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Tomorrow is the big day for me! I am heading to an armor party for a suit up and to get help taking my pictures for approval. Got a checklist of everything I need and inventoried all of my stuff. I should be good to go! My next post should be the pictures I submitted for approval, and hopefully I hear back soon/quickly!

Thanks for the assistance, it has been fixed now

I will also send my Binoc photos, on the outside they look great, I believe the width needs enlarged some.

Greetings! Try to send them an email by here: iocpublicrelations@gmail.com or write a DM to their Facebook page, they will hundred percent reply to you a d solve your problem quickly! Good Luck!

Face fully assembled and looking lovely! Filler primer on the dome is drying now.

Why not just have the light up part optional like the lvl2 of the TIE pilot stating it cannot be opperational. "Red and blue buttons may light up but preference for accuracy is no lighting" or something.

APPROVED! TX-17241! Now to do all of the fun access stuff on all of the forums.

Nathan does an amazing job of weathering his kit. For your helmet this might help. The same technique will work for the forearm cylinders. For your armor this will help as well Ideally, you will want to use acrylic paints. This provides two benefits... it's not permanent and can be washed off if you ever want to look like you just walked out of an Emperial Quartermaster. I also highly recommend that you use flat black or the Tamiya TS40 for the recess details mentioned in the CRL. Pay attention to this because not all recesses are painted. I used the same method on mine, but instead of a brush, I used an airbrush with light gray and a damp rag to wipe down the excess wash. Best of luck and the best advice I can give you this is not like a sand trooper or mudtrooper. When it comes to weathering DTs, less is more. Keep it conservative.

Thank you! That's very reassuring. Hopefully my GML agrees!

another simple solution is a free google account just for club use.I have one, my personal email is already over 100 emails a day with all the trash that comes in, i have club emails for all he important club notifications that come in.

I will send you what I got, the communication head is different from the one needed. Give me a few to find my photos. Also Hondo has a good image in the forums build section.

Looks good! Thanks for making those available, especially since you're not doing one yourself? Just in the process of modifying my coveralls to get the arm pockets, but once I have that done I'll post pictures with my comlink and electrobinoculars when I do mu approval pics.

Okay…so my bucket is…complete. Unfortunately the paint job didn’t turn out quite as good as I had hoped, and as I was finishing the final details and assembly, made a couple blemishes, but my hope is I can fix it in weathering. Anyway here are some shots of the “clean” bucket.

I’m using this for the trim on my bucket. Use the longer side on the inside of the helmet and the shorter side sits perfectly around the edge.

I finished up my mcmdesigns blaster. As usual, mcm files work great Also side note he also made files for the chest rig

I posted this information out on a Facebook group post. Thought it would be good to share here to help with the CRL To give a bit more insight about the ISB Skirt, it is originally made of 4mill leather. The boarder detail is about 1/2” inward and the diagonal detail starts approximately 4-5 inches inward from bottom corner and angles upwards towards the outside and stops exactly at the detail border and at the bottom of the white leather belt. Also most importantly the Skirt is leather and the detail la are V grooves. Not stitching. Theirs also supposed to be a long narrow dart in the center to help taper the skirt to fit around the hips better. This center dart is folded forward therefore making them a Left or Right side. The trapezoid rear box is were the black rubber belt is adjustable and the distance gap between the the skirt and that rear box will change. What does stay the same is the front gap of the skirts is approximately 10 inches.

once i am painting, i will post it up, want to ensure its valid and viable

just an update for everyone, i am knee deep in printing all the pieces, my pants and my shirt have arrived. Its coming together quite nicely, i am almost at painting stage for my kit as well I ended up going the automotive route with the paint, so would it be something people want for me to post up the formula for the white colur i use? that way, no matter where people are in the world, an auto store can mix it up as paint for them. i think most auto stores can mix them into spray cans as well, even thogh i prefer the air brush route

I cant verify anywhere that the red and blue lights were ever actually turned on, i cant see them in the dark lit scenes. Do we have anything that shows them working? id like to include it but like all lights we need to see them working, like on Vader or Fett. Lets call this change log 2.0 Forearms may be present on both arms and consist of flat angled plates with facets joined at an angle at the outermost part of the arm. If the right shoulder and bicep are not present, the forearm is not present. The left forearm may also be missing. Forearms are symmetrical and mirrored left to right. Four allen-head screws are present on the lower longer trapezoid shape area on the forearm. A commpad featuring various depressions and shapes is mounted to the left forearm. One red and one blue acrylic rectangle approximately 3/4" (19 mm) x 1" (25mm) are present on the lower side of the commpad. These are not lighted. The Com-pad has 4 low profile button head screws with centered flat slots. Flexible straps with a tannish or white color, similar to the lower leg straps design, are fixed to the forearm white strapping, and closes with a white side release buckle with square opening on the side. The rest of the strap is white textile webbing. The receiving end of the side release clip is fixed to the longer trapezoid side. A white cylindrical torch approximately 3/4" (19mm) x 4" (100mm) is present on the inner edge of the left forearm. Inside of the forearm should be padded so it does not fit tightly to the arm. Forearms and straps are weathered to match the rest of the armor.

I've had this build happening for 2+ years, and I'm trying to wrap it up. I also have a Shadow Trooper that is 90% done, just need to do the strapping. I'm trying to get these teo done and out of the way so I can get R1TK started and have room in my work shop for when my Vader parts start arriving.

Dear all, It has been a while. Due to personal situations I had to put the build on hold. But now I've picked up where I left. I continued with the fitment of the lower portion of the armor and in the meanwhile collected the correct tools etc. I was wondering if the location of the plating is in the right position. In these pictures the crotch and butt plate pieces are not connected yet to the back/stomach plates. I started the construction of the harness for the thighs. When the harness is finished & the thighs connected I will continue with the belt. I need to learn how to sew for the pouches. Have a nice weekend! And see you in the next update!

I dont feel we need to rework things like weapons and the box. Those are ultimately optional and well described. This may wrap us up! I made some final edits to the boot text to simplify it. Boots Tall black leather or leather-like material. Boots are dull in appearance. Similar design to tall German jack boots or tall motorcycle riding boots are acceptable for basic approval. Boot has a round, plain toe. Harness style or box toe boots are not to be approved. Ankle straps are to be removed. Typical jackboots are not acceptable as they are too short. The boot shaft must rise as close to the bottom of the knees as possible. The boot shall be as tall as required to achieve this appearance. See reference images. Boots have an adjustment strap on the out facing side of the boot. Adjustment strap has a square, silver adjustment buckle. Heels are made of rubber or similar material . Visible tread is permitted. Boots may contain zipper closure but must be concealed. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Boot shaft height should be 15" (38cm) or as required to stop just below the knees. Boots have a flap with adjustment strap with square silver buckle that starts at the middle back of the boot and wraps around to the outfacing sides. See reference images for shape of the adjustment flap and strap.

its been several days since our last post, so lets finish the E11 holster discussion and ill get all the updates posted to the finalized text topic.

Hey guys, bit of an update. Since last update, I have decided to go for the specialist version of the Death Trooper. My vest, pauldron, and ammo covers have been delivered from Jim Tripon, to which his communication and promptness with delivery I give the highest of compliments. I will have to sand down and paint the covers with gloss black which i'll hold off on doing for now. I also have spare belt pouches, though I will likely not need them as Jinta's belt comes with them. I have ordered the MP40 magazine pouches and 3d prints of the Death Trooper grenades. @AChanster has been incredibly helpful regarding information I need to know about jinta's kit. His level of detail on the ins and outs has been a tremendous boon, and has given me key details to tell Jinta before he makes the kit, he truly earns the distinction of Spec Ops. I will reach out to Jinta soon when i'm not so busy and include some details here about it. A question I have is regarding the HK G3 magazines that the specialist uses. I live in California, and it's currently illegal for me to ship the 30 round versions I was looking at here, or even own them. I noticed that the airsoft alternative is almost as cheap, and I could not find a resin cast alternative. Is it approvable to use airsoft magazines for the specialist vest?

I'm tagging @Dropkick because he is in the DL messenger group and can personally hit up the IOC DL.

I did a test print of the comlink - the V2 version was okay, but I adjusted a few things for V3 and reuploaded. It's available for free at the same link as before on Thingiverse. I'll print out the macros tonight, it would've been a 29 hour print with a .2mm nozzle so I've got to swap it to .4mm. I'm not going to do this costume but wanted to make sure the files print well, so if anyone is doing this costume you can shoot me a PM and I can send you the test print for V2 if you cover shipping. It's Bambu silk PLA filament on .2mm nozzle at like .14 layer height with 5% infill.

After much internal debate, I have jumped in! I have ordered the Jinta Studio's DT armor and helmet. I hope to keep everyone updated on the process as I move along. Thanks!

I reached out to Jintalol about two weeks ago, and he said the kit would still take about another month. I expect another update or shipping info around September 15th.

Thanks, Chris! I have someone that did some printing for me to upgrade my Biker Scout, so I'll see if they can do these along with the TD supports, bicep clips, etc.

That silver came out great!

1 can of Duplicolor, but I ended up buying 2 cans of 2K Clearcoat because I messed up and had to redo it, which required sanding it off. I just chalked it up to a learning experience.

You mean it’s not done the same as my Biker Scout’s TD? 🤣 I think I’ll just stick with what’s known to work and use the bracket file from @DoggyDoc

Anything that would mount the TD to the belt would work. Paul's mount might need to be modified so that the mount itself sits flush against the curvature of the DT TD. Just don't use zip-ties wrapped around the TD 😄

Oh, ok. The cord reference makes sense now.

The blue and red rectangles on the com-pad are made of a translucent material. As I mentioned before they were intended to light up but last minute they were not illuminated for the show. But they are still transparent not a solid red or blue. Here is an image of it with the lights on.

Decided to take a gamble on their BOGO combo. I used the contact form on the site to ask about current time frame, and got an actual reply from Trevor within a few minutes saying 8-10 weeks. That seemed to be an “ok” sign. Also, the price was already reduced, and was able to get an additional 20% off for the Labor Day sale. So my total was $452 with free delivery. Even if it’s 12 weeks, I doubt I’ll be anywhere near finished my armor by that time.

Yeah, you should! If I were residing in North America, Imperial Arms would be good. But in the EU, I think I have to find somewhere else if the customs fee is crazy. Also, if you are planning for E-11D level 2 approval, Imperial Arms Blaster doesn't support that. I guess I will have to find the maker of this in the future.

Yeah, it took longer than expected, but I heard some people got them 10 months later, so... I guess I am lucky The pictures I got from the maker looked great, and he even gave me an additional blaster(small EC-17 with scope). Now all I have to do is wait for the courier. Hopefully, it arrives safely in Germany with little customs fees...

New cummerbund came in! I gave it a paint job and compared it to the old (it is must larger). I should be ready for a suitup tomorrow.

Any update on your order? Looking at the same BOGO option myself.

Congratulations Dan!

You're building plenty of black armor these days! I just checked a recent buildthread on Pathfinders and they used the same clips you linked and it looks really good once they bent it. I'm just a RotJ Scout and working on a new SpecOps scout CRL so I'm not an expert on Shadow, but that looks good to me.

Got my E-22 Blaster in for this from Imperial Arms, big delay in the shipping due to a family issue on their end, but love the quality from what i can see: https://flic.kr/p/2rovhF2 https://flic.kr/p/2rovhER https://flic.kr/p/2rowsMW https://flic.kr/p/2rowsN2 And weird how half of them posted as normal links and the other half as the actual pictures

yeah, agreed, lets keep that and rock on. These are only L2 changes. Here's how it will look once edited with bullet points. Is there any more input on the scout det? Thermal Detonator Attached to the back of the belt is a rectangular gloss black Thermal Detonator with a black corrugated hose. The ends of the hose is covered by gloss black end caps. The Thermal Detonator fits between the two back belt pouches. There are two silver detail greeblies on the central box. These details consist of a dome-shaped greeblie on the left side of the box and rectangular greeblie with various designs on the right side of the box. For basic (Level 1) approval a gloss black Shadow Scout style Thermal Detonator with standard greeblies is acceptable, as long as the greeblies are painted silver. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Made with reference to the game's 3D model and scaled to the wearer. The detonator consists of a boxy central structure containing a ribbed hose, and end caps which are "closed" where the tube enters the end cap. The detonator box features a round dome-shaped greeblie approximately 5/8" (16mm) on the left side and a 3/4" x 1.5" (19mm x 33mm) rectangular greeblie featuring various designs as seen in the reference images. The standard shadow scout thermal detonator is not accurate and is not to be used for Level 2 approval.

Hi Fernando Welcome to the spec opf forum. Can you also head over to the Spec Ops recruits section and make a post there, so we make sure you are set up with the correct permissions. The coat is an original desing, and doesnt share much in common at all with a BDU coat. And i have a LOT of BDU coats leftove from my service days. I dont know of a pattern for it, and people have been making them from scratch. I know Sheev's Emporium has posted all their research on their FB page, and JimTripon JImmiroqui and KeepTrooping are offering them for sale. I would be inclined to say its pretty simple but I know its not, because in all our research on it, there are features that are blended from othe military blouses over time. The coat hoooks on the sides to hold the belt, the mandarin collar, the cut of the sleeves, its a custom job. You COULD start with a simple jacket patttttern like farm chore coat or even a long sleeve shirt pattern and work ack from that, keepiing in mind the overlap similar to a BDU coat, the blouses featured a back yoke which is easy to see on the green uniforms. You can take a look at a very early sketch a tailor worked out in a post on this page .

No disrespect Kevin but I feel unless a claim can be substantiated with evidence so we can all discuss it I don't think it's fair to be put on the table. Just sets precedent for anyone to come in and say "oh yeah I know a guy and he said this". Not that I don't believe you but I think there's some sort of middle ground we can meet at to ensure we're getting as close to what's visible on screen. Maybe we can drop the cotton webbing but keep the colour note as it's very clear that it's a different colour than the armour. Maybe a level 2 requirement? Keen to know your thoughts.

Next small steps as the sanding and painting of the other armor parts are ongoing. Worked a bit on the chest/back armor connection brackets from Paul's Shoretrooper. Used the following approach: Pre-drilled a hole on the back armor shoulder for one Chicago screw on each side that goes through the bracket and gets fixated from the inside. In order to eliminate the need to glue to keep it in position, I decided to use velcro, which should keep it in place alongside the Chicago screw. Installed snaps on the front side of the bracket through velcro to create the anchoring point for the chest armor. The velcro is glued with E6000. Covered the underside of the front bracket with self-adhesive velvet fabric to not only hide the aluminum bracket, but also create a softer surface. Next step it to connect the chest armor to test it out in order to determine if further trimming is needed. Photos: Chicago screw attached to back armor shoulder for bracket mounting: Gluing velcro, installing snaps for chest armor attachment: