Aes' General Weir WIP

[IcyTrooper[CMD-DL]]

What @Chaos said to tack them down is good for that. There was a rear reference image that we have that showed a wider strap on the back into a smaller strap where the boxes attach, which is why the L2 detail is smaller for that strap.

[Aesmodan[501st]]

@IcyTrooper for sure, was just mentioning the 3d printed bandolier boxes from @thisiskevin have a 1.5” slot, the CRL model pics have a 1.5” webbing passing through them joining to the broader 2”, but the CRL text states the more narrow webbing is 1”.

https://databank.501st.com/databank/File:Tx_GeneralWeir_bandolier.jpg

Wasn’t sure which was correct  

 

Bandolier thoughts:

It appears to start the boxes on the tops of the yoke of the breastplate, I might put a strip of velcro on top of the fabric that hides the forward/back plate connections and stick the bandolier to it (black and red velcro).  This avoids putting Velcro on the plates.  The boxes end just below the breastplate on either side of the pecs, so I’ll space the boxes evenly across this width.  Also thinking of backing all the boxes with thick red felt so they won’t scratch up the breastplate… will also think up a way to keep the cross across the chest so they don’t slouch.

Question: this leaves the back attachment. How does one attach the bandolier at the lower back?  Velcro on the bottom of the breastplate?  Perhaps the cummerbund…

[Aesmodan[501st]]

Had a first suit up today!

Update / ideas / to do:

1. Just did bondo, drying on helmet - added liquid fibreglass resin to bondo mud for smoother finish and strength (adds some weight…)
2. Ordered lenses from Trooper Bay (tried automotive vinyl had lying around, looks bad)
3. Add elastic thumb loops / stirrups to sleeves and pant legs?
4. Placed 1” velcro under the lower part of the breastplate attached to cummerbund to keep the breastplate in place -- works great
5. Might install a pocket on chest of flak vest to be hidden by breastplate to hold wallet during troops
6. Glued magnets into the boot holster to keep the holdout blaster in place
7. Added 2” velcro to the top of fabric covering where the breastplates come together -- Weir’s bandolier will anchor there
8. Placed 2” velcro at lower part of breastplate to attach the lower part of Weir’s bandolier
12. Will back the bandolier with red felt; add some red velcro to mid boxes to keep them crossed and fixed in place
13. Might try lining the lower part of knee armour with EVA foam to reduce the armour bite and help them stick out
14. Need to install the suede saddle/buttflap
15. Sewed in 2” velcro at rear of cummerbund for de/attaching codspiece
16. Line the lower part of arm armour pieces with black felt to prevent scratching from overlaps
17. Added about a foot of red paracord to boot heel loops to help ‘shoehorn’ the boots on during troops, might add grommets to the boot tongues with more paracord (easy to hide inside boots)
18. Black chin cup, black steel brackets (presume chin cup attached to visor bolts?) and slick red strapping acquired to add to inside helmet

 

Handy to refer back to, documenting thoughts in the event this helps someone with a Shadow / Weir in the future!

[Aesmodan[501st]]

Advice needed! @Chaos @Dropkick @RAIDER

Second attempt at rivet in the bottom of the back tank.

It’s creates a bit of a divot in the plastic... a passable job? (First time using a rivet gun).

(All rivets to be painted over with black nail polish bought from the dollar store).

Also, if I understand the reference, the CRL for Specialist says not to put on the top tank greeblie?
https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TX_general_weir
(Model pics have the greeblie on).

 

For the knee armour, do we care if the elastic is riveted in?

I've done all the strapping as double sided velcro, mainly so they're always adjustable, but also so the straps are always replaceable (only the belt strap has been glued).

 

Thinking about riveting a zip tie anchor in instead, through which the 0.5" elastic will pass, for these reasons.  (While the shoulder bell doesn't involve a rivet, I've installed it with zip anchors for its 0.5" elastic already).

Cheers mates

[Blackwatch[CMD-DCA]]

Im not a Wier, and I may be wrong, so we need der experten in on this, but it may refer to the domed detail part, not the tank topper itself.  Looking at our CRL Gallery which is supposed to be set to L2 the tank topper is in place. 

 

i see the zip ancor riveted in, where would you put the other for the elastic? 

[Aesmodan[501st]]

Hello @Blackwatch!

Ah, I see -- probably does indeed refer to that black line decal that passes over the tank.  I'm not sorry then I won't have to place that!

I would put a zip tie anchor on both sides of both knees, rivet them in, and then pass the 0.5" elastic through the anchors (I did this with my shoulder bells, without the rivets).

(Rivets are not placed yet, posted here with the idea first, the pin is just sitting in the hole for now).

 

[Blackwatch[CMD-DCA]]

i had printed a bunch of those zip tie holders for my own scout project, so this affirms what I was planning. Smart idea! 

[Aesmodan[501st]]

Bandolier a bit fiddlie to mount, but I've established the way it will work:

(Thermal det is done and on the side there).

Velcro added to the back breastplate's base, and the cummerbund just below the forward plate to hold the 2" webbing.

Added more black to the bandolier to make it look weathered/battle-damaged on the lower, plain boxes there but I'm not sure I like it and will probably re-paint them.

Velcro added (hidden) to the front and back of the small rectangular box below the box with the backwards "L" to keep the crossed bandoliers in place -- works well.  I tried suiting up and this layout is solid and it won't rattle around.  The bandolier boxes have all been backed with thick red felt.

Need to bring in the flight suit (black Red Cap) so it's less baggy before I start on the suede saddle -- this guidance from PFs is great:
https://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/19259-undersuit-mods/

[Aesmodan[501st]]

Biceps ready and modular! (velcro on T-bits to make red/black swapable):

 

 

Forearms strapped up with velcro on each side of elastic as well, will place a piece on the flightsuit to anchor them:

 

 

Belt rivets and velcro in:
 

 

[RAIDER[COTG]]

On 1/12/2025 at 6:16 PM, Aesmodan said:

@IcyTrooper for sure, was just mentioning the 3d printed bandolier boxes from @thisiskevin have a 1.5” slot, the CRL model pics have a 1.5” webbing passing through them joining to the broader 2”, but the CRL text states the more narrow webbing is 1”.

https://databank.501st.com/databank/File:Tx_GeneralWeir_bandolier.jpg

Wasn’t sure which was correct  

 

Bandolier thoughts:

It appears to start the boxes on the tops of the yoke of the breastplate, I might put a strip of velcro on top of the fabric that hides the forward/back plate connections and stick the bandolier to it (black and red velcro).  This avoids putting Velcro on the plates.  The boxes end just below the breastplate on either side of the pecs, so I’ll space the boxes evenly across this width.  Also thinking of backing all the boxes with thick red felt so they won’t scratch up the breastplate… will also think up a way to keep the cross across the chest so they don’t slouch.

Question: this leaves the back attachment. How does one attach the bandolier at the lower back?  Velcro on the bottom of the breastplate?  Perhaps the cummerbund…

I dug through my old texts with kev and it looks like he just used velcro on the back plate there to attach the red straps at the bottom. I think thats what you were asking

[RAIDER[COTG]]

@Aesmodan Regarding the tank topper…Kev converted a shadow scout to the weir build, so his tank topper is in the CRL pic (CRL models do not necessarily need to portray the Specialist build…we prefer it but it isnt always possible) as it was already installed for his shadow scout.  We allow the topper for Level 1 as there may be (have been) others making the same conversion.

However, it isnt present in the comic panels and so it is a Specialist requirement to leave it off.

Elastic on the knees dont necessarily need to be riveted in for basic approval. For Level 2, the wording says they should be…not the illusion of being riveted.

Think that covers everything you asked about so far.

[Aesmodan[501st]]

@RAIDER Haven't driven those knee rivets yet, no worries and will do!

(Sorry -- by tank topper do we mean the thin line decal that passes over the tank?  Or the greeblie that sits on the top and should be riveted in as well?)