SilentDan[TX] Posted November 14, 2016 Author Share Posted November 14, 2016 Hopefully I'm progressing in the right direction. The cummerbund and pouches are very fiddly.<br /> Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk Link to comment
retrofire[501st] Posted November 14, 2016 Share Posted November 14, 2016 Looking good! You're moving along just fine. You'll want to bring the right pouch over just about to the edge of the bund ribbing and bring those drop boxes up to about 1-1.5 inches from your belt. You are well on your way to approval just need to tighten a few things up. Link to comment
SilentDan[TX] Posted November 15, 2016 Author Share Posted November 15, 2016 I've attached my pouches with Velcro, so I've just repositioned then for the moment. Is this looking any closer? Link to comment
retrofire[501st] Posted November 15, 2016 Share Posted November 15, 2016 Much better. Now bring the top left pouch over equal with the stitching. It's a tad crooked. It's a little easier if you lay your bund flat on a bed or table to adjust them as it's easier to align. That Shadow Scout is looking good! Can't wait to see it all together. Keep up the great work. Link to comment
SilentDan[TX] Posted November 16, 2016 Author Share Posted November 16, 2016 Tried for repositioning. It needs to go through the washing machine to get the chalk that marked the rib lines off. Link to comment
retrofire[501st] Posted November 16, 2016 Share Posted November 16, 2016 Nice! Like the suspenders as well. Thays a good way to go. I don't know about washing it though. I'd be concerned about it bunching. I haven't washed my bund I just air it out after troops. Maybe Chef can help with advice here. Link to comment
SilentDan[TX] Posted December 6, 2016 Author Share Posted December 6, 2016 Opened the visor up a little more. Link to comment
retrofire[501st] Posted December 6, 2016 Share Posted December 6, 2016 That looks good right there and I wouldn't tinker with it much more. What lens did you decide to go with? I've been searching for a mirrored one to replace the dark green one that came in my kit. I think it makes it that much more cooler:) Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Link to comment
SilentDan[TX] Posted December 6, 2016 Author Share Posted December 6, 2016 I'm using the Trooperbay one. It's just a thin mirrored film, so I just need to stick it on to the green lens that came with the kit. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk Link to comment
retrofire[501st] Posted December 6, 2016 Share Posted December 6, 2016 Yeah I got that too but I was a little concerned with adding an extra layer of tint to an already dark lens. I though about evening troops and bonking into things because I couldn't see:) Link to comment
DarkSith87[TX] Posted December 6, 2016 Share Posted December 6, 2016 Looks great i'm also doing a shadow scout myself but will still have my General Weir Shadow Scout too, good luck Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Link to comment
SilentDan[TX] Posted December 7, 2016 Author Share Posted December 7, 2016 The original lens I have does not seem very dark, and the silver film doesn't make things too much worse. The other option would be to get a clear safety face mask shield. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk Link to comment
retrofire[501st] Posted December 7, 2016 Share Posted December 7, 2016 Good point. I was thinking of something like a replacement lens for ski goggles or bmx. That silver reflection really sets the bucket off so dark or not I'm still going to do it:) Link to comment
SilentDan[TX] Posted December 13, 2016 Author Share Posted December 13, 2016 Straight from the manufacturer, putting the tank on the back resulted in a noticeable gap. I've ground the straight line to make more of a curve to match the back. How precise does the tank have to attach? It can be squeezed down closer. Link to comment
retrofire[501st] Posted December 13, 2016 Share Posted December 13, 2016 No worries! That should be fine. You should see the gaps on the scouts in ROTJ😀. Check the CRL as I believe that you'll need two rivets here one on the bottom and another on the top through the tank topper. On my white armor I created a tab out of scrap ABS and inserted it through the back of the armor for the upper rivet to connect to. It made the tank connection much stronger. Once I got the top topper installed I gently pushed down on the tank and drilled through both pieces then inserted the rivet. That tank isn't going anywhere. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Link to comment
SilentDan[TX] Posted December 13, 2016 Author Share Posted December 13, 2016 I checked the CRL, and the shadow scout doesn't mention rivets for basic approval. I initially had to glued on with a significant gap, almost 1cm at the top, but my local garrison thought that was too much. My finger tips hurt for days after pulling it off. Good to know I'm going in the right direction. Link to comment
retrofire[501st] Posted December 14, 2016 Share Posted December 14, 2016 HI Dan. Goodness that had to be miserable as well as painful. I'm sorry you had to do that. You are absolutely right about the tank rivets. It's only if you are going for Specialist that a rivet is required for the tank. Link to comment
SilentDan[TX] Posted December 26, 2016 Author Share Posted December 26, 2016 Finally got around to finishing my bucket. Used a lot of hot melt glue to get the lense in. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk Link to comment
SilentDan[TX] Posted January 12, 2017 Author Share Posted January 12, 2017 I managed to get approved. I'm now TX-64687! Thanks for all the advise! Link to comment
kaabous[TX] Posted April 10, 2017 Share Posted April 10, 2017 Hi Dan, congrats on getting approval! I am just getting my SC build going and I'd be curious to hear any tips you have on assembling the helmet. Link to comment
SilentDan[TX] Posted April 11, 2017 Author Share Posted April 11, 2017 Thanks Kaabous. The helmet wasn't so bad to assemble. I first riveted the visor to the faceplate just to hold it in position. I made small drill holes in the center of the indent just in case I was off, with the bolt position. I then glued the sides and top on, one at a time to get both items in place. The back of the helmet was just glue and magnets. The top lined up nicely to the back. There is a bit of a gap where the back does not perfectly contact the top. The faceplate and the helmet lined up at the hinge position, but the jawline needed to be trimmed to match the helmet. The visor just needed a bit of a hot water bath to soften it, and a lot of hot melt glue to hold it in place. Hope this helps. Link to comment
kaabous[TX] Posted April 12, 2017 Share Posted April 12, 2017 Thanks Dan. Was it the right side (when wearing) jaw line that needed trimming? Mine was about 1/2" longer than the left. Did you move the guide holes for mounting the faceplate? They seem like they are a bit too far forward on mine, but I'm not sure there is room to move them much. I'll definitely use the tip on warming the visor when I get to that step. Link to comment
SilentDan[TX] Posted April 12, 2017 Author Share Posted April 12, 2017 Yes, on my helmet, the right jaw line was the longer side. No, I did not move the guide holes for mounting the faceplate. Everything (aside from the right jaw line) lined up when I tested the fit of the faceplate to the helmet. When in the closed position, there is a gap of approximately 1/4" between the faceplate and the matching contours on the helmet. This allows for the faceplate to open, something that I don't think would be possible if the faceplate mated perfectly to the contours on the helmet. Link to comment
Force Crush[TX] Posted April 17, 2017 Share Posted April 17, 2017 Where did you bought that visor? Link to comment
SilentDan[TX] Posted April 17, 2017 Author Share Posted April 17, 2017 I got the Biker Scout Mirrored Lens Material from Trooperbay. Link to comment
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