Chaos

I had to pull out the lining and install a hardhat liner. Once I did, I was able to have plenty of room for my fans and LED battery packs. Plus it allows for more air flow. I wear a 7 1/4 hat for reference.

We have previously discussed the chest and back armor which has a "shoulder plate" similar to a pauldron. I named it Shoulder bell armor to align with other "shoulder bells." Below it is another section that I have named as "Bicep Armor" The onscreen suit appearance presents itself as an upper piece which overlaps a lower piece. We can name it what ever we want but I was just sticking with previous naming conventions.

Alright! Moving right along ..... another quick and easy one. Revision 0 Shoulder Bell Armor Gloss black in color unless noted below. May be painted in accordance with the Color Scheme Guide. If used, all armor pieces must be painted using the Color Scheme Guide. Shoulder bells may be slightly weathered but must be uniform with the rest of the costume. One on each shoulder and are not interchangeable. Each shoulder bell is a mirror image of the other. Overlaps the bicep armor or may be incorporated with the bicep as one single piece. There is a notch for the bicep armor greeblie in the front lower edge. There is a raised beveled circular detail on the outside of the shoulder bell. (See CRL Photo for reference) Inside the detail is a raised circle ring which has a flat disc painted metallic black or silver. There is a raised cylinder in the middle of the disc painted metallic black or silver. There is a vertical recess approximately 20mm / 0.75 inch wide along the inside edges of the front and rear faces. This band is offset slightly inward from the inside edge.

@bluebantha Carter! Welcome back. I remembered your Shadow Trooper thread and did not realize you were never approved. I look forward to helping you "GML bomb proof" your Death Trooper. As you build it, I recommend that you build to Level 2 standards and get approved at L1 and then turn around and request an L2 look. The Detachment makes that decision. Best of luck and please reach out if you have any questioned.

Which type of cloth should I use to hand buff it out? I have a sponge drill attachment, but last time I tried buffing it out, I burned the clear coat. When I have to polish any paint or clearcoat on any of my armors I use an orbital hand buffer. You have to take it slow and use very little pressure when doing it as to not generate any friction heat. https://www.amazon.com/DECKER-WP900-6-Inch-Random-Polisher/dp/B000077CPT/?th=1 If you want to hand buff with the polishing compound, I have used the sponge that comes with the Turtle Wax cans.

"Is there a way to buff this out, or am I just going to have to sand it down with high grit sand paper again and repaint/clear coat it?" "Tis but a scratch!" 😆 As long as its only in the clear coat or paint you can buff it out with auto rubbing compound, then hit it with a polishing compound. If it's into the primer or material, it will definitely need to be wet sanded and repainted. I assume the placement looks good? I just need to secure the left most box, the leather pouch and attach the hidden 2" plastic clip on the other end to make it a functional belt. Placements look good. Good idea to wait on the rear pouch until you can put it on and position it correctly before affixing it. I can't tell you how many times I have seen DTs with their rear pouch way out of alignment.

Great idea.

They turned our great! Nice job Trooper!

Looking good so far! You are on track with your self assessment of adjustments. A helpful hint: for pieces that are duplicates but have a left or right location, Paint an "L" or "R" on the inside so when you suit up they are in the correct location. (Hand plates) 😉

😄 yes it was!

@IcyTrooper any input?

Extend as in length or circumference? Length is not really as issue as there is no CRL required gap between the thighs and shins. If you are referring to circumference, I believe @DoggyDoc increased his and I did a quick info sheet as well. https://imgur.com/a/shins-eMUq0

Looking good Trooper! Word of advice on Jim's shins. There will be a gap on the top front seam. Depending on how large it is you may have to fill it in. Most of us with Jim's kit have done this. I have found that if Bondo is used, overtime as the Bondo cures, it shrinks and or will separate from the shin material due to the opening/closing flexing of the shin. I used Devcon Plastic Weld to fill in the gap. Its a pain to sand smooth but it does not shrink after it has cured completely and bonds very well to the shin material.

Ok I got the forearm info done, this should keep you busy while I finish up the shins info. Let me know if you have any questions. Slow and meticulous are the words of the day for this. Hot Water Bath Shaping.pdf