PiotrRasputin

Your link works and the photos are definitely helpful! The immediate things that stick out to me are: -the top grey faceplate is crooked and would have to have the space on the side of the nose grill more evenly distributed - the front grille greeblie should slide in to its slot and lay flat. The nose grille is also look crooked. -the 2 tusk covers would need to be trimmed and fit in from behind the tusks (though you may just opt to use dark green safety face shield and trim it to fit inside them). Hopefully these are easy fixes for you!

Create and upload images to imgur.com. Then copy the "Direct Link" address when you click on a photo, and paste it when you make a post.

Here's the photos of my old 850 Helmet. Pardon the dust, just cleaned it as best I could. https://imgur.com/a/AXWblnN I had to take the visor out as it was cutting into my face. Also removed the foam for the helmet he glued in, and wiring for the lights (which don't work). Also, there is a crack on the top of the helmet that needs to be repaired. If this is fixable @Chaos, let us know if it's worth the effort.

I actually have a 850 cast helmet that needs some work, but should be approvable at the basic level. It was too small for my head, so I had to 3D print mine scaled up. When I get home, I'll take pictures of it to show you the details.

What maker is this helmet from?

850 Armorworks, Jim Tripon on Facebook offer full kits. You can also download plans for the armor from MCM Designs to 3D print them yourself.

Hi there and best of luck in your build! Let me know when you get your E-11D blaster in as I'm curious to hear your experience with Imperial Blasters. I'm looking to get a replacement for my broken one.

Hi Everyone, So a few months ago at a troop, I had a mishap with my 3D printed E-11D blaster. It unfortunately didn't survive as it was broken in too many places to make any repair attempts. I was looking over the vetted vendors list (which probably could use a refresh), and noticed that even though we have 850 listed for armor, they aren't under the blasters sections. They sell the E-11D and DLT-19D blasters as 3D resin prints here: https://850armorworks.com/Death-Troopers-c36176020?srsltid=AfmBOor-Ib-LFko0mt7KvYteO5eyglsICeFVExVd8E55BjyVcQhP0F6G I was curious if any approved Death Troopers have bought one from them and your thoughts on them.

Yes, there's no specifics mentioned in the CRL regarding the sling. I showed it to my GML prior to purchase, he reviewed the CRL to be sure and was fine with it.

This is the one I bought: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D54RX8DK?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title Very comfortable and adjustable.

Sorry for bringing this topic back from the dead, but I wanted to see @Bayushi how the blasters came along and if you got them approved for your DT. My E-11D had an accident and broke in several places and I'm looking into vendors that make them.

1. The CRL states for basic approval, the recessed pill shape can be matte or metallic black. 2. Do you know what material it is printed out of? I used a medium viscosity CA glue for my 3d printed helmet and it bonds pretty quickly, even faster if you buy a kicker spray for it. Only thing is, if you use that, it will not be removable like E6000. 3. Are the metal ones from PhoenixProps? If so, I have the same kind just painted them according to the CRL. Without knowing how they were glued on, there is real risk of damage. E6000 is usually forgiving when it comes to removing parts. CA glue...not so much.

Congrats! Can't wait to see pictures!

Well, I just got word that I am APPROVED! I am making the small adjustments that @Chaossuggested regarding the posterior armor, belt and abdomen this weekend. I've already added the 2nd straps in the back of the thighs and they fit MUCH better now. Wow, what a journey it's been! Thank you all for the help over the past year! Now to request full SpecOps access!

Hey all, So as I'm closing in on getting approval, I'm looking into a sound glove for my Death Trooper. I was wondering what you used to make the Death Trooper chatter? I was looking into getting a forearm mounted sound glove from HyperSpace Props on etsy as I like the configurable sounds that I could drop in via push button. Just wanted to hear what other approved DT's experiences have been. Thanks!

I appreciate all the help everyone has given me during the build! While I wait for word from my GML, during the suit up, I had a question about the shin armor. Am I able to cut the flap near the rear bottom and glue it in place? I think it would make things easier for me when suiting up as this is a clam shell style shin.

Thanks @Chaos. Working from home today, so I'll look into those adjustments. -I can confirm on the chest the recessed pill shape is painted flat black. The overhead hallway light with reflected off it at a weird angle. -Good catch with the thighs, I can add a second strap for each today or tomorrow. -I'll need my wife around to help with the abdomen/belt/codpiece adjustment and I'll need to get more snaps for that anyways.

Well...I did a full suit up, timed it to about 15 minutes with the help of my wife. I also submitted photos to my GML. Fingers crossed!

Well...it's been over a year since I started...but I just finished building the helmet today. Added the helmet liner insert and tactical pads to stop bobblehead movement and it fits comfortably with room for fans and power packs! I will do a full suit up tomorrow, January 5th, to get this groups' CDA's consensus before submitting for approval to my GML. Can't wait!

Well, I managed to buff out the excess clear coat yesterday thanks to @Chaos's advice. I ended up having to use the rubbing compound on a sponge drill attachement to knock it down. You would have to get VERY close to it to see any resemblence of what was there. Before After With that done, I was then able to attach most of the face and visor I cut out to the dome. Taking the top part of the face to a garrison members place to finish painting it as it's too cold to use the Tamiya spray cans in my unheated garage. Fits great on my large noggin'. Just need to work on getting the helmet liner installed to prevent bobblehead. Already put the power pack/controller for the tusk lights inside, holding it in place with velcro. Also got all the vinyl stickers on the blaster. This is also coming with to get painted for the scorched barrel end. So close, I can taste it! Hoping to get everything done before our big convention in April!

Hi Matt. I ordered a Jim Tripon undersuit as a two piece set and all the gaskets are included: elbows, knees, shoulders, neck...everything. From what I remember, his suits should be approvable to Level 2.

Picked up the rubbing and polishing compounds over the weekend. Going to attempt the clear coat fix this weekend when i'm officially on vacation. In the mean time, I grabbed some Tamiya Gloss Black airbrush paint for the last part of the face to paint with a fellow garrison member at his place. Another member was kind enough to print out the vinyl E-11D decals and will be shipping them to me. Big thanks to @Chaos for the files. Which leads me to my next question: what paints did any of you use to get the scorched look on your blasters?

Which type of cloth should I use to hand buff it out? I have a sponge drill attachment, but last time I tried buffing it out, I burned the clear coat.

So before we got to freezing temperatures, I tried my last bit of painting the top most face piece, and a section of the main helmet that needed to be sanded and redone because the clear coat formed visible drip marks. I masked off the good areas and just repainted and clear coated the area I needed (ignore the dust on the helmet, it came off after the picture was taken). Is there a way to buff this out, or am I just going to have to sand it down with high grit sand paper again and repaint/clear coat it? Also, while trooping our Thanksgiving Day parade in Downtown Chicago, a fellow garrison member told me he has a full paint booth setup at his home, so we are going to set up time in late December to paint the the face piece the gloss black that it needs. I'm also bringing my 3D printed E-11D blaster to paint the scorched end of it as he is really good with airbrushing. Which brings me to the meat of the update. Been working on the belt to more properly secure the boxes in place. I assume the placement looks good? I just need to secure the left most box, the leather pouch and attach the hidden 2" plastic clip on the other end to make it a functional belt.

Hi Ben, When I was using 2K clear coat, I did the following: -followed the amount of time to shake before, and after activating the can -had a warm, but not too humid day -used a small, portable spray tent with a filter and fan -did 2 light coats about 12 inches away, waiting 15 minutes between them, then did a wet coat (did a 2nd wet coat on areas that didn't look so good) -after waiting 15 minutes from the last wet coat, I moved the parts inside where it was consistently 68 degrees F with low humidity and let it sit for about 48 hours. I did let it sit for a week before doing anything else with it, but it turned out pretty good. Maybe humidity was your issue?