TookBreaker

Cool! Can’t wait to see this in action!

Whohoo! Congratulations and welcome to the ranks. Looking really good.

Looks good to me. Did you test the belt also with the blaster in the holster? I followed this guide and it worked well for me. https://www.jollyrogers1942.com/death-trooper-build-reference.html

I am sure there are other places for belt material, but I got mine from Trooper Bay.

Looks pretty good. Great job so far. The following areas may require some adjustments from my perspective: Abdomen armor seems to be a bit too high. Based on what I saw, the belt should cover the top part of the cod piece. I think you still have some room to slide down the abdomen armor to allow the belt to cover a little of the cod piece square. Once you move it down, I am sure it fixes the back pouch touching the detonator as well. Biceps armor should move up and be under the shoulder armor. The pouch on the back has to move more to the right. May the 4th be with you!

From the first look, here is what I suggest: Shins definitely should move lower. Also, I would highly recommend to try the shins with the rectangular panels on the shoes as they will consume some space too. This will help with getting the shin closures right. Loops on the sleeves end are a great idea and will allow to keep the sleeves straight. Pants, you can add loops, but usually I used my socks to keep it all straight. For the shins, I would suggest to use black velcro to close.

@MKE-Trooper, here is what I used: For Tamiya color, I would definitely recommend to use this, as it just looks best in my opinion. As it relates to the black paint, I used for all black Rust-Oleum 7578838 Professional High Performance Enamel Spray Paint, Flat Black, the gloss came through the use SprayMax 2K High Gloss Finish Clear Coat Spray Paint.

Yes, I got my rubber bands from Paul, who has a set for it: https://www.facebook.com/totalgrunt/

Per CRL, the back overlaps - either the front or a piece that is under both parts: https://databank.501st.com/databank/File:Tx_imperial_death_trooper_chest.png Regarding JB Weld, I recommend a black plastic weld, makes it easier to blend in with the black paint.

I would recommend JB Weld. Definitely will hold it together. E6000 is not strong enough.

You can definitely use the dremel cutting. I did that too. For sanding, you can use any grit that you need. Depends on what excess you try to remove. i would highly recommend to wear gloves and masks. Fiber is too dangerous.

@MKE-Trooper - The shins should not go over the whole knee, otherwise you cannot walk. Mid-way knee cap should be fine. As it relates to closing the shins and having them over the boots, I had to remove excess suit (it has to fit snug) and I removed even the foam padding of the shoe tongue. Otherwise, mine would not close either.

I think we all can understand your excitement. I am sure I speak for all of us as we also smiled and still smile. It is a great costume, it has its journey, but once you are done, you will be super proud. Looking good!

I have the same issue with the helmet pressing on the nose. I installed padding and am trying Nasal Pads for CPAP Mask as additional padding, but once you start sweating, they come off. I was against bumping up the helmet ratio to keep body armor and helmet symmetrical. If you find a better solution, let us know.

I used elastic straps for those to ensure some mobility.

As it relates to the wrist straps, you can use vacuum replacement belts. I used it for mine and works perfect. Here is the one I used: https://a.co/d/6EjzSBW.

For the straps and rubber parts, you have to use flexible 3D material such as TPE (thermoplastic elastomer) material, however, they are distributed under various names, such as TPU, TPEE, etc. As it relates for the other parts, I am sure there are some build posts based on Tom's build. I would suggest similar to @Mal86, message MCM Design. Ideally via facebook.

Which files did you buy from him? I have the DT files and usually the ZIP file comes with instructions.

Hi, I thought I summarize by overall build experience to share with this community and you all were extremely helpful. Therefore, a big THANK YOU! I cannot be happier with the result of my Death Trooper and will look into the Specialist levels once time permits. For the Empire! TX 23011 Couple of lessons learned throughout the my build process Read the forums, not once, several times, there is a ton of great tips to learn from others to make the best build for yourself. No build is similar! You will always tweak something after each troop! 🙂 Most importantly, putting all the work into this costume, carry it with pride and have fun. People seeing you love it, These are the builds I followed throughout my Death Trooper build journey and where I learned the most: Best build to follow was from @DoggyDoc and he was extremely helpful during my build: Take your time, test it out several times before you finalize anything. Especially anything you have to glue, try out with E6000. It is easier to remove if something is not right. Otherwise, I used stronger glues for long lasting bond. Build work summary: Armor Jim Tripon DIY Armor Kit Large: https://www.facebook.com/jim.tripon Mostly had to trim the following: Thighs, shins, forearms to shorten their length AND shoulder connection of chest/back plate to fit chest circumference All armor parts required Bondo putty application as the regular Filler and Primer was not sufficient to fill in all fine lines. Once Bondo applied, I wet-sanded everything with 3M 300 grit angle grinder and then followed by 600 grit sandpaper to ensure a smooth surface to be primed before paint. Small tip: use one or two drops of dish soap with the water for sanding. Paint Project was done by my friends and squad members at J&J Props: https://www.facebook.com/jandjprops Undersuit / Neck Seal / Gasket Jim Tripon: tailored to remove excess and have a smug fit (otherwise armor pieces will be difficult to put on such as forearms). Alternatives you can consider: https://www.facebook.com/TheDarkSideCloset/photos OR https://www.facebook.com/sheevsemporium Helmet Started with Jim Tripon DIY Helmet Kit, however the helmet had a strange deformed structure (others in the forums stated the same), therefore changed to Print Files from MCM Design: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/death-trooper-helmet-star-wars-rogue-one Bulbed Lens from OPLE Props: https://www.opleprops.com/de/linsen-visor-linse-star-wars-cosplay-4/325-OPLE-Props-Deathtrooper-Rogue-one-gewoelbte-Linse-Anovos-Trooper-Helmlinse-Kostuem-Costume-Helmet-Rogueone-Linse-Visor-Visier-Kr.html Used UksWrathsSpecialty DT Hovi Lighting for the NSM EL Button - 3cm diameter circle in Grass Green: https://elwirecraft.co.uk/product/el-button-3cm-diameter/ Henry's Helmet Fans "Dual Modular Ball Bearing 4500rpm Fan Kit with 2 switches for mounting in a helmet" Alex Tech 25ft – 1/2 inch Split Wire Loom Tubing Wire Conduit – Black NSM has a 2 Position 3P SPDT Micro Miniature PCB Slide Switch Latching Toggle Switch, 12V 23A Battery Holder, Battery Case with Leads Wires, Black Tintvent Rubber Edge Trim Black, U Channel Rubber Seal Strip with Self-Adhesive Tape, Metal Edge Protector Fit for 0.15", 10Ft (118in) PAXLamb Memory Foam Pad Protective Mat Helmet Padding Kit Belt Belt Kit from Trooperbay: https://trooperbay.com/product/rogue-one-death-trooper-belt-webbing-and-buckle-cosplay-costuming-sci-fi/ Death Trooper Buckle Replica from BlasterFactory: https://blasterfactory.com/product/death-trooper-buckle-replica/ Death Trooper Pouch from DarmanProps (https://www.etsy.com/listing/970090206/death-trooper-pouch) Deathtrooper Black Canvas Ammo 3 Pouch Set - Purchased used ones through Deathtrooper Facebook Group (https://www.facebook.com/groups/DeathTroopersBG) Black Boxes 3D printed myself Followed this build to get mine done: https://www.jollyrogers1942.com/death-trooper-build-reference.html Accessories SE-14R Holster from DarmansProps Gloves from Endor Finders: https://www.endorfinders.com/shop/rogue-one-trooper-gloves - Removed inner lining as it is too hot for Florida troops Boots from CrowProps: https://crowprops.bigcartel.com/product/deathtrooper-boots - Removed all foam tongue padding as it was too thick with all the padding of collar and the DT shoe panel cover Metal shoulder bell supports, shoulder straps and buckles from Mr. Pauls Shoretrooper Build: https://www.facebook.com/totalgrunt Death Trooper Arm Impellers from Phoenix Props: https://www.phoenixprops.net/products/death-trooper-arm-impellers-rockets Specialist parts Chest Rig from Jim Tripon - The two short webbing straps are missing in my case, which I have to add - Work in Progress I have to modify the upper chest D-Rings as I am doubtful it will carry the weight of the chest rig. I may replace it with these as they are made out of metal: https://blasterfactory.com/product/death-trooper-chest-buckle-pre-cut-complete-set/ - Work in Progress Magazines / Grenades 3D printed myself Ammo Pouch: Purchased a used Sandtrooper one, dyed the stitching black Pauldron from Jim Tripon Audio Zoweetek Voice Amplifier: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KJ3TD6W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Wired microphone SD-Card with Deathtrooper Chatter in loop mode Materials Paints Tamiya TS-40 (https://a.co/d/f1d4tYr) Rust-Oleum 7578838 Professional High Performance Enamel Spray Paint, 15 Oz, Flat Black SprayMax 2K High Gloss Finish Clear Coat Spray Paint | Car Parts and Repair Refinishing Clear Coat for Permanent Sealing of Coated Surfaces PlastiDip Rust-Oleum 260510 Automotive 2-in-1 Filler & Sandable Primer Glue E6000 for many parts but also testing Professional Grade Cyanoacrylate (CA) Super Glue by GLUE MASTERS. This one is much stronger than E6000 if you need stronger bonds. Just be careful as it dries white and may be visible depending on where you use it (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019PFO4KM) J-B Weld 50139 Plastic Bonder Body Panel Adhesive and Gap Filler Syringe - Black - I used this to glue armor parts together such as the shins and forearms. Super strong bond. Rubber Glue 20g - Needed for the rubber straps around the left forearm as it is specifically designed for rubber (https://a.co/d/fAylkXb) Other Flex Seal Liquid, 16 oz, Black, Liquid Rubber to smoothen armor interior surfaces that overlap with other parts. This way you avoid scratches but also unnecessary plastic noises while trooping (https://a.co/d/3lbrldX). Rub n Buff Wax Metallic Finish - Silver Leaf for weathering (https://a.co/d/bxgYsRe). Velcro Black, Nylon Straps Black Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty Maintaining the entire costume Armor pieces Clean with quality micro fiber towels Polish with Meguiar's ULTIMATE POLISH to remove minor scratches, but also add a protection layer to it. Nice effect is glossy shine, but also a smooth finish that does not hold dust. It will not protect from all scratches, but minor ones can be removed. The rest is natural weathering. Undersuit You will sweat! It is one of the costumes that will not breath, especially with all armor pieces. I decided to cold wash it after each troop by turning the undersuit inside out, putting it into pillow cases and tie it up. This way I can put it into the washer. Use programs such as "Delicate" and cold water only with little spin. Rack dry it and all is good. No issues so far.

Good discussion! Some scratches are unavoidable and it is ok for natural weathering. Since the armor is so robust, I have already a few scratches just from bumping somewhere, hitting with the blaster parts of the armor, or even the blaster holster on the right thigh. Ceramic may be a better option to protect from UV and fingerprints. I may give it a try with a few armor pieces less visible. Thank you all! We had our Squad's 20 Years Anniversary photo shoot in the Everglades and cannot look at this one enough. 🙂

Got it. As the inside of the armor is not smooth and covered with fiber, I do not think it will come off easily. My experience is with flat surfaces sprayed with PlastiDip, you can just peel it off. With this one, if you have only one layer, I assume you could just sand it and it will adhere well enough. Also, I used E6000 for many areas, but if you need really good adhesion, I would use stronger glue than E6000.

Hi, general question on maintaining and protecting the paint of a Death Trooper armor. I have the Jim Trippon kit and decided to start of shiny and clean gloss black to allow it to age and weather itself naturally. Nevertheless, what are all of you use to keep it clean, shiny, and protected? Since I used automative paint and clear coat, I use Meguiar's ULTIMATE POLISH. It not only removes minor scratches, but also gives a great shine and a smooth surface. My question is, did anyone try out Ceramic Coating for a better and longer protection? Thanks

Hi @Mal86, Sanding the inside of the armor will be cumbersome and I would be concerned to rip out more fiber strings that necessary. Also, as you stated, getting all strapping and connections done is key to ensure proper adhesion first. I had to rearrange a few times couple of straps. PlastiDip is the way to go to cover most of it. Then troop a few times as I am sure you will make some more adjustments. Then you could PlastiDip again. I would not recommend further lining if not really needed for two reasons: Heat: If you are trooping in warmer climate, it is already hot with the undersuit and the armor on. Any additional layer will make it warmer. Weight: The armor in itself and paint will make it heavy enough. Being a TK as well, it is a significant weight you add on and you want to keep it as light as possible. Hope this helps.

Dear DT experts, before hitting the weekend, I just received the good news of being approved. It went through without any flaws (and I covered the vents with a black felt from the inside to avoid any see through). Thank you big time and I am extremely pleased and honored to join the ranks of Death Troopers. I will update this post with an appropriate list of items I used so it is viewable in one post. For the Empire!

Thank you all! I just used a felt liner to back those areas now it is not see through! Good catch and much appreciated.