.

Möge die Macht mit uns sein und uns im nächsten Jahr unser aller Projekt positiv beenden

 

Vile Grüße aus Deutschland

 

Andreas

 

Hallo alle zusammen.

Ich Wünsche allen Darktrooper verrückten, einen guten Rutsch ins neue Jahr.

Viel Gesundheit und Glück für das neue Jahr.

Möge die Macht mit uns sein und uns im nächsten Jahr unser aller Projekt positiv beenden

 

Vile Grüße aus Deutschland

 

Andreas

 

Hallo alle zusammen.

Ich Wünsche allen Darktrooper verrückten, einen guten Rutsch ins neue Jahr.

Viel Gesundheit und Glück für das neue Jahr.

Möge die Macht mit uns sein und uns im nächsten Jahr unser aller Projekt positiv beenden

 

Vile Grüße aus Deutschland

 

Andreas

 

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On 12/31/2024 at 7:14 PM, Andreas Funk said:

Sorry, there was probably a glitch in the system, that's why it happened so often 😉

 

That's OK, no worries, it happens!

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I know we discussed the biceps with the shoulder bell armor, but they are two sperate pieces ergo why I said in the shoulder and in now in the bicep that they can be one piece, but we need to define them both separately just in case someone builds them separated:

Revision 0

Bicep Armor

  •  Gloss black in color unless noted below. May be painted IAW the Color Scheme Guide. If used, all armor pieces must be painted using the Color Scheme Guide.
  • One on each shoulder and are not interchangeable.
  • Each bicep is a mirror image of the other.
  • Is overlapped by the shoulder bell. May be incorporated with the shoulder bell as one single piece.
  • The bicep has an overall square appearance with the rear panel flaring out slightly the last 1/3rd to 1/4th at the top.
    • There are two raised panel details on the inside and outside of the bicep.
      • Both have a horizontal rectangle cut out positioned in the upper 1/3rd of the panel and a square cut out positioned in the bottom half.
      • The upper rear corner of each panel is angled to mimic the bicep rear panel flare. See CRL Photo.
      • The forward lower corner of each panel is angled rearward. See CRL Photo.
      • Panels are painted metallic black, matte black, or dark gray.
    • The outer raised panel is raised out more than the inside panel.
  • There is a raised panel on the front side of the bicep which is flared thicker at the top half.
    • There is a vertical rectangular cutout in the center of the panel.
      • There is a vertical rectangular insert with a beveled lower end in the center of the cutout. The top of the insert extends underneath the shoulder bell.
  • There is a recessed grove approximately 10mm wide around the lower edges of the bicep.
    • This recess is offset slightly upward from the lower edges.
  •  Biceps may be slightly weathered but must be uniform with the rest of the costume.

10aBicepssupportingphotos.thumb.jpg.f6788be591e47e9700f5330701ea0493.jpg

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Veryyyyy good. If we think they are incorporated as one single piece in the reference images we could make that a L2 detail. Some small edits for it:

Bicep Armor

  •  Gloss black in color unless noted below. May be painted in accordance with the Color Scheme Guide. If used, all armor pieces must be painted using the Color Scheme Guide.
  • Biceps may be slightly weathered but must be uniform with the rest of the costume.
  • One on each shoulder and are not interchangeable.
  • Each bicep is a mirror image of the other.
  • Is overlapped by the shoulder bell and may be incorporated with the shoulder bell as one single piece.
  • The bicep has an overall square appearance with the rear panel flaring out slightly the last 1/3rd to 1/4th of the length at the top.
    • There are two raised panel details on the inside and outside of the bicep.
      • Both have a horizontal rectangle cut out positioned in the upper 1/3rd length of the panel and a square cut out positioned in the bottom half.
      • The upper rear corner of each panel is angled to mimic the bicep rear panel flare. (See CRL Photo for reference).
      • The forward lower corner of each panel is angled rearward. (See CRL Photo for reference).
      • Panels are painted metallic black, matte black, or dark gray.
    • The outer raised panel is raised out more than the inside panel.
  • There is a raised panel on the front side of the bicep which is flared thicker at the top half.
    • There is a vertical rectangular cutout in the center of the panel.
      • There is a vertical rectangular insert with a beveled lower end in the center of the cutout. The top of the insert extends underneath the shoulder bell.
  • There is a recessed grove approximately 1/2 inch (12.7mm) wide around the lower edges of the bicep.
    • This recess is offset slightly upward from the lower edges.
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Next up:

Revision 0

Forearm Armor

  • Gloss black in color except as noted below.
  • One on each forearm and are not interchangeable.
  • Each forearm is a mirror image of the other.
  • Forearms have an elongated rectangular appearance with the upper (elbow) end wider than the lower (wrist) end.
    • There is a raised band around the upper section approximately 1/5th the length of the total forearm.
    • The rear panel is smooth with no details.
    • The front panel has an elongated rectangular recess with a piston like detail insert. 
      • The insert is painted metallic black or silver.
    • The inside panel has an elongated rectangular recess approximately 20-30mm wide which starts at the raised band and runs the length of the forearm ending at the wrist.
    • The front panel has a raised panel detail.  The panel has a horizontal rectangle cut out positioned in the upper 1/3rd of the panel and a square cut out positioned in the bottom half similar in appearance to the bicep raised panel.
      • The raised panel is painted metallic black, matte black, or dark gray.
    • Both have a horizontal rectangle cut out positioned in the upper 1/3rd of the panel and a square cut out positioned in the bottom half.
  • Forearms may be slightly weathered but must be uniform with the rest of the costume.

11aForearmssupportingphotos.thumb.jpg.2a2b362506bb6dae4f5e194bc30aa40f.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I got to check that Bicep section out!

I do have a question about the text that I have made red. With the mirror image part, is this a double negative if the preceding bullet point says they are not interchangeable? I could just be reading it wrong. I think the rest of it reads well.

Forearm Armor

  • Gloss black in color unless noted below. May be painted in accordance with the Color Scheme Guide. If used, all armor pieces must be painted using the Color Scheme Guide.
  • Proportional to the rest of the costume.
  • Forearms may be slightly weathered but must be uniform with the rest of the costume.
  • One on each forearm, they are not interchangeable.
  • Each forearm is a mirror image of the other.
  • Forearms have an elongated rectangular appearance with the upper (elbow) end wider than the lower (wrist) end.
    • There is a raised band around the upper section approximately 1/5th the length of the total forearm.
    • The rear panel is smooth with no details.
    • The front panel has an elongated rectangular recess with a piston like detail insert. 
      • The insert is painted metallic black or silver.
    • The inside panel has an elongated rectangular recess approximately 3/4" to 1 1/5" (20mm to 30mm) wide which starts at the raised band and runs the length of the forearm ending at the wrist.
    • The front panel has a raised panel detail.  The panel has a horizontal rectangle cut out positioned in the upper 1/3rd of the panel and a square cut out positioned in the bottom half similar in appearance to the bicep raised panel.
      • The raised panel is painted metallic black, matte black, or dark gray.
    • Both have a horizontal rectangle cut out positioned in the upper 1/3rd of the panel and a square cut out positioned in the bottom half.
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9 hours ago, IcyTrooper said:

I got to check that Bicep section out!

I do have a question about the text that I have made red. With the mirror image part, is this a double negative if the preceding bullet point says they are not interchangeable? I could just be reading it wrong. I think the rest of it reads well.

 

  • One on each forearm, they are not interchangeable.
  • Each forearm is a mirror image of the other.

Not a double negative at all. When worn and the arms are straight down, the piston greeblie faces forwards with the raised elongated rectangle greeblie on the outside of the forearm and the recessed rectangle on the inside. Thus the forearms are not interchangeable as that would reverse the positioning of the raised and recessed details. They are however identical in details so there is no difference in appearance other than them being mirrored. Don't know if you use Armorsmith but when you add a piece to the avatar and you select "mirror" it takes the piece and flips it to the opposite arm or leg etc. 

I did notice that I used the term "front panel" twice. The second usage should be "outside panel" ... changed below.

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Forearm Armor (revision 1)

  • Gloss black in color unless noted below. May be painted in accordance with the Color Scheme Guide. If used, all armor pieces must be painted using the Color Scheme Guide.
  • Proportional to the rest of the costume.
  • Forearms may be slightly weathered but must be uniform with the rest of the costume.
  • One on each forearm, they are not interchangeable.
  • Each forearm is a mirror image of the other.
  • Forearms have an elongated rectangular appearance with the upper (elbow) end wider than the lower (wrist) end.
    • There is a raised band around the upper section approximately 1/5th the length of the total forearm.
    • The rear panel is smooth with no details.
    • The front panel has an elongated rectangular recess with a piston like detail insert. 
      • The insert is painted metallic black or silver.
    • The inside panel has an elongated rectangular recess approximately 3/4" to 1 1/5" (20mm to 30mm) wide which starts at the raised band and runs the length of the forearm ending at the wrist.
    • The outside panel has a raised panel detail.  The panel has a horizontal rectangle cut out positioned in the upper 1/3rd of the panel and a square cut out positioned in the bottom half similar in appearance to the bicep raised panel.
      • The raised panel is painted metallic black, matte black, or dark gray.
    • Both have a horizontal rectangle cut out positioned in the upper 1/3rd of the panel and a square cut out positioned in the bottom half.
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Thanks for the clarification, I'm good with the text! :D

I have updated the main text section on the 2nd page. I think we are onto the Hands next?

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@IcyTrooper You are correct Sir!

 

Revision 0

Gloves

  • Gloves are black in color, made of either rubber, Nomex, fabric, leather, or leather-like material, with no visible straps or logos/ designs. The fingers are enclosed, non-textured.
  • Extend underneath the forearm armor.

 

Revision 0

Hand Amor and Fingers

  • Hand armor and fingers are gloss black except where annotated.
    • May be separate from or attached to the gloves.
  • The hand armor consists of two distinct pieces; a base piece and handplate.
    • The base piece which sits over the back of the hand is slightly curved across the back of the hand.
      • May have an outside (pinky) edge which is angled down and wrapped around to the palm.
      • May have an inside (thumb) edge which is shorter beginning just aft of the thumb joint and wrapped to the palm.
    • The handplate is flat and elongated with eight sides.
      • There is a square notch in the finger end of the handplate.
      • There are six raised elongated rectangles along the outside edge.
      • There is a raised pentagon on the back edge near the wrist.
      • Raised details are painted metallic black, matte black, or dark gray.
  • Fingers are armored in 2-3 rigid pieces per finger, proportionate in size to the fingers, with the fingertips ending in contoured trapezoids. There may be small circles on the fingertip pads.
    • The joints between the pieces have a circle detail resembling a mechanical joint.
    • Mechanical pieces may be present giving the appearance of the finger pieces being attached to the hand base piece.
  • The palms may have flat armor plates attached to the glove’s palm.
  • Hand armor may be slightly weathered but must be uniform with the rest of the costume.

12aGlovesandHandArmorsupportingphotos.thumb.jpg.33aa17017926228feeeb6f15974fbc33.jpg

 

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Just thought I would add this. Not so much a "reference" photo, but it is what my 3D hand files currently look like. This project was a "FUN" one.

Screenshot(17).thumb.png.4c86e3765426097547e4a54062a705fa.png

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Hallo

Bei den Fingern sollten wir uns besser an die Disney Puppe halten. An den Finger aus der Serie die am Computer erstellt sind wird es sonst schwierig funktionell zu bleiben. Ich habe zwei Versionen konstruiert die ich in meinem Baubericht vorgestellt habe. Wenn ich das Kostüm komplett fertig habe, werde ich diese vorstellen.

Es sollte ja auf jeden Fall gegebne sein einen Blasser zu halten und nach etwas greifen zu können und fest zu halten.

Gruß

 

Andreas

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@Andreas Funk yes the fingers and hands should be functional. My wording did not specify as I assumed it was obvious. I'll clarify below.

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Revision 1

Hand Amor and Fingers

  • Hand armor and fingers are gloss black except where annotated.
    • May be separate from or attached to the gloves.
  • The hand armor consists of two distinct pieces; a base piece and handplate.
    • The base piece which sits over the back of the hand is slightly curved across the back of the hand.
      • May have an outside (pinky) edge which is angled down and wrapped around to the palm.
      • May have an inside (thumb) edge which is shorter beginning just aft of the thumb joint and wrapped to the palm.
    • The handplate is flat and elongated with eight sides.
      • There is a square notch in the fingives end of the handplate.
      • There are six raised elongated rectangles along the outside edgand.
      • There is a raised pentagon on the back edge near the wrist.
      • Raised details are painted metallic black, matte black, or dark gray.
  • Fingers are armored in 2-3 rigid pieces per finger, proportionate in size to the fingers, with the fingertips ending in contoured trapezoids. There may be small circles on the fingertip pads.
    • The joints between the pieces are segmented to allow movement and have a circle detail resembling a mechanical joint.
    • Mechanical pieces may be present giving the appearance of the finger pieces being attached to the hand base piece.
  • The palms may have flat armor plates attached to the glove’s palm.
  • Hand armor may be slightly weathered thist got be uniform with the rest of the costume.
  • Like 1
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Hallo Chaos

 

Da ich schon einige Modelle der Hände praktisch getestet habe und ich mittlerweile tief in der praktischen Schwierigkeiten der Hände stecke, kann ich sehen, wenn du deine Modelle einmal Drucken und anprobieren würdest das sich die Übergänge von Fingern zur Handplatte zu lang scheinen und so nicht proportional zur Hand passen. Oder du kürzt die Finger sodass die Gelenke nicht zu denen der Finger passen und somit nicht bequem zur Praxis sind.

Aber ich lasse mich immer gerne eines bessern belehren, wenn du mal ein paar druckst und mal ein Praxis Video oder Bild schickst wird es hilfreich sein.

Ich denke die Hände der Disney Puppe der Ausstellung sind für uns besser um  zu setzen.

 

Gruß

 

Andeas

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https://imgur.com/a/XfKtHgq

Hallo 

Der Unterschied zwischen den CGI , HotToys zur Disneypuupe ist :

Vorne an der Handpaltte ist kein Quadrat sondern ein Trapez  und die 6 Streifen sind bei der Disneypuppe Rechtecke und bei den anderen an den Enden abgerundet.

Und egal wo man schaut sehen die Hände in der Serie immer wieder anders aus.

Wir sollten eine Kombination von der Hottoyspuppe und Disneypuupe machen, das wir uns zur gute kommen und einiges erleichtern.

 

Gruss

Andreas

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On 2/27/2025 at 7:58 PM, Andreas Funk said:

https://imgur.com/a/XfKtHgq

Hello 

The difference between the CGI, HotToys and the Disney doll is :

At the front of the palm of the hand there is not a square but a trapezoid and the 6 stripes are rectangles on the Disney doll and rounded at the ends on the others.

And no matter where you look, the hands in the series always look different.

We should make a combination of the Hottoys doll and the Disney doll to benefit each other and make things easier.

 

Greeting

Andreas

I think the posted CRL wording adequately provides the details to present the costume close to "screen accurate" as possible. We can further define L2 requirements later on.

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What's the Group consensus? Are we OK with this? Does it need any modifications?

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