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-138's- strapping and tub storage pic heavy

craptastic or not too shabby   

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  1. 1. craptastic -or- not too shabby

    • craptastic
    • not too shabby

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OK this will be long , and im long winded also .. but ive had a lot of inquiries on how i strapped my tx kit together .. so here goes .


i got this kit second hand ,, so a lot of it was pretty bad off .. i did an OK job restoring it .. and its pretty solid now . it fits me good . and i can troop in it all day ..

did over 10 hrs in last year at relay .it was a breeze its an actual old school fx kit . thick black abs . trimmed all the bells and whistles .. all the original fx details


it had a lot of really thick yellow industrial glue holding it together i had to slice away at it with razor blades to get it of and separate parts . some parts i just left alone.

and it was all meshed together with stretched out elastic ..


i have certainly over complicated it ... but i can adjust it when and how i need to .. for whatever weather-or type of trooping im doing with it .

well her goes i hope this works ?


its a lot of pictures...sorry

this is me at fcbd 2011 im 6'2 and about 200lbs in this pic ..so fairly thin in the arms and legs .. although the belt was a tad tight im slowly shedding some of that


this is me and tom and rick at fcbd - a portion of the spec ops presence here in the m.w.g.


i used a heavy weight seat-belt material i got from a bunch of car seats my wife said i had to cut apart for disposal . as they had expired and were no longer safe for use .so i thought hmm? i might need these some day so i saved them like the pack rat i am


i guess ill start with the helmet .. work my way down through the body to the legs which are the most confusing and extensive ..

well here is the out side .. standard fx tx abs helmet - shadow version .

i did my helmet off of toms magma .. id seen it in the forums spec ops trooper listings before he was so hugely lucky to obtain it .. i love to see it every time he wears it out !! im a big fan so i did the standard Grey tk sticker kit . (toms may be properly painted?) i left he ear caps black and did the frown with a chrome sticker material i got at the auto parts store ..and did the lenses out of motor cycle shield.







standard fx ... i did a lot of work on the ear caps to make them sit right .and i did leave the crappy aerators for the chrome ends but taped off around the sides with black tape . and did the black black tube stripes ,i did have to remove and reinstall the brow, again auto material for motor Holmes i think? and i removed and moved the chin where it should be placed i think its ok looking


and then i went to work on the inside ..



i removed the helmet hard hat that was inside . and i had to disassemble and re-glue the entire helmet as it was hot glued together and that had begun to let go ..

so the whole thing was moving as you tried to wear it . it not only was assembled wrong it was glued wrong so lucky for me ...:Dso once it was back together . and solid ...... i put in the lenses .. which was a pain they would not bend ---at all

they would snap and break . heating them didn't help it just warped them or made them un-see able to view through ... so i had to cut them out of the rounded parts of the face shield so they basically fit in . and gooped them in . tinted them and the black taped around them to keep light from getting in or out .. close up they look ok inside looks crazy ...but i don't care ..im the only one looking through it .



then i used frown material(which is actually speaker grill cloth ) and a soft playable foam sheet material from the craft store for inside the face ..keeps the sweat from building up inside the helmet ...and i made my own foam and padding where i needed it to be ..


then i installed the electronics which for me is the most fun to figure out how to make fun stuff work ....:yes:







i did a skullworx basically ... with modifications .. i got hold of a old one and rebuilt off of what i thought it did .. i used a radio shack amp and all parts are radio shack ,

and bits and parts from toys and odds and ends i sourced .. and a target storm troopers from last years Christmas i dis assembled ..

i ended up with 4 9v+ two double AA's two fans and a set of odd speakers that came with the stuff in the box the last owner donated .. i do wish i could find more of the tiny speakers he had gotten mini 8 ohm fit into the aerators perfectly !!

so one switch is on off. on either side as normal and the center is a momentary in out i can hit with my chin to make the storm trooper talk .. all the normal white tk/td sayings:

open the blast doors/close the blast doors / look sir droids / let me see your identification / stop that ship blast em / move along / the death star plans are not in the main computer / move along / there's one set for stun / you can go about your business ... i have the toys speaker mounted behind the frown with a white headphone mounted as the mic works great small size.. and when im not hitting the button i can talk through the mike .. and i have a splitter installed so if i want i can plug a head set mic in and i can talk instead ..next to my mouth / it has great volume .ON A RADIO SHACK WHITE AMP WITH 2 9V+ INSTEAD OF THE ONE . but all the gear makes the lit a bit heavy .. but im tall and stretched out so it works good for me and keeps the bobble effect from happening .. and i have 2 9v+ on the fans so the defog appropriately... not much for keeping you cool but that's not what i intended them for .... or i would have done a bit bigger fans and up higher ....maybe ?


so on to strapping i made all the important parts adjustable .. in case i needed to put somebody my size in it with longer or shorter limbs as long as thier core size is close it do able ..

i have a lot of multiples for different temperatures and different style troops ..etc


the chest and back are one piece . as the previous owner glued them together with now support for the top straps ..(i also have a second assembly i use between this and my heavy gunner that is not all one piece )



under the top strap is soft sided velcro . in the center between the abs strap and the soft side is another velcro square one side holds the snap for the shoulder bell assembly and the other side holds it together for the weight of the assembly so the soft side does not sag under the weight and so the top abs strap isnt holding all the weight of everything ..in my mind anyway ?




and at the waist the standard elastic strap ..i did use much much smaller elastic than the stretched out mega elastic that was used the full size of the velcro ...which is all hot l glued to help keep its placement in heat situations ?


so on to the mid section as i said i over did it a bit ...:huh:



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IMG_0846.jpgIMG_0849.jpgIMG_0848.jpgIMG_0847.jpg the Velcro is to keep it all on solid as far as the belt goes . he had kinda the same set up i just replaced it made it look better and lined it up a bit better .. i also screwed the thermal detonate r to the belt aside from its Velcro .. i just don't want to have to go searching for it ...ever..:lol: as you can see it was completely assembled wrong ..and the tape is all wrong as far as the old fx were assembled back then ... i didn't think with the amount of glue and really not being able to get to it id just leave it this was instead of destroying it completely trying to fix it right (besides joe public has no idea how its supposed to be anyways ) i also chose to do the garter method on the lower half and the suspenders on the top half ..... i made the thighs,drop box's,and section below the shoulder bells above the forearms adjustable ...for others i may suit up,or weather i was marching -parade-ing or just standing around ...B)IMG_0850.jpgIMG_0851.jpgIMG_0852.jpgIMG_0853.jpgIMG_0854.jpgIMG_0855.jpg the back plate i had to velcro the sides for the filler plates on the front ab to connect to .. and i had to cut out and reinforce the holes for the suspenders .. also on the back suspender clips i had to use cloth velcro tape ..as im soooo tall the clasps stick out from under the back plate when i move ...and i had to redesign the rig that connected the cod and but plate .. so it would move up down and in and out as i need when moving while still being comfy and holding the cut from the ab/cod from allowing the cod to swing around freely -i could sit but never try to .. im a stander :whistling:IMG_0862.jpgIMG_0868.jpgIMG_0856.jpgIMG_0857.jpgIMG_0858.jpgIMG_0859.jpgIMG_0860.jpgIMG_0861.jpg these are inside shots . and front ab shots .. the fist is the cut cod ,and drop box.s the ab buttons are e-6000 and hot glued on the back the velcro on the cod still has the plastic tape on it ..im waiting to get some of the thin plastic material that is in the helmet face to stick onto it .. i had the drop box's on the garter but it proved to be problematic i couldn't adjust them right and they slid around getting stuck when i walked this proved to be a great solution . they are velcod to the inside of the ab and snaps at the top are adjustable up and down and snaps at the box itself is adjustable up and down so there is a lot of height possibilities depending on what is needed ,, and the don't slide around or get stuck or flip over. also the side filler plates are permanently mounted to the ab plate and close at the back plate via Velcro .. so i undo one side and basically walk right into the body pull it up close the side and swing the suspenders over me and clip them to the front ... SOLID FIT . to me not to tight not too loose . nice and snug im holding it to me .. and i don't have to adjust or hold onto
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anything .. or check to see if anythings moved or adjusted .. once its on .its on ... and i have Velcro at the bottom of the but plate for rear thigh straps





the side plates are abs sheets i cut to my size ..then double stuck to the ab plate and riveted top and bottom ,and Velcro to the back/butt plate but it pinched me while marching so i added the soft Velcro side seam over the panels on the ab plate solved that ... some nice welts . like get snapped with rubber bands .the tape would flex enough to create a gap between the material enough to get me when it closed back ..





the whole core mid section ..

now for the hmmmm tricky parts.. .worst at the bottom ..:down:


this is the belt for the garter set up web belt slide buckle and snaps to keep everything where it belongs the thigh loops slide onto the belt then i snap them in place .

buckle the belt and the excess snaps in place so i know im fit right also to keep the belt from sliding out of the buckle causing the thighs to drop and keeping me from bending at the knees --that's bad news-- timber !!!!!! :woot:






the thighs on the garter belt slide on and snap in , the rear elastic strap connects at the bottom of the uncut but plate

there are 3 snaps that can be raised or lowered evenly spaced depending on who is wearing it or what im doing while wearing it ..

also the thighs are a bit big so i padded them took a few ways before i figured out what worked best . to minimize rubing and making walking look and feel more easy

the rear strap helps with the back of the thigh support to keep it from sagging and to also aid with them turning in or out with tho connections i can walk/mark much farther easier . with less stress on my body .. as i have issues .. with a little ms ,and nerve damage in my leg and muscles from my back

now the fun parts ...:no:








these are the shins

these are very versatile for me .. as i can do a lot with them depending on what shoes i wear ..i have 3 sets . really two one set is total crap squreish toe--all wrong

so glued up the front velcro up the backs .i have 2 sets of shims for the shins ..say that fast 3 times :D

any way i have a set of parade/marching boots and a pair of dress boots .. and a set of shims for both

the ones pictured in the back of the shins are my parade boot shims wider shim snap at the bottom ..

the other are thinner no snap . they velcro in and there is a small elastic strap at the top .

this is to keep the tops together as you know they separate at the top and work their way down till your open at the back while walking . this gives me a little play while keeping the shins connected to the shims on long marches or troops . something as easy as piece of mind . as i cannot bend down to fix them .and don't want them coming open ... the snap at the bottom hooks to the back of my marching boots .. and the inside front bottom has soft velcro patch's to adhere to the ankles of my boots

thus holding the shins down and not allowing them to twist on both sets of boots ..

parade boots ..

black size 13 caboots .i had the rear seams fixed when i got them from a m.w.g. member who was generous in selling them to me.. and in my size 13



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i blew the top seams . walking a bit farther than i should have in them . at fcbd .. and they will have to go in for repairs ..



these boots only attach at the front nothing in the rear ..note: these are really not to comfy but look great !!!


and the marching boots



a whole different monster ...

NOTE: these do not fit into the shins at all out of the box

these are deer stags -fully loaded ? they are oil resistant and water proof ... and exceptionally comfortable !!! yet they don't look as good and don't have a nice shine even buffed ..like the patent leather ..but they look nice and are presentable and last July i marched at least 8-9 miles in them on two different days . and did 10+ hours at relay for life on the first day also a size 13 but have more room in them ..i got these at gordmans and not cheap either nor are the caboots ..


these are the boot shims for the shin shims again say that fast 3 times

these snap to the back of the boot tabs and then snap into the shin shims . so i can walk .. they allow enough stretch to allow my ankle to move enough to walk without pooping the boot out of the back of the shin and thus getting stuck as i walk ... they allow for movement and keep the boot into the shin while the front velcro keeps the shin from twisting in or out while marching ... i tried velcro front and back -- NO GOOD -- locks your ankle solid no flex= no movement if you step wrong timber or ankle strain or sprain . and forget marching

her is the boot elastic shims in place ..



i had to make boot top straps inside and out at the ankles to make them small enough to fit inside the shins as i said out of the box there way to big around . this way they size down to my ankle size and the velcro on the front of the boot holds them in place .




but wait i forgot the upper parts you say :yes: i did :lol:







so the shoulder bells and the ~~i dont know what the correct part name is i just call it the upper arm ??

same strapping adjustable 2 way height only no 3 way on these relly no need to adjust i just thought shorter arms then me? ok then i went this far right ...

so top snap connects under the top strap of the chest and back armor , then the strap is velcrod to he shoulder bell and snapped ,then runs down and snapps to the upper arm part/piece/ring? assembly .. lol idk <_<its really late

which can be adjusted up or down depending on height or what im doing at the time if im doing parades i raise it if im standing around i lower it so there is less pinching between it and the forearms:( .....which always always pinch the crap out of me :angry:m bruised up for at least 2 weeks every time i dawn the armor -but it is worth it every time :thumbsup:





for arms are glued one side velcro on the other standard ..


i also have three sets of glove depends on weather, troop, and my mood what my hands will be doing i guess ?


also 2 balaclavas same thing one breathes better one ones warmer one looks cool one is warmer ;)




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wo neck seals .same thing ones thinner one looks better - soon to have 3 the next just looks exact for like when i wear my shiny boots :yes:


2 holster one right one left which we all know is right , but sometimes its easier to be wrong - right - confused ??? :teehee:


guns again 3 e-11's 2- not pictured . ones apart ones i have new plans for .. and one dc-15 long shot .. why not right :thumbsup: and my pauldron


and 3 sets of under armor gear ,a full one piece a set of t pice cold gear a set of two pice warm gear and a sleeveless compression shirt and shorts i usually wear under them for padding and warmth when cold ..oh and a spec ops shirt so i can always represent !!!:thumbsup:





i do prefer the champion two piece sets .. but nice thing is depends on how cold it is ill wear it all and troop anyways :whistling:

then the pack up ..i can fit all this and more in my Stanley job box !! seriously

here we go ......drum roll please ...empty




i always put a towel down so keep the abrasion of abs on abs parts to a minimum .. i don't line it with foam -i need all them i have :sweat:





the top bell and upper arm thingy :lol: the arm thingy goes into the shin the top bell is outside the shin the forearm goes into the forearm thingy inside the shin thin all that goes into the thigh . same with the other side parts L+R then those parts go into the body opposite ways one up one down then i wrap a huge beach towel around the whole thing and angle it diagonally on its thermal side down -ab/belt side up as so




then the hand plates i didn't picture -you all know what they look like -yes- go into the helmet oh look there they are


and the helmet goes into a nylon bag (from a home theater projector of sorts ) and then into a pillow case



then i wrap the chest and back in clone wars towel and but the helmet inside that ,then all that goes in front of the body as such in the Stanley



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then both sets of boots go in


then the side arm and holster


then the tote ..and a hundred items


only half i have a bit of everything in this .super glue,black ties,scissors,glue gun,lens cloth ,hack saw,other dress shims,tx m.w.g. cards to hand out,band aids e-6000,spare ab buttons


black cloth duck tape,bag of random replacement back up batteries for helmet ,and a fix kit--rivet gun,black rivets,Velcro,double sided tape,round Velcro,black electrical tape,epoxy , mix cups gray 2 part ,safety pins, razor blades strapping snaps and snap tools im sure there's more

IMG_0933.jpgmy id card ,contacts,aspirin,tx spec ops pin tattoo sunblock :) personal stuff


then my phone,camera,neck seal,balaclava


then heat gear/cold gear under armor


gloves and belt


compression gear and spec ops shirt


then into the Stanley it goes


parts of the dc-15


then the pauldron and the other dc-15 part


then the wipe down kit and lens cleaner /defogger



and that's it ready to troop .. IMG_0949.jpg UNLESS ...


I NEED TO TAKE MY PILOT ALONG ALSO ....... then the soft parts and dl-44 fir in there also and the armor and helmet and boots fir in a duffle i strap to the top and it two costumes in one day .... :thumbsup::yes:

i missed tho open into the helmet from above shot . dur



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i am too pooped to get another costume out . and load it in just to take a pic of a bag strapped to this lid :lol:


use your imagination :woot: im pooped :thanks:


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i literally have spent the entire day trying to do this . and edited out a bunch , and am trying to fix the pics as we speak i started at 8 am its 1:45 am im still going :thumbsup:


2:36 am im done , beat going to bed ... p.s. i quit :pinch: we dont have one for asleap ? it looks close enough ..:lol:


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Wow, Brother ... WOW!


Nice looking Helmet - Love the set-up. The wife and I need to transport our kits a fairly long way next month so we're looking at a new packing job - Thanks for the great pointers!

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well ,when i got it it was in really bad shape , all scratched up glue everywhere . it took a lot of tiny sanding and chipping away at the glue, and i used rubbing compound also . the i used about 2 large bottles of scratch remover on it .. a lot of manual labor . to get half the shine i have . id like to get a small hand polisher ?


and it gets all scratched up where the parts rub. so i try to elevate as much as i can when packing it up ,, also those towls come in handy . to stand on when i dress and have my shoes of .. hot asphalt ,grass ,etc also the sw one i used to pat my self down with at parades .. and i keep an extra just in case ?

i also put them over the tub and set parts on that i cannot bend all the way to the floor to pick up as i dress . keeps them from rolling off the top of the tub ..

it takes me a while to get it all out and then get all the way into it .. i usually start to dress 15 min before everyone else , and i am usually the last one out and packed up ....


but all in all the complete full Stanley weighs about 50 60 lbs not light . but not heavy enough i cant pick it up and Cary it when i need to . ..say through someones home .so in mot rolling over someones nice wood floors or clean carpeting .. or small hallways its hard to steer around i can pick it up from either front or rear instead of the sides where the hand holds are

also with these big tubs you HAVE TO WATCH peoples walls these stanleys will destroy a wall if your not watching closely , i found that out in my own hall . going from downstairs to upstairs ..luckily i hadnt painted yet so quick fix -but a really nice gaouge id hate to leave at someone home !


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I read through as much as I could in one sitting, but let me say this, I think this info will be hugely helpful for new members and existing TX's. It just gives others an idea of a way to do some things. I am grateful for you taking the time to do this :thumbsup:

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  • 11 months later...

i will be starting a nova at the end of the year , couple projects ahead of it ....... but im shooting for end of the year may do at least the helmet before then ?


some things i will do the same.. some things i will try to do differently so it breaks down easier ,,,,,but hopefully the next 3 builds will be as solid a this shadow !!

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We might need to buy more storage space for the site....


lol sorry bro :teehee:


yes its qute a solid suit ...... i am currently doing an icn at fisd ... for my tk designation -- helmet is done !!

may also do skytrooper as well ? then the nova

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