ukswrath

17. Final Pictures: 17a. 501st submission photos Happy Shadow "T"

8. Ab/Kidney plate 8b. Ab button installation. In this section I'll attach the Ab buttons. I always til last as they're more prone to get scratched. Simple instructions, apply glue, attach plates, let dry.

14. Strapping cont... 14j. Shoulder Cover retainer In this section I'll be creating the retainers used to hold down the shoulder covers. Using Dritz black oval elastic, wrap around the cover and chest to back plate strap. Tie a knot in the ends then rotate the knot under the back plate or connecting strap. Either location is fine. Next up 501st submission photos....

Back tracking a little bit. 12. Hand Guards cont... 12c. Hand Guards Basic approval. In this section I'll be installing the Anovos supplied ABS hand guards with the Anovos supplied elastic and velcro. Using what's supplied by Anovos, install velcro to the underside of the plates. Then install the velcro and strap assemblies. Slide over the gloves Anovos has supplied and your done. Note: there is a left and right so install accordingly.

14. Strapping cont... 14i. Thigh support In this section I'll be illustrating how to create and install a thigh support system using 3" (2" can be used) black elastic (connecting strap), velcro (industrial with self adhesive and sew in), and a 1-1/4" waist belt. In the original armor the elastic was glued to the armor, I'll be using velcro. NOTE: You'll need a sewing machine or some mad hand sewing skills. Reference photo Start by hopping into your under suit, then install a waist belt and thigh armor and position them where they would sit when fully dressed in armor. Next slide some connecting elastic into the thighs roughly 3". Run the remainder up and around the waist belt. Note the length. Give yourself some sewing and wiggle room, maybe 1". My strips ended roughly being 9" Whatever belt width you use give yourself about 1/2" for sewing and slack. Sew the ends Flip the connecting strap over so that the new belt loop is facing the table. Cut yourself a 2-1/2" section of sew-in velcro (hook side) the sew it to the opposite end of the elastic connecting strap. Cut a section of 2-1/2" industrial strength (loop) velcro. Attach it to the loop velcro. Install waist belt and connecting straps. Install thighs and mark the the strap where it and the top of the thigh meet. Remove thighs and connecting straps. Remove elastic protective backing. Install velcro in thigh. Finished Home stretch... next up and final section hand plates (Anovos supplied, non-specialist)

haha thanks Steve

Thanks for the Kudos Ricky

14. Strapping cont... 14h. Bicep to Shoulder Bell and to Forearm strapping In this section I'll be connecting the bicep to the shoulder bell and forearm. For the record screen used armor didn't use a vertical connecting strap from the bicep to the shoulder bell, though looking at some screen shoots it would have been a good idea at the time. None the less I'll be connecting the two to maintain cover strip alignment and armor unity. Something that is screen accurate is the 2" (50mm) elastic bicep to forearm connections. This I'll be installing also. When finished we'll have two completely connected arm sets. If you want the Anovos kit has a couple sections of 2" elastic, just remove the velcro, or not, it's up to you. Reference photos Starting with the bicep to bell connection. NOTE: You can either use elastic or nylon webbing, I tend to use nylon because it prevents the armor from moving around as much. Cut a 6" section and glue half to the bicep. Now cut two 5" sections of 2" (or equivalent) elastic. Apply glue to one end and place it on the forward facing side of the bicep, just inside of the cover strip. Left bicep Let both areas dry. Afterwards perform a test fit of the bicep and shoulder bell. With the shoulder bell fully installed and tight against your arm and the bicep inside the bell the lower bicep return edge should roughly reside just above your inner elbow joint. (forgot to take a photo of this so I'll post one soon). Using painters tape mark the location of the bicep in relation to the bell. Remove armor sections. Apply glue to loose end of the bicep strap or the bell then secure the strap it to the bell. After drying. Final arm connection. Bicep to forearm. This part is a little tricky. Apply glue to opposite end of the 2" elastic coming off the bicep or inside the forearm. Remember the forearm front cover strip is roughly aligned with the bicep cover strip. There should also be roughly 1/2" gap between the bicep and forearm when finished. Place inside forearm. Left forearm drying Right side Finished

3. Shins/Calves cont...final 3e. Rear closure (Velcro) In this brief section I'll be installing velcro for the rear calf closure. In a nutshell, using black industrial strength velcro cut 1/2" wide x the length of the rear cover strip. Install the loop side on the cover strip and the hook side on the calf half. When finished

My pleasure Peter and thanks for the kudos

18. Hard Hat Accessories: 18a. Hard hat insert Skipping ahead some more, thought I'd illustrate how to install a hard hat insert. If you're using foam, well there's no need to read this unless you're just curious. Purchase a 3M $7 hard hat from Home Depot. I bought one that is adjustable but without the knob, why? Because it's cheap, I never have to adjust the strap after it been set and it increases more space and air flow. Install liner as per instructions (Generally the padding facing the brim side). Using a sharpie draw rectangles around the the insert mount areas. Using a dremel, hack saw or other cut out sections then sand edges smooth. Connect the insert and newly cut sections. Test fit lol Install industrial velcro (loop side) on helmet tabs Connect velcro (hook side) the loop side. Place insert in helmet. This takes a little practice and patience but basically the foam padding should reside just above the upper eye lid and centered with the nose. Using a sharpie trace out hook velcro. Remove liner Remove hook velcro from tabs, remove protective backing and install in helmet. Install liner. This system is completely adjustable btw. Done!

12.Hand Guards cont... 12b. Hand Guards Specialist Jumping ahead a bit, in this section I'll illustrate how to assemble the black latex hand guards and gloves which I purchased a set from Justjoseph on the FISD. Install gloves. Line the finger side of the gloves at the knuckle edge (doesn't have to be perfect). Afterwards take a pencil and outline the guard. Left hand. Afterwards remove gloves and stuff with foam, pack, etc. The goal is to fill the glove with a nice smooth surface to glue the guards to. Using painters tape place a strip the back of the hand plate, long enough to go around the hand two or three times. Apply glue to the glove side. I personally use CA glue, works every time and lever lets go. Just preference. Install guard and let dry with the guard side down so that any excess glue drains away from the glove. DONE!

7. Back Pate (modification) 7d. Back plate modification (Hot water bath upper connecting tabs) I wanted to touch base on something really quick. If you're a shorter trooper this may not concern your but if you're a taller guy like me 6', then this may concern you. I seen this effect many taller Anovos armor owners, basically the Back plate upper connecting taps are almost at a 45 degree angle instead of sloping upward. This causes a few issues, #1 being armor fitment. The solution, give the tab and corner section a hot water bath. Let me illustrate. Here's the back plate before giving them a hot water bath. The problem with the shape is it doesn't follow the natural curvature of most individuals backs. Again, if you're taller you'll want this area to shaped differently or it may not fit correctly, dig into your back, eventually crack or all the above. What I did was take the return edge down to about 1/8". Wearing some heat resistant gloves bring a large pot of water to a boil. Place one corner into the water for 30 seconds. Remove and place the corner on a flat surface. Using the palm of your hand gently press on the area keeping a watchful eye on the return edge for any sings of cracking. Let cool for about 1 minute Reheat if necessary. Notice the difference between the left and right side which I just reshaped. Finished This is after shaping which changed the angle by at least 3/4"

14. Strapping cont... 14g. Shoulder Bell to Chest/Back connecting strap In this section I'll illustrate how to install the strapping that secures the shoulder bells to the strap connecting the Chest and Back plates. Screen used armor Starting on the bell side and using 1" elastic supplied by Anovos OR 1" nylon webbing as I'll be using, cut 2x 6" sections. The reason I mention nylon webbing as it does not stretch which helps to keep the bell in place. While I'm in the area I'll also be installing the lower elastic strap the helps keep the bicep in place. Upper strap Glue roughly 3" to the bell as shown. While the upper strap is drying, using the Anovos supplied elastic (refer to your Anovos supplied chart), remove the velcro ends. Apply glue to bell and secure lower strap. This doesn't have to be perfect just make sure it's not too tight. Kind of like this. Let both areas dry for a day or so. Once dry let's install the upper bell strap to the shoulder strap. It's best if you have a 2nd person with you at this stage. By this time your entire ab section should almost be completed. Put on your under suit and install the core armor section. Starting with the left or right side (I went with the left) install the bell. Slide the upper strap under the shoulder strap centering the bell with your shoulder and armor. Using a silver sharpie or similar (you can always black sharpie it out later) mark the shoulder strap. NOTE: The left and right side locations will most likely NOT be in the same spot, that's ok, just make sure your armor and bells are uniform. Left Right Now remove the shoulder straps noting which side is L or R and which direction if forward. It's easy to get mixed up if you don't. Place the bell strap against the shoulder strap. The shoulder bell itself should be touching the shoulder strap, zero gap. Center it and measure in roughly 1-1/2" (note my thumb and the mark) NOTE: Keep in mind when finished the mounting snap will be closest to your neck. Mark location to punch hole. Punch hole between both pieces for material. While the punch is impeded (connected) mark the nylon to remove excess. Hole punched, excess trimmed. Install female snap on bell strap Install male snap on shoulder strap Test fit the straps to confirm proper fit. Install in armor and check fit Finished armor photos coming...

Thanks Jim

14. Strapping cont... 14f. Cod and Posterior connection: Snap and Split rivet mounts and connection strap. In this section I'll illustrate how to install the Posterior snaps, the Cod rivet and connecting elastic strap. Starting with the posterior, measure roughly 25mm from the end of the posterior edge to the first hole. From the first hole to the second hole is roughly 20mm. Drill holes for male snaps Install snaps. Cod: Measure roughly 25mm from the edge. Sorry I can't seem to find a photo. Drill hole and test fit the Anovos supplied rivet. At this point jump into your under suit. Install the core section of your armor. Have someone measure the distance from the Cod hole to the center of the closest posterior rivet we just install above. Since we're going to be using 1" elastic this does not have to be exact by any means. Using the measurements and 1" wide elastic (if you have any from the Anovos supplied, cut and use that) cut section adding 2". the extra 2" will be used to fold over the ends to give the snap and rivet mounting areas some strength. Fold over one end and punch a hole for the Cod rivet. Test fit On the opposite end of the elastic, using the measurements from the posterior snap centers punch holes and add female snaps. Technically there's only supposed to be one snap here but I use two for the "What If" scenario. The Two male snaps on the posterior are for adjustment or back up, maybe both. Back to the Cod. Install the rivet, elastic and flat washer. Split the rivet and flatten. Finished More finished photos coming up...

14. Strapping cont.... 14e. Ab to Kidney connection: In this section I'll illustrate how to install the left Ab to Kidney connection straps and Anovos supplied split rivets. Using this template locate, mark and drill holes for the rivets. 1) ALL the holes are to be 10mm from the edge of the Ab and Kidney sides that butt up against one another. 2) The upper holes are roughly 10mm from the top edges. 3) The lower Ab hole is roughly 10mm from the lower seam that travels across the Ab just under the center plates to the other side. NOTE:This does NOT have to be exact. 4) The lower Kidney rivet is located directly across from the lowest Ab rivet despite the distance between it and the lower return edge. 5) The center rivets on both place are centered between the upper and lower rivets. Measure, mark and drill holes. Test fit rivets Remove rivets and measure the distance from hole to hole from Ab to Kidney just in case measurements have changed. Add 1" to your measurement then cut out three strips of nylon. Measure, mark and punch holes. Starting with the Kidney or Ab, install rivets then connecting strips, and finally flat washers. Place the rivet head on a hard but forgiving surface. You want it strong enough to handle the hammering but not dent the head. Using a chisel split the rivet. Using a hammer flatten the remaining ends, like so. Install the other side Finished. Ready for paint

14.Strapping cont..... 14d. In this section I'll be illustrating how to create strong yet flexible Chest to Back plate connecting straps using 2" black elastic. This will require a sewing machine or hand stitching. If you can't do either I'll mention an alternative. Sewing or not: Start by measuring the distance between the chest and back snaps. Add 1-1/2" to overall length. In my case since I'll be sewing it was 8" If sewing or not fold the in half. If sewing, sew one end. Not sewing skip down to installing snaps. Invert material and sew the ends using a straight stitch. Once the ends are sewn, sew the full length using a cross stitch #3,4 or 5. I typically use #5. The cross stitch will allow the material to stretch length wise yet retain side pull strength needed for the shoulder bells. Using the measurements taken earlier mark and install the female snaps. NOTE: As mentioned earlier since I'm no longer shooting for OTTK complete accuracy I'm using snaps, If I was I would glue the left strap to the chest and back plates and the right strap would be glued to the back plate only with a snap at the chest plate. Just an FYI. I'll come back to the bell to shoulder connection in a later segment.

14. Strapping cont.... 14c. Nylon straps and snaps: Chest to Ab, Back to kidney, Kidney to Posterior In this section I'll be illustrating how to measure create the connecting straps between the above sections. By this time you should already have your mounts glued in place. Using a ruler measure and document the distance between each mounted snap center post. I've found this procedure though it may take a bit longer, the straps all come out tight so the armor stays together and uniform. Measure and document snap center distances. Using 1" nylon webbing measure and cut section 1"+ longer than the measured distance. Install female snaps (as illustrated previously) Install straps The goal is little to no gap between sections.

Well if you have broad shoulders shoulders there's not much you can do except find larger bells. Not sure it's worth it to be honest. Your armor already looks pretty clean. If the DO here's says your good to go then there's no worries mate.

Sorry for jumpin in late here, crazy weekend. There is a left and right bell just like the RS. Daniel, if you're still fighting the upper connection having to much gap you might want to switch out the elastic for Nylon webbing. Also, not sure how you made your chest to back connecting straps (and not sifting through your build to find out) but if you double up on the material and place the snap on the inner 1/3 of the material (offset, closer to your neck) that should be enough to hold back the stress. As for the lower section of the bell, removing a good amount of the lower return edge and when doing so shape it to follow the outline of the bicep is key. Then using strong elastic on the lower section to hold the bicep tight will help keep things aligned. Did I read somewhere you're having an issue with your biceps twisting? Hope this helps.

Thanks Chris I'll keep that in mind. It's just weird that it does it at times.

14. Strapping continued.... 14b Snap mounts continued: Ab, Cod and Posterior In this section we'll be installing the right side Ab male snap (This snap will be functional). We'll also the cod split rivet but we'll be adding a male snap on the interior so that a snap can be used to connect the Cod to the Posterior. And finally we'll be installing two male snaps on the Posterior (These snaps will also be functional). Beginning with the ab, measure, drill hole than install male snap with the post base facing outward. Measure roughly 20mm from the top of the ab return edge and roughly 10mm from the side (where the armor bend begins). Here's a reference photo Finished photo posted NEXT!

If I copy the heading from one section and paste it into a new section when I go to save it it scrambles everything and half the time it deletes the photos or partially. Weird.

14. Strapping 14a. Snap mounts As discussed earlier I had to abandon the desire to install bracket connections due to the limitations of this particular armor, bummer, ok i'm over it let's move on lol. Snaps as well as other materials will be used to connect plates of armor. In this section I'll be making and installing the mounts needed to connect armor sections. NOTE: Other sections will require the use snaps without mounts (lower posterior), split rivets (kidney to ab), or the combination of the two (cod, lower ab). These will be discussed later. Using line 24 DOT snaps and roughly 1" x 2" black nylon webbing I'll create mounts to connect the follow armor sections. Chest to Back, Chest to Ab, Back to Kidney, and Kidney to Posterior (butt). NOTE: I've see other builders use two snaps per connection/mount. I'm a firm believer if you use good quality snaps like DOT, Fasnap or Tandy it will only require one snap per connection. Assembly all the necessary hardware and tools. Similar to what's been demonstrated previously, center, punch hole and install male snap base. Though the following image shows me using the base tool I highly suggest using a hard flat area to use as it will also flatten the base during install. Use the the concrete or an vise, this will make securing the mount to armor easier and more secure. Create roughly 19 mounts. Apply E6000 the the back of the mounts. Avoid applying glue directly to the snap itself but to the nylon only. Some cheaper snaps have been know to have adverse reaction to the glue. Install mounts in the following locations. Using scrap material secure and let dry. To be cont....