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Forest Trooper - CRL Discussion


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This will be a thread for discussion of the Forest Trooper found in the Star Wars: Galaxies video game.

This will be the main listing and we'll tackle each part piece by piece (green is done, yellow is WIP, and red is not finalized):

  • Helmet 
  • Balaclava
  • Flight Suit
  • Shoulder Armor
  • Upper Arm Armor
  • Forearm Armor
  • Gloves
  • Vest
  • Chest Armor
  • Back Armor
  • Cummerbund
  • Belt and Detonator
  • Knee Armor
  • Boots and Boot Shafts
  • Holster
  • Neck Seal
  • Hold-out Blaster
  • E-11 Blaster
  • DLT-19 Heavy Blaster Rifle
  • DLT-19x Targeting Rifle
  • DLT-20a Blaster Rifle

 

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Description: Forest Trooper
Prefix: TX
Detachment: Spec Ops Detachment
Context: Star Wars Galaxies

Forest Troopers operated in limited numbers equipped with a recently developed camouflaged armor from Imperial Ordnance. This was a stark contrast to the white armored scout troopers that were easily spotted and targeted in the Battle of Endor and allowed these troopers to blend in for more efficient reconnaissance. 

Special Notes:

  • When specified, costume parts will be painted in a camouflage similar to that found in the reference photos:
    • Tan base base coat (see note about white showing through below).
    • Camo patterns colored dark green and dark brown .
  • May be slightly weathered to look as if white is showing through with minor scuffs/dirt.
  • The armor parts shall be made from one of these (or similar) types of materials:
    • Fiberglass
    • ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene)
    • HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene)
    • PLA, ABS, PETG (3D Printing)
    • Polyurethane Rubber
  • Blasters are not required for legion membership per our weapons policy
  • 3D Printed parts are permitted but all print lines and other artifacts must be removed.

Helmet

  • Helmet is painted to match armor.
  • Scout style helmet accurate in shape and form.
  • Eye lens is black or dark green.
  • Flat or concave elevator bolts.
  • Accurate squared emblem is located on the left faceplate "blinder".
    • A mirrored accurate squared emblem may also be located on the right faceplate "blinder".
  • Snout is gray with black details.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • Details are the correct color and placed as shown.
  • Scout style details are present, either painted or decals.
  • Ear holes are correctly shaped and have no mesh.
  • Black 3M Speedglas bolts or replicas mount the faceplate to the helmet. (Visible bolt head diameter of 22mm).
  • Accurate snout detail and aerator with accurate parts, mounted onto a plate and painted gray with black details. Please see the gallery for the accurate in-game snout.
  • Accurate squared emblem located on the left faceplate "blinder" and a mirrored accurate squared emblem located on the right faceplate "blinder".
  • Accurate rear helmet "bar code" striping pattern.
  • Accurate three lines on center of forehead area.
  • No visible seams on the dome.
  • No visible "vent" detail/indentions on lower right of back of helmet.

Balaclava

  • A balaclava is a black head sock/hood that is worn under the helmet and is used primarily to hide any view of the wearer’s skin and/or facial hair.

Flight Suit

  • The undersuit is a one or two-piece black textile suit, such as military flightsuits, motorcycle racing suits, industrial work clothing (Dickies), or similar suit modified appropriately.
  • Stand-up collar conceals the neck with an enclosing strap to keep the collar closed.
  • Must have a suede or faux suede butt flap attached above the waist hidden by the cummerbund and is rectangular in shape. The flap is slightly narrower than the width of the trooper and stops slightly higher than the bottom edge of the troopers backside.
  • Suede or faux suede thigh patches may be present, extending over the flight suit crotch and down the front finishing above the knee armor. The thigh patches must be secured by 2" (50mm) black elastic, sewn in under the front and back of the thigh patch.
  • See the Scout Trooper Flight Suit page for detailed images of the patches described below.
  • Suit must not have any visible labels, logos or zippers (including built in flight suit pockets).

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • Suit is fairly fitted and not baggy.
  • Black suede or faux suede thigh riding patch is removed. The 2" (50mm) black elastic runs completely around the leg/thigh.
  • Real black suede square/rectangular butt patch is attached to flight suit at the rear under where cummerbund sits. No external visible stitching.
  • Size will differ slightly from scout to scout, but correct scale is maintained.

Shoulder Armor

  • Painted to match the rest of the armor.
  • Black elastic is used to secure the armor around upper arm.
  • Shoulder pieces do not have any adornment.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • Armor is secured around bicep with a 0.5" (12mm) black elastic strap.
  • Bottom corners are rounded.
  • Optional: Affix top of shoulder bells to shoulder bridge loops

Upper Arm Armor

  • Painted to match the rest of the armor.
  • Armor has a recessed area with a contrasting black "T-bit" detail attached within.
  • Black elastic is used to secure the armor around upper arm.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • Armor is secured around the arm with a 1.5" (40mm) black elastic strap.
  • Accurate "T-bit" detail is mounted to the armor.
  • T-bit circle detail piece faces forward on each arm.

Forearm Armor

  • Painted to match the rest of the armor.
  • Black elastic is used to secure the armor around forearm.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • Armor is secured around the arm with a 1" (25.4mm) black elastic strap.

Gloves

  • Black leather and gauntlet length.
  • Detailed gloves include:
    • Black suede or faux suede patches on top of the middle finger, index finger, and thumb.
    • Four tightly spaced ribs that span the knuckles.
  • There are no labels/logos, clips, or external straps.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • Suede or faux suede padding on fingers and inside of thumb and correct gauntlet stitching.

Vest

  • Made out of black fabric.
  • Sleeves are padded and contain ribbing similar to the front of the cummerbund.
  • The sleeves are just slightly longer than the bottom edge of the shoulder armor.
  • Vest has a much wider neck opening than the flight suit.
  • Secured at the back using 2" (50mm) black hook and loop fastener.
  • Vest should be made of same or similar fabric to the cummerbund.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • The vest is separate from the flight suit and cummerbund.
  • Made using the Vest tutorial.

Chest Armor

  • Painted to match the rest of the armor.
  • There is a recessed rectangular area present over the right breast that must be painted black.
  • The chest and back armor join together over the shoulder and the gap covered with a loop of olive-green fabric.
  • The sides of the chest armor are attached to the back armor with black webbing or elastic.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • Shoulder bridge covers, covering the join between the front and back of the armor, are made of fabric that is dyed or painted to match that of the armor it connects.
  • Nylon webbing is inaccurate.
  • Side under arm chest/back straps are made from 1.5" (40mm) black webbing or elastic strap.

Back Armor

  • Back and tank are painted to match the rest of the armor.
  • The back armor has a center tank attached and may feature a single bottom attachment rivet.
  • The top of the tank is flat with a detail piece painted black.
    • Top detail piece uses the same greeblies as seen on the screen-used ROTJ Biker Scout armor.
    • Top detail piece is painted matte black.
    • The tank has black stripe detail.
    • Optional: Additional "rank indicators", present on the right side of the tank, can number between 0 to 7 stripes.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • Back and Tank must be two separate parts, no single part back/tank plates will be admissible.
  • Has 7 stripes details on both sides on tank.
  • Bullet tank on the back armor has NO tank topper greebles detail.
  • Rear tank has properly placed pin striping and if a single bottom attachment rivet is present, it must be painted to blend in with armor.
  • Blinking lights or LED's on the bullet tank are not acceptable.

Cummerbund

  • Made from black fabric.
  • Closes in back with 2" (50mm) hook and loop fastener.
  • Extends from just under the chest armor down to the waist.
  • There is no gap between the belt and cummerbund.
  • Cummerbund should be made of same or similar fabric to the vest.
  • Has a tapered cod section with inverted curve sewn in detail (not a chevron).
  • Cod is olive-green in color and made of the same type of fabric/material as the cummerbund. 
  • Connects between the legs to the back of the cummerbund by a 2" (50mm) black elastic strap.
  • Front of cummerbund has 5-7 equal ribs stitched, centered between the two black fabric pouches.
  • Ribs are of equal width.
  • Ribs are completely visible between the pouches.
  • Cummerbund touches the bottom of the chest armor.
  • Cummerbund slightly overlaps the belt.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • Made from the Cummerbund tutorial page.
  • The cummerbund is separate from the flight suit and vest.
  • There is no visible external edge stitching on the cummerbund, the cod or pouch flaps.
  • Pouches are made from a matte black heavy cotton or canvas like material.
  • Bottom edge of the pouch flap must be less than half the overall width of the pouch.
  • Pouch size to conform to individual size; should fit in gap between chest armor and belt with minimal overhang.
  • Codpiece must conform to shape pictured in the CRL and source art, and is dyed or painted to match that of the armor.
  • Cod strap runs between the legs, but attaches to the flightsuit or some other area under the butt flap, and does not show overtop.
  • Codpiece must not have excessive bunching around groin area.
  • Optional: Codpiece is separate from the cummerbund and attached to either the vest or the flight suit.

Boots and Boot Shafts

  • Marine vinyl which is not too glossy in appearance, used to construct the boot shaft, and is painted/weathered to match the rest of the armor. Each boot shaft has the following details:
    • Two (2) black straps, made of leather, leather-like material, or marine vinyl and are approximately 1" (25.4mm) wide.
    • Each strap wraps completely around the leg, beginning and ending at the back of the boot. The seam of each strap closure terminates on the rear of the boot shaft.
    • Boot shaft terminates just below the knee armor and a seam may be present on the back of the leg of each boot shaft.
  • The soles of the boots are gray.
  • A "dog bone" shaped strap covers the bridge of the foot and is black in color. Marine vinyl is also used.
  • Toe of the boot is black marine vinyl, leather or leather-like material. 
  • The boots are secured up the back using 1" (25.4mm) black hook and loop fastener.
  • Slightly textured vinyl, leather or leather-like material is acceptable.
  • No holster is present on the boot.

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • The boots have slots cut into the sides and sole, but not on the toe part of the boot.
  • The boot sole is a single gray color with no visible stitching.
  • Boot shaft closure is inside over outside, opposite of normal scout boots.
  • Boot shaft black strap closure seams are offset of that of the rear seam from the boot shaft closure.
  • Boots that are constructed too wrinkled (i.e., not stretched/fitted correctly prior to gluing) or poor in appearance will be refused.
  • Stitching, if any, used for the boot should be colored or painted to blend in to the area they are used.
Link to comment

Helmet also appears to have a decal on both sides of the visor. The normal "hook" decal/detail on the left, but then there is also another Mirrored looking decal on the right side. 

Link to comment

For the helmet. It appears, from what I can tell, that the helmet is missing the "Vent" detailing on the right lower side as is present in all the other scouts. 

It also appears that there is an added decal/detail on the right side of the visor, opposite of the "hook" detail on the left side. looks like a mirrored hook detail. so same decal sitting on the opposite side, with the same mirrored orientation 

Helmet
  • Scout style helmet accurate in shape and form.
  • Eye lens is black, dark green or silver mirrored.
  • Helmet is painted to match armor. White undertone/base with green/brown camo like appearance. 
  • Flat or concave elevator bolts.
  • Snout is gray with black details.
  • Same Details as present in the Biker Scout, with colors matching visual reference. 

I am not sure what constitutes level 2 over level 1, but maybe a detail of level 2 would be that the vent detail on the lower right of the back of the helmet is removed.

And the added "mirrored" hook detail on right side of helmet

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):

  • Details are the correct color and placed as shown.
  • Scout style details are present, either painted or decals.
  • Ear holes are correctly shaped and have no mesh.
  • Black 3M Speedglas bolts or replicas mount the faceplate to the helmet. (Visible bolt head diameter of 22mm).
  • Accurate snout detail and aerator with accurate parts, mounted onto a plate and painted gray with black details.
  • Accurate squared emblem (Hook) located on the left and right faceplate "blinder".
  • Accurate rear helmet "bar code" striping pattern.
  • Accurate three lines on center of forehead area.
  • No visible seams on the dome.
  • No visible "Vent" detail on lower right of back of helmet.

 

Balaclava I would say falls in line with the current used in the CRL. Covers the face and neck of the wearer. 

Balaclava
  • A balaclava is a black head sock/hood that is worn under the helmet and is used primarily to hide any view of the wearer’s skin and/or facial hair.
Link to comment

Flight suit. This one is interesting, as it does not appear to have the middle riding patch, but does seem to have a butt flap present. I would say for basic level, we use the standard that is being used with the Shadow and Swamp scout? but for higher level, remove the riding patch, and instead require that the 2 inch elastic strap completely surround the upper thigh?

 
Flight Suit
  • The undersuit is a one or two-piece black textile suit, such as military flightsuits, motorcycle racing suits, industrial work clothing (Dickies), or similar suit modified appropriately.
  • Stand-up collar conceals the neck with an enclosing strap to keep the collar closed.
  • Must have a suede or faux suede butt flap attached above the waist hidden by the cummerbund and is rectangular in shape. The flap is slightly narrower than the width of the trooper and stops slightly higher than the bottom edge of the troopers backside.
  • Suede or faux suede thigh patches must be present, extending over the flight suit crotch and down the front finishing above the knee armor. The thigh patches must be secured by 2" (50mm) black elastic, sewn in under the front and back of the thigh patch.
  • See the Scout Trooper Flight Suit page for detailed images of the patches described below.
  • Suit must not have any visible labels, logos or zippers (including built in flight suit pockets).

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
  • Suit is fairly fitted and not baggy.
  • Black suede thigh riding patch is removed. 2 inch black elastic runs completely around the leg/thigh
  • Real black suede square/ rectangular butt patch is attached to flight suit at the rear under where cummerbund sits. No external visible stitching.
    • Size will differ slightly from scout to scout, but correct scale is maintained.
Link to comment

Shoulder armor is the same as the other scouts, but with a White base under tone, and a green/brown camo like application over top

Same for most the armor parts honestly, if not all. 

Shoulder Armor
  • Black elastic is used to secure the armor around upper arm.
  • Shoulder pieces do not have any adornment.
  • painted to match the rest of the armor.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
  • Armor is secured around bicep with a 0.5" (12mm) black elastic strap.
  • Bottom corners are rounded.
  • Optional: Affix top of shoulder bells to shoulder bridge loops.
Link to comment
Upper Arm Armor
  • Armor has a recessed area with a contrasting black "T-bit" detail attached within.
  • Black elastic is used to secure the armor around upper arm.
  • Painted to match the rest of the armor

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
  • Accurate "T-bit" detail is mounted to the armor.
  • T-bit circle detail piece faces forward on each arm.
  • Armor is secured around the arm with a 1.5" (40mm) black elastic strap.
Forearm Armor
  • Black elastic is used to secure the armor around forearm.
  • Painted to match the rest of the armor.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
  • Armor is secured around the arm with a 1" (25mm) black elastic strap.
Link to comment
Gloves
  • Black leather and gauntlet length.
  • Detailed gloves include:
    • Black suede or faux suede patches on top of the middle finger, index finger, and thumb.
    • Four tightly spaced ribs that span the knuckles.

There are no labels/logos, clips, or external straps.
 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
  • Suede or faux suede padding on fingers and inside of thumb and correct gauntlet stitching.

Same vest, for consistence 

Vest
  • Made out of black fabric.
  • Sleeves are padded and contain ribbing similar to the front of the cummerbund.
  • The sleeves are just slightly longer than the bottom edge of the shoulder armor.
  • Vest has a much wider neck opening than the flight suit.
  • Secured at the back using 2" (50mm) black hook and loop fastener.
  • Vest should be made of same or similar fabric to the cummerbund.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
  • The vest is separate from the flight suit and cummerbund.
  • Made using the Vest tutorial.
Link to comment
Chest Armor
  • There is a recessed rectangular area present over the right breast that must be painted black.
  • The chest and back armor join together over the shoulder and the gap covered with a loop of olive-green fabric.
  • The sides of the chest armor are attached to the back armor with black webbing or elastic.
  • Chest is painted to match the rest of the armor.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
  • Shoulder bridge covers, covering the join between the front and back of the armor, are made of olive-green fabric.
    • Nylon webbing is inaccurate.
  • Side under arm chest/back straps are made from 1.5" (40mm) black webbing or elastic strap.
Link to comment
Back Armor
  • The back armor has a center tank attached.
  • The top of the tank is flat with a detail piece painted black.
    • Top detail piece uses the same greeblies as seen on the screen-used ROTJ Biker Scout armor.
    • Top detail piece is painted matte black.
    • The tank has black stripe detail.
    • Back and Tank are painted to match the rest of the armor.
    • Optional: Additional "rank indicators", present on the right side of the tank, can number between 0 to 7 stripes.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
  • Back and Tank must be two separate parts, no single part back/tank plates will be admissible.
  • Has 7 stripes details on both sides on tank.
  • Bullet tank on the back armor has NO tank topper greebles detail.
  • Rear tank has properly placed pin striping and a single bottom attachment rivet, painted to blend in with armor.
  • Blinking lights or LED's on the bullet tank are not acceptable.
Link to comment
Cummerbund
  • Made from black fabric.
  • Closes in back with 2" (50mm) hook and loop fastener.
  • Extends from just under the chest armor down to the waist.
  • There is no gap between the belt and cummerbund.
  • Cummerbund should be made of same or similar fabric to the vest.
  • Has a tapered cod section with inverted curve sewn in detail (not a chevron).
  • Cod is dark green in color and made of the same type of fabric/material as the cummerbund. 
  • Connects between the legs to the back of the cummerbund by a 2" (50mm) black elastic strap.
  • Front of cummerbund has 5-6 equal ribs stitched, centered between the two black fabric pouches.
  • Ribs are of equal width.
  • Ribs are completely visible between the pouches.
  • Cummerbund touches the bottom of the chest armor.
  • Cummerbund slightly overlaps the belt.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
  • Made from the Cummerbund tutorial page.
  • The cummerbund is separate from the flight suit and vest.
  • There is no visible external edge stitching on the cummerbund, the cod or pouch flaps.
  • Pouches are made from a matte black heavy cotton or canvas like material.
  • Bottom edge of the pouch flap must be less than half the overall width of the pouch.
  • Pouch size to conform to individual size; should fit in gap between chest armor and belt with minimal overhang.
  • Codpiece must conform to shape pictured in the CRL and source art.
  • Cod strap runs between the legs, but attaches to the flightsuit or some other area under the butt flap, and does not show overtop.
  • Codpiece must not have excessive bunching around groin area.
  • Optional: Codpiece is separate from the cummerbund and attached to either the vest or the flight suit.
Link to comment
Belt and Detonator
  • The front and four "boxes" of the belt are made of hard material.
  • Hanging from the sides of the belt are hip boxes (drop boxes) connected to the belt by 1.5" (40mm) black textile straps.
  • Each drop box strap is threaded behind a black side release buckle centered on the strap.
  • Attached to the back of the belt is a rectangular thermal detonator box with short black corrugated hose.
  • Accurate thermal detonator greeblies are attached to the box.
  • The rectangular part of the thermal detonator greeblie, fixed on the left side of the detonator, is the same as used in the rebel Endor trooper rank badge.
  • On the right hand side is the same round greeblie as used on the Scout tank topper.
  • See the detonator detail page for a close up image of the greeblies.
  • The TD box is secured by one single black tie wrap, with side buckle to fasten belt hidden under the box out of sight, or velcro fastening attached with 2" (50mm) black cotton or nylon belt secured on each end of the belt with a single rivet painted to match the rest of the armor.
  • Belt and TD are painted to match the rest of the armor.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
  • The belt is made from a one-piece construction with no visible gaps, and not separated with fabric in between sections, apart from at the back where the TD box sits. Making any joins in a 3 part belt seamless, is highly recommended.
  • The straps attached to the drop boxes to the belt are made from 1.5" (40mm) black cotton webbing.
    • Drop boxes hang the correct distance from the belt.
    • Nylon webbing is inaccurate.
  • Thermal Detonator end caps to be concave and not flat.
  • Optional: Thermal Detonator must have visible black clips attaching it to the web belt.
  • Optional: Thermal Detonator tube to be wire wrapped and not ribbed tube.
  • Optional: Thermal Detornator may have Hex shaped cap with a center "nipple" detail. 
Link to comment
Knee Armor
  • Knees painted to match the rest of the armor.
  • Black elastic is used to secure the armor around the leg.
  • Knee may have 2 elastic straps securing the knee armor in place, with the top strap being smaller than the bottom, about 1/2 inch (12 mm).
    • If a rivet is used to secure the second strap, it must be painted to match the rest of the armor, blending in with the knee paint.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
  • Knee armor has only one elastic strap measuring 1" (25mm) wide and passes through the bottom of the knee armor.
Link to comment
Boots
  • White marine vinyl which is not too glossy in appearance, used to construct the boot shaft, and is painted/weathered to match the rest of the armor.
  • Boot shaft has two (2) black straps, made of Leather or marine vinyl and are about 1 in wide, wrap completely around the leg, beginning and ending at the back of the boot. 
  • The soles of the boots are gray.
  • A "dog bone" shaped strap covers the bridge of the foot and is black in color. Marine vinyl is also used.
  • Toe of the boot is black marine vinyl. 
  • The boots are secured up the back using 1" (25mm) black hook and loop fastener.
  • The calf of the boot rises to just slightly beneath the knee armor.
  • Slightly textured vinyl is acceptable.
  • No Holster is present on the boot.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
  • The boots have a flat sole with notches accurate to the visual model cut in.
  • The boot sole is a single gray color with no visible stitching.
  • Boot shaft closure is inside over outside, opposite of normal scout boots.
  • Boots that are constructed too wrinkled (i.e not stretched/fitted correctly prior to gluing) or poor in appearance will be refused.
  • Stitching, if any, used for the boot should be white and painted to blend in, or black when used on the toe area.
Link to comment

Holster

  • None is present.
Optional Accessories

Items below are optional costume accessories. These items are not required for approval, but if present appear as described below. If adding in an accessory after initial approval, the item still needs to be submitted to local GML for approval before use.

 

 
 
 
TK anh stunt neckseal.jpeg Neck Seal
  • Black with horizontal ribs, fitted to the wearer, and extending from the base of the neck to the top of the Adam's apple.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
  • Prohibited for a movie accurate costume.

 

 

 

 
 
 
TB scout pistol.jpeg Hold-out Blaster
  • Flat or semi-gloss black.
  • Blaster does not have any visible trigger.
  • Blaster is lightly weathered.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
  • The scope has lens discs cut into the scope for a more realistic appearance.
  • No decals representing cross hairs or similar.
  • No drilled barrels. The screen used blasters did not have drilled barrels.
  • Kenner toy blasters, modified Kenner toy blasters or resin recasts of Kenner toy blasters are not acceptable due to the fact they are approximately 10% larger in scale than an accurate style blaster.

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
TK anh stunt e11.jpeg E-11 Blaster

Manufactured by BlasTech Industries, the E-11 is standard-issue for many Imperial troops. Light, compact yet powerful, the E-11 blaster is always in high demand throughout the galaxy.

  • Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
  • Folding stock.
    • Stock does not need to function.
  • A real or replica ammo counter - based off of a Hengstler counter - should be present.
  • D-ring mounted on the rear.
  • Correct style scope.
  • Two power cylinders on the magazine.
  • Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters should have a total of 6 t-racks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the Hengstler side un-covered).
  • If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster, it is modified to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total), with a lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side.
    • This is accomplished by covering the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, then grinding off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side, and drilling a new row of holes in its place.
  • 3D printed blasters can not contain visible print lines and must be sanded smooth for a more realistic appearance.

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
Generic-dlt19.jpeg DLT-19 Heavy Blaster Rifle

Manufactured by BlasTech Industries, the DLT-19 heavy blaster rifle is much more powerful with a much greater range than the E-11 blaster. Because of its powerful, long range capabilities, this rifle is commonly used on Imperial controlled planets with large, clear, open areas.

  • Based on a real or replica MG-34 machine gun.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
  • A DLT-19 is an MG-34 with T-tracks on the barrel, ejection port cover added, and a small disk on left side.
  • 3D printed blasters can not contain visible print lines and must be sanded smooth for a more realistic appearance.

 

 

 

 
 
 
Generic-dlt19x.jpeg DLT-19x Targeting Rifle

Manufactured by BlasTech Industries, the DLT-19x targeting blaster was a blaster rifle, and a variation of the DLT-19 heavy blaster rifle. Unlike the DLT-19, the DLT-19x released all of its power in one shot before it would need to cool down. The DLT-19x was a very powerful weapon, and could take down most enemies in one shot. The weapon had a scope which could be zoomed in farther than most scopes. The DLT-19x was a weapon of choice for many snipers, and was very effective.

  • Based on a real or replica MG-34 machine gun.
  • Real or prop scope.
  • Flat or semi-gloss black.
  • Blaster is lightly weathered.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
  • T-tracks present on the barrel.
  • Ejection port cover added.
  • Real or prop SinglePoint scope with modifications.
  • Small disk on left side.

 

 

 

 
 
 
Generic-dlt20a.jpeg DLT-20a Blaster Rifle

The BlasTech DLT-20A blaster rifle was a long-barreled rifle (sometimes referred to as a "longblaster") with a top-mounted rangefinder and electronic sight. It had automatic and semiautomatic settings and a rate of fire very close to that of the DC-15A blaster rifle and other longblasters. This was one of the few blaster models produced with a magnatomic adhesion grip, keeping the weapon firmly in the wielder's grip and making him or her more difficult to disarm. With additional collimating rings and longer conduits of galven circuitry, these rifles have improved consistency in their shots.

  • Based on a real or replica STG-44 machine gun, with parts from the Browning M1919.
    • Real or prop scope.
    • Flat or semi-gloss black.
    • Blaster is lightly weathered
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@Gree23 Just a heads up I have been reading this but want to take it in a bit more before responding.

  • Thanks 2
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On 6/4/2024 at 2:31 PM, Gree23 said:
Boots
  • White marine vinyl which is not too glossy in appearance, used to construct the boot shaft, and is painted/weathered to match the rest of the armor.
  • Boot shaft has two (2) black straps, made of Leather or marine vinyl and are about 1 in wide, wrap completely around the leg, beginning and ending at the back of the boot. 
  • The soles of the boots are gray.
  • A "dog bone" shaped strap covers the bridge of the foot and is black in color. Marine vinyl is also used.
  • Toe of the boot is black marine vinyl. 
  • The boots are secured up the back using 1" (25mm) black hook and loop fastener.
  • The calf of the boot rises to just slightly beneath the knee armor.
  • Slightly textured vinyl is acceptable.
  • No Holster is present on the boot.

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
  • The boots have a flat sole with notches accurate to the visual model cut in.
  • The boot sole is a single gray color with no visible stitching.
  • Boot shaft closure is inside over outside, opposite of normal scout boots.
  • Boots that are constructed too wrinkled (i.e not stretched/fitted correctly prior to gluing) or poor in appearance will be refused.
  • Stitching, if any, used for the boot should be white and painted to blend in, or black when used on the toe area.

First...it's always great to see an old project resurrected and someone willing to attempt completion.  Let's go!

Starting here with the boots since this seems to be where you'll build will start (so don't want to hold that up).  My only thoughts:

  • I don't see a "dog bone" anywhere.  Maybe I'm missing it but it just seems like it's a camo boot w/ a black toe/bridge covering.  I would say some verbiage that it should match the reference image shape (to get that "swoop") should probably be included.
  • I noticed throughout alot of the build sections, white is identified as a base.  I don't know a ton about camo techniques but my eye doesn't really see white anywhere at least not enough to identify it as a required base.
    • The Kashyyyk trooper CRL uses this verbiage "Camo pattern to simulate on-screen troopers."  
    • In the old CRL topic (we may to dig that up a bit @IcyTrooper) the original people attempting to build had identified some camo patterns/techniques that might be worth looking at.
  • And lastly this is more question...do those straps around the calf have notches (side view)?
  • Like 1
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20 minutes ago, RAIDER said:

First...it's always great to see an old project resurrected and someone willing to attempt completion.  Let's go!

Starting here with the boots since this seems to be where you'll build will start (so don't want to hold that up).  My only thoughts:

  • I don't see a "dog bone" anywhere.  Maybe I'm missing it but it just seems like it's a camo boot w/ a black toe/bridge covering.  I would say some verbiage that it should match the reference image shape (to get that "swoop") should probably be included.
  • I noticed throughout alot of the build sections, white is identified as a base.  I don't know a ton about camo techniques but my eye doesn't really see white anywhere at least not enough to identify it as a required base.
    • The Kashyyyk trooper CRL uses this verbiage "Camo pattern to simulate on-screen troopers."  
    • In the old CRL topic (we may to dig that up a bit @IcyTrooper) the original people attempting to build had identified some camo patterns/techniques that might be worth looking at.
  • And lastly this is more question...do those straps around the calf have notches (side view)?

Totally agree! And thats what I love about this is the collaboration. I said base is white because its a camo overlay of thr scout. But definitely agree with the "camo matching reference". 

 

Also, i do believe if you look at the reference photos there does seem to be a stitch or some type of "joint" on the black straps of the boots.

 

It also appears, and would like general consensus, is that the boot gator overlaps from inside to out, opposite the Scout boots

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14 hours ago, Gree23 said:

It also appears, and would like general consensus, is that the boot gator overlaps from inside to out, opposite the Scout boots

The back you're referring to?

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Yes. So on the normal scout boot, its required that the boots close outside over in. But it appears that on this trooper they are opposite, with the inside overlapping the outside. 

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16 hours ago, RAIDER said:

First...it's always great to see an old project resurrected and someone willing to attempt completion.  Let's go!

Starting here with the boots since this seems to be where you'll build will start (so don't want to hold that up).  My only thoughts:

  • I don't see a "dog bone" anywhere.  Maybe I'm missing it but it just seems like it's a camo boot w/ a black toe/bridge covering.  I would say some verbiage that it should match the reference image shape (to get that "swoop") should probably be included.
  • I noticed throughout alot of the build sections, white is identified as a base.  I don't know a ton about camo techniques but my eye doesn't really see white anywhere at least not enough to identify it as a required base.
    • The Kashyyyk trooper CRL uses this verbiage "Camo pattern to simulate on-screen troopers."  
    • In the old CRL topic (we may to dig that up a bit @IcyTrooper) the original people attempting to build had identified some camo patterns/techniques that might be worth looking at.
  • And lastly this is more question...do those straps around the calf have notches (side view)?

I was looking at the in game photos again, and if you go and look at the parts, I definitely see white. Specifically looking at the chest. You can see white in the center showing through the green. its on a lot of the edges of the armor as well. I guess that also played into a lot of the "white as a base" as opposed to someone using a black ABS kit and painting over that. but I think I like your wording of "camo pattern to simulate on screen or "in game" troopers"

 

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11 hours ago, Gree23 said:

Yes. So on the normal scout boot, its required that the boots close outside over in. But it appears that on this trooper they are opposite, with the inside overlapping the outside. 

K just making sure I was on the same wavelength.  I think something like that can make for a good L2 req if you want…if someone wanted to transition a scout build to this that would make it a little bit easier to do so.  Going L2 would require a whole new boot altogether and then I think it’s reasonable to ask for that extra detail.

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9 minutes ago, RAIDER said:

K just making sure I was on the same wavelength.  I think something like that can make for a good L2 req if you want…if someone wanted to transition a scout build to this that would make it a little bit easier to do so.  Going L2 would require a whole new boot altogether and then I think it’s reasonable to ask for that extra detail.

I mean it would kinda need a new boot anyway, no? Because there is no dog bone (if we take that out) then it would need a new toe anyways? But I am all for making it a L2 requirement. So normal "standard scout" is acceptable for L1, but L2 the boot must be constructed with an inside over out closure at the back. 

 

I would also like to see that the boot "straps" meet at the outside of the boot, towards the back. So half way between the middle side and the back of the boot? 

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I think taking the dog bone off and adding a toe cap isnt really a totally new boot …can still keep the boot base (without the flat sole) and the all the other upper/heel vinyl (which is where the closure overlap is).

And yea the location of the notches or whatever those are sounds good to me.

  • Like 1
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That sounds good. And i understand now. Ok so that is good.

Any comments on my notation of the white seen on the armor? Or should we just leave it with the camo as it appears on the reference photos? 

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8 minutes ago, Gree23 said:

That sounds good. And i understand now. Ok so that is good.

Any comments on my notation of the white seen on the armor? Or should we just leave it with the camo as it appears on the reference photos? 

For me, the white isnt super important…just cause i think the camo is gonna cover up almost all of it (my eyes still dont see it eeek lol).

  • Like 1
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