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Getting started in the 501st


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Looking good! You're moving along just fine. You'll want to bring the right pouch over just about to the edge of the bund ribbing and bring those drop boxes up to about 1-1.5 inches from your belt. You are well on your way to approval just need to tighten a few things up.

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Much better. Now bring the top left pouch over equal with the stitching. It's a tad crooked. It's a little easier if you lay your bund flat on a bed or table to adjust them as it's easier to align. That Shadow Scout is looking good! Can't wait to see it all together. Keep up the great work.

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  • 3 weeks later...

That looks good right there and I wouldn't tinker with it much more. What lens did you decide to go with? I've been searching for a mirrored one to replace the dark green one that came in my kit. I think it makes it that much more cooler:)

 

 

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The original lens I have does not seem very dark, and the silver film doesn't make things too much worse. The other option would be to get a clear safety face mask shield.

 

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Straight from the manufacturer, putting the tank on the back resulted in a noticeable gap. I've ground the straight line to make more of a curve to match the back. How precise does the tank have to attach? It can be squeezed down closer.

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No worries! That should be fine. You should see the gaps on the scouts in ROTJ😀. Check the CRL as I believe that you'll need two rivets here one on the bottom and another on the top through the tank topper. On my white armor I created a tab out of scrap ABS and inserted it through the back of the armor for the upper rivet to connect to. It made the tank connection much stronger. Once I got the top topper installed I gently pushed down on the tank and drilled through both pieces then inserted the rivet. That tank isn't going anywhere.

 

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I checked the CRL, and the shadow scout doesn't mention rivets for basic approval. I initially had to glued on with a significant gap, almost 1cm at the top, but my local garrison thought that was too much. My finger tips hurt for days after pulling it off. Good to know I'm going in the right direction.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Thanks Kaabous.

The helmet wasn't so bad to assemble.

I first riveted the visor to the faceplate just to hold it in position. I made small drill holes in the center of the indent just in case I was off, with the bolt position. I then glued the sides and top on, one at a time to get both items in place.

The back of the helmet was just glue and magnets. The top lined up nicely to the back. There is a bit of a gap where the back does not perfectly contact the top.

The faceplate and the helmet lined up at the hinge position, but the jawline needed to be trimmed to match the helmet.

The visor just needed a bit of a hot water bath to soften it, and a lot of hot melt glue to hold it in place.

Hope this helps.

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Thanks Dan. Was it the right side (when wearing) jaw line that needed trimming? Mine was about 1/2" longer than the left.

 

Did you move the guide holes for mounting the faceplate? They seem like they are a bit too far forward on mine, but I'm not sure there is room to move them much.

 

I'll definitely use the tip on warming the visor when I get to that step.

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Yes, on my helmet, the right jaw line was the longer side.

 

No, I did not move the guide holes for mounting the faceplate. Everything (aside from the right jaw line) lined up when I tested the fit of the faceplate to the helmet. When in the closed position, there is a gap of approximately 1/4" between the faceplate and the matching contours on the helmet. This allows for the faceplate to open, something that I don't think would be possible if the faceplate mated perfectly to the contours on the helmet.

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