SirCalcium[TX] Posted May 5 Share Posted May 5 Since I'm my garrison's Imperial Army armourer, and there's no specialist there too, I'll post my build log here, then make a supercut on my garrison's forum. Last year I bought an unfinished Mudtrooper costume (currently 4th person whose owned it). Due to other life commitments I expect this build to take it time. Anyways here's what I've got on hand Helmet Magnet on the inside to let the mask snap onto Mask Tubes Belt (unfinished) Gloves (medium sized, may need to get bigger ones) Poncho Has Leather Gromits Shoulder Bells (unfinished) Shins (one of the shins was broken when I bought it and will need some filling) Chest Piece I've noticed there are still print lines on these parts. Back Piece Part of the collar broke in 2 parts Misc 3D printed parts, webbing, and other bits that were sold with the kit As part of a purchase, this satchel was included, looking at the CRL there's no mention of one, but thought I'd show it just in case Things to do. I've bought some russian jackboots, currently waiting for them to arrive. Purchase the soft parts. I'm not sure which is the better provider, KeepTrooping or JimTripon? Looking for a scarf, I know ebay is the place to look Fill in print lines and repaint the armour. CRL tells me which paints to use via pantone code, but finding those as an of the shelf brand seems difficult. Source a blaster, looking at the CRL there's plenty to choose from. Fix the collar. Since it's broken in 2 parts, I'm thinking about pulling the full thing off and replacing it. One of my garrison friends is working on a Mimban Officer with the chest piece and showed me his collar piece, could I get confirmation if this would be acceptable? 1 Link to comment
minimo[CMD-DCA] Posted May 5 Share Posted May 5 Awesome assortment of parts! Replacing the collar could work as long as it has the same look, I know peeps that have replaced it with a rubber one, but it has taken some modding. I would personally recommend using the pantones, especially for the grey overspray, but some have found paints that pass. The bag is the “yugo bag”, many of the clips and slides come from scavenging that bag. Will those tubes be long enough? Have fun and let us know if ya need anything? 1 1 Link to comment
SirCalcium[TX] Posted May 5 Author Share Posted May 5 I had looked for rubber collar's, no luck yet. I know 850 Armor Works sells ABS ones, but I have no experience with them. I emailed Imperial Surplus if they sold the collars separate, they do not. I had thought about just using the one I showed, the benefit being it just slots into the chest piece, but I'd rather get feedback if it can be used, or if the standard design is the only acceptable one Link to comment
minimo[CMD-DCA] Posted May 6 Share Posted May 6 Hmmm, I would say it would depend on how it looks after. It is really hard to visualize how the end product will be, when you are pulling the collar from a different kit. Is your intent to cut off the already existing collar from your kit and replacing it with another? If that’s the case, are they the same files or two different designs? I would need so see how it fits into the backpiece. Another thing to consider is how it fits into the front? Width, length, angle of drop will all play a part. 2 Link to comment
SirCalcium[TX] Posted June 23 Author Share Posted June 23 Ok, I got the alternative collar piece and compared it to the current collar, and it's not going to work As can be seen, the alternative is considerably bigger than the standard, that said it was meant for the Mimban Officer armour. Second problem, it's too thick. Bit of a shame because I like this method connecting the collar to the chest more. For the time being I may just ask around my garrison i anyone's able to print another collar, but I'd also need to find the same model that my armour uses. In some other news I got some boots too, but another issue, they fit my big feet, but don't fit around my calves, so thats something else I've got to figure out. The next thing to figure out would be the soft parts, and where to get them from. 1 1 Link to comment
minimo[CMD-DCA] Posted June 24 Share Posted June 24 Bummer… Jim Tripon and Keep Trooping make decent soft goods. We have seen many have issues with the calves. You can try taking it to a cobbler to modify them. Some have opted on getting custom boots from Crowprops. 1 1 Link to comment
SirCalcium[TX] Posted August 4 Author Share Posted August 4 Another update (small one). Speaking with a fellow member of my Garrison who was printing a Muddy/ICAT armour himself kindly gave me a collar piece. After a collar transplant surgery (aka rip the old one off, and glue the new one on) we now have a better backplate Image montage I also did a test fit to make sure the new collar fits the frontplate Just in case I'm asked how did I bond the collar. I used standard superglue for the first bond, followed by gorilla glue after the first glue had set, and as an added security I even placed some epoxy putty to ensure maximum bond! Next step is filling in the print lines, and my method of choice is to use Motip spray putty Basically this is very thick filler paint, apply a coat, wet sand, repeat until perfect surface. When it came to soft parts, I haven't made any purchases, until I know I have the cash to spare (still have to pay the bills). What I've also been doing is researching for the correct paints (ideally for Specialist clearance), and I've set myself the probably impossible goal of finding off the shelf paints available in the UK. I've even went as far as converting the pantone codes into RAL to widen the search. To ask the daft question, do I need the paints to be pantone specific for Specialist? 1 Link to comment
minimo[CMD-DCA] Posted August 5 Share Posted August 5 Looking great! As far as the paints go, if you are going for specialist clearance, I would recommend getting the Pantones specified in the CRL. Being in the UK, for the green color, you can head over to Halfords for cans of Vauxhall Leaf Green. That was the on set touch up paint and an acceptable substitute. 1 Link to comment
SirCalcium[TX] Posted August 17 Author Share Posted August 17 Bit of an update. I went to my local Halfords to find said paint, and I'm note sure when but they seem to have changed their paints because they don't stock Vauxhall Leaf Green. Whilst in store, I was advised of a local business that mixes spray paints, but to RAL classic codes. I did ask if they did used Pantone codes, they don't. I've done some looking and I know Pantone can be converted to RAL classic, but would it work? I took these screenshots from a site that did conversions 1 Link to comment
minimo[CMD-DCA] Posted August 17 Share Posted August 17 From what I have heard, RAL doesn’t match great to the Pantones. The RGB is 84 103 88. Could try using that to find a match? 1 1 Link to comment
SirCalcium[TX] Posted October 16 Author Share Posted October 16 Finally got something to report. My search for off the shelf paints that matched the pantone colours proved futile, so I went and bought the paints online, however before I can get to painting I've got some clean up on the parts. First, when I bought the armour one of the shin pieces needed fixing Along with that noticeable bit of damage there's plenty of cracks, whilst that would be some interesting battle damage, I know it won't fly, meaning I've got to fill it. It gave me a good opportunity to try a Upol glazing and Spot putty I've heard of. I'm impressed with this filler putty, even though I'm not a fan of the 2 compound versions. Would prefer if it could come pre mixed Not perfect yet, but it's getting there and I will update when it's ready to paint Bicep armour, not much to talk about, I've just been trying to fill the gaps. Will post an update when they too are good to go Now onto a (potentially) bigger issue, whilst rereading the CRL I noticed this line for the back plate "Half circle indent detail beneath the backpack section must be present." And I looked at mine Oh no! I'm guessing the first owner (aka the one who printed it) didn't realise that detail was missing, but given it's a mandatory requirement I've got to put that detail in. My thought to do this was to just carve or mill out the indent with a rotary tool, however I don't know the dimensions of the indent (how wide, high and deep it must be) Just for additional safety, is there an other missing/incorrect details on my back plate? Bit of a lengthy update, but I do appreciate any feedback 1 Link to comment
minimo[CMD-DCA] Posted October 17 Share Posted October 17 Hiya! Glad to see you back at it! In my armors the half circles are 5cm and 5.5cm at their widest and 2.5cm and 2cm at their tallest. The half circles are not deep at all, just a slight indent. But not all armors are the same size. The important thing is that it be proportionate to yours. There are some details missing in your back armor, mainly in the greeblies, but the crl doesn’t make specific mention of them, so I wouldn’t be too concerned. I think your main edit is going to be that half circle. 1 1 Link to comment
SirCalcium[TX] Posted October 30 Author Share Posted October 30 A quick update this time. I've been steadily working on the armour pieces, plenty of print lines to be filled in, and I'm waiting till I've got the parts primed and ready for painting before I show them off here. As for the missing detail on the backplate, I bought a compass and marked out where the indent could be. I followed the guide @minimo suggested being 5-5.5cm wide, and 2 - 2.5 cm high. Looking at my backplate and comparing it to the CRL model, would I need to redo the holes that I circled? If yes I'm sure I could achieve that effect with a rotary tool and a cylindrical or spherical sanding bit Side note trying the remove the print lines on the walls of the indents, and the grids is hard! 1 Link to comment
IcyTrooper[CMD-DL] Posted November 5 Share Posted November 5 On 10/30/2024 at 12:05 PM, SirCalcium said: A quick update this time. I've been steadily working on the armour pieces, plenty of print lines to be filled in, and I'm waiting till I've got the parts primed and ready for painting before I show them off here. As for the missing detail on the backplate, I bought a compass and marked out where the indent could be. I followed the guide @minimo suggested being 5-5.5cm wide, and 2 - 2.5 cm high. Looking at my backplate and comparing it to the CRL model, would I need to redo the holes that I circled? If yes I'm sure I could achieve that effect with a rotary tool and a cylindrical or spherical sanding bit Side note trying the remove the print lines on the walls of the indents, and the grids is hard! The two holes in the middle seem a little low but they shouldn't prevent approval on it. I think the one on the far side is good. 2 Link to comment
SirCalcium[TX] Posted November 5 Author Share Posted November 5 Good to hear the holes will work, my only concern is during the filling, painting and other repairs they may need cleaning out, again I can use a rotary tool for that. Other thing to ask, is the suggested size and location for the semi circle indent also suitable? Other than those, I've been chipping away at the belt boxes (usual finishing work for 3D prints) Link to comment
minimo[CMD-DCA] Posted November 6 Share Posted November 6 From what I am seeing looks to be about centered with that bottom left cutout. 1 Link to comment
SirCalcium[TX] Posted November 27 Author Share Posted November 27 Been off working, and simply priming the parts before painting, however I'd rather get the semi circle carved in before I make that step with the backplate. After doing some measuring, and taking note of given advice, here's what I've sketched Heres hopefully I've got that looking right before I go carving 1 Link to comment
IcyTrooper[CMD-DL] Posted November 27 Share Posted November 27 That looks to be in the right place to me. 1 Link to comment
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