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Tomorrow is the big day for me! I am heading to an armor party for a suit up and to get help taking my pictures for approval. Got a checklist of everything I need and inventoried all of my stuff. I should be good to go! My next post should be the pictures I submitted for approval, and hopefully I hear back soon/quickly!

I've sent for approval! Cheers and thanks to all that helped out in this WIP thread! @RAIDER @IcyTrooper @Chaos @Blackwatch @Dropkick

I will also send my Binoc photos, on the outside they look great, I believe the width needs enlarged some.

Greetings! Try to send them an email by here: iocpublicrelations@gmail.com or write a DM to their Facebook page, they will hundred percent reply to you a d solve your problem quickly! Good Luck!

Face fully assembled and looking lovely! Filler primer on the dome is drying now.

Why not just have the light up part optional like the lvl2 of the TIE pilot stating it cannot be opperational. "Red and blue buttons may light up but preference for accuracy is no lighting" or something.

APPROVED! TX-17241! Now to do all of the fun access stuff on all of the forums.

Rob, you are in luck! If you have a 3D printer or access to one, you can use these files for all your pouches: 1 Updated Belt pouch covers 150x75x8.stl Belt box and or fillers 150x87x60.st Chestrig LEFT pouch covers 140x75x8.stl Chestrig pouch covers 140x75x8.stl Chestrig RIGHT pouch covers 140x75x8.stl

another simple solution is a free google account just for club use.I have one, my personal email is already over 100 emails a day with all the trash that comes in, i have club emails for all he important club notifications that come in.

Thanks for the assistance, it has been fixed now

I will send you what I got, the communication head is different from the one needed. Give me a few to find my photos. Also Hondo has a good image in the forums build section.

Looks good! Thanks for making those available, especially since you're not doing one yourself? Just in the process of modifying my coveralls to get the arm pockets, but once I have that done I'll post pictures with my comlink and electrobinoculars when I do mu approval pics.

Okay…so my bucket is…complete. Unfortunately the paint job didn’t turn out quite as good as I had hoped, and as I was finishing the final details and assembly, made a couple blemishes, but my hope is I can fix it in weathering. Anyway here are some shots of the “clean” bucket.

I’m using this for the trim on my bucket. Use the longer side on the inside of the helmet and the shorter side sits perfectly around the edge.

I posted this information out on a Facebook group post. Thought it would be good to share here to help with the CRL To give a bit more insight about the ISB Skirt, it is originally made of 4mill leather. The boarder detail is about 1/2” inward and the diagonal detail starts approximately 4-5 inches inward from bottom corner and angles upwards towards the outside and stops exactly at the detail border and at the bottom of the white leather belt. Also most importantly the Skirt is leather and the detail la are V grooves. Not stitching. Theirs also supposed to be a long narrow dart in the center to help taper the skirt to fit around the hips better. This center dart is folded forward therefore making them a Left or Right side. The trapezoid rear box is were the black rubber belt is adjustable and the distance gap between the the skirt and that rear box will change. What does stay the same is the front gap of the skirts is approximately 10 inches.

once i am painting, i will post it up, want to ensure its valid and viable

just an update for everyone, i am knee deep in printing all the pieces, my pants and my shirt have arrived. Its coming together quite nicely, i am almost at painting stage for my kit as well I ended up going the automotive route with the paint, so would it be something people want for me to post up the formula for the white colur i use? that way, no matter where people are in the world, an auto store can mix it up as paint for them. i think most auto stores can mix them into spray cans as well, even thogh i prefer the air brush route

I cant verify anywhere that the red and blue lights were ever actually turned on, i cant see them in the dark lit scenes. Do we have anything that shows them working? id like to include it but like all lights we need to see them working, like on Vader or Fett. Lets call this change log 2.0 Forearms may be present on both arms and consist of flat angled plates with facets joined at an angle at the outermost part of the arm. If the right shoulder and bicep are not present, the forearm is not present. The left forearm may also be missing. Forearms are symmetrical and mirrored left to right. Four allen-head screws are present on the lower longer trapezoid shape area on the forearm. A commpad featuring various depressions and shapes is mounted to the left forearm. One red and one blue acrylic rectangle approximately 3/4" (19 mm) x 1" (25mm) are present on the lower side of the commpad. These are not lighted. The Com-pad has 4 low profile button head screws with centered flat slots. Flexible straps with a tannish or white color, similar to the lower leg straps design, are fixed to the forearm white strapping, and closes with a white side release buckle with square opening on the side. The rest of the strap is white textile webbing. The receiving end of the side release clip is fixed to the longer trapezoid side. A white cylindrical torch approximately 3/4" (19mm) x 4" (100mm) is present on the inner edge of the left forearm. Inside of the forearm should be padded so it does not fit tightly to the arm. Forearms and straps are weathered to match the rest of the armor.

I've had this build happening for 2+ years, and I'm trying to wrap it up. I also have a Shadow Trooper that is 90% done, just need to do the strapping. I'm trying to get these teo done and out of the way so I can get R1TK started and have room in my work shop for when my Vader parts start arriving.

Got around to painting the grooves on the backpack today. @Chaos, how did I do on the weathered silver? I also noted as I was checking the color scheme chart that my pill on the chest was still gloss black so I repainted that with some flat black.

For your audio, are you looking for a pre-built solution, or are you willing to go homemade? If you're willing to go homemade, Adafruit has a sound FX board that can be pre-loaded with phrases and then triggered via 10 different pins. Each pin can support up to 10 different audio files that will play sequentially (first press first sound, second press second sound, etc.). They have a model that has a standard stereo jack output and another that has a small 2W amplifier built in.

Done the easy part of printing all the bits. Just the endless sanding to do.now

My pauldron came in! I just need to get together with some others to do a final suit up and take pictures. I am ready to go! One thing I did notice on my pauldron is that is should be good for basic, but I don't know that it's good enough for Level 2. There seems to be some extra stitch lines on the 4th stitch starting from the leather on both sides, the leather doesn't have the black banding (not sure what to call it) on the outside of the collar (only the inside), and the leather parts are on top of instead of on the bottom. Someone else feel free to correct me though. I may provide comments back to the seller to help them improve their product if people agree with my assessment.

Thank you for the files!!!

Going to call this one done 🙂 AGM base with 90% I'd say made from CNC's Ally - so quite happy with my first attempt at a "hero" weapon

Thank you! That's very reassuring. Hopefully my GML agrees!

its been several days since our last post, so lets finish the E11 holster discussion and ill get all the updates posted to the finalized text topic.

Hey @lonnolan, Can you PM me your email address & IOC forums username? I can ask the IOC DL to look at your questions. Thanks

I'm tagging @Dropkick because he is in the DL messenger group and can personally hit up the IOC DL.

Hello Spec Ops, So last time I posted I went straight into working on trimming the backplate and the front plate which was the easiest thing to do and it was recommended by Walter that the Return Edge should be ranging at around 3mm which isn’t that bad but it’s better than nothing. Now, when it comes to the back plate I had to do some modification to make it match the 3D version of the back plate but with my own taste and if anyone wants to give it a shot. So here is my backplate what it looks like untrimmed and ready to be assembled: The first thing I got to was making my own rectangular greeble(the piece that goes on the lower left of the backplate and let me tell you it was a gigantic pain in the ass since I had to make sure the rectangular area was flat as a board cut so many small plastic pieces that would make the greeble come to life and got some of my fingers stabbed and grazed my lower finger with utility scissors(it was that hectic). Images on the diameter of the greeble if anyone is curious Next was the shoulder wedges since Walter didn’t give me the shoulder wedges or doesn’t make them to begin with, I was able to get his straps. Now I did have a 3D printed version of a shoulder wedge that I will link since I made my version of the shoulder wedge with this 3D part as a template and here is what it look like as a finish product - The left side is my shoulder wedge and the right is the 3D shoulder wedge: The link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4747985 Diameter of my shoulder wedge: Rear: 1mm Top and the sides : 3.4mm This is quick the center details were not that difficult where with that wooden tip I used a 3/16 wooden dowel and used about a 3 mm in length and I used a round gray plastic to make the other piece of the center details where it is between 3-4mm thick and 3.4mm long. Now this was something I had to do was made these studs looking things that are located on the upper part of the boxes where the filters would be located and there not that difficult to put in and there’s images of how thick they should be. Now here is what my back plate looks like so far and its been a tedious process but I’m almost done and soon I will be getting the side connectors from Walter soon either by next week or the week after but once the backplate is done its then on to the chest plate and creating a strapping system for the back and chest plate. However, while I wait for the side connectors I will be working on the shins and they shouldn’t be that difficult and thankfully I have the boots and I will be able to see how it goes more to come whenever I can. Also the respirator tubes are from the Sean Mudtrooper Files, the shins are also Sean Mudtrooper Files and this weekend I will have the shoulder bells and other pieces for the IST. By Next year I will be able to get the soft goods from Jim and get the biceps either from Walter or from Imperial Surplus I'll decide on that when I get closer to acquiring them.

This is the appearance of the flat black rubber seal around the inside edge of an Anovos helmet, it matches the size and appearance of the screen used helmet's rubber seal. Since there is no basic approval requirement for the rubber seal and its only referenced as an L2 requirement your GML will probably approve it without a seal. However, if a rubber seal is on a helmet, your GML may require that it at least looks accurate. Any seal that is approximately 15-20mm across the flat area will work. So make sure that what ever you put around the edge looks like the Anovos seal, especially if you are thinking of an L2 approval. This seal material I know meets the requirement. I get that the CRL doesn't give specific measurements, but this sentence "Text descriptions are only one part of the guideline. GMLs and costumers must consider both text and pictures (CRL and Reference) when reviewing the costume." adds another layer to any L2 determination. https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Channel-Length-Protector-1-5-2mm/dp/B0C2HMP9MK/

I finished up my mcmdesigns blaster. As usual, mcm files work great Also side note he also made files for the chest rig

Yeah, you should! If I were residing in North America, Imperial Arms would be good. But in the EU, I think I have to find somewhere else if the customs fee is crazy. Also, if you are planning for E-11D level 2 approval, Imperial Arms Blaster doesn't support that. I guess I will have to find the maker of this in the future.

@DarthBerry Very nice! This is gonna look great once the fit is situated. Looking back at your helmet pic…I would suggest looking into a different helmet bolt. Here is a pic of a more accurate “concave” look (the one you have is too thick I think and the concave area is more like a hole rather than a subtle slope).

Nice to see, that you haven´t given up on this one 😊 I will try to give you some comments but it is really hard to see the details on your pictures, it would help if you take them in a better light. If you could take pictures of each part in good lighting also, that would help a lot. I have a couple of things that I noticed right away, and that you will need to correct : If possible could you lower your chest plate a bit ? the chest and back armor do not need to touch under the fabric bridge - you can extend it with velcro and then make the bridge fabric a bit longer. This will also make it more comfortable for you. Your shoulder bells sits to high, they need to sit on the edge of your shoulder, the correct position will also help so your flakvest sleeves do not look to long. Your pouches on the cummerbund needs to change sides - easy fix - but they also needs to be higher up so the top of the pouches sits under the edge of your chest armor and moved more towards the ribs in front without covering them. We shouldn´t be able to see the flap that they are hanging from. The closure on the cummerbund in the bask should sit in the middle, that will need to be changed. Your dropboxes needs to be lowered a bit too, the straps are to tight and its hard to see if your clips on the straps are put on the right way. The clips on your gloves will need to be cut of. The bolts on the helmet will need to be painted black. With better pics, I can give you more feedback on the rest, that I can´t see in full. Please also take a look at the model in the CRL for references : Costuming:TX shadow scout - 501st Legion Databank Keep going, you´re almost there 😉

Hi Team! Olive Drab Medic Name Tapes came in: Green that matches the green in the IAT patch, one with Medical Sigil, one with out. Light Blue (Bacta Blue?), one with Medical Sigil, one with out. Dark Blue (USAF Blue), one with Medical Sigil, one with out. Which do you want to see in the test pictures? Let me know and I'll shot a set - I have all the pieces.

So I'm so close to a full suit up, finally. I only have one more piece I need. Where do you get the belt clips for the TD?

Got my E-22 Blaster in for this from Imperial Arms, big delay in the shipping due to a family issue on their end, but love the quality from what i can see: https://flic.kr/p/2rovhF2 https://flic.kr/p/2rovhER https://flic.kr/p/2rowsMW https://flic.kr/p/2rowsN2 And weird how half of them posted as normal links and the other half as the actual pictures

yeah, agreed, lets keep that and rock on. These are only L2 changes. Here's how it will look once edited with bullet points. Is there any more input on the scout det? Thermal Detonator Attached to the back of the belt is a rectangular gloss black Thermal Detonator with a black corrugated hose. The ends of the hose is covered by gloss black end caps. The Thermal Detonator fits between the two back belt pouches. There are two silver detail greeblies on the central box. These details consist of a dome-shaped greeblie on the left side of the box and rectangular greeblie with various designs on the right side of the box. For basic (Level 1) approval a gloss black Shadow Scout style Thermal Detonator with standard greeblies is acceptable, as long as the greeblies are painted silver. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Made with reference to the game's 3D model and scaled to the wearer. The detonator consists of a boxy central structure containing a ribbed hose, and end caps which are "closed" where the tube enters the end cap. The detonator box features a round dome-shaped greeblie approximately 5/8" (16mm) on the left side and a 3/4" x 1.5" (19mm x 33mm) rectangular greeblie featuring various designs as seen in the reference images. The standard shadow scout thermal detonator is not accurate and is not to be used for Level 2 approval.

I've also been working on and off on patterns for the trooper, the pants are simple, a straight legged jean, using double stitching throughout all seams with specifically the back of the pants being laid over the front on the side seams, with a panel about 1/2" away from the in and out seam of the leg and around 11", based on what I've seen, long. I wish you luck on your journey!

helmet as it is presented on the website is approvable

No disrespect Kevin but I feel unless a claim can be substantiated with evidence so we can all discuss it I don't think it's fair to be put on the table. Just sets precedent for anyone to come in and say "oh yeah I know a guy and he said this". Not that I don't believe you but I think there's some sort of middle ground we can meet at to ensure we're getting as close to what's visible on screen. Maybe we can drop the cotton webbing but keep the colour note as it's very clear that it's a different colour than the armour. Maybe a level 2 requirement? Keen to know your thoughts.

Ive had limited internet access and now that Im back in the forum and seeing this , I am in agreement. I see no changes to be made.

Whoa, exactly what I am looking for! Thank you so much! I'll be sure to update the thread with a picture of everything "on" so to speak. Can't wait!

le sigggh....a week later. My life gets absolutely insane. 30 hour work days are all too common. The other day I home 43 minutes before I got called right back out for antoher 12 hours. back to our subject at hand: Movign forward with this, and with no input, I propose this as Change Log 1.2 Shoulder Armor The shoulders are considered effectively symmetrical; they may be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders.Velcro is permitted to keep the shoulder armor in place. Shoulder armor is held up with a strap mounted under the shoulder bridge. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): There is no elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep. Change Log 1.1 Bicep Armor Biceps are a split design, joined in the front. A gap may be present at the back. There is a left and a right side. They are not interchangeable. Bicep cover strips are raised and beveled with an added strip layer on top. Biceps may be held to the shoulder armor with black elastic. Biceps are painted to match the armor.

i think thats the easiest and most practical solution. I know from scaling a bunch of (actually 30 of them) pirate hook STLs for my CO I had to make a bunch of adapter rings and I had to keep playing with the percentage until I got something like 87.7% size to where it would actually FIT the thing

Jim's kit doesn't have a piece under the abdomen. I used a piece of ABS and epoxied it to the bottom edge. This gave me a place to put velcro strips to hold the belt in place.

First full kit up with my new DLT