Devolver

Looking GOOD! Any progress since your last post?

I agree, you can't do any better than Tom's files if you are wanting to print your own armor.

Just a quick question. I picked up these boots from eBay. They look like the right style, but I’m not sure if they’ll work overall. The CRL is vague and the image for the boots isn’t great. They say “no decorative stitching” which is vague and subjective in itself and there is no picture of the side of the boot. Does the stitching seen here count as “decorative”? I’m afraid it does. Thanks in advance

@Raider, I forgot in my original reply: I’m also 5’10 185 standing flat. In my DT, I’m 6’3”. I personally use lifts inside the boots, 1 inch. With padding in the top of the helmet (this also elongates the appearance of your neck like the screen troopers), internal boot lifts and the boots themselves, you can look pretty tall. On my first DT troop, no one knew who I was... Guys I troop with on a regular basis, mind you, who didn’t see me armor up that day. I’m not lanky like the guys on screen, but the height and the armor definitely sell the look.

The MK4 is his standard DT bucket now and comes in 4 sizes. It’s a GREAT helmet.

This is going to be AWESOME!

That looks great!

Very cool. Thanks for the heads up! It looks to me like it is accurate enough to pass a GML approval and that’s a really low price for integrated electronics.

Congrats man! Looking good!

Congrats man! Like Shane said, this was an epic build thread that will benefit future members for sure.

As obvious as it is, I had never noticed the Clone armor parts on the Dark Trooper.

Best of luck! I can’t wait to see the finished results.

This is looking great! It’s going to be so amazing to it completed.

I see a few problems that will affect approval and a few that are just accuracy issues to be addressed in the future. First the front: The most noticeable issue is that your shoulder bells are on backward. Just switch those around to the other arms and you will be okay. Your shoulder straps definitely need to be fitted lower as well, as in bring them forward toward the neckline. The top of the buckles should ideally be flush with the neck opening. Bring your front cloth pouch closer to your belt buckle. Match it with the spacing you have on your right side pouch and that will be great. Twist your left forearm armor so that the silver impellers are on top of your forearm and the "groove" section is further toward the backside of your arm. As a side note, I would weather all the silver buckles and parts of your armor and helmet (minus the belt buckle) to be much, much darker. They should ideally be a dark gray metallic, preferably with a look as though they were originally black and the black paint has chipped away. That should be an accuracy issue and not a approval issue. I'm not sure what is going on with this plate, exactly. I believe the thermal detonator should be fastened much higher than it currently is. I would say in the space directly below the triangular section. CRL pic: It shouldn't affect approval, but your side buckle should be tilted to match the angle of the edge of your chest plate: Your leather pouch is much too large and should be moved forward toward the front canvas pouch: I can't tell if the thigh section (circled in green) is ribbed or not. If it is not, it will need to be. If it is, no worries. Same issue with this buckle as the other side. No biggie. Your holster, much like your leather pouch on the other side, is much too large. You will need to get a more accurate holster. The strap that goes around the belt should only be about 2 inches wide. Your blaster is holstered incorrectly. It should be like this: The long strap around the scope mount and the small loop around the scope. The way you have yours, I'm afraid you are going to lose your blaster, besides the accuracy issue. Overall, you've done a great job! Death Trooper armor is a very detailed build and can be difficult to complete. As it is, you will not be approved by your GML, but your issues are minor and can be fixed easily. Don't let that dissuade you, though. You should be very proud of getting this far! Take care of these small issues and you're good! I look forward to your approval.

Also following. If I had the funds right now, I'd be all over that KB run. Maybe in the future.

Looking good! I like the blue lenses better, good call.

I'm posting this from a reply I gave recently in another thread concerning the same maker. "Two of my fellow local troopers have had nothing but trouble out of them. One of them ordered an Inferno Kit. It was not delivered within the time window. She had to badger them until they finally shipped it to her. Upon arrival, it was a mess. There were missing parts, the ABS pulls for the chest and back plate are uneven and the helmet looks at best a b-grade resin cast. I mean, it's a BAD pull. This is the type of pull you would see being sold at discount from any other maker. My other fellow trooper ordered his Shoretrooper on Black Friday. LAST YEAR'S Black Friday and he has yet to receive his kit after being assured it would have several completion dates throughout the year and he is now outside of the PayPal refund window. I don't think he'll ever see a kit or his money again. My advice: Stay far away. Get your kit from Plastic Arms Dealer, Jim Tripon or Dan Laws. Actual trustworthy builders with a good rep and a great product.” The builders I listed at the bottom of the initial reply were for Mud Trooper armor. Good Inferno kits are available from Jim Tripon, Radu Plucinsky and ArmoryShop. There are others too, but those are the ones I know of that deliver great products in a timely manner off the top of my head.

It's not over yet! I feel like you will be approved as is. If it REALLY comes to it, you could spray your kit with a high gloss clear coat and then polish it. I used polyurethane clear coat on my Death Trooper kit, wet sanded it with 3000 grit sandpaper and then polished it with auto polish and wax. It looks like a mirror. I don't see why that wouldn't work for your kit if need be.

Another good polish is Novus 1 & 2. I use it on my TK and it actually removes scratches on ABS while also shining it up.

Looking good!

You have to sand and wash the inside of fiberglass armor before you can wear it. Better yet, coat it with Plastidip. You definitely don't want to get fibers under your skin. I wear Plastic Arms Dealer fiberglass armor and I love it. His kit is super sturdy and it looks great. ABS armor is cheaper and lighter, but with how many details there are on a DT kit, ABS pulls are not going to show as much fine detail as fiberglass or 3D print. I would really take a look at how much has to be altered on the 850 Armor kit for accuracy as well. They can look great but require extra work.

Two of my fellow local troopers have had nothing but trouble out of them. One of them ordered an Inferno Kit. It was not delivered within the time window. She had to badger them until they finally shipped it to her. Upon arrival, it was a mess. There were missing parts, the ABS pulls for the chest and back plate are uneven and the helmet looks at best a b-grade resin cast. I mean, it's a BAD pull. This is the type of pull you would see being sold at discount from any other maker. My other fellow trooper ordered his Shoretrooper on Black Friday. LAST YEAR'S Black Friday and he has yet to receive his kit after being assured it would have several completion dates throughout the year and he is now outside of the PayPal refund window. I don't think he'll ever see a kit or his money again. My advice: Stay far away. Get your kit from Plastic Arms Dealer, Jim Tripon or Dan Laws. Actual trustworthy builders with a good rep and a great product.

ArmoryShop, Plastic Arms Dealer and Jim Tripon are the most used vendors for DT armor. ArmoryShop is 3D print, PAD and Tripon are fiberglass. Each have their advantages and disadvantages. There is also 850 Armor that does a DT kit in ABS plastic. These sellers are all found on Facebook. Soft parts are available through ArmoryShop, Jim Tripon and DarkSide Closet. This is a complicated build, so it would take a bit more to fully answer the question, but this should give you a good start at least! The best thing to do is to look through the build threads here on forum.

I would definitely go with what @Chaossaid here. Be sure you can get your blaster approved for canon events first and foremost. But if you do have a blaster you want to have for non-canon events, the easiest way to attach a light is to use a small picatinny rail. I believe you would need a 3 slot rail. The Shurfire M300 is the light used in the new films, but they can be pretty expensive. On the bright side (no pun intended), you can find knockoffs of the M300 on Amazon and eBay for around $30. By removing a small part of the t-track on your E-11 and installing the rail in it's place, you would have a Rogue One-esque E-11 variant. The spot the t-track is trimmed and rail placed: Light installed: