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Hello, just seeing this. I know I'm late, but I have both a completed MonCal helmet and a second hand Anovos helmet. The Anovos one looks glossier and has some extra painted details, but I feel the MonCal is better built and sturdier. As an additional difference, the Anovos comes with mirrored stunt lenses that I couldn't get with my MonCal built helmet. I'm still working on a MonCal Shadow Trooper armor kit for approval. Going to do Shadow Trooper and Battlefront Shadow Trooper, so I'll be using both helmets with differences as required by CRLs of course.

Did we confirm it is the Merr Sonn Power 5? Is it on an IOC CRL presently that you could link? We are going to be adding the Version 3 helmet option soon. @Dropkick will need to model it, I think we may have gotten the pics but we have to check them out again. I know that we have the text for it prepped. There is a Legion web team CRL backend system transition going on at the moment, so updates to CRLs are sort of in stasis at the moment until that is finalized.

oh yeah totally get that but wherever it goes im gonna make it lol

i said bolt it, orderd new stuff and ive already got the webbing sewed on, leather inhand, and im making the pouches tomorrow.

Superb work so far, this is looking great! As far as the paint scheme goes, I personally love that you've extrapolated a bit of a camo scheme for it, and I think that is going to simultaneously be the biggest challenge and the biggest achievement. I would agree with David that an airbrush would give you a lot more control over the process if you have access to one, but it can still be done with sponges if not. The key is to water the paint down nicely like you did with the knees. You want to be essentially glazing the paint on one thin layer at a time to create a smoother gradient between the colours, and just get it looking a bit more subtle. Also, while you definitely still want some of that base tan showing through, I think that some of the parts need more of a green hue to match the reference pictures. The helmet is a good example. Again I'd suggest glazing would be a decent approach. Get your green paint *extremely* watered down and sponge it on almost all over the surface to apply a green glaze/tint. You can repeat the process as many times as necessary until you feel that you're close to where you want that to be. Better to take that approach than to go in heavy handed with the green and risk ruining all the great work already done. The exact same method would also be useful for smoothing out colour gradients. If you've gone on too heavy with the dark brown in any areas for example, dab on some thinned down green over the entire area. You'll find it helps tie the colours in together and create a much smoother effect. Maybe just pick one of the smaller armour pieces and work on that until you're happy with it? Drop back in here for feedback if you need it, and once that one piece is finalised you can try and match the process to the rest to create a nice consistent finish.

it may be something we misinterpreted looking at screenshots. We partly used the shore as a basis since parts are the same.

@DarthBerry I think this looks much better and at the very least is on the right track. I appreciate you taking the critique and looking for a way to improve upon it. Well done! Let me ping some of the DCA team to see if we can some more feedback before you press on. Thanks!

I gave my least favorite part (the knees) a make over based on your recommendation. I watered down the sponging to give it a less splotchy look and I really like how it came it out. Please let me know what you think and I can give the other smaller pieces a go. New: Game: Old:

Die Frage des Konsens stelle ich mir auch gerade. Ich werde meinen Darktrooper jetzt weiter nach der Hot Toys Puppe weiter zusammen bauen. Eventuelle Abweichung können dann später diskutiert werden, und gegebenen falls bei Bedarf geändert werden.

AND as much as we love this, its up to the LMO to see where this costume goes

The digital repair of the chest and back armor has been completed.

The fifth version of the helmet mold has been completed and is ready for production. I hope it can be successful this time 😄

A lot of the same vendors who do regular stormtrooper kits have helmets, if you have the black paint to match the armor. Anovos (second hand, eBay) Denuo Novo (US) Walt's Trooper Factory (US) Authentic Props (AP, Canada) RS Prop Masters (UK) RWA Creations (UK) RT-Mod (Canada) Armor Master (AM, US) MTK now sold by Imperial Surplus (US)

The armor kit does not include a belt, but if you only need a belt, you can leave a note for it and I can give you a belt with a length of 110cm

After 7 rounds of mold making, the vacuum helmet is almost completed.

Hi everyone, Long time listener, first time caller. I'm totally new to this, and am learning as I go. After years of thinking and researching, I've decided to start my build, and want to start with the Death Trooper. I haven't ordered anything yet, but below is the list of pieces that I am planning on. I know there are some pieces that are missing, like the belt, but I guess I'm just figuring I will check things off the list and see what I have left. This is definitely a work in progress. Like I said, I'm totally new to this Armor: 850 Armorworks 3D Printed, MCM Design file https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/death-trooper-armor-star-wars-rogue-one Date Started: May 3, 2024 Date Finished: Helmet: Cyber Craft Jim Tripon (Pre-Owned) Date Ordered: April 14, 2024 Date Received: April 20, 2024 Helmet Electronics: Ukswrath Date Ordered: Date Received: Undersuit: Jim Tripon Date Ordered: April 9, 2024 Date Received: May 16, 2024 Gloves: Endor Finders https://www.endorfinders.com/shop/rogue-one-trooper-gloves Date Ordered: June 20, 2024 Date Received: Boots: Keep Trooping https://keeptrooping.com/product/killer/ Date Ordered: April 12, 2024 Date Received: April 26, 2024 E-11D: Imperial Arms https://www.imperialarms3d.com/product-page/death-trooper-e-11d-blaster-rifle-prop-with-functioning-light-and-stock Date Ordered: Date Received: I'll update with dates as I go. If anyone has had any feedback with these vendors let me know.

Congratulatioins on your DT approval @swman77 I'll be reading through this build thread & others are I'm planning on making the same journey & start a DT build of my own

Congratulations on your approval. I would not worry about the "weathering" of the silver. The CRL says "slightly weathered with black matt paint" the definition of "slightly" is open to interpretation. The Anovos helmet (made from having a screen used helmet) is pretty much the standard as far as paint scheme reference.

I thougth I already started this....who knows I probably didnt mash the SEND IT!! button hard enough. Ok, heres the breakdown: Green- in hand Amber- in progress / ordered Red-figgerin' it out as I go Helmet - Pilot Bay Armor - Pilot Bay Overbelt-Pilot Bay Underbelt-I have old belts laying about Thermal detonator - Pilot Bay Balaclava - Amazon Flight Suit - Jim Tripon Compad - 3d printed Gloves - in progress gloves from amazon that need to be modded with the slit Tactical vest - a big pile of fabric on my table Shoulder ammo pouch - uhhhhhhhhhhhh..............working on it Holster - Darmans props Boots - Crow Props DLT-19-I have filament and im not afraid to use it Thermal detnator-its the CRL model

Ok so a lot has happened since my last post. I decided to order a new helmet that fit me better, and I ordered it from CyberCraft. I first printed and built my own helmet, but my build plate is too small, and consequently the helmet would not fit on my head. Now it is a display piece. But anyway, I ordered it from CyberCraft, and it took twice as long as they said it would. Also, I got a notification that it had been sent, I waited for it to arrive, and what I found in my mailbox was a letter saying that it was still coming. When I asked them about it, they said they sent a letter with the tracking number just so Etsy wouldn't penalize them for being late. It actually arrived almost a month after that. This seemed pretty shady to me. Anyway, I finally got it, and I had to install some wire mesh beneath the vents. Also, I had them custom paint to CRL standards. It would not have compliant otherwise. With my helmet done, I was finally ready for submission. I took photos and submitted: After about a week, I heard back that I needed to do some revisions. I needed to paint the chest buckles to be more silver, then weather them. I also needed to weather the forearm cylinders, and all silver parts on the helmet. Also, I needed to add some foam inside the forearms so they fit better. I also needed to add two black elastic cords to bridge the gap on the inside of the bicep pieces. In case there's anyone else out there like me, since the cords are black and the armor is black, I didn't even see these cords on the CRL. But they are there, and so they need to be there on ours too. After I did these revisions, I submitted again: After this, I was accepted. That just happened this past week. I was advised that I might want to do some more weathering on the silver parts, and maybe add some extra padding inside the helmet to reduce the bobblehead, but I was still accepted. It's been quite a journey. I'm sure there will be a million things I want to fix after my first troop, but we'll see. I've signed up for my first troop on April 5th. Thanks to everyone on here who has helped me in this journey.

Some more updates to make. First up will be the biceps, and thanks to @minimo I can see what the CRL means by the hooks must face outward (away from the body) Next thing to do with them is weather the green one, and add the yellow stripes on the red one. When the GML for my Garrison had a look at the goggles and respirator he noticed some print lines that needed filling. I got to work on the goggles and respirator (photos of that to come later), now I'm at the stage to paint the goggles. The CRL requests the frames be an aged chrome, any recommended paints for that? One of the scarfs I looked at was offered to me at a better price, so I bit the bullet and bought it, just need to see if it was correct or not? For reference my foot is a size UK12 or US13 I've been working on an E-10 to accompany the kit, I think it's a Sean Fields model, I'm not sure I asked someone in my Garrison who makes and sells 3D prints to print it. What I noticed was the muzzle doesn't recess itself into the barrel. Will it matter if it's stuck on the barrel, or does it need to be recessed in? And finally, whilst at a convention I looked at a Shoretroopers back plate and noticed the indent in the backplate isn't a groove like I thought it was. Using a rotary tool I've carved out the excess, and will use fillers to smooth it out again. Not sure how much more progress I'll be able to make since I'm going on an lengthy holiday to Australia for 4 weeks in April.

Sure a lot of us have seen the trailer now and wondered who these lot are. See elements of army , mud , shore trooper , death armguards so questions are.. who are they and where is it gonna go?

This section of the forum is to develop two separate CRLs: "Inferno Squad - Imperial Special Forces" From the Star Wars Shatterpoint tabletop game artwork and 3D sculpts, depicting generic "Inferno Squad" style troopers with red markings. "Imperial Special Forces" From the Star Wars Legion tabletop game artwork and 3D sculpts, depicting troopers similar in appearance to "Inferno Squad", but with black and white markings replacing the red of Inferno troopers.

this line bugs me, its mirrored in both Iden and in Hask. ::snippage:: On the left bicep below the cog emblem, there is a code cylinder pocket with no flap, and vertical stitching dividing it into pen sleeves. No code cylinders are present. There is a piece of nylon strapping leather or leather-like material sewn below the pen sleeve openings and is the same length as the top of the pocket. The bottom front corner of the pocket is cut off at a bevel on the side pointing in view direction, with the broader upside forming the border of the pen sleeves. ::snippage:: What is view direction? Other CRLs match this as well and I honestly dont know what this is supposed to mean. I concur with the proposed changes. If a purchaser needs to remove, or ask a maker not to install a elastic waistband, so be it.

very good questions Paul as we know Sunber builders will need the same. Ill start a new back end search as well.

agree with balaclava text, no changes recommended. regarding the suit, for basic approval a canvas suit such as that made by Wampa should be approvable. That said, the Wampa suit has a elastic waistband in the back that will wrinkle and fold/ scrunch the fabric quite easily . Our local Iden has this suit. While it IS canvas, it is lightweight canvas. When I ordered my heavy canvas suit from Jim Tripon I asked him to leave the elastic off the back. I find that it has no bearing on how the suit wears, and frankly my Tripon suit is so stiff it will almost stand up in the corner on its own. Would it be prudent to state that elastic in the back of the waistband is not allowed for L2 since we know the effect the elastic gives?

This is the agreed upon finalized text for the Del Meeko upgrade. This is NOT the discussion topic, only the final text. All CRL update discussion will take place in the discussion topic. Helmet The Inferno Squad helmet is modelled with reference to the 3D model specific to Battlefront II game. The Rogue One TIE Pilot style helmet is allowed for Basic Approval when requirements outlined below are incorporated. Original Trilogy TIE Pilot style helmets are not permitted. There are no screws visible on the helmet. Lenses are bubble or flat, are red in color, and must be sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. Translucent or mirrored red lenses are acceptable. The front trident area is shorter than a traditional pilot helmet. There is a rectangular indentation on top of the mohawk above the trident. There is one retaining clip greeblie in the left side trident indentation. A Nissan retaining clip is most accurate. The top of the mohawk outside of the raised triangle is painted a dark gun metal color down to the inside edge of the helmet opening. There is a pill box just above the back bottom edge of the mohawk. The pill box is the same black color as the helmet and does not need to be functional. Spaces between the teeth are cut out and backed with a dark gray or silver mesh material. The teeth and vocoder are painted flat black. Oxygen mask connectors are molded into the helmet just in front of the ear caps above the cheek tubes on both sides of the helmet. There are Imperial disc greeblies without notches on each ear cap. There are two painted or decal logos on the forehead of the helmet. The Inferno Squad logo on the right side and an Imperial cog on the left side. Logo and Cog are equivalent in size, and shall be approximately 2.15" to 2.75" (54-69mm) for approval. There is a red painted or red decal area on the ram’s horn on the right side of the helmet. There is a red painted or red decal area on the right cheek tube. There are molded greeblies painted silver inside the hose ports that cover the openings. Helmet may have light weathering/ staining. Silver is not permitted. A balaclava must be worn when helmet is worn. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Helmet is strictly made with reference to the game's 3D model and correctly sized/scaled to the wearer. Hose connectors are made from machined aluminium. The vocoder is it's own separate greeblie with distinct tubes, not bumps molded into the helmet. Imperial Cog and Inferno Squad logo will be approximately 2.15" to 2.25" (54-57mm), scaled to wearer's helmet size. Lenses are backed with round-holed mesh/screen. Lenses are bubble type.

Initially as practise building props I built a R1 style e11 as also seen on screen during " the eye " so may as well add the pics eh. Should mention has since had the "bolt" painted silver Also realised that I have no weathering pics so will get and add them

I'll jump straight in with a few suggestions that stand out to me already. Firstly I'm just tweaking the suit material wording to reflect some of the discussion we had last year. Secondly giving Velcro as an example of how the zipper cover can be added, rather than making it essential. I'm not aware of any references that clearly show Velcro being used in game? There is a reference to "nylon strapping" below the pen sleeve opening as well as a later (more accurate) reference to leather or leather-like material below the pen sleeve opening. I'd guess that maybe this correction was made at some point, but the original "nylon strapping" text was left in by mistake? That aside I just corrected a couple of spelling / grammatical mistakes. Happy to take feedback on the above or on anything I missed, thanks! Proposed changes in gold New text in green Text removals in red strikethrough Balaclava A balaclava is a black head sock/hood that is worn under the helmet and is used primarily to hide any view of the wearer's skin and/or facial hair. A balaclava must be worn when the helmet is worn. Flight suit One-piece flight suit is made out of canvas or similar heavy, textured material. The front zipper is covered by an approximately 2" (50mm) wide piece of leather or leather-like material with vertical lines that attaches with Velcro over the zipper (eg. using Velcro). Approximately 1.5" (38mm) tall mandarin collar with a chevron shaped, left-over-right Velcro closure. An approximately 2.5" (63.5mm) red embroidered or PVC Inferno Squad emblem, on a black background, is present on both shoulders. The shoulders of the suit are slightly padded. A compad pocket that properly fits the compad is placed above the left glove so that the pocket is not hidden, and faces outward on the arm. On the left bicep below the cog emblem, there is a code cylinder pocket with no flap, and vertical stitching dividing it into pen sleeves. No code cylinders are present. There is a piece of nylon strapping leather or leather-like material sewn below the pen sleeve openings and is the same length as the top of the pocket. The bottom front corner of the pocket is cut off at a bevel on the side pointing in view direction, with the broader upside forming the border of the pen sleeves. The right sleeve has a cargo pocket below the cog emblem. The right arm pocket has a chevron flap. Two large chest pockets and two large front pockets with no zippers or flaps are present below the belt There are no leg pockets below the knees. There are two red stripes that run up the right side of the flight suit. The first begins at the bottom of the right leg and continues up to the right armpit. The second begins at the right wrist and stops at the bottom of the arm pocket. The stripe then continues above the arm pocket, behind the patch emblem to the shoulder seam. The red arm stripe stops at the top of the shoulder seam, but continues up and over the shoulder as a black stripe. There are two black stripes that run up the left side of the flight suit. The first begins at the bottom of the left leg and continues up to the left armpit. The second begins at the left wrist and stops at the bottom of the arm pocket. The stripe then continues above the arm pocket, behind the patch emblem to the shoulder seam. The black arm stripe stops at the top of the shoulder seam, but continues up and over the shoulder to the collar. For basic approval this can be accomplished with topstitching. The black portion of this stripe stops at the collar. A piece of leather or leather-like material is sewn below the pen sleeve openings and is the same length as the top of the pocket. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Patches are vinyl on textile with no edge border. If twill is used for the patch material the fabric texture will be vertically oriented. The black stripes on top of the shoulders shall be a material matching texture and weave of the red stripe. A thick textile such as textured canvas is most accurate for the flightsuit's construction as it is a thick materials with a "solid" structure. A "loose", soft or lightweight material is not accurate.

The completed product of the forearm, the missile is made of aluminum alloy material.

Actually, the CRL is quite specific on all the color schemes. Here is the link. https://databank.501st.com/databank/CRL_Gallery:Imp_Death_Trooper

It is WAY too early to tell on this one.

Right on, thanks! I was getting crushed by work for a few weeks but back at the hobby for now. For the details, I think my concern was just whether the intent was to let grey details be acceptable for L1, since it's only required to be correct (black) in the L2 language. No problem either way to me! For the paint, the graphics from the game are really old and not detailed so I felt extrapolating the "splotchy" that's pretty clear on the bigger and more detailed items would be the intent. If the team feels different, please let me know which part you think is the least accurate and I'll give it a repaint to test another style and see what you guys think. Here's the boots, I don't see anything in the Draft CRL that would prevent the soles from L1 approval but open to input! I've still got to make the toes cleaner if the sole is okay.

Sorry for the delay - I had to dig my secondhand Walt's kit out of the WIP bins. The greeblies have been attached on mine (separate pieces, not part of the vacuum-form). The guy that I bought the kit from didn't mention having to source any parts, so I'm guessing that the greeblies were included along with the printed inserts for the back. [img]https://i.imgur.com/nv8YcVr.jpeg[/img]

bumping for an answer for Matt

@DarthBerry Cod looks much better. Regarding the helmet decals, just to be sure you're looking at the correct draft...the finalized text reads this for Level 2: Details are the correct color and placed as shown. I think specifying as black is fine but there isn't any mention of gray...the "placed as shown" would direct to the CRL photos which should have the black regardless to match the reference images. This would leave the boots...I would like to see a side profile of what you're using for the base boot to make sure that's going to work before you get to far into re-doing them please. And then lastly, the DCA team has looked at your build so far and, to be transparent, the camo paint method using a sponge is being discussed. My personal imput...there are parts where the camo looks pretty good...and then other parts where you can tell it was sponged on. When looking at the reference images, I personally feel possibly airbrush would be a better way to match...with some subtle "splotches" (mostly on the chest)...but generally speaking it isn't that "splotchy" imo. I think you are spot on in that this isn't a camo style like the Kashyyk Clone...so you're definitely on the right track. Possibly other DCAs can chime in, but that's my 2 cents fwiw.

The repair of the arm's grinding tool is completed and waiting for production.

This is a composite ribbed fabric with a thickness of 5mm. I added Velcro to it and it perfectly blends with the leg armor.

I am conducting vacuum mold testing for helmets, assembling them simply. I use ABS vacuum to make the outer shell of the helmet and use resin to create details. It looks good, but it still needs some optimization.

Since my approval years ago I see that the CRL changed and update the TU for the helmet. I searched around and found the WTF was able to provide one for me...but it's awful. The quality of the resin case was very bad and the scale seemed off compared to the CRL photos.... So I've modeled my own for 3d printing and I'm giving the files away. If you spot any glaring inaccuracies, I'm willing to try to fix it or share the fusion source. Merry Christmas! nocjef TX66667 IATCommUnit.3mf

OII repair completed, it will be made of resin material.

This is a vacuum test for the thighs and buttocks. I think it looks pretty good.

I'd be okay with that.

Have you checked with Mon Cal?

This will be a thread for discussion of the Imperial Security Troopers as seen in Andor on Ferrix. This will be the main listing and we'll tackle each part piece by piece (green is done, yellow is WIP, and red is not finalized): Helmet - Version 1 Goggles - Version 1 Hat Tunic Chest Armor Back Armor Shoulder Armor Bicep Armor Gloves Belt Trousers Shin Armor Boots Baton Baton Holster (REMOVED TEXT DUE TO NO MODEL PIECE) E-11 Blaster Zap Rod ----------FINALIZED TEXT GOES BELOW THIS LINE------------ Description: Imperial Security Trooper Prefix: TX Detachment: Spec Ops Detachment Context: Star Wars: Andor (TV Series) The Imperial Army stationed its black-clad Security Troopers on Ferrix to maintain order in the streets. During this time, a civil uprising endangered the peace the Empire sought to maintain. Special Notes: The armor parts are painted black (unless otherwise noted), and made from one of these (or similar) types of materials: Fiberglass ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene) PLA, ABS, PETG (3D Printing) Polyurethane Rubber 3D Printed parts are permitted but all print lines and other artifacts must be removed. Blasters are not required for legion membership per our weapons policy. Helmet - Version 1 An open-faced, flared helmet which consists of a dome with rim and helmet skirt. A telemetry unit is attached to the right side of the dome and is aligned with the rim. The telemetry unit consists of a rectangle box with detailing that should match the reference image. The telemetry unit is black. The lower end of the telemetry unit sits out from the helmet to allow the goggle elastic to feed underneath. A raised lip covers the edge of the helmet rim. The lip may be either molded in place, or added as a black trim. Trim shall not exceed 3/8" (10mm). Metal/silver Imperial code disks are positioned on both sides of the helmet skirt. The helmet is to be painted black to match the armor. The helmet has a black chin cup with grey webbing strap. The strap has a snap connecting to a shorter segment mounted to the left side of the helmet. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The trim on the helmet rim is a black trim added to the helmet. The helmet has a 3" (76.5mm) web suspension with foam around the perimeter. Imperial Code Disks do not feature a notch or groove details. The chin cup is similar to a Rawlings athletic chin cup. Goggles - Version 1 Goggles shall have an aged chrome or silver frame with detail painting and weathering to match reference image. Goggles shall have a trim around metallic frame. Trim shall be rubber or foam. The goggle strap mounts directly to the rubber or foam trim. Goggles have a green tinted lens featuring two flat panels on each side. Goggle strap features two sizes of elastic. The thinner elastic strap attaches directly to the goggles and is sewn to the larger strap, which forms the main goggle strap. The goggle strap features a number of buckles: There are metallic buckles on each side of the goggles through which the 1" (25.4mm) elastic is threaded. A large buckle greeblie on the back side through which the 1.5" (40mm) elastic is threaded. This greeblie features a square inset into the buckle matching the helmet color. A black 1.5" (40mm) triglide is permitted on the right side of the buckle at the rear of the helmet. Goggles are worn just above the brim of the helmet. Goggles and strap may be permanently mounted to the helmet, with the telemetry unit mounted directly atop the goggle strap. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Serrated 1" (25mm) silver slide buckles on each side of the goggles through which the 1" (25mm) elastic is threaded. Goggle straps are approximately 1" (25mm) and 1.5" (40mm). 1” (25.4mm) elastic is used to attach serrated buckle to goggles. Goggles and strap are permanently mounted to the helmet. Goggle strap has the Telemetry Unit mounted directly to it on the right side of the helmet. Hat Fabric matches the tunic and pants. Base of the hat is conical with a crown about 4" (101.6mm) tall. Front and rear “flaps” overlap on the sides and are about 4" (101.6mm) high. Front bill extends 3" (76.2mm) down, decorated with (5),(6),(7) or (8) concentric stitches. An Imperial code Disk is positioned in the center of the vertical "flap". OPTIONAL level two certification ( If applicable): Disk does not feature notch or groove details. Tunic A long-sleeved, black jacket that falls just to mid-thigh, with no visible zippers or buttons. Fabric is a plain weave cotton similar to duck canvas. Has a high mandarin style collar with a left-over-right closure that rises from the front of the tunic. The front closure overlaps left over right and rises from the hem at the bottom of the tunic to the top of the collar. Four rectangular pockets are present on the jacket front, covered by large flapped closures. Lower pockets are larger than the ones on the upper chest. Lower pocket seams rest on the same seam as the end of the tunic The rear of the jacket has a horizontal seam present near the upper back. Two vertical seams start below the horizontal upper back seam moving down the bottom of the jacket. Two black tunic hooks to hold the belt in place are permitted. If used, the hooks will pass from the inside of the tunic to the outside through holes on either side of the tunic at the hip. The belt covers the holes. One pocket is present on each arm of the jacket, each covered by large flapped closures. The top of the arm pocket flaps are in line with the top edge of the chest pockets. Cuffs on the sleeves are about mid-distance to the elbow. The material folds back on itself to form the cuff. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The front jacket flap will have rectangular stitch marks with a stitched X inside where Velcro is attached to keep the flap closed. Fabric has the appearance of waxed canvas or oilskin fabric. If left arm rank bars are present, the black fabric should be similar to duvetyn type of fabric and will have 3 equidistant horizontal stitch lines through each rank bar. Chest Armor Chest armor matches visual references being accurate in shape and design. The join between the chest and back armor are created by an angled sweep starting at the bottom of the chest armor and finishing at the bottom of the back armor. This may be held closed with magnets, Velcro or other hidden fastener. There is an indented area around the outer edge of the center flat section. Buckles attach to upper chest plate and match the armor color. Shoulder straps are affixed to the chest plate at the buckle. The shoulder strap is black. It is permitted to be made of cast flexible urethane or other flexible material. To the lower left side of the center flat panel is a recessed area angled inward from bottom to top with a raised rectangle greeblie and a recessed horizontal elongated oval. Left of the recessed area is a raised square that extends from the center to the curved side of the armor. On the top left side of the raised area is a raised oblong detail that protrudes outwards. Chest shall be painted to match helmet and back armor. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Buckles have black recess on upper narrow section and the lower recess shall expose the chest armor. Buckles may have silver paint chipping showing gunmetal underneath the silver. Back Armor Back plate is painted to match the chest armor and helmet. The back plate to box should appear seamless. Back plate has a collar that extends upwards and tapers to the chest plate. The collar stands 1' to 1.5" (25.4mm to 38.1mm) tall Chest and back plate meet at the sides. The front overlaps the back plate. The back plate dips below the back horizontal edge to meet the dip of the front armor plate. There are 2 hose connectors located at the top of the back plate approximately centered above each rectangular cut out/greeblie. The hose connectors are angled forward. There is a 1" (25.4mm) recessed circle on top of and to the wearer's right of the right hose connector. The upper half of the back has two large cut out recesses. Each recess has eight symmetrical rectangular vent details and various greeblies inside. Four raised bars approximately 0.375" (9.5mm) long aligned to the top of the recessed box opening may be present. Each recess has different and specific set of greeblies inside that are painted to match the the rest of the armor. Left side recess has a rectangle shape greeblie with an angled right side end with five panels. The first left panel has a tube on top that runs up the left side and across the top of the recess. On the right side a heat sink is fitted. A heatsink modeled from a MSI DDR Chipset 1.5" x 1.5" (38mm x 38mm) heatsink is most accurate. Right side recess has a long thin strip with 17 teeth, extending from the left edge to approximately 5/16" to 3/8" (10mm to 14mm) from the right edge. This is located directly below the double row of rectangular vents. Below it is a rectangle shape greeblie consisting of two parts. The left part is flat, the center is three rows of 7 oblong depressions and the right part features a hose connector greeblie. The left side has a raised "vent" in which the far left 1/3 is flat, followed by a thin line recess and 7X3 rows of oblong-shaped indents. The right side has a circular type hose connector. There are 5 tapered vents on the lower sides of the backpack. These vents are present on the left and right. Bottom left features a smaller rectangle cut out with the left side stepped. Half circle indent detail beneath the backpack section must be present. There is an oblong greeblie centered below the two large recesses. The greeblie is approximately 1/8" to 3/16" (3.175mm to 4.76mm) tall and 1.25" (30mm) long. There is a small 1/4" (6.35 mm) diameter) raised circular greeblie centered approximately 7/8" (22.2mm) below the oblong greeblie. The bottom of the circular greeblie is in line with the top of the small rectangular cutout on the lower left side of the backpack. There is a raised slot on each shoulder for the straps to fit into. Shoulder straps are black and are affixed to the chest plate at the buckle. Moderate weathering to depict the Rix Road incident is permitted and must match reference images. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There is a recessed hole approximately .31" (7.8mm) above the top left corner of the left recessed box. There are two indented squares approximately 1/4" x 1/4" (6.35mm x 6.35mm) aligned vertically above the right upper corner of the left recessed box. There is a stepped ledge at the bottom of the main back box. Shoulder Armor Each shoulder bell is a mirror image of the other. The detailing of each shoulder bell is asymmetrical. Shallow grooves are present in a pattern matching the photo. Shoulders are painted to match the armor and helmet. Shoulders are mounted to the shoulder strap via a 1" (25.4mm) up to 2" (50.8mm) webbing strap. Bicep Armor For basic approval a one piece bicep is permitted. The bicep may appear "open" or split as seen on screen. Cover strips will appear on the front and back, covering joints if present. Bicep cover strips are raised and beveled with an added strip inset into the top of the bevel. Cover strips may be as deep as 1/2" (12.7mm) and up to 7/8" (23.5mm) in width, beveled on all four sides. Biceps are painted to match the armor and helmet. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Biceps are a two piece design with the halves held together with hidden flexible cord and shall remain flexible. Gloves Black gloves made of smooth leather or leather-like material. Gloves shall have all logos removed. There is no decorative stitching on the gloves. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Gloves shall have a U-shaped adjustment at the wrist. Dents brand gloves or accurate replica of Dents gloves. Belt Belt is construction from a non-textured leather or leather-like material. Approximately 2" (50.8 mm) in width; up to 3" (76.2 mm) is acceptable. There are no loops on the belt. A single large snap or rivet is visible approximately 1" (25.4 mm) to the wearers left from the buckle. The buckle is constructed from a horizontally brushed metal, or metal looking material. The buckle size is approximately 2 5⁄8" (66.7 mm) high and 4 1⁄8" (104.5 mm) wide with 1/2" (12.7 mm) radius rounded corners. Buckle is adorned with a Rogue One type Code Disk without grooves at the center. The belt is worn above the top of the lower pocket flap top edge. The belt features two boxes, one on either side of the buckle. The boxes are Rogue One style boxes, the dimensions are approximately 3" tall x 2" wide, x 1" thick (76.2mm x 50.8mm x 25.4mm). The belt may feature up to four additional boxes for a total of six boxes, placed equidistant around the belt in screen accurate positions. Boxes shall be painted gunmetal or olive grey. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Belt is made of leather. Belt has a groove at top and bottom edge of the belt along its length. Belt boxes are smaller than Rogue One boxes, being 2.5" tall x 1.75" wide x 1" thick (63.5mm x 44.5mm x 25.4mm). Belt boxes feature a pill shaped indentation at the top of the box. Trousers Black pants matching the tunic and hat in color, type and weave. There are no visible pockets. Trousers feature a long reinforcement panel on the front of the leg from mid thigh to below the knee. This panel is double row stitched. It does not extend to the side seams of the trouser leg. Shin Armor The shin plates (greaves) attach directly to the front of the wearer's shin using two flexible rubber straps that thread through the back of the greaves. Each strap affixes on the outer edge of the boot via a cam style buckle. The rubber straps are ribbed and equal in size. Straps extend from each buckle and the inner side of the greaves. A "T" shaped knee plate is affixed to both greaves that may appear to angle slightly away from the knee. The "T" shaped plate features a slightly curved rectangle feature that follows the upper edge. The rectangle is raised. Two triangular prism-shaped ‘knuckles’ are evident beneath the "T" shaped knee plate. The top and bottom facets are longer than the side facets. The greaves feature vertical indents and recessed rectangles that should match the reference image. The bottom of the greaves angle outward to follow the curvature of the boot/foot. Shins are painted to match the armor and should be weathered to match the boots. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The shin buckle shape is different than the shoulder buckles. The rear lever bar is shorter with a more distinct curve. Rubber straps are approximately 1.5"(38.1mm) wide. The shin armor is weathered with a gray shade similar to Pantone 433u. Boots Boot rises to no higher than mid-shin, and is leather or a leather-like material. There are no laces, decorative stitches, embellishments or buckles on the instep. A single adjustment strap at the top outside of the boot may be present. The buckle is no wider than 1" (25.4mm). This need not be functional. Strap adjustment buckle is dingy gunmetal color, or dingy gray. It shall not be shiny/chrome. Zippers on the inside of the boot are acceptable as long as they are concealed. If the zipper is not covered by a vinyl or leather strip, it is painted black. For basic approval the soles may feature a more aggressive tread. German Bundesmarine Navy Sea Boots (or authentic replica) are most canon. Boots may be weathered with a light brown color simulating wear on Ferrix. OPTIONAL Level two certification (If applicable): Boots are made of leather. German Knobelbecher Bundesmarine or Knobelbecher Bundeswehr style, accurate in height and design. Sole is low-profile with no hobnails, a modest heel and modest tread. If seams are present they are at the rear only. Rectangular reinforcement stitching on the upper shaft does not have an "X" stitched into it. Boots must be weathered with a light brown color simulating wear on Ferrix. Baton Metal or metal-like tube. Approximately 12" (30.5cm) in length when collapsed. Rounded caps on each end, metallic grey or silver in color. Has grips on both ends that leave only a small gap in the middle of the baton. Grips may be made of neoprene or foam, and may be ribbed or left plain. One end of the baton may "extend" approximately 10" (25.4 cm). Baton is only present when the holster is present. Baton Holster (REMOVED TEXT DUE TO NO MODEL PIECE) Hoster is mounted to the left side of the wearer's belt. Curved holder which fits around the middle part of the baton. Baton is carried n the holster at a slight angle. Lower part is curved. Baton is retained with a leather or flexible rubber strap. E-11 Blaster Manufactured by BlasTech Industries, the E-11 is standard-issue for many Imperial Troops. Light, compact yet powerful, the E-11 blaster is always in high demand throughout the galaxy. Note, the E-11 holster as seen in the Original Trilogy movies is not authorized accessory for this costume. Based on a real or replica Sterling Airsoft Gun, Sterling Sub-Machine Gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster to depict the Rogue One style E-11 blaster. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Blaster shall be based on a real or replica S&T Sterling L2A1 AEG Airsoft Gun or accurate 3d print file. (Folding Stock does not need to function) D-Ring shall be present on the rear end cap. M38 Telescope. 1943 model is preferred. Power Cylinders shall be mounted on top of the magazine well. R1 style power cylinders are preferred over ANH style. 6 rows of T-Tracks cover the Sterling receiver holes except for the lower left row with the bayonet lug. Counter shall be a real or replica Hengstler 400 Series counter with small Eagle logo. Power Cylinders shall be R1 style, ANH style is not allowed. Scope shall be a real or replica M.H.R. Zap Rod Approximately 36" (91.4cm) in length. The base features a tip on top of a 2" (5.08mm) cylinder with two rings as seen in the reference photo. The tip and cylinder will be metal or have the appearance of being metal. The hand grip is black and extends up to a raised black ring, about 2" (5.08mm) wide going around the circumference of the zap rod. After the raised black ring there are two sets of pill shaped recessed on each side of the zap rod for a total of eight recessed areas. These recessed areas are closer to the raised black ring than the top of the zap rod near the shock prods. There is another raised black ring, about 1/2" (12.7mm) wide going around the circumference of the zap rod. The tip of the zap rod is cylindrical from the base to the tip and is roughly 4" (101.6mm) long and features a ring closest to the base and two prongs that are triangular shaped. The shock prod portion of the zap rod will be metal or have the appearance of being metal. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The base cylinder with two rings is made from metal. The shock prod portion of the zap rod is made from metal.

Good afternoon, everyone! It has recently been brought to our attention that a panel within the comics that contain General Weir actually display him utilizing a DLT-20a. This is an approvable weapon for the Shadow Scout, so this will be a welcomed add to the General Weir costume. Here is the image from the comic as well as a refence to the DLT-20a: The text that will be added to the CRL will be as follows: DLT-20a Blaster Rifle The BlasTech DLT-20A blaster rifle was a long-barreled rifle (sometimes referred to as a "longblaster") with a top-mounted rangefinder and electronic sight. It had automatic and semiautomatic settings and a rate of fire very close to that of the DC-15A blaster rifle and other longblasters. This was one of the few blaster models produced with a magnatomic adhesion grip, keeping the weapon firmly in the wielder's grip and making him or her more difficult to disarm. With additional collimating rings and longer conduits of galven circuitry, these rifles have improved consistency in their shots. Based on a real or replica STG-44 machine gun, with parts from the Browning M1919. Real or prop scope. Flat or semi-gloss black. Blaster is lightly weathered.

Thanks for sharing @swman77 I never thought to start getting involved and serving as a handler while finish up my kit and getting approved. Great opportunity to meet the local group and learn.

Changing the length of your laces is not an issue, just as long as they are hidden from view you're good to go.

Have you measured the diameter of your forehead? That's one of the more important factors I would be concerned with. Though their site says it fits a 25" circumference forehead. If you are under that size, you should be ok. The other option would be to get MCM's 3D Print files and print/assemble the helmet yourself. It's more time intensive, but these are the best files. I have bought them myself because I am in Club Big Head and am actively filling and sanding my helmet at the moment.

Hi Jed. Welcome to Spec Ops. Awesome choice of costume. The build is pretty gruelling but it is so much fun to wear and looks so impressive. make sure to ask lots of questions as you go, we are here to help you on your journey.