PiotrRasputin

Small-ish update. -I got the snaps installed on the armor, just need to buy the 1" elastic for the cod piece to attach to the posterior armor. -I've also wet sanded the helmet again with 1000 grit sandpaper as I wasn't totally satisfied with the clear coat and slight orange peel look it still had. Will do the painting on the dome this Sunday since the weather looks good. I'm also waiting for a resin re-print of the Front Insert (or top most angular part of the face) as I noticed a defect on a section that didn't come out right. Once that is in my hands, and painted, I'll 2K Clear coat that and the helmet the same day. In the mean time, i've secured the middle section of the face and installed the tubes. So close to getting to wear it!

Well...it's been a minute! I haven't forgotten about you Spec Ops or my Death Trooper build. Just was focused on getting stuff done for DragonCon and now that it is done, here's an update of what's happened since last time. So back in May, I was painting the helmet parts to get the gloss black look. After still getting the orange peel look, my garrison had an armor party in June. I brought my kit and talked to more experienced troopers and they told me straight up to ditch the Rustoleum and either use Duplicolor (which I now have), or Montana Gold. I also have acquired the 2K clear coat. When I wet-sanded it and applied the Duplicolor and 2K, I got myself a spray tent and fan and had a very cool/low humidity day to try my hand at it. There was noticeable improvement, but I didn't give the 2K enough time between coats (only 5 min. as opposed to 15 min.) Since we are in the high 60s/low 70s now in Chicago, I'm going to take another attempt at painting the helmet and other parts before winter. But today was another big step. I met up with my GML and brought everything over for a proper test fit and to get the strapping down. I had already connected the shoulders to the biceps and did the cording for those, so we set the snaps in place for the shoulders to the back plate near the neck. I also practiced walking with my Crowprops shoes, shins and thighs. I can move pretty comfortably in everything. My next bit of homework is attaching the snaps for the kidney armor to the back armor. We think where we held it in place with duct tape for now is a good spot. If consensus agrees, i'll add the snaps for it it. Then the butt armor will be added next,as we were referencing the Jolly Rogers 1942 Build guide, and attach it to the cod piece. Then the belt afterwards. Overall, I asked my GML what he thought, and encouragingly, he said, "You're close to being done." That was such a morale boost. Any feedback is welcome!

Dremels are the way to go. Just be sure you have a diamond cutting wheel for it. A box cutter with carbon blades can be useful for doing slow, light carving as well. Just as important, you need to think safety. When stuff goes flying, you will need eye protection and some gloves that can resist cutting wouldn't hurt. But more importantly, the clothing you wear will protect you from getting burned by the very hot plastic you just trimmed. I would also suggest a respirator with filters that are good for toxic fumes if you can't work outside while cutting.

You could try using a contour gage to press against your armor, then use that to trace the pattern against the bracket. https://www.amazon.com/Feeke-Adjustable-Measurement-Woodworking-Construction/dp/B08GC48QXP/ref=asc_df_B08GC48QXP/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693660084959&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1599112101708622892&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9021571&hvtargid=pla-1559652326350&mcid=bc2828a7af6b324f8adbc6cac0de8d23&gad_source=1&th=1

Congrats sir!

This is really encouraging to see! I'm getting the "orange peel" look on my helmet at the moment too. I just got 800, 1000 and 2000 grit sandpaper at the store yesterday. I'll be wet sanding it on Sunday before attempting another paint job. Great work!

I did use the Appliance enamel to give the outside more strength per your experience. So basically, light coat it with the enamel paint, wait less than 30 minutes, spray again, repeat until glossy? Can I recoat it with the enamel paint at this point to fix this, or would I have to use the primer/filler to coat it all over, and resand it before trying again? Since I sprayed it before the 4th, I'll wait until Sunday before trying again. In the mean time, i'll be getting my snap button kit for the armor by Wednesday, so I'll start connecting the shoulder and biceps together.

So after letting the 2nd coat dry while I was out trooping for May the 4th events, I checked the dome out in the sun today and I'm still seeing the haziness when I initially saw clear, smooth coats after applying it. I'm also noticing specks every so often. Not sure what I'm doing wrong. I'm starting the spray before going over the dome, and hitting it lightly, with multiple passes. As this point, should I just consider priming it white and start over? This is the last part I need to paint before I can truly assemble the helmet.

So I decided to try a 2nd coat of the gloss enamel spray paint on a small area of the main helmet I already sprayed 2 days ago to see if that would help with the haziness, and that seemed to do the trick in terms of making it have that smooth, glossy look. I'm at work right now, so I'll post a picture later tonight.

Happy 501st Day! It's been a long month of sanding the helmet, followed by lining the inside with UV resin to add strength. But I'm pushing forward and was happy enough with the smoothness to give the dome a coat of the gloss black paint yesterday. Checked on it this morning, and while it is very smooth to the touch, it has a hazy look to it. This is the Enamel Gloss Appliance Spray from Rustoleum I used. Not sure why it came out this way. It has been over 60 degrees up here around Chicago the past week with not too bad humidity. In other updates, I attached the "nose grill" and updated the smaller vent grills on the side. And just to change things up, I tried on my Jim Tripon leggings with CrowProp boots to give the shins a walk test around the house. It was a pretty comfortable walk and I didn't fall down. I do think some trimming on the top back area is in the future, but I'm not focusing on that right now. More so want to get the helmet done than anything.

Have you measured the diameter of your forehead? That's one of the more important factors I would be concerned with. Though their site says it fits a 25" circumference forehead. If you are under that size, you should be ok. The other option would be to get MCM's 3D Print files and print/assemble the helmet yourself. It's more time intensive, but these are the best files. I have bought them myself because I am in Club Big Head and am actively filling and sanding my helmet at the moment.

As someone who is also on their Death Trooper journey, welcome to the club! I've seen threads before where some of the best advice is to start off getting the soft goods, then work on the armor. Jim Tripon's undersuit is the way to go. Just be sure you have a helper take good measurements in centimeters. Endor Finders Gloves are also great! These are both part of my build. I can't speak for KeepTrooping, but heard good things. I just recently got my boots from CrowProps because KT only go up to size 12.5 and I wear size 13 US. Good luck!

Small but important update! Got my custom boots in from Crowprops in a day early! They fit perfectly! Now all soft parts are done!

Thanks @Chaos, removing them now. Edit: Done!

Had the day off from work, so I was able to attempt the dome repair. Cleaned up the seams that split slightly with a dremel sander for a straight clean surface and applied CA glue and held it in place for a good minute. Most areas took it well, so I added more on the front and back sides of the seams, wiping them down for a clean fill. Once those held, I reinforced those areas with bondo and am currently letting it cure. 2 part epoxy will be applied after I give the bondo a light sanding on the inside. While that is going on, I also finished up weathering the silver parts thanks to the feedback on the blackwash mix I made. And to the wrap up this update, I cut and put in the wire grill under the side grill pieces with E6000. Will put the weed guard cloth underneath it when the adhesive cures.

While waiting for the CA Glue to arrive, I whipped up a batch of blackwash paint for weathering the silver parts. I just used the Rustoleum Flat Black, sprayed it in a disposable cup, and mixed in a generous amount of water and mixed thoroughly. Gave it a test run on the underside of the side grill as those won't be seen. I applied it lightly with a sponge brush then wiped with a shop rag I had. Thoughts? Definitely cuts down on the metaliacity as @DoggyDoc coined the term.

My garrison helper got back to me and did inform me the seam was held together with CA glue. So I'm actually going to keep the parts that are still attached intact and order what he used from GlueMasters to reconnect the seams after cleaning them up slightly. Then I'll get the 2 part epoxy mix to line the inside of the helmet for additional strength. In the mean time, I'll start the blackwash of the silver parts tonight to give them their weathered look.

Had bit of an accident today. My main dome fell off my workbench and split from most of the seam. This is the filament part my garrison member printed for me. I'm reaching out to him to see what he used to hold the pieces together. Honestly, I am disappointed this happened, but also, kind of glad it happened now and not during a troop. I knew I needed to reinforce the bonds between the parts, this just all more confirms that suspicion. My plan of attack is as follows: 1. Release the last section that is still holding together so I can apply the same steps to all the same areas. 2. Buy some Scotch-Weld PR40 Glue to tack the two pieces together. OR 2a. Use a soldering Iron with a knife tip to heat and weld the two pieces together. 3. Coat the inside with a 2 part epoxy mix to strengthen it. 4. Use bondo or plastic wood filler to refill the seams on the outside. Then sand smooth and coat with the 2 in 1 Rustoleum Primer/Filler. If anyone has any experience with putting 3D printed parts together, any advice would be appreciated.

Sanded the smaller parts of the dome with 600 grit sandpaper after curing a full day. Gave them their respective coats of paint and letting them dry. Thoughts on the Metallic Silver I used?

Back from my Garrison's Formal party, we celebrated our 25th Anniversary this year, and I was the Master of Ceremonies, so yeah...I've been in the bacta tank all weekend. I did manage to stop by the store to pick up some spray paint so here is what I have for the helmet and would like to see what you think. Keep in mind that the helmet is 3D printed with a mix of filament (the main dome, emitter side pieces, 2 bottom layers of the face) and the rest is resin printed. Everything was primed with Rustoleum 2 in 1 Primer Filler. I will sand all the pieces with 600 grit sand paper over the weekend before attempting to paint. Gloss Black - Took @Chaos's suggestion and got the Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy Enamel. The price couldn't be beat as my store had a sale on them for $7.50/can. Flat Black - Found I already had nearly a full can of Rustoleum 2x Flat Black, so YAY to saving some money. Metallic Dark Grey - Still had pretty much a full can of Tamiya TS-40 Metallic Black left over from when I painted my PhoenixProps metal impellers. Will this be an issue, or should I stick with Rustoleum? If so, which color would be closest? Weathered Silver - Another find in my box of spray paints I had, Rustoleum Silver Metallic paint. Wasn't sure if this would fly or not, as all I found reference was Tamiya X-11 Chrome Silver, but I don't have an airbrush. So I'm holding off on these parts till I can get confirmation on the color. Also, since my helmet is from MCM's files, I saw on the back that there are 6 slots on the sides of the middle section and 2 smaller squares that need to be painted flat black. However, these aren't in the files. Am I to assume to just use some spare ABS plastic, paint it the flat black and glue it in place? (I haven't attached the middle section just, just held it in place for reference.)

That is the EXACT scope I bought for mine! Pro tip, don't paint it until you adjust the mounting brackets and secure it to the barrel. Otherwise, the spray-paint may make it difficult to adjust them to stay in the right spot. And if you have a hard time finding the screws, like I did for the Cheesehead slotted handle screws, I ended up using https://belmetric.com/ to not only get those, but the right taps to thread the holes correctly.

Ok, so since I've already used Rustoleum's 2 in 1 Primer/Filler on other parts of the helmet, I'll use it on the resin printed parts so everything on the helmet has the same base primer layer and let that cure. The filament parts I already have I already sprayed with this and have them sanded and set to the side. Which now brings me to my question: the helmet color scheme. Looking for paint brand suggestions for the Flat Black and Weathered Silver areas. I already have the Tamiya Metallica Black TS40, as I used that on my left forearm impellers from PhoenixProps. @Chaos, can the Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy Enamel Spray in Gloss Black you mentioned work on top of the Rustoleum 2 in 1 Primer/Filler after rigorous sanding?

I've been using the Rustoleum 2 in 1 Primer Filler at the moment since that what my garrison member who printed my dome uses on his 3d filament prints. He warned me about the need to constantly sand, spray, and repeat many times to hide the lines. Since the resin prints don't have the lines like filament, should I use the same type of primer on them prior to painting?

Picked up the last two 3D resin pieces on Sunday, the Front Grille and Front Insert. Everything fits perfectly! I also did a quick test of the visor after cutting it out from a dark green safety visor I ordered off Amazon. The garrison members I showed it to said they couldn't see my eyes which is exactly what I needed to hear, as it is required in the CRL. Still need to fill in that vertical line, slightly tightened a visor screw 1 turn too many, but I'll just fill it with Bondo and sand it down. But now that I have all the pieces, I assume it would be best to prime and paint them individually before assembly? What paint would be best to do the priming? Keeping in mind some parts are resin and others other filament.

Replacement boots ordered with Crowprops yesterday. Got the form to submit photos for sizing today sent. Also got my undersuit back from my seamstress friend. She ended up having to take off about 4-5 inches of excess fabric from the calves and now they fit great! The forearms were taken in too a bit. Both now have elastic strapping for easy of pulling them through their respective pieces.