762s

nice that your fixing this armor back to its original state ... i got my silver mirrored lens from a motorcycle shop ... it was a replacement face shield for a helmet glad to see your wip and look forward to seeing your progress nice trooper above too! keep us posted

alright izzi ... can you give some info on these other pics? where they are from, games, cards, comics ect.ect.? i look a the old zeta boards (i posted the link above) and it doesnt seem there are to many more pics than what we have now. plus, my searches are coming up empty or are showing storm commandos and heres some refrences of whats on zeta boards ... seems we have these ... is there more? "Shadow Scouts X-Wing Rouge Leader Vol 1-3 (izzi) Storm Commando [misnamed Shadow Scout] & General Weir 2 Pack (izzi)" as well from the zeta boards crl ... seems weathering was acceptable at one time .. i like this aspect ~ "** COLOR: Helmet must be black: gloss or semi-gloss and may be weathered. No gray highlighting is acceptable unless otherwise noted." ~ "* COLOR: All hard armor may be black gloss or semi-gloss and may be weathered."

hello, as far as the sheen here are some posts from this board: and i believe sating and matte are closer match to each other....either way ... the crl only has gloss or semi gloss and matte/satin are neither of those http://forum.501stsp...ch__1#entry3893 just a boot holster in flat black ... "I switched from the shinny vinyl to a dull black vinyl and it seamed to work better plus the boots looked better to me. I aslo painted my holster flat black to match my boots." http://forum.501stsp...h__1#entry40509 this is from chef Everyone here in the UK uses Satin because it looks meaner. But there are quite a few 'unpainted' ones out there, so naturally they look gloss. Might be worth having a word with your GML to see if there are any others locally, and fall into line with them. If you're the first, I would suggest you go with Satin." ---- "For the finish ike the other said, go with what you like. I went Satin for the armor and Gloss on the greebies" most People use gloss or satin. http://forum.501stsp...h__1#entry69305 As Sall and Reto said already said full black decals but dark grey is also acceptable due to CRL's. Armor and helmet can be either glossy or matte satin finished http://forum.501stsp...page__hl__matte chef again.. I'm a satin man too... http://forum.501stsp...h__1#entry50506 chef yet again Using a satin or matte finish to the armour, accentuated with gloss highlights and detailing, helps create depth in the armour. ---- I also painted the first piece of armor satin black. I sanded off the wrnkle, and glued behind it to make sure it doesnt split. I sanded the entore piece with 60grit, then 100, then 220 then 400. Then i primed it. Hit it with 0000 steel wool, primed again and then shot 2 coats of fusion satin black http://forum.501stsp...h__1#entry40509 I didnt like the "Satin" finish the fusion ends up with. it was more of a semi gloss so I hit it with a matte clear coat which took the luster I went Satin for the armor and Gloss on the greebies. http://forum.501stsp...__fromsearch__1 guess who ? Go for a satin based colour, and use gloss detailing and well, i can keep going with that, there is more .. even furiosa(antje) armor is not semigloss or gloss. and i will add the satin sheen to mix above ... there is a BIG difference from semigloss to satin/matte, satin matte is closer to flat than semigloss, if you want close to be close to semigloss then youll need to go plain satin, not satin matte strapping ... now, as far as the strapping. there are no real/true references to pull from for the shadow scout. so, why not keep them updated with the tb. now for a real concern with the strapping ... let say i have more screen accurate armor ... not like sc wich is just a smooth area 3" wide shadow scout crl states 50mm or 2" black webbing there is no way im getting 2" strapping into my chest/back armor and heres my sc with 1 1/2" strapping ... if i where to go 2" that would only leave a 1/2" of armor left on the top and bottom and weakening the armor in this area significantly so, the strapping with the shadow scout really needs to adjusting. the boot holster ... the boot holster is the same for the biker scout, that action figure shows the 2 straps as well. so, this is where we get some differences between what we see and what we know. we see the figures with strapping on the holster but, we know from the movie(rotj) with the the biker scout it is not the case, it is riveted onto the boot. this brings me back to why the strapping doesnt follow the biker scout ... we know how the biker scout strapping/holster is but, we dont use that knowledge for a the shadow scout. ? action figure references ... well, im not sure how the crl came about if it we cant use action figures !? i read the old board and our current board with research and action figures are being used as references. old board -- research thread -- posting the link doesnt work .. how about this ... http://w11.zetaboard...opic/7272696/1/ new board -- research thread -- http://forum.specops501st.com/index.php?/topic/12-shadow-scout-reference-pics/ now, lets throw a wrench into this whole crl ... thanks izzi for updating the reference photos. if we use the reference photos izzi shows we need to have a change for the following: ~ a square in the center of the rear helmet (pic 1) ~ ribs and piping to the gauntlet area of the gloves (pic 1) ~ remove the vents on the right side of the rear of the helmet and add a barcode that matches the left side, square indent is in the center of the barcodes (pic 1) ~ remove suede from the gloves fingers (pic 2) ~ the boot have a flap that is turned down on the top (pic 2) ~ there is an extra set of thigh strapping (seen on trooper falling in pic 2) ~ horizontal vents in the ears (pic 2) ~ gray detail on the closeup shot of the scout but, the other pictures are just black (pic 2) --- we dont see this detail normally as its just artistic liberties being taken to give the feel of "black" scout ~ shoulder bells/armor have a raised vertical line in them (pic 3) ~ a pair of red and green lights on 2 boxes on the center of the belt (pic 3) ~ no soft part cod piece ... it looks more like a storm trooper or mandalorian hard armor cod piece (see 3) im all for more references on this and more discussion thanks troops for chiming in and i look forward to working on this with all who are involved!

as suggested in this thread http://forum.501stsp...trapping-lvl-2/ i would like to make a proposal for some changes to the shadow scout crl please, feel free to comment, give constructive criticism and add reference photos references will be posted at the end of this proposal. so, lets get started! the crl will be in red and after the crl i will state a proposal for changes 1.) special notes: "The armor parts shall be film-accurate or close approximation in gloss or semi-gloss black and made from one of these types of materials or like materials: Fiberglass, ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene), or HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene)." i read around this forum and alot of shadow scouts have not used these 2 sheens of paint. the more popular sheen of paint used is matte which is closer to a flat than semigloss. and using some references from figurines i think this part of the crl should read: ~ The armor parts can be in gloss, semi-gloss, matte or flat black with contrasting black on the details, ie: greeblies, helmet details/decals 2.) helmet details: For level two certification (if applicable): Film-accurate snout detail and aerator with accurate parts, mounted onto a plate and painted a contrasting Black to the Armour. Film-accurate squared emblem located on the left faceplate, Film-accurate helmet snout/aerator detail, mounted onto a plate and painted a contrasting black to the helmet Film-accurate rear helmet "bar code]For level two certification (if applicable): Chest Armor includes the rectangular contrasting black strip on the lower right breast. with the suggested changes in the color of the armor and details above the chest armor section could be changed as well to read something like this: ~For 501st approval There is a recessed rectangular area present over the right breast that may be painted gray, silver or a contrasting black to the rest of the armor There can be a silver imperial cog on the left chest armor 3.) Flight Suit For 501st approval: The undersuit is a one or two-piece black textile suit, such as military flightsuits, motorcycle racing suits, industrial work clothing (Dickies), or similar suit modified appropriately. Suit does not have any visible labels, logos, zippers or pockets (including built in flight suit pockets). For level two certification (if applicable) All visible zippers and pockets (except for primary zipper) removed. ~For 501st approval The under suit is a one or two piece black, gray or dark grey/blue textile suit ........... ~REMOVE: ~ For level two certification (if applicable) All visible zippers and pockets (except primary zipper) removed this is a repeat of the "for 501st approval(basic)" bullet point 4.) front armor For 501st approval: There is a recessed rectangular area present over the right breast that may be painted flat black or left unfinished. For level two certification (if applicable): Chest Armor includes the rectangular contrasting black strip on the lower right breast. ~For 501st approval There is a recessed rectangular area present over the right breast that may be painted a contrasting black to the armor, gray or silver ~ADD a silver imperial cog can be added to the upper left breast armor ~REMOVE: ~ For level two certification (if applicable) Chest armor includes the rectanglar contrasting black strip on the lower right breast this ends up being a repeat of the "for 501st approval(basic)" bullet point 5.) back armor: For 501st approval: The top of the tank is flat with a detail piece painted matte black. The tank may have a matte black stripe detail. Scouts may have additional matte black "rank indicators" that are present on the right side of the tank and can number anywhere from 0 to 6 stripes. For level two certification (if applicable): Bullet tank on the Back Armor has film-accurate tank topper detail painted entirely black. Proper pin striping and single rivet to hold the bottom of the tank. okay ... we see the use of matte black details, and like what was pointed out above alot of shadow scouts using matte black for their armor so, this is an area that needs a change too to read something like this: ~ For 501st approval The top of tank is a contrasting black to the armor The tank may have a red stripe detail Rank indicators, 0 to 6 stripes, are present on the right side of the tank and are contrasting black to the armor Bullet tank on the back armor has proper pin stripping a single rivet to hold the top of the tank mounted through the center of the tank topper a single rivet to hold the bottom of the tank ~ NO level two certification 6.) cummerbund: For 501st approval: Made out of black heavy cotton fabric and closes in back with velcro. Pouches are made of a matching black fabric and mounted to touch the Chest Armor and slightly overlap the Belt. suggest adding and changing this to read: ~ For 501st approval Made out of black heavy cotton fabric and closes in the back with 2" wide velcro Pouches can made of a matching or contrasting black fabric and mounted to touch the chest armor and may overlap the belt slightly or sit just on top of it ADD: ~ For level two certification: Cod Piece can not be bunched/wrinkled up 7.) belt: For 501st approval: The back of the belt has a rectangular black box with short black corrugated hose. Hanging from the sides of the belt are hip boxes, also made out of hard material. These are connected to the belt by black textile straps. For level two certification (if applicable) Straps used for drop boxes are made with a 40mm (1 1/2") black cotton webbing. Nylon webbing is inaccurate. [*]Thermal Detonator Black belt canister tube has concave end caps secured on each end. ~ suggest adding and changing this to read: ~ For 501st approval the back of the bels has a rectangular black box with either a gray or black corrugated hose hanging from the sides of the belt are hip boxes, also made out of hard material. these are connected to the belt by gray or black textile straps. ~ For level two certification: straps used drop boxes are made with a 40mm(1 1/2") gray or black cotton webbing ~ nylon webbing is inaccurate thermal detonator gray or black belt canister tube has concave end caps secured on each end. 8.) upper arm armor (elbow armor) ~ ADD to this section Greeblies can be painted gray or a contrasting black to the rest of the armor below, the first pic is a references i found and the other 2 are pictures i took of the action figures for what i am proposing above: micro machines titanium series shadow scout w/speeder bike ~ you can see the silver imperial cog, gray snout detail, gray flight suit and flat black armor 3 3/4" action figure ~ you can see the silver imperial cog, gray snout detail, gray strapping for the hip boxes, gray flight suit and flat black armor 6" action figure ~ you can see the silver imperial cog, silver details on helmet, gray snout with silver aerator, dark gray/blue flight suit, silver rectangular detail on right chest, red stripe on top of tank, gray detonator tube, gray upper armor greeblies and matte black armor thanks and look forward to working on this with you all.

thanks peter and steve for the info and helping us/me understand why things are the way they are. and thanks for being patient and understanding with this ... im still new to how things work and how to get things changed but, im learning i think i will pull some sources and get some pictures together and make a new thread then ... like a proposal for shadow scout crl changes. i do like the split crl method you mentioned steve ... and maybe, just something as simple as making 2 different costumes with a designation at the end to note the build type of the costume. for instance Shadow Scout SA and Shadow Scout AA (SA screen accurate and AA Art Accurate) similar to what they have done with the boba fett special edition crl ... "In the creation of the Special Editions, Boba Fett was inserted into additional scenes. This costume did not match any of the previously established configurations, mingling elements from ESB and RotJ. The suit is designated by two variations, the filming version and promo shot version. The differences in the promo shot version will be notated by specific costume pieces below. You must specify which version of the suit you're doing for approval purposes." so, lets see what we can do here with the shadow scout to get some good changes to its crl

thank you! its nice to see someone thinking outside the box with me about this crl with "scouts" they use comics/games/cartoon/figurines to make a crl ... when the original costume is in a movie and museums to get some real references from, ie: strapping. all those comics/games/cartoon/figurines are subject to an artists rendering and the details are just not there, ie shoulder strapping on the figurine is not there! i have heard it couple times around here, not just in this post ... "the shadow scout is more than a black biker scout" and "it has different sources" ... im sorry but, it is just a black/green biker scout. there are plenty of references the are not in the crl ... silver imperial cog on the left chest, grey detailing(seen more than not and its not acceptable for specialist ?), flat black armor, blue grey or dark grey flight suit to name a few things that have been overlooked with this costumes crl and then we are being told some things(black flight suit) are about conformity.....what?! seems more like the crl was done(rushed) in the easiest way to make a crl for a costume(in all black) and alot was disregarded from costume references which could make it more than an all black biker scout! im up for adjusting this crl ... just need the powers that be to be willing to do so and work through it with us.

yeah, thats pretty cool!

can we get some more pics of your bucket?

good to know .. and welcome back!

his armor looks like shadow scout armor to me .. except for all the rivets, the rails and backpack actually, it looks just like my sc shadow scout armor

your right, there are some things different ... with the new information found in pathfinders the shadow scout doesnt get updated with that information. i made a post about the strapping differences but, i guess its not enough to make changes here. and we just worked through and changed the pathfinder lower knee strap a few weeks ago. im not sure what it takes over here to make changes. ... ? and well, im not sure how to even talk about the "paint" sheen over here ... alot of troops are using satin and matte sheens ... when the crl clearly states gloss or semi gloss. again ... ? as far as the elevator bolt .. its mentioned in the basic crl not in the specialist section i guess, from what i gather through reading the forums /// you better off checking with your gml and see what he/she accepts ... i have heard some gml's are pretty tough on costume submissions and other are easy going.

they look fine to me .. use the bigger notch in the sole for the cutouts

thats close but, thats not it ... i have looked and im starting to think it may be in the old forum i was reading a couple weeks ago. ill run across it one day and edit my post when i do

id say no its not hard to do either part ... i just picked up sewing to redo those pieces and having never sewn a thing in my life, it was pretty straight forward and easy.

retrofire got you straight about the flight suit ... ill add hit up chef, he makes some very nice soft parts. and is on your side of the world. ive seen all his work on scout soft parts first hand except for the boots. top notch stuff! and yes, the fabric can be different shades of black but, i would keep the cummerbund and cod piece the same. change fabric on the pouches. and use different fabric on the vest - if you choose to use one -- its an optional part for shadow scout

hello, as for the screen accuracy of the shadow scout .. the shadow scout crl was pulled from the biker scout (cant find chef's post atm where he stated that) i think the specialist crl is pretty straight forward and i cant think of anything that needs special attention as for armor ... pulled in black, check with chef, sc(studio creations), spike(altmann) as they make them in black .. there may be more out there but, those are the ones i can think off the top of my head. good luck!

the knees you have are just the old style ... line placement the new style is like this. http://studiocreatio...13_kit_knee.jpg i dont think you will have an issue getting approval with what you have though! as for the soft parts ... its personal preference ... some like to use different fabric types to offset all the black. like cummerbund and cod use same fabric and then the pouches are different fabric. i see people use heavy cotton .. duck cloth .. canvas .. vinyl ect.

good catch there ... i didnt even see the knees did not have the lines in them! your welcome! and i looked over your pictures again ... youll need the elbow and shoulder bell armor. not sure which 1 have ... there is 3 pieces of armor for each arm. white paste will be fine since your repainting. and yes, fill the gap on the top of the helmet and the vertical line at the back of the helmet. for me .. i would get resin greeblies ... 3d requires abit of sanding/filling/sanding/filling/sanding/painting and with the details in the greeblies i wouldnt want to put that type effort into them. and just a tip .. make a "backer" for the bigger holes(like the switch on the helmet) i would cut a small piece of abs ... sand it ... and glue it on the back side of the hole so, the sanded part is in the hole area .. then fill the hole.

hello, alright so, the forearms and the holsters are good and from what it looks like the previous owner was going for the storm commando on the helmet but, not sure what he was doing on the armor. looks like you have enough spare parts(visor/holster/belt) to cut up and make an abs paste to fill in the holes. just the visor plastic might be enough to make a paste. the main armor shoulder bridge might be okay with the holes and may not need filled if you can get the fabric to wrap around and not show the holes. but, since i would fill everything and paint i would go ahead and fill them too. i would replace/fix: ~ remove switch on helmet ... fix the hole thats left behind ~ visor -- get a new one ~ belt -- get a new one -- its painted white and all them holes ... as well the 3 pieces will take some work to bring it back to specs as the extra mounting material for the last box on each side has been cut away. its still workable but, is it worth it? ~ remove the rubber at bottom of helmet ~ fix the vertical seam at back of helmet ~ fix top seam around helmet where the sections join together so, with all the filling of the holes and repairing the helmet .. i would spray it up with semi gloss per the crl standard ... some like matte and some like gloss .. its up to you though i dont see pics ... but, if you dont have them ... you will need: ~ back tank and tank topper greeblie ~ elbow armor and greeblies it looks like alot of work but you can make it proper again. good luck keep us posted!

nice! thats a different method than what i have seen and it looks good too! and i forgot to add that if your looking for the correct bolts for the helmet visor there is a trusted vendor over on the pathfinder who sells them, just follow his instructions in his first post. heres the link http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=10270 look forward to seeing your finished build.

nice work and looking good! a few thing you need to change or adjust for basic approval: ~ you have to get some new visor bolts for the helmet ~ cummerbund does not go behind the belt .. it sits just on top of it ~ the chest and back armor are not joined with a button/magnet, rather it is a velcro and fabric joining system (ill post pics below) and for specialist (lvl2) you will need to change or adjust: ~ remove the mesh from the ears on the helmet ~ remove the rivets from the holster that are on the outside -- ill post pics below ~ remove the 2 rivets from the belt on the side and make the belt look like one piece all the suggestions i mention above are from our crl ... http://databank.501s...TX_shadow_scout some other suggestions you might consider: ~ the drop boxes should be 1-2 inches below the belt ~ pouches look a little big ... they should be 6 x 5 x 2 = H x W x D this would allow your belt to be raised up(it should not sit on your hips) and show more of the cod piece ... and this will shorten your cummerbund too heres a style of strapping for the armor bridge ... you can use something different but, it needs to be fabric note: the velcro hanging from the side is for the shoulder bell .. some people use a zip tie and zip tie base for this instead of velcro heres the boot holster good luck with building the boots, they are pretty fun to do! look forward to seeing you among the ranks here in the 501st and keep us posted!!! good luck!

maybe, head over and have a look on the pathfinders detachment for all the scout tuts/pdf's/patterns and more ... same stuff just in white

i would like to add/point out that the crl for biker scout on the knee armor is wrong ... for what recruits can see, the crl states in 2 different areas: the main crl ... http://databank.501s...B_Scout_trooper and the lancer spec crl posted here ... http://forum.bikersc...showtopic=12081 from the main crl: The first is 15mm (5/8") wide and passes through the bottom of the knee armor. The second is 20mm (3/4") wide and riveted to the top sides of the knee armor from the posted lancer crl: 11. Knee armor to have two elastic straps , one passing through the knee armor 20mm (5/8") wide on the bottom and one 20mm (3/4") fixed to the top sides of the knee armour with one silver rivet each side. and from what im gathering it is supposed to be: From lancers standards: (an area recruits can not see/dont have access to) http://forum.bikersc...showtopic=15994 "Knee armor to have two elastic straps , one passing through the knee armor 20mm (5/8") wide on the bottom and one 12mm (1/2") fixed to the top sides of the knee armor with one silver rivet each side."[/background] so, with that the op should be: ~ knee armor - shadow uses 25mm / 1" strapping for the bottom - biker uses 15mm / 5/8" strapping for the bottom - shadow uses 12mm / 1/2" strapping for the top - biker uses 20mm / 1/2" strapping for the top so, now the top knee strapping is the same with shadow and biker scout

heya, is the shadow scouts crl referenced from the biker scout? i know the biker scout crl has been updated when new information was found ... and well, shouldnt the shadow scout match the biker scout as the we know the biker scouts crl is screen accurate? i see some things with the strapping that doesnt match ... ~ shoulder armor - shadow uses 35mm / 1 3/8" strapping - biker uses 12mm / 1/2" strapping ~ upper arm armor - shadow uses 35mm / 1 3/8" strapping - biker uses 50mm / 2" strapping ~ forearm - shadow and biker are the same -- 25mm / 1" strapping ~ chest armor/back armor - shadow uses 50mm / 2" strapping - biker uses 40mm / 1 1/2" strapping ~ knee armor -- see post below - shadow uses 25mm / 1" strapping for the bottom - biker uses 15mm / 5/8" strapping for the bottom - shadow uses 12mm / 1/2" strapping for the top - biker uses 20mm / 3/4" strapping for the top ~ boots - shadows basic crl doesnt mention the 25mm / 1" velcro for the boot rear fastening system, it is under the lvl 2 crl - bikers basic crl has this mentioned as being needed for basic like i said above, i would think the shadow scout is referenced from the biker scout and i believe the shadow scouts crl strapping could use an update. either way, im working my shadow scout strapping to match the biker scouts strapping, if this causes an issue with me trying to gain lvl 2 on my shadow scout then so be it, basic will be fine for me then. as in my mind the strapping with the biker scout is the most screen accurate and thats how i will rebuild my shadow scout thanks for your consideration of possibly changing the shadow scouts crl to match the screen accurate biker scout strapping!

alright, i guess this is where im not understanding some things with the crl & gml so...some help/info on this to clear this up for me, please ~ the crl is a minimal guide and the things pointed out in it are needed for approval? correct? ~ but, the gml can allow different things, ie: weathering, even though its not in the crl list? right? ~ a member, once approved, can mod/customize his/her costume outside the crl guideline? - does the gml need to know the mod/customization being made? or can the member just mod/customize however they want? ?