Polarmuffins DeathTrooper build WIP

[PolarMuffin83]

4 minutes ago, DoggyDoc said:

Hey Philip. 
 

There are a few things that I can see that may be an issue with both basic and level 2 approval.

With respect to the thermal detonator, for level 2, the CRL states;

• There are two small notches on the outer ⅕ of each side of the canister approximately 3/4" (20mm) from the inner edge of the end caps and spaced approximately 1" to 1.25" (25-30mm) apart on the lower edge of each horizontal grooves. Refer to reference photos for specific details.

These appear to be missing on your print and should be in the area marked with the arrows 

‘With respect to the thighs, the basic approval for the CRL reads;

• Both thighs shall have a diagonal raised detailing to the front running from the outer ribbed panel to the raise cover strip.
  • This detailing continues from the cover strip to the base of the thigh armor as a recessed groove rather than a raised strip.

On your thighs, the groove is actually a raised area as shown with the arrows.  This may block you from basic approval but it will be up to your GML ultimately. 
 

  
 

 

got it, Ill start to work on the thighs to try to bring them into shape, looking now at the crl to see what you mean, in theory this shouldn't be too bad of fix but I'm going to reach out to GA to make sure he knows as well so if he updates the files later on for a future release he can fix it as well. Thank you! 

[Mal86]

On 2/28/2024 at 10:25 PM, PolarMuffin83 said:

Yea I would love some photos to send Jim for a reference! 

This is what Jim did for me.  It's slightly different than how Chaos has his set up.  It wasn't what I was expecting based on the photos I sent him, but it seems to work fine.  I mention it so you can make sure you get what you want.

[PolarMuffin83]

55 minutes ago, Mal86 said:

This is what Jim did for me.  It's slightly different than how Chaos has his set up.  It wasn't what I was expecting based on the photos I sent him, but it seems to work fine.  I mention it so you can make sure you get what you want.

I just sent him a message with the image from Chaos's DT Rigging where its free floating to clarify that I don't want straps attached to it, I'll see what he says if need be I'll have a friend tailor it since ik someone who does a lot of tailoring and all that. Thank you for showing me what he sent you! 

[PolarMuffin83]

 

so doing a quick mock up of what Ill try to do to get things fixed on the thighs, my plan is either 3d print a thin sheet- < 1/8th in. thick or place a plastic sheet ontop of what I have already on the thighs to create a valley instead of a ridge where there's an issue. On the note of the thermal det, I am going to go into the file itself and try to just use a cube to delete the spaces on it and just reprint it- or reach out to a modeler on the GA discord and see if they can alter the file for me to reprint. 
Thank you so much for pointing out these issues, as I work to get everything how it needs to be its been really interesting and a hell of a learning curve in multiple skills. 

Quick edit on this since i feel silly, i can just buy a 2 pack of 1/8th in. abs plastic on amazom and place it then cut into shape. Will have photos of this by Wednesday hopefully ☠️

[DoggyDoc[CMD-DCA]]

I would worry that putting a piece of ABS plastic would be tough to get to lay down evenly. Printing a new piece like you show would fit better. 
Another alternative would be build up the top part with some kind of filler and then taper it into the thigh armour itself. Once it has been flattened, the. You could demolish a groove into area that needs it. It may be tough to get a straight and even groove this way though. 

[PolarMuffin83]

54 minutes ago, DoggyDoc said:

I would worry that putting a piece of ABS plastic would be tough to get to lay down evenly. Printing a new piece like you show would fit better. 
Another alternative would be build up the top part with some kind of filler and then taper it into the thigh armour itself. Once it has been flattened, the. You could demolish a groove into area that needs it. It may be tough to get a straight and even groove this way though. 

I think the idea of creating the groove through a tapered edge is probably what I'll try to do, work with the secondary model part and taper it off to be thinner the higher it goes to reduce the overall bulk of what I'm adding 

[Chaos[CMD-DCA]]

Doc is spot on about the CRL issues. 

TD is an easy fix, but it will be tedious to sculpt all those little squares, also not mentioned intentionally in CRL but if you are wanting the best and most accurate TD, the right side end cap is longer than the left by about 10-12mm

For the thighs the outside continuation (other side of the center strip) of the raised detail is indeed a groove. Not sure the best way to fix that, unless you can sand it down and have enough material to then make a groove.

You might get lucky with both details and your GML will pass them for Level 1 basic approval, but I can tell you it won't pass a Level 2 look.

Glad to see you are back on track!

[PolarMuffin83]

not beautiful by any sense of the word but its in a state where the notches are there and spaced, Im going to clean things up sculpt the edges to be a little tighter and go for it. If yall think this would work, if not I can try to hop into a cad program and alter the file to have them to print on rather than how I did it here. Ik it probably means more in fit in finish how these look than rn but I figure its a risk so I should ask. 

[DoggyDoc[CMD-DCA]]

Wow.  That is a lot of fine detail to carve out  you did a good job but there may be a bit too much roughness at the base of the grooves.  Not sure how hard it would be to try and sand it smoother .  @Chaos has a better idea of if it would pass for level 2.  I suspect it would get basic approval still 

 

[PolarMuffin83]

8 minutes ago, DoggyDoc said:

Wow.  That is a lot of fine detail to carve out  you did a good job but there may be a bit too much roughness at the base of the grooves.  Not sure how hard it would be to try and sand it smoother .  @Chaos has a better idea of if it would pass for level 2.  I suspect it would get basic approval still 

 

This is still a fairly raw print and i popped these in before doing any sanding or layer filling so idk, I'll keep working on it and at least in the very end if this stops level 2 it will be an easier fix 😁 gonna put my head down and get some work done over the next few days 

[Chaos[CMD-DCA]]

Looking at what you accomplished on the TD notches, it should be able to pass L1 after some clean up. 

Here is an up close and personal look at the TD notches from my L2 submission. You can see the approximate spacing and size/shape of the notches. When you submit your L2 application you will be asked for the same type photo. 

 outside to 1st notch is approximately 1 3/32" to 1 1/16" notch width is approximately 1/8" distance between notches is approximately 1 1/16" to 1 1/8"

Here's a close up of a screen used suit TD, you can see the shape is basically a rectangle.

 

[PolarMuffin83]

4 hours ago, Chaos said:

Looking at what you accomplished on the TD notches, it should be able to pass L1 after some clean up. 

Here is an up close and personal look at the TD notches from my L2 submission. You can see the approximate spacing and size/shape of the notches. When you submit your L2 application you will be asked for the same type photo. 

 outside to 1st notch is approximately 1 3/32" to 1 1/16" notch width is approximately 1/8" distance between notches is approximately 1 1/16" to 1 1/8"

Here's a close up of a screen used suit TD, you can see the shape is basically a rectangle.

 

Looking at the up close it appears they are much smaller and shallower, i did use calipers to space them according to what was listed on CRL but will take a photo with those in it to show spacing since it may have been messed up upon melting them in. Thank you for these! 

[PolarMuffin83]

 

Okay, so the tool I used to melt it in was as I thought a bit too wide, almost double the width that I needed, this however seems like it will turn out pretty helpful; 
the crl says 20mm from the edge of the end cap for the first notch, and then 25mm-30mm apart. what this means for me, for the first notch I can fill in the half closest to the edge to bring it within a few mm of the requirement, for the second notch I can use whats there as a guide, and melt half the width of the tool on the far edge then clean everything else up. I would worry that they are too deep but again with a bit of miliput or paste I can more than likely sculpt it back into shape. Gonna take a few days off to work on school but will pick back up on saturday hopefully!

[PolarMuffin83]

 

Today went well, spend the day sanding the chest plate and working on the thighs and left shin. Adding this line was a huge pain; i used the soder ive been using to carve it in and not im going to fill it to be flat and then sand it to look nicer than it is. The thighs the plate looks added on right now so I am going to use some sculpting putty like milliput or similar to make it smooth and hopefully look better. The helmet, front chest plate, butt, ab, and cod pieces are close to being smooth I need to take some 300+ grit and finish it basically to be ready to paint. Aiming for May to be finished. 

[Chaos[CMD-DCA]]

Philip,

What a huge undertaking with the leg armor. I know you aren't completely finished and they are still a work in progress but I need to make sure you are aware of a couple of things. The shallow grooves you are fabricating are only about 3-5mm wide. They are not the same width as the forearm or bicep grooves. This is the same with the shin grooves.

[PolarMuffin83]

5 hours ago, Chaos said:

Philip,

What a huge undertaking with the leg armor. I know you aren't completely finished and they are still a work in progress but I need to make sure you are aware of a couple of things. The shallow grooves you are fabricating are only about 3-5mm wide. They are not the same width as the forearm or bicep grooves. This is the same with the shin grooves.

Got it! Will bring those in, thank you. 

[PolarMuffin83]

I've looked through the forums a couple of times and couldn't find it so I'm gonna ask here to try and get some help, does anyone have patterns for the soft belt boxes, the canvas and leather ones? I am also looking for the hard belt boxes and covers but I think I saw files for the boxes, just not the covers- my option on this is to have someone quickly do a model for it since its relatively simple geometry I am hoping for this to be cheap. 
Beyond that, about 1/3 of the kit is ready to paint, 1/3 needs bondo after my mistakes a few weeks ago, and 1/3 is still being sculpted to proper. My undersuit did come in from Jim Tripon, I haven't gotten the chance to try it on yet being at school but hopefully will next week when I go home for break. Between school and the issues with the kit itself this has definetly been more expensive and time intensive than I thought it would be but I have committed a lot so there is no going back! 

[Mal86]

I think @DoggyDoc had one in his thread. I initially used it as a go by, but modified it to make my own. 
 

I’m pretty sure I took a picture of the first version, but I found it easier to see by separating it. 
 

I’ll look through my photos later and see if I have one I can post. However, basically, I took the measurements from the CRL added some space for the seam allowance. 

[Chaos[CMD-DCA]]

Paul @Mal86 made his and posted this in his build thread. He may be able to be of some assistance.

I have a 3D file for the soft pouch covers.

The square belt boxes are an easy thing to model.

 

[Mal86]

What Chris posted was my first version.  I did one pouch like that and it was more of a pain.

I don't think I took a picture, but what I did for the other two was I took the bottom and sides and made them one piece of fabric.  The front was another piece of fabric.  The back was another piece, which was just another cut out of the front.  Then the top and the flap that goes over the front (as well as the little triangular portions) were another piece. 

This made for easier assembly and a cleaner look.

If you need any help or feedback, based on that, let me know.

[PolarMuffin83]

Got to try on the undersuit for the first time today, it's nice! I am worried about the fit of the shins since the suit adds a bit of material around my calves, but gonna be going to get materials to do all the rigging tomorrow which is fun! 

[PolarMuffin83]

Man it's been a good while since I've posted, I'm still working on the kit but I had to take a break on it but am back now. Doing some painting to match the color scheme and wanted to ask about the flat black areas, they are a different black than the gloss black correct? Like a subtle shade lighter difference? 

[Chaos[CMD-DCA]]

2 hours ago, PolarMuffin83 said:

Man it's been a good while since I've posted, I'm still working on the kit but I had to take a break on it but am back now. Doing some painting to match the color scheme and wanted to ask about the flat black areas, they are a different black than the gloss black correct? Like a subtle shade lighter difference? 

Good to see you back on this! The FLAT/MATTE black is a standard black, what makes it look "lighter" is the sheen of the paint, light is scattered in a wider pattern than if it was a gloss. Any brand of Flat/Matte black will work.